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New Zealand Pinot Noirs from Salmanazar

Salmanazar, located in Wanaka, New Zealand, is an export collective bringing wine from an elite group of New Zealand producers to Europe and North America. Wines with recognized third party organizations are featured, such as Bio Gro, www.biogro.co.nz, and Demeter, www.biodynamic.org.nz. Wines are also sought out that are vinified without manipulations or additions such as commercial yeast, and are exposed to minimal use of sulphur as a preservative.

I recently reviewed a number of interesting Pinot Noirs from this exporter. The wines were from both the North Island (Martinborough) and South Island (North Canterbury, Waitaki Valley, and Central Otago).

Central Otago

This is the world’s most southern wine region. Wine grapes were first planted here in the 1860s with interest renewed in the 1970s. There are 4,717 acres planted to wine grapes, making it New Zealand’s fourth largest grape producing region, about 2.4% of total production. Pinot Noir is the focus, but Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer do well here in the cool climate and schist and glacial loam soils. Central Otago is New Zealand’s highest winegrowing region and its only continental climate featuring short, hot summers and long, dry autumns.

2010 Archangel Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. An organically farmed estate on elevated schist gravel terraces near Wanaka. Highly mineral-rich soils lead to rich, lush wines. · Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. A bold, opulent, ripe style of fruit-driven wine with aromas and flavors of cassis, black cherry, boysenberry, toast and tobacco. Soft and almost creamy with some tannic support. Not much terroir to be found in this wine, but the flavors are very satisfying and it is well-crafted in this style. Score: 89

2011 Pisa Range Estate Run 245 Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrel Wines, San Francisco, CA. These wines are organically farmed in the Pisa sub region of Central Otago and vinified by acclaimed winemaker Rudi Bauer. Run 245 is the pastural tenure number given to this land at Pisa in 1866. This vineyard was established in 1995. Aged 12 months in French oak. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Very charming nose immediately with scents of cherry pie, spice, and sandalwood. The cherry and cranberry fruit really sings on the palate but is somewhat sequestered by and exuberant oak overlay. Lively and crisp, with pretty fruit, ending with some finishing intensity and a tug of tobacco oak. Score: 89

2012 Pisa Range Estate Black Poplar Block Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. Aged 12 months in French oak. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, spice and wine cave lead to deep flavors of cherry, cranberry and strawberry that coat the palate with goodness. A sophisticated offering with integrated tannins and an intensely fruity finish. More concentrated, with less oak sheen, than the 2011 Pisa Range wine reviewed today. Very seductive and user-friendly. Score: 92

2010 TOSQ Vineyards Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. Family owned and tended organic vineyard in the Pisa district of Central Otago. Second release. · Moderate ruby color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, boysenberry, forest floor and rose petal lead to a full-flavored attack of black cherry and plum fruits. The finish is very generous and expansive, but is marked by oak and plenty of astringent tannins. The initial impression with this wine is very favorable, but it looses appeal over time in the glass, becoming rather linear and tannic. Score: 87

2011 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., screwcap. Grant Taylor and Tim Valli carry on the tradition of Giuseppe Valli who emigrated from a winemaking background to New Zealand in the 1870s. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Uplifting aromas of black cherry, dark red berry, sous-bois and complimentary oak. Delicious attack of fresh dark fraise de bois, boysenberry and cranberry fruits with perfect oak seasoning. Beautifully balanced, silky and seductive, with a peacock tail finish replete with gorgeous red berry and cherry fruit that really attracts attention. Clearly the star of this New Zealand Pinot Noir tasting and one to search out. Score: 94



Waitaki Valley

Waitaki Valley is New Zealand’s coldest wine region with north facing limestone and alluvial Greywacke and schist hillsides. It is also New Zealand’s newest wine region straddling the boundary between North Otago and Canterbury provinces in a valley close to the Pacific Coast in the south of the South Island. The area was first planted in 2001, and most vineyards are small. The climate is maritime at the lower reaches, becoming semi-continental and more arid further inland. With warm summers and long, usually dry, autumn seasons, there is long, slow fruit ripening.

2009 Ostler Caroline’s Waitaki Valley New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very ripe fruit aromas on the nose with a heavy dose of smoke and ash. A rustic, savory wine with smoky, herbal oak overshadowing the very ripe core of berry, plum and purple grape fruits. Seems like an atypical bottle. Score: NR

2010 Ostler Carolina’s Waitaki Valley New Zealand Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. From the leading estate in Waitaki Valley. Vineyard is planted in limestone-laden, seabed soils. · Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. Enticing array of black fruits on the nose with a mild oak sheen. Highly enjoyable core of freshly ripened purple and black berries clothed in sinewy tannins. Softly textured with a generous, fruit-driven finish of some appealing length. Score: 89

2011 Ostler Caroline’s Waitaki Valley New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. A lighter, more elegant wine that I find appealing, although the phenolics seem to lack a little ripeness and the finish is a bit shallow. Very juicy and thirst quenching, with aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry, and sandalwood, and very modest tannins. Highly approachable and easy to like, but not special. Score: 87



Waipara Valley North Canterbury

This region is known for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling grown on the limestone and clay hillsides of this small region. The climate is favorable for cool climate viticulture. There are about 80 producers in the region, with most focusing on small lot wine production.

2011 Black Estate Waipara Valley North Canterbury New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. A biodynamic, family owned vineyard planted on north facing clay and limestone slopes. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens with some struck match reduction that resolves somewhat over time in the glass to reveal aromas of black cherry, briar and seasoned oak. Light to mid weight flavors of juicy strawberry and cherry with a touch of spice and green savory herbs. Good tension, with firm tannins showing up on the finish. Score: 87

2011 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Earth Smoke Canterbury New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Pyramid Valley Vineyards, USA, LLC, Pescadero, CA. This wine comes from the home vineyard of Mike and Claudia Weersing’s estate vineyard that is farmed organically and biodynamically. Densely planted vines are established on clay and limestone soils. No commercial yeasts, bacteria, enzymes, fining or filtering. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Intriguing aromas of wild raspberry, sous-bois, cherry pie glaze, fennel, oak and floral bouquet. Very tasty essence of fresh raspberry and strawberry coulis with good attack and finishing presence. Well-crafted, with supple tannins, bright acidity and textural interest. Score: 91

2011 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Angel Flower Canterbury New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Pyramid Valley Vineyards, USA, LLC, Pescadero, CA. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Noticeable steely minerality on the nose complimented the aromas of dark red fruits. Welcoming mid weight flavors of dark red berries, plums and cherries with a loamy, herbal undertone. The modest tannins are quite soft, and the juicy acidity gives the wine a pleasingly refreshing tension. Overall, a notable wine with impressive balance and terroir-based presence. Score: 90


Martinborough

Martinborough is one of three main sub regions (Gladstone and Masterton are the other two) in Wairarapa (easily confused with Waipara). Wine grape plantings are situated on an elevated terrace composed of relatively young river sediments, with varying amounts of sand and silt. Water draining from the surrounding limestone hills is thought to contribute to the Martinborough style. There are many iconic, pioneering producers of Pinot Noir in this small region. Wairarapa’s modern wine history dates to the late 1970s plantings of Dry River, Martinborough Vineyard, Ata Rangi and Chifney (now Margrain). Production is relatively small, amounting to only 1% of New Zealand’s total production.

2012 Alana Estate Lumiere Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. An established estate planted in 1993 in the heart of the Martinborough Terrace Appellation. The vineyard is organically farmed. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of cherry, raspberry, baking spice and oak. Juicy and bright, with a middleweight core of oak-kissed black cherry fruit. Undertones of spice, herbs and smoke add complexity. Finishes with plenty of sweet cherry and a tug of oak. Even less appealing the following day from a previously opened bottle. Score: 86

2009 Cambridge Road Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.65, 600 cases. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. A small vineyard on the Martinborough Terrace first planted in 1986 to Pinot Noir and Syrah. The vineyard is farmed biodynamically. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very appealing aromatically with scents of wild cherry, rose petal, baking spice, vanilla and sandalwood. Discreetly concentrated core of flavorful black raspberry and black cherry fruits slightly shadowed by oak. The wine has good verve and brightness. A solid, but not inspirational wine. Score: 89

2010 Cambridge Road Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.76, 300 cases. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. · Deep, dark reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is not typical for Pinot Noir, with aromas of dark, cooked fruits, black licorice and oak. Relatively big and bold, with blackberry, black currant and raisin flavors that push the ripeness to the edge. The higher alcohol produces a softness in the mouth, but overall the wine is a rugged, ribald, roasted fruit bomb. Unchanged the following day when retasted from an opened bottle. Could this wine have been harmed by heat in transit? Score: NR

2008 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $95. Imported by R.O. Imports, LLC, Napa, CA. Stylish long neck bottle. Tasted twice previously in November 2020 (score 94) and September 2013 (score 92). This bottle was not as appealing. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Exotic, lovely nose with aromas of very ripe black fruits, raisin, and black currant with notes of maple syrup, spice, vanilla and violet. Intense and opulent on the palate with an array of purple and black fruits including ollaliberry and black cherry. Soft, smooth, even slightly viscous, showing some secondary characters of leather and cigar box. The tannins have melded and there is touch of citrus in the background. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the flavors of sweet, very ripe black cherry and tobacco stood out. An interesting wine that should continue to satisfy for several years. Score: 90


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