Australian Wine Dinner & Tasting
On May 24, 2007, the Crew gathered at The Pacific Club of Newport Beach to sample Australian wines
and Australian-themed cuisine. Master Sommelier, Rene Chazottes, planned the menu and I provided
the wines. The Chef de Cuisine was David Martin. All of the wines were pre-poured in appropriate
stemware (the Savaterre wines were decanted 8 hours in advance (per suggestion of Keppel Smith).
None of the 15 attendees had drank Australian Pinot Noir except Rene and myself. The menu and
wines are listed on the menu below. Photos of the event are on page 10.
Amuse Bouche, Chef’s Choice
The Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz South East Australia
Australian Yabbies a la Nage
2004 Bindi Composition Macedon Ridges, Victoria Chardonnay
2004 Kooyong Clonale Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Chardonnay
2005 Savaterre Beechworth, Victoria Chardonnay
Rabbit in a Mustard Sauce, Fava Beans
2003 Bindi Original Vineyard Macedon Ridges, Victoria Pinot Noir
2004 Bindi Composition Macedon Ridges, Victoria Pinot Noir
2003 Moondara Conception Gippsland, Victoria Pinot Noir
2004 Yabby Lake Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Pinot Noir
2003 Eldridge Estate Clone MV6, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Pinot Noir
Kangaroo, Black Current Reduction, Seasonal Vegetables
2003 Kooyong Haven Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Pinot Noir
2003 Kooyong Ferrous Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Pinot Noir
2003 Kooyong Meres Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Pinot Noir
2005 Savaterre Beechworth, Victoria Pinot Noir
Almond Fig Tart
Yalumba Museum Reserve South East Australia Muscat
A note about Sparkling Shiraz and Muscat before discussing the other wines.
Articles in the wine press in recent years have brought attention in the United States to Australia’s
unique Sparkling Shiraz. Treasured and very popular in Australia, this sparkling wine is made in the
same manner as French Champagne (methode champenoise), and is a perfect foil for Thanksgiving
dinner or a summer barbecue.
A Frenchman, working in Adelaide in the late 1880s, made the first commercial sparkling wine from
Shiraz. The name “Sparkling Burgundy” took hold and this bold wine with a deep red color and rich
flavor became very trendy in Australia. Interest waned in the 1960s when that god-awful Cold Duck,
which was cheaper and sweeter, caught the fancy of the Aussies. Winemaker Warren Randall and Ian
McKenzie of Seppelt Winery revived Sparkling Shiraz in 1982.
Vintage Sparkling Shiraz is usually aged for five to ten years before it is released. Most examples are
dry, but versions with some residual sugar are produced and are best drunk with sweeter foods like
desert. There are over 60 Australian wineries producing Sparkling Shiraz today and more and more of
it is being exported to the United States.
My friend, Aussie David Glass, describes a favorite Sparkling Shiraz of his (Paringa) as “a bloody
masterpiece of spicy fruit and dusty earthiness… .it is truly a ripper.” He advises drinking it with
Thanksgiving turkey, recommending that one “stick a couple of bottles on
ice… .pure magic mate!”
The Black Chook (“chook” is Aussie for chicken) is priced at $13 and has 13.5%
alc.. The sparkler was well-received and one attendee actually named it the best
wine of the night! It is a non-vintage sparkling wine composed primarily of
three-year aged Shiraz with a touch of younger Shiraz. The producers are winemaker
Ben Riggs and proprietor Tony Park, both of Penny’s Hill Winery. It is an
unusual experience for the uninitiated, for the wine is surprisingly full-bodied
and rich with copious spicy fruit.
The fortified Muscats and Tokays of Australia are part of the country’s wine heritage. They are very
sweet, dark, deep and “sticky.” The Muscat grapes of northern Victoria are harvested after they
shrivel on the vine. No or very little fermentation is halted with the addition of pure neutral grape
spirit, and the wine then ages for 1 to 100 years in very warm warehouses. The Museum release from
Yalumba, Australia’s oldest family-owned winery, is a rare, reserve type release. Both older and
younger wines are blended to produce a consistent style. Many fine examples of fortified wines that
are exported to the United States are ridiculously cheap considering the quality (The Yalumba Muscat
Museum Reserve served here was $14 for 375 ml., 18% alc.). This Muscat is really a desert in itself.
We did not score the wines as is my preference, but the tasters picked their favorites. I suggested to
those who were score-bound that they use the following Aussie system which employs the words the
Australians use for great praise:
86 = a bottler
88 = a cracker
90 = a ripper
92 = a humdinger
94 = a corker
96 = a balltearer
The Bindi and Kooyong Chardonnays were fine examples of the “Burgundian” style with bright minerality
and wet stone accents leading the way. The Savaterre had more up front sweet fruit and butter
notes with appealing oak highlights and was closer to many California-styled Chardonnays. All three
were excellent and the group was split as to their favorites. The yabbies (an Australian shellfish similar
to a crawfish) were a perfect match.
For many tasters used to the bold fruity Caliesque Pinot Noirs, several wines were too austere (lacking
Pinot extract or sappiness) and acidic (the word “sour” was bantered). I needed to remind them that
Pinot Noir SHOULD have good acid - that is what makes it such a superb food companion. The clear
favorites were: 2003 Eldridge Estate Single Clone MV6 Pinot Noir, 2004 Yabby Lake Pinot Noir,
and 2003 Kooyong Meres Pinot Noir. My notes are as follows:
2005 Savaterre Pinot Noir
The nose is shy, even after decanting. Hi-tone cherry and rhubarb flavors
are buttressed by a healthy tannic structure. Better with food than alone at this stage. A Lolita.
2004 Bindi Composition Pinot Noir
A pure and supple wine with well-extracted cherry,
raspberry and floral flavors enhanced by vanillin oak. Excellent food wine.
2004 Yabby Lake Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $50.
This is berry jam on toast but with plenty of sophistication.
Dark fruit driven, it is Nicely balanced and composed.
2003 Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir
The darkest-colored wine in the lineup. A big wine with
big fruit, big tannins and plenty of acidity. The nose is closed and the core of dark fruits is brooding.
2003 Kooyong Haven Pinot Noir
A red fruit panoply with nice weight and polish. The lively
acidity and silky tannins lead to a clean and refreshing finish.
2003 Kooyong Meres Pinot Noir
The lightest-colored and most approachable of the Kooyong
triad. Very charming from start to finish with bright cherry aromas and flavors, spice and everything
nice. The lingering finish of spiced cherries makes your knees weak.
2003 Moondarra Conception Pinot Noir
A bigger-styled Pinot Noir with tart black cherry
and mineral flavors leading to a mouth-coating and extended finish. Lively acidity.