New Zealand Pinot Noirs from Salmanazar
Salmanazar, located in Wanaka, New Zealand, is an export collective bringing wine from an elite group of New
Zealand producers to Europe and North America. Wines with recognized third party organizations are
featured, such as Bio Gro, www.biogro.co.nz, and Demeter, www.biodynamic.org.nz. Wines are also sought
out that are vinified without manipulations or additions such as commercial yeast, and are exposed to minimal
use of sulphur as a preservative.
I recently reviewed a number of interesting Pinot Noirs from this exporter. The wines were from both the North
Island (Martinborough) and South Island (North Canterbury, Waitaki Valley, and Central Otago).
Central Otago
This is the world’s most southern wine region. Wine grapes were first planted here in the 1860s with interest
renewed in the 1970s. There are 4,717 acres planted to wine grapes, making it New Zealand’s fourth largest
grape producing region, about 2.4% of total production. Pinot Noir is the focus, but Riesling, Pinot Gris and
Gewürztraminer do well here in the cool climate and schist and glacial loam soils. Central Otago is New
Zealand’s highest winegrowing region and its only continental climate featuring short, hot summers and long,
dry autumns.
2010 Archangel Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines,
San Francisco, CA. An organically farmed estate on elevated schist gravel terraces near Wanaka. Highly
mineral-rich soils lead to rich, lush wines.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. A bold, opulent,
ripe style of fruit-driven wine with aromas and flavors of cassis, black cherry, boysenberry, toast and tobacco.
Soft and almost creamy with some tannic support. Not much terroir to be found in this wine, but the flavors are
very satisfying and it is well-crafted in this style.
Score: 89
2011 Pisa Range Estate Run 245 Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported
by Terrel Wines, San Francisco, CA. These wines are organically farmed in the Pisa sub region of Central
Otago and vinified by acclaimed winemaker Rudi Bauer. Run 245 is the pastural tenure number given to this
land at Pisa in 1866. This vineyard was established in 1995. Aged 12 months in French oak.
·
Moderately light
garnet color in the glass. Very charming nose immediately with scents of cherry pie, spice, and sandalwood.
The cherry and cranberry fruit really sings on the palate but is somewhat sequestered by and exuberant oak
overlay. Lively and crisp, with pretty fruit, ending with some finishing intensity and a tug of tobacco oak.
Score: 89
2012 Pisa Range Estate Black Poplar Block Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines,
San Francisco, CA. Aged 12 months in French oak.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. Aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, spice
and wine cave lead to deep flavors of cherry, cranberry and strawberry
that coat the palate with goodness. A sophisticated offering with
integrated tannins and an intensely fruity finish. More concentrated, with
less oak sheen, than the 2011 Pisa Range wine reviewed today. Very
seductive and user-friendly.
Score: 92
2010 TOSQ Vineyards Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell
Wines, San Francisco, CA. Family owned and tended organic vineyard in the Pisa district of Central Otago.
Second release.
·
Moderate ruby color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, boysenberry, forest floor and rose petal
lead to a full-flavored attack of black cherry and plum fruits. The finish is very generous and expansive, but is
marked by oak and plenty of astringent tannins. The initial impression with this wine is very favorable, but it
looses appeal over time in the glass, becoming rather linear and tannic.
Score: 87
2011 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Central Otago New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., screwcap. Grant Taylor and Tim Valli
carry on the tradition of Giuseppe Valli who emigrated from a
winemaking background to New Zealand in the 1870s.
Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. Uplifting aromas of black
cherry, dark red berry, sous-bois and complimentary oak.
Delicious attack of fresh dark fraise de bois, boysenberry and cranberry
fruits with perfect oak seasoning. Beautifully balanced, silky and
seductive, with a peacock tail finish replete with gorgeous red berry and
cherry fruit that really attracts attention. Clearly the star of this New
Zealand Pinot Noir tasting and one to search out.
Score: 94
Waitaki Valley
Waitaki Valley is New Zealand’s coldest wine region with north facing limestone and alluvial Greywacke and
schist hillsides. It is also New Zealand’s newest wine region straddling the boundary between North Otago and
Canterbury provinces in a valley close to the Pacific Coast in the south of the South Island. The area was first
planted in 2001, and most vineyards are small. The climate is maritime at the lower reaches, becoming semi-continental
and more arid further inland. With warm summers and long, usually dry, autumn seasons, there is
long, slow fruit ripening.
2009 Ostler Caroline’s Waitaki Valley New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell
Wines, San Francisco, CA.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very ripe fruit aromas on the nose with
a heavy dose of smoke and ash. A rustic, savory wine with smoky, herbal oak overshadowing the very ripe core
of berry, plum and purple grape fruits. Seems like an atypical bottle.
Score: NR
2010 Ostler Carolina’s Waitaki Valley New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5%
alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. From the
leading estate in Waitaki Valley. Vineyard is planted in limestone-laden,
seabed soils.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple hue in the glass. Enticing
array of black fruits on the nose with a mild oak sheen. Highly enjoyable
core of freshly ripened purple and black berries clothed in sinewy
tannins. Softly textured with a generous, fruit-driven finish of some
appealing length.
Score: 89
2011 Ostler Caroline’s Waitaki Valley New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell
Wines, San Francisco, CA.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. A lighter, more elegant wine that I find
appealing, although the phenolics seem to lack a little ripeness and the finish is a bit shallow. Very juicy and
thirst quenching, with aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry, and sandalwood, and very modest tannins.
Highly approachable and easy to like, but not special.
Score: 87
Waipara Valley North Canterbury
This region is known for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling grown on the limestone and clay hillsides of this
small region. The climate is favorable for cool climate viticulture. There are about 80 producers in the region,
with most focusing on small lot wine production.
2011 Black Estate Waipara Valley North Canterbury New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap.
Imported by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. A biodynamic, family owned vineyard planted on north facing
clay and limestone slopes.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens with some struck
match reduction that resolves somewhat over time in the glass to reveal aromas of black cherry, briar and
seasoned oak. Light to mid weight flavors of juicy strawberry and cherry with a touch of spice and green
savory herbs. Good tension, with firm tannins showing up on the finish.
Score: 87
2011 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Earth Smoke Canterbury New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap. Imported by Pyramid Valley
Vineyards, USA, LLC, Pescadero, CA. This wine comes from the home
vineyard of Mike and Claudia Weersing’s estate vineyard that is farmed
organically and biodynamically. Densely planted vines are established
on clay and limestone soils. No commercial yeasts, bacteria, enzymes,
fining or filtering.
·
Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Intriguing
aromas of wild raspberry, sous-bois, cherry pie glaze, fennel, oak and
floral bouquet. Very tasty essence of fresh raspberry and strawberry
coulis with good attack and finishing presence. Well-crafted, with supple
tannins, bright acidity and textural interest.
Score: 91
2011 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Angel Flower Canterbury New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., screwcap.
Imported by Pyramid Valley Vineyards, USA, LLC, Pescadero, CA.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Noticeable steely minerality on the nose complimented the aromas of dark red fruits. Welcoming mid
weight flavors of dark red berries, plums and cherries with a loamy, herbal undertone. The modest tannins are
quite soft, and the juicy acidity gives the wine a pleasingly refreshing tension. Overall, a notable wine with
impressive balance and terroir-based presence.
Score: 90
Martinborough
Martinborough is one of three main sub regions (Gladstone and Masterton are the other two) in Wairarapa
(easily confused with Waipara). Wine grape plantings are situated on an elevated terrace composed of
relatively young river sediments, with varying amounts of sand and silt. Water draining from the surrounding
limestone hills is thought to contribute to the Martinborough style. There are many iconic, pioneering producers
of Pinot Noir in this small region. Wairarapa’s modern wine history dates to the late 1970s plantings of Dry
River, Martinborough Vineyard, Ata Rangi and Chifney (now Margrain). Production is relatively small, amounting to only 1%
of New Zealand’s total production.
2012 Alana Estate Lumiere Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., screwcap. Imported by Terrell
Wines, San Francisco, CA. An established estate planted in 1993 in the heart of the Martinborough Terrace
Appellation. The vineyard is organically farmed.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasant
aromas of cherry, raspberry, baking spice and oak. Juicy and bright, with a middleweight core of oak-kissed
black cherry fruit. Undertones of spice, herbs and smoke add complexity. Finishes with plenty of sweet cherry
and a tug of oak. Even less appealing the following day from a previously opened bottle.
Score: 86
2009 Cambridge Road Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.65, 600 cases. Imported
by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA. A small vineyard on the Martinborough Terrace first planted in 1986 to
Pinot Noir and Syrah. The vineyard is farmed biodynamically.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Very appealing aromatically with scents of wild cherry, rose petal, baking spice, vanilla and sandalwood.
Discreetly concentrated core of flavorful black raspberry and black cherry fruits slightly shadowed by oak. The
wine has good verve and brightness. A solid, but not inspirational wine.
Score: 89
2010 Cambridge Road Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.76, 300 cases. Imported
by Terrell Wines, San Francisco, CA.
·
Deep, dark reddish purple hue in the glass. The nose is not typical for
Pinot Noir, with aromas of dark, cooked fruits, black licorice and oak. Relatively big and bold, with blackberry,
black currant and raisin flavors that push the ripeness to the edge. The higher alcohol produces a softness in
the mouth, but overall the wine is a rugged, ribald, roasted fruit bomb. Unchanged the following day when retasted
from an opened bottle. Could this wine have been harmed by heat in transit?
Score: NR
2008 Dry River Martinborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
13.5% alc.,
$95. Imported by R.O. Imports, LLC, Napa, CA. Stylish long neck bottle.
Tasted twice previously in November 2020 (score 94) and September
2013 (score 92). This bottle was not as appealing.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. Exotic, lovely nose with aromas of very
ripe black fruits, raisin, and black currant with notes of maple syrup,
spice, vanilla and violet. Intense and opulent on the palate with an array
of purple and black fruits including ollaliberry and black cherry. Soft,
smooth, even slightly viscous, showing some secondary characters of
leather and cigar box. The tannins have melded and there is touch of
citrus in the background. When tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle, the flavors of sweet, very ripe
black cherry and tobacco stood out. An interesting wine that should
continue to satisfy for several years.
Score: 90
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