California Dreamin’: New Releases

2014 Ancient Oak Cellars Siebert Ranch Single Vineyard Series Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 400 cases, pH 3.50, TA 0.62. $44. Pommard 4 clone from hillside block 5 planted by Henry Siebert when he was 80-years-old. Mostly native fermentation, aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Welcoming aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and smoky oak. The wine makes a good impression on entry, the mid palate and finish, offering mid weight flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and cola with a supportive riff of toasty oak. Offering good harmony, this wine finishes with length and purpose. Score: 92

2014 Ancient Oak Cellars Alcman Siebert Ranch Reserve Series Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $58. Wine named after Alcman, the earliest of nine great Greek lyric poets known for clarity of tone and rich visual description. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very sensual perfume of dark fruits, rose petal, peppery spices and oak. Impeccably balanced, with plenty of black cherry and black raspberry goodness accented with spice and cola. Sleek in texture and very charming, with enough structure to age. A classy wine. Score: 93

2015 Ancient Oak Cellars Appellation Series Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.69, 900 cases, $29. Produced primarily from Nurmi and Flyway vineyards. Native primary and secondary fermentations, sur lie aging with battonage. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Complex perfume of lemon oil, grilled pineapple, warm brioche, vanilla and chalk dust. Slightly creamy in the mouth, displaying very tasty flavors of lemon, pineapple, pear, and salted caramel. Nicely composed, with a lasting finish redolent of creme caramel. Rather ostentatious oak highlights, but no complaints from me. Score: 89

2015 Ancient Oak Cellars Single Vineyard Series Flyway Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 2.9, TA 0.57, RS <0.1 g/L, 1,500 cases, $56. Old vines. Barrel fermented with native yeasts and sur lie aging with battonage. · Medium golden yellow color in the glass. Shy aromas of citrus, kumquat, petrichor and vegemite. Moderately rich, with flavors of lemon, pineapple, orchard fruits and subtle toast. Slightly creamy and nicely appointed with a lingering finish replete with righteous tangy lemon. A distinctive wine that intrigues and meshes the acidity well. Tasted twice. Score: 89

2015 Ancient Oak Cellars Single Vineyard Series Nurmi Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 2.9, TA 0.57, RS <0.1 g/L, 1,500 cases, $56. Wente clone planted and farmed by Paul and Gail Nurmi. Barrel fermented with native yeast and aged sur lie with battonage. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Shy, but very pleasing aromas of citrus, lychee, brioche and a steely note. The wine is blessed with delicious flavors of lemon, yellow apple and the slightest barrel toast. Excellent vibrancy with juicy lemon goodness returning in waves on the finish. A serious offering that becomes more affectionate in the glass over time. Score: 94

2015 Ancient Oak Cellars Reserve Series Kent Ritchie Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.66, RS <0.1 g/L, 96 cases, $60. Greg La Follette made his first vineyard designated wines twenty years ago from the Kent Ritchie Vineyard. This wine contains grapes from a selection of specific rows. Barrel fermented with native yeast and aged sur lie for 20 months with battonage. · Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Complex nose offering a perfume of crystallized lemon, prickly pear, white flower bouquet, earthy flora and sea breeze. The onslaught of lemon goodness wakes up the palate on entry and expands through the mid palate. Very harmonious, with a pleasingly viscous texture, offering nuances of spice, nutmeg, vanilla wafer, and buttery caramel. A praiseworthy wine that finishes with uncommon richness for a Chardonnay and literally slides off the back of the palate as it exits. Score: 92

2014 Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.54, 2,995 cases, $25. Cellared and bottled by Buena Vista Winery, Santa Rosa and St. Helena. 100% de-stemmed, fermented in small open-top fermenters, and aged for 10 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels, 20% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is dominated by oak, revealing aromas of fresh ground coffee beans and toast. Smooth in the mouth with a mid weight core of black cherry fruit that plays second fiddle to conspicuous oak. The silky tannins and acidity are in favorable balance with the fruit, but the experience is like drinking a cold cup of coffee with cherry flavoring. Score: 82

2014 DeLoach Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.69, TA 0.55, 8,926 cases, $25. Sourced from BCD Vineyard, Becnel Vineyard, Heintz Vineyard and Murray Vineyard.Fermented in wooden open-top vats, hand punch downs, basket pressed, and aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 10% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas arrive over time in the glass revealing notes of Bing cherry, cranberry and oak spice and toast. Light to mid weight in style, with flavors of spiced Bing cherry, cola and tobacco. Satiny mouthfeel, with a bit of shallow impression on the mid palate, finishing with modest length. Easy to drink, but leans a bit too much on oak. Score: 87

2014 DeLoach Vineyards Marin County Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., pH 3.54, TA 0.57227 cases, $45. A blend of two mature vineyards in Marin County, Stubbs and Corda. Fermented in small open-top fermenters and aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. · Light reddish purple color in the glass. Demure aromas of cherry, strawberry and earthy flora arrive slowly in the glass with swirling. More expressive on the palate, yet delicate in weight, with primary flavors of red cherry and red berry. Nicely balanced, with a silken fabric and a very modest finish. Score: 88

2014 DeLoach Vineyards Maboroshi Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.62, 802 cases, $50. Vineyard is situated at 400 to 600 feet elevation in Sebastopol Hills. Clones 667 and 115 planted in Goldridge soil. Fermented in open top vats with hand punch downs. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Both savory and fruity on the nose, exhibiting aromas of cherry, dried herbs, wet mulch and a hint of tobacco. Very charming in the mouth, with expansive flavors of black cherry, savory herbs and tobacco robed in modest tannins. A silky smooth texture attracts, and the wine has commendable harmony, finishing with cherry and citric flavors. Score: 90

2014 DeLoach Vineyards Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.65, 1,350 cases, $70. Very heavy bottle with a gold crest on the front. The 17-acre Estate Vineyard is certified Biodynamic®. One of only 64 wineries or vineyards in the U.S. with Demeter certified Biodynamic estate vineyards. 8 clones - 115, “828,” Swan, La Tache, Calera, Mt. Eden, 777 and 23. Fermented for 16 months in individual lots with native yeasts in open top fermenters, basked pressed and aged on the lees in French oak barrels, 31% new, before being blended together and aged for an additional 2 months. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A regal nose leads off with aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, forest floor, spice and toast. Plush and full-bodied in the mouth with accommodating tannic backbone, offering layers of black raspberry, blackberry and plum fruits accented with spice and dark chocolate. Almost too much of a good thing. Classy, with good acidity lifting the fruit load, finishing uncommonly long and generous. Best to lock this wine away for a few years. Score: 92

2012 JCB No 3 Ed. III Red Wine

13.5% alc., $123. A marriage of five vineyards in California and three top vineyards in Côte de Nuits, Burgundy. Aged 22 months in 100% French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant scent of black cherry, spice, herbs and beechwood. Lighter styled, with earthy flavors of cherry and raspberry, and an array of savory spices and herbs. The savory and fruit components compliment each other and the wine picks up interest over time in the glass. Drinking well now, with easygoing, fine-grain tannins, and a bright, uplifting finish. Score: 90

2013 JCB No 7 Sonoma Collection Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 500 cases, $50. Fermented in wooden open-top fermenters with hand punch downs, basket pressed. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The aromas of black cherry, earthy flora, leather and toasty oak blend together nicely. Tasty flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and blackberry energize the attack and mid palate, persisting on the finish with lip-smacking goodness. A well-crafted wine with married tannins, deft oak integration and overall joy. Score: 91

2013 JCB No 22 Sonoma Collection Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.58, 150 cases, $75. 11 is Jean-Charles Boisset’s lucky number and this wine has twice the intensity of most Pinot Noirs and thus the title of the wine. Fermented in wooden open-top fermenters with hand punch downs, basket pressed, and aged 20 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Gorgeous, nose-filling aromas of dark stone fruits, pie spice, vanilla and subtle toast. Delicious flavors of cherry, raspberry, pie spices and vanilla with a subtle savory note in the background. Bright and seamless, with a sturdy finish of welcome length. A real charmer. Score: 93

2014 JCB No 6 Sonoma Collection Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., $75. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark cherry, strawberry and herb garden become more gracious over time in the glass as do the flavors that echo the nose. Amicable balance, with a silken texture, good vibrancy and a modest finish. Should benefit from another year or two in the cellar. Score: 89

2014 Domaine De La Côte Sta. Rita Hills AVA Pinot Noir

12.5% alc., 3,294 cases, $45. Estate grown, produced and bottled. 50% whole cluster, aged in 0% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Pleasing scent of cherry, raspberry, rose petal, pine needle and underbrush. Very elegant, juicy and refreshing in a mid weight styled wine with uplifting flavors of black cherry and black raspberry framed by silky smooth tannins and supported by the acidity Sta. Rita Hills is known for. Tart cherry returns in waves on the lip-smacking finish. An excellent way to sample the DDLC style with some retail availability. Still solid the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 90

2014 Domaine De La Côte Siren’s Call Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

12.5% alc., 145 cases, $120. Inaugural vintage from this vineyard. Estate grown, produced and bottled. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is remarkably complex, offering aromas of dark cherry, mysterious Asian spices, sous-bois, burnt tobacco and smoke. Light to mid weight in style, with invigorating acidity that forms the first impression. Demure flavors of tart cherry and cranberry with a touch of spice and tobacco. The fine-grain tannins are supportive and make for easy approachability. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the nose was in full flight featuring all the best of whole cluster. The palate had picked up some weight, raspberry fruit arrived, the wine was vivid and vibrant, and the finish left a mouthwatering impression. You can just sense the cool ocean breeze in this wine. Score: 94

2014 Gehricke Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 948 cases, $45. Small lot ferments. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. Vinted and bottled by The Other Guys, Sonoma. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Demure aromas of slightly confected red cherry, baking spice and forest floor. Cherry driven, with added flavors of raspberry and cranberry, simple and easy going in a light to mid weight style, with a silky texture and very modest oak contribution. Score: 87

2014 Gehricke Sonoma Los Carneros Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 1,556 cases, $39. Small lot ferments. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. Vinted and bottled by The Other Guys, Sonoma. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very giving fruit aromas of strawberry and cherry. Discreetly concentrated flavors of oakkissed black cherry with added accents of cola, sassafras and tobacco. Satiny in the mouth, with good balance and some finishing goodness. A little more oak-infused character than I prefer, but will please many especially at this modest price. Score: 88

2014 LUMEN Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 990 cases, $30. Fruit was picked early for freshness and lively acidity @ average 23.5º Brix. Clones 667, 777, Pommard 5 and Wädenswil 2A. 100% de-stemmed. Aged in 15% new and 85% neutral French and Hungarian oak barrels. Bottled unfined and loosely filtered. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. A very savory wine leading off with aromas of black cherry, pice, dried herbs, peppercorn and nutty oak. Light to medium in weight with flavors that replicate the nose with additions of black raspberry and earthiness. The tannins are silky, and there is welcome freshness and juiciness. Score: 89

2014 LUMEN Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 99 cases, $52. A selection of the best barrels from this vineyard this vintage. Harvest Brix 22.7º. Clone 777. 100% destemmed. Aged in 16% new and 84% neutral French and Hungarian oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Earth embossed aromas of blackberry, black raspberry and ollaliberry with complimentary spice. More dark red fruited on the palate with tastes of cherry, cranberry and pomegranate. Lithe and juicy, with a very sensual mouthfeel, sporting matched tannins, a savory thread of thyme and other herbs and some generosity on the finish. Score: 91

2014 LUMEN Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay

13.3% alc., 540 cases, $30. Harvest Brix 22.1º. Robert Young and 15 clones. Barrel fermented and aged in 10% new and 90% neutral French and Hungarian oak. 100% MLF. Sterile filtered. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Aromas of lemon, apple, banana cream, buttery brioche, yeast and a hint of reduction that blows off. Flavors of lemon, pineapple, green apple and spice infused with steely resolve. Slightly creamy on the palate, with a hint of nutty oak, finishing with a bright apple note. The wine improves in the glass over time. Score: 90

2014 Manross Lone Oak Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.69, TA 0.69, 50 cases, $58. 100% Pommard clone. 30% whole cluster. Aged 20 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Exhilarating aromas of fresh Bing cherry, spice, vanillin and nutty oak. Polished and refreshing on the palate, with the mid weight essence of glorious black cherry, cherry cola and black raspberry flavors. Plenty of ripe sap, but vibrant, with a juicy acid underbelly. Lovely balance, with silken tannins and a compliment of oak. Still charged with deep cherry flavor and juiciness when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Uncommon verve in a seductively-appointed Pinot that is welcoming now. Score: 94

2014 O’Connor Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.66, 414 cases, $35. Harvest Brix 25.2º. Pommard, 115 and 777 clones. Aged 18 months in French oak barrels. Winemaker is Ron Johnson, the vineyard owners’ son-in-law. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Soaring aromas of Bing cherry, spice, toast and tobacco lead to a middleweight styled wine with delicious dark cherry fruit. The charge of fruit is buffered by vibrant acidity and silky tannins. There is definite barrel influence, but it seasons rather than dominates the wine. Very enjoyable, with a smooth texture and an exit bursting with savory oak and black cherry goodness. A real charmer and quintessential Russian River Valley in character at a very reasonable price. Score: 93

2014 Davis Bynum Jane’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.56, 10,354 cases, $35. Harvest Brix average 24.9º. Clones 113, 114, 115, 777, 667, 2A, 23 and Pommard. Grapes are de-stemmed to stainless steel tanks for cold soak, followed by fermentation with native yeasts. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 31% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of a plethora of dark fruits including black cherry and black raspberry complimented with toasty oak. Impressive harmony and soothing in the mouth, with middleweight flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and baking spice. Easy to cozy up to, finishing with a kiss of fruit that literally slides off the back of the palate. Score: 91

2014 Davis Bynum Jane’s Vineyard Clone 23 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.55, 192 cases, $55. Clone 23, imported from Wädenswil, Switzerland in 1966, is known as the Mariafeld clone. Harvest Brix 26.3º. Fermentation initiated with native yeasts. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels 36% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely perfume of fresh Bing cherry, spice and rose petal. Gutsy but not ponderous, with a flavorful core of earthy black cherry and mushroom flavors that engage the palate. Lush in the mouth, with deft oak management, a balanced tannic backbone, and a juicy finish filled with black cherry goodness. A grounded Pinot with character. Score: 92

2014 Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.52, $25. Aged 13 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is inviting upon opening, offering aromas of Bing cherry, baking spices, and cola, but fades over time in the glass. The light to mid weight charge of Bing cherry fruit offers a modest attack and shallow mid palate depth, but finishes better than it enters with good length. The barrel treatment is conspicuous but not overbearing. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and recorked bottle, the oak was not more judiciously integrated, but the wine proved to be a good companion with food. Score: 88

2014 Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.66, TA 0.55, $30. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is reserved initially, but opening over time in the glass, offering aromas and flavors of forestry cherry, dark red berry, spice and earthy flora. Silken in the mouth, with good lift, taught tannins, and a spirited finish featuring persistent cherry goodness. Score: 89

2014 Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.77, TA 0.52, $45. Aged on the lees for 11 months with monthly battonage in French oak barrels, 36% new. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is sullen, offering only subtle aromas of black cherry, earth and oak. Somewhat monolithic on the mid weight plus palate with flavors of ripe black cherry, black raspberry and tobacco. The tannins are quite modest assisting the silky mouthfeel that is the wine’s best feature. The wine lacks a bit of acidic lift. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, oak had come to the forefront, but the seductive texture still stood out. It was challenging for me to predict the future of this wine based on its current withdrawn state. Score: 89-91

2013 Sanglier Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.55, 416 cases, $45. Pommard, Calera, Swan and 115 clones. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 30% new, 70% 1 and 2-year-old. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose really blossoms over time, attracting the drinker to bright aromas of cherry, red berry, woodland and sous-bois. A cherry bombast featuring a mid weight core of perfectly ripened Bing cherry that is expansive in the mouth and carries over with purpose through the finish. Easy going, with silky tannins, juicy acidity and solid balance. Still delightful the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 90

2014 Sanglier River Tusque Sonoma County Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.57, 224 cases, $36. “Tusque” translates to “the old lands” in French. Clones are Swan, Calera, 115 and 667. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 25% new, 75% 1 and 2-year-old. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black raspberry and grape must are accented with a hint of underbrush. The black raspberry, blackberry and black grape fruits veer to the ripe side but never cross over. Modest in weight, but blessed with vibrant fruit flavor that grabs hold to the very long, dark berry infused follow through. The balance is impeccable. Score: 91

2014 Sanglier Old Camp Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.59, 220 cases, $55. Sourced from Old Camp Vineyard. Aged 19 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. There is a intra berry fermentation scent in this wine with notes of rose petal, tutti-fruity and pine sap accompanying the dark cherry fruit. Plenty of sweet dark cherry and berry fruit to satisfy in a somewhat husky wine with sinewy tannins. A bit of spice, vanilla and Juicy Fruit gum flavors add interest. The finish is remarkably intense and persistent, lasting well over 30 seconds, and the longest of the 2014 Pinots tasted from Sanglier. The Beaujolais character and lengthy finish define this wine. Score: 92

2014 Sanglier Emilia’s Cuvée Family Reserve Bennet Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.60, 155 cases, $60. Calera and Swan clones grown at Laguna Vineyard. Aged 19 months in French oak barrels, 40% new, 60% 1 and 2-year-old. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers its charms slowly over time in the glass, reaching a climax filled with dark cherry, berry, rose petal and nutty oak aromas. A little more oak and structure in this high collared wine, filled with succulent boysenberry and blackberry fruit flavors that saturate the palate. Prodigious, yet not jammy, with a pleasing acid backbone and a good grip of juicy fruit on the ostentatious finish. A superb wine that is delicious now, but will benefit from short term aging. Score: 94

2013 Furthermore Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., pH 3.60, 151 cases, $55. Harvest Brix 28.0º. Pisoni and “828” clones. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very savory nose featuring aromas of earthy flora, tobacco, mushroom, black cherry, strawberry and vanilla. Silky on entry, with mid weight flavors of plum, black cherry, black raspberry, mocha, herbs and spice. Elegantly composed with a generous dollop of oak and some dry tannin on the finish. Score: 89

2013 Soliste Solitaire Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 52 cases and 78 magnums, $100. From a vineyard nestled in a redwood forest. Multiple passes through the vineyard selecting only the very best grapes. 50% whole cluster fermentation. Aged in one 600-liter barrel for 28 months. The model for this wine is the Bertheau Bonnes Mares. · Light cherry red color in the glass. A very young wine that needs decanting or more time in the cellar to evolve. Over time in the glass, lovely aromas of darker cherry and berry, rose petal, sous-bois and spice arrive with a gentle blanket of oak. More expression, yet reticent, on the palate, with a mid weight core of juicy black cherry fruit, spice and savory herbs that commands attention on the mid palate and persists through a pleasingly satin finish. Much better the following day when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. No hurry to pop the cork on this one, much like a Bonnes Mares. Let the oak integrate further, the nuances rise up and the whole cluster work its magic. Score: 92-94

2016 Waxwing Blair Vineyard Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir Rosé

12.7% alc., 42 cases, $23. Release March 2017. Pommard 4 clone. Whole cluster pressed, fermented in stainless steel. Aged in barrels with weekly lees stirring. Bottled January 27, 2017, after 3 months in barrel. · Delicate apricot color in the glass. This is a people-pleasing wine with many admirable attributes. The nose is alive and sustained in the glass, offering aromas of apricot, strawberry, cherry, blood orange and a floral note. The delicious flavors of cherry, strawberry white peach and apricot have good weight and are bright and lifted. The wine is perfectly balanced with fresh acidity, finishing with a blood orange tang. The best domestic rosé that I have experienced in quite awhile. Serve chilled of course. Score: 93