Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards Part II

“Like people, certain places simply imbue inherent rock star quality.”
Kathleen Wilcox

This issue is Part II or second of a three-part article devoted to what I consider Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards.

As domestic Pinot Noir has enjoyed a surge in popularity over the last three decades and the consumer has become more knowledgeable, there has been an increasing emphasis on vineyard sources. Unlike Burgundy, where vineyards receive top billing on wine labels, in California the producer receives preeminence on wine labels. With that in mind, I have provided detailed information on each Elite California Pinot Noir vineyard.

My listing of California Pinot Noir vineyards as “Elite” is based on twenty years of my reviews from every notable Pinot Noir vineyard in California. This compilation is meant to serve as a valuable resource for Pinot Noir enthusiasts and as a reliable guide for Pinot Noir purchases.

I have chosen the word “Elite” to signify the finest or the best of their kind. I would leave the Grand Cru designation to the French because their classification is based on primarily geological and climatic conditions while my classification is based on the quality of wines consistently produced by a special vineyard.

It is surprising that the popular wine literature is filled with information on grape varieties, wines, winemakers and wineries, but comparatively little detail about vineyards.

Outline of Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards: Part II North Coast

Part II: North Coast

Russian River Valley

Allen Vineyard

Arrendell Vineyard

Dehlinger Estate Vineyard

Dutton Ranch Jentoft Vineyard

Olivet Lane Vineyard

Porter Creek Vineyard

Quail Hill Vineyard

Ritchie Vineyard

Rochioli Vineyard

Soul Patch Vineyard Trenton Estate Vineyard

Other North Coast Appellations

Devil’s Gulch Vineyard (Marin County)

Donum Ranch Vineyard (Carneros)

Grace Benoist Ranch Vineyard (Carneros)

Hanzell Estate Vineyard (Sonoma Valley)

Haynes Vineyard (Coombsville)

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Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards Part II: North Coast - Russian River Valley

My only concern is that without defining an agreeable classification for California, we will see things like “California Grand Cru White Zinfandel” on the shelves and I doubt anyone wants to see the market saturated with this sort of nonsense.”
ENOBYTES

Russian River Valley

Allen Vineyard

Owner: Allen Family (leased to J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery)
Acres: 14 (Pinot Noir) and 16 (Chardonnay)
Years planted: The oldest 4.9-acre vines at “Allen North Hill” date to 1974 and were planted by Joe Rochioli, Jr. using cuttings from Rochioli’s West Block planting. The original vines were removed after harvest in 2019 and replanted in 2020 with Pommard 4 clone on 101-14 rootstock. Later expansion of North Hill by the Joe and Tom Rochioli included 5 acres of a mix of Pommard and West Block selection bringing the North Hill to +/- 10 acres. The 2-acre “South Hill” was also planted in the late 1970s and has since been removed. It was replanted with Dijon 115 in 2017. South Hill is now close to 4 acres. The Pinot vines in the vineyard are now divided into three areas: North Hill, which partly surrounds the older Williams Selyem winemaking facility, South Hill and West Hill.
Location: The Middle Reach of the Russian River Valley on Westside Road (across the street from Rochioli in Healdsburg).
Aspect: Western, hilly side of Westside Road. East to west and north to south rows. Sloping bench land and flat land at 110-120 feet elevation.
Pinot Noir scions: West Block selection (? Pommard), Pommard 4 and Dijon 115.
Soils: Arbuckle gravelly loam and Yolo sandy loam overflow (pebbles, river rock and dark loam with streaks of red clay).
Vines: Rootstocks are AxR1 and 101-14. Trellising is bilateral cordon.
Farming: The irrigated vines are managed by the crew of J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery.
Winery clients: The portion of the original Allen Vineyard named Three Corner Vineyard was deeded to Joe Rochioli, Jr. for the work he did in establishing and farming the Allen Vineyard. It thereby became an estate vineyard of J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery. Clients include Williams Selyem since 1980 and Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery.
Comments: Howard Allen was a fourth generation Californian and a University of California at Berkeley alumnus. After his military service, he worked in real estate and property management in Belvedere, north of San Francisco. He passed away on February 1, 2013.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/151/ and www.princeofpinot.com/winery/420/

Arrendell Vineyard

Owner: Hartford Family Winery
Acres: 20, all Pinot Noir
Year planted: Initial planting in 1975 by Warren Dutton. In 1996, Pommard and Dijon 114 and 777 were planted in a part of the vineyard known as Hailey’s Block and this planting has been offered as a separate bottling since the 2004 vintage.
Location: The vineyard is within the coolest mesoclimate of the Green Valley of Russian River Valley, northwest of Sebastopol. It is located in an area that is the first place where fog arrives through Petaluma Gap and the last place where the fog burns off.
Aspect: The vineyard floods easily and is called the “snowshoe vineyard” because in wet years the workers need to wear snowshoes to get through some muddy rows of vines for pruning. Pinot Noir scion: Martini 13
Soil: Goldridge sandy loam
Farming: Challenging as the vineyard struggles to produce one ton per acre. Harvest can be delayed to after Halloween,
Winery clients: None, a monopole
Comments: Although production is small, Arrendell Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a flagship wine for Hartford Family Winery. Some production from Arrendell Vineyard may be included in other Hartford Family winery Pinot Noirs.

More reviews: https://www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/159/

Dehlinger Estate Vineyard

Owners: Tom and Carole Dehlinger
Acres: 25 of Pinot Noir
Years planted: Inaugural planting in 1975 (3.6 acres of Pinot Noir) followed by 14 years of subsequent plantings of Pinot Noir. A second period of Pinot Noir replanting was between 2011-2014. Replanting is still ongoing.
Location: In the heart of the Russian River Valley on Vine Hill Road in the Laguna Ridge subdivision of the Russian River Valley in Sebastopol.
Aspect: Undulating gentle hills that are heavily influenced by maritime fog.
Pinot Noir scions: Pommard 4, Martini 13, Swan selections and clones, Calera, Mt. Eden, and Dijon 943.
Soils: Diverse, but basically Goldridge sandy loam on lower elevations and Altamont gravelly fine sandy loam (Sebastopol series) on hilltops. 25 acres of Altamont soil and 15 acres of Goldridge soil and 5 acres that is a hybrid of the two soil types. The Goldridge soil is deeper, richer and more fertile, while the Altamont soil, which is a variation of Goldridge soil, has a redder color, a different mineral content, and is low in vigor.
Vines: Old vines planted on AxR1 rootstock, 10’ x 8’ spacing, split canopy, VSP Lyre trellis (1993). Some newer vines are VSP trellis. The vineyard features a diversity of vine ages, soil types, and clones.
Farming: Focused on observation of small details. Vigor and soil differences have beeb mapped out throughout the vineyard and these differences are used to delineate management zones. These small sections are harvested separately so as to capture terroir expressions throughout the vineyard. Irrigation in different parts of the vineyard is customized according to soil type and vigor.
Winery clients: None, a monopole
Comments: Pinot Noir releases highlight Goldridge and Altamont sections of the vineyard as well as certain blocks or sections of the vineyard in some vintages. Special bottlings have included Octagon (from vines surrounding an eight-sided house that tom Dehlinger built in the 1970s), Champ de Mars (from a section fo the vineyard with a soil color reminiscent of the red surface of the planet Mars and combines some of the oldest and youngest vines on the property), High Plains (originating from a high-elevation section of the vineyard planted in 1989), Renatus (selection of wines made from young vines), and Old Vine, and Reserve. Recently, a Russian River Valley bottling has been added to the portfolio and contains estate grapes. Second generation vintner, Eva Dehlinger, directs farming of the vineyard and winemaking. Photo below is of recent new plantings of Pinot Noir in Octagon Vineyard at Dehlinger Estate.

More reviews: https://www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/527/

Dutton Ranch Jentoft Vineyard

Owner: Dutton Ranch (joint lease between DuMOL, Occidental Wines, and Dutton Ranch).
Acres: 6, all Pinot Noir Year planted: Steve Dutton’s original planting of Calera clone dates to 2003. The DuMOL block was planted in 2007.
Location: Between the lower Green Valley of Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast, east of Occidental, on Occidental Road.
Aspect: Steep, south-facing hillside at 550-600 feet elevation. The westernmost, highest altitude district in the Russian River Valley.
Pinot Noir scions: Calera (south side) and Swan (north side)
Soil: Shallow Goldridge sandy loam topsoil with underlying sandstone bedrock.
Vines: Vine density is 1,555 vines per acre, rootstock is 420A, spacing is 7’ x 4’, and trellising is VSP.
Farming: The vineyard is farmed to DuMOL’s specifications by Steve Dutton over the past 14 years. The vines are naturally low-yielding, allowing an approach to farming that is relatively low input. The vineyard is Certified Sustainable.
Winery clients: DuMOL produces a vineyard-designate Pinot Noir under the “Ryan” subtitle on the label. Grapes are also sold to Dutton-Goldfield for their ‘Deviate’ Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir bottlings. A new winery, Marine Layer is a client.
Comments: The winemaker and co-owner of DuMOL, Andy Smith, says, “It’s a brilliant site.” DuMOL’s first bottling as a vineyard-designate Pinot Noir was the 2017 vintage. The hallmarks of this vineyard are deep roots, thick fog and a prolonged and steady growing season.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/1920/.

Olivet Lane Vineyard

Owner: Robert Pellegrini
Acres: 32 (Pinot Noir), 38 (Chardonnay)
Year planted: Initial planting in 1975 with vine-by-vine replants since 2019. A 12-acre block of Pinot Noir was added in 2017.
Location: The site is on Olivet Lane Road between Guerneville Road and River Road just east of the Laguna de Santa Rosa in the heart of the Russian River Valley AVA in the city of Santa Rosa.
Aspect: Flat land with north-to-south rows.
Pinot Noir scion: Martini 13
Soil: Well-drained gravelly clay loam
Vines: 12’ x 8’ spacing, AxR1 rootstock, cane pruned on a VSP trellis.
Farming: Farming practices have been altered in the original block of 20 acres of Pinot Noir to preserve the root structure of the vines. This includes training up renewal spurs on the vines that have trunk congestion. Vines are irrigated.
Winery clients: Olivet Lane Estate Pinot Noirs are produced in a winery located on the vineyard property. Merry Edwards has produced an Olivet Lane Vineyard designated Pinot Noir since 1997. Williams Selyem has been a long time winery client. In some vintages, there have been other clients including MacRostie and WesMar.
Comments: A new 12-acre block of Pinot Noir was planted on the west side of the property with the first harvest in 2020. These grapes will be used for the winery’s estate sparkling, rosé, and nouveau programs. Olivet Lane Vineyard should not be confused with an adjacent property, Olivet Ranch, owned by Failla Wines and planted to Chardonnay.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/winery/294/.

Porter Creek Vineyards

Owner: Alex Davis, George Davis
Acres: Hillside Vineyard: 3 acres of Pinot Noir first planted in 1974 by previous owners and acquired by George Davis in 1979 as part of the purchase of the ranch.. Fiona Hill Vineyard: 7 acres of Pinot Noir planted in 1997 by E. & J. Gallo and deeded to Porter Creek Vineyard as part of a property swap.
Years planted: Hillside Vineyard: 1974. Fiona Hill Vineyard: 1997.
Location: On Westside Road north of Wohler Bridge and adjacent MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg.
Aspect: Moderately sloping hillsides. Hillside Vineyard is moderately more elevated than Fiona Vineyard.
Pinot Noir scions: Hillside Vineyard: Martin 13. Fiona Hill Vineyard: Wädenswil 2A
Soil: Hard clay topsoil with fractured stone bedrock
Vines: Hillside Vineyard: St. George rootstock, wide spacing, some conversion to VSP trellis from California sprawl. Fiona Hill Vineyard: spacing 8’ x 5’.
Farming: Continual revitalization with vine-by-vine interplanting and soil improvement. Certified organic and Demeter Biodynamic® in 2003. Largely dry farmed. Alex Davis is the vineyard manager as well as the winemaker for Porter Creek Vineyards.
Winery clients: None, a monopole
Comments: Many of the original vines at Hillside Vineyard have been in continuous production since 1974 making it one of the oldest Pinot Noir vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Yields have become painfully low making the vineyard an economic liability and a candidate for future replanting (acquire the Hillside Vineyard Pinot Noir while you can!). Porter Creek Hillside Vineyard pictured below.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/winery/1006/.

Quail Hill Vineyard

Owners: Anisya and Lynn Fritz (Lynmar Estate)
Acres: 47 total: 31.3 acres of Pinot Noir and 15.7 acres of Chardonnay
Years planted: The original plantings date to 1974. A phased replanting of 71% of the vineyard was undertaken in 1996 and completed by 2005. Select heritage blocks, including the 1.94 acres of Swan selection in Block 2 planted in 1974, were retained. An additional 1.2 acres of Swan selection was planted in 1997 as Block 12 using budwood sourced from the original 1974 vines.
Location: A stunning estate bordered by the Laguna de Santa Rosa wet lands on Frei Road in Sebastopol.
Aspect: One of the cooler areas of the Russian River Valley, exposed to cooling influences from the Petaluma Gap and nearby Laguna de Santa Rosa terraced hillsides.
Pinot Noir scions: Swan, Calera, Mt. Eden, Quail Hill Select (a proprietary selection, possible from La Romanée Vineyard in Burgundy), Wädenswil 2A, ASW1, ASW2, and ASW3 (all from Archery Summit Winery in Oregon), Dijon 943, 114, 115, 667, and 777, Beba (? Spanish origin, Pinot Noir 10), and QHV selection.
Soil: Goldridge sandy loam
Vines: The original Swan selection vines are on St. George rootstock. Other vines are primarily on 3309 rootstock with some 101-14, 1616c, 420a and RG rootstocks.
Farming: Sustainable block-by-block vineyard practices. The habitat has a welcoming variety of fauna and there is a refrain from insecticides. Intense, continuous soil mapping and plant tissue sampling create flourishing vines without unnecessary fertilization. An organic flower and vegetable garden adjacent the winery’s hospitality center provides a bounty for the winery’s kitchen and also a thriving habitat for bees, butterflies and birds.
Winery clients: None, a monopole
Comments: This vineyard is an unusually diverse one with fifteen blocks of Pinot Noir and multiple clone/ selection and rootstock combinations. Some have said that the beauty found at Lynmar Estate is unlike any other that can be found in California wine country. Anisya and Lynn Fritz are resident proprietors and closely woven into the daily operations of the vineyard and winery.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/486/.

Ritchie Vineyard

Owner: Kent Ritchie (since 1974)
Acres: 65 total: 3 acres of Pinot Noir, 45 acres of Chardonnay, and some Sauvignon Blanc.
Year planted: Pinot Noir planted initially in 1972
Location: Just down the street from the Joseph Swan Trenton Estate Vineyard at the intersection of Eastside Road and Eastside-Healdsburg Road in the Laguna Ridges subdivision of the Russian River Valley in the small town of Forestville.
Aspect: Situated on a hillside bench adjacent to a volcanic cinder cone. Northwest-facing hillside leading into the Russian River at an elevation of 200 feet. Coastal breezes and cool morning fog.
Pinot Noir scion: Martini 13, some Pommard 5
Soil: Goldridge topsoil with underlying pumice not found elsewhere in the Russian River Valley
Vines: Wide spacing, AxR1 rootstock. More than 50% of the Pinot Noir vines are original.
Farming: Kent Ritchie has farmed this unique site with passion and personal attention.
Winery clients: The original Pinot Noir block is sourced exclusively by Nicolai Stez, proprietor and winemaker of Woodenhead Vintners who bottles a Ritchie Vineyard Pinot Noir under the “Cinder Cone” name.
Comments: The Ritchie Vineyard is renowned for Chardonnay and I consider it one of the top four Chardonnay vineyards in the North Coast. The 1972 plantings of Old Wente Chardonnay are most prized by winemakers.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/364/.

Rochioli Vineyard

Owners: Rochioli family (J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery)
Acres: Total 140, 75 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted:
1968: 4 acres of East Block , last vintage was 2008. 4 acres replanted in 2010 and now named Mid 40 Vineyard.
1969: 4 acres of West Block planted. Currently, the remaining original vines make up 2.0 acres and an additional 2.5 acre of plantings in 2008 bring the total to 4.5 acres.
1974: 4.9 acres of Three Corner vineyard planted in the North Hill of Allen Vineyard using cuttings from West Block. The vines were removed after harvest in 2019 and replanted in 2020 with 5 acres of Pommard 4 clone.
1985: 2.2 acres of Little Hill Vineyard established with additional plantings in 1994, 2005 and 2014 bring the total to 15.7 acres.
1989: 13 acres of River Block Vineyard established with additional plantings in 2000 and 2008 bring the total to 26.7 acres.
1998: 2.9 acres of Sweetwater Vineyard established with additional plantings in 1999, 2000, 2011,
2014, and 2017 bring the total to 14.5 acres.
2009: 4.6 acres of Big Hill Vineyard planted.
Location: The Middle Reach subdivision of the Russian River Valley on Westside Road in Healdsburg.
Aspect: Mostly on Low-lying flatland near the Russian River.
Pinot Noir scions: One or more Pommard field selections from Karl Wente estate plantings.
Soil: Goldridge sandy loam
Vines: Original plantings have 14’ x 8 spacing on AxR1 rootstock for the West Block. Other blocks vary and include more modern spacing.
Farming: Tom Rochioli and Joe Rochioli, Jr. direct the farming. Fog is a major factor in the successful growth of vines in the Russian River Valley but fog also creates the milieu for mildew. There is constant monitoring for mildew with spraying sometimes required every 10-14 days during the growing season. The proximity to the Russian River creates a vulnerability to pests including the blue-green sharpshooter and the mealybug.
Winery clients: Rochioli Vineyards Pinot Noir clients allowed to display “Rochioli Vineyard on their label are few and include Castalia, Gary Farrell Winery & Vineyards, Miura, Ramey Wine Cellars, and Williams Selyem.
Comments: The West Block is referred to as the “mother block” because cuttings from this block have been used for all subsequent block plantings on the Rochioli ranch as well as many other vineyards in the Russian River Valley including the Allen Vineyard. All the Rochioli vineyards make up an “elite” grouping and the winery produces vineyard-designated Pinot Noir from West Block, Three Corner, River Block, Sweetwater, and Big Hill vineyards as well as an Estate Pinot Noir composed of grapes from all Rochioli vineyards. There is a long waiting list for wineries wishing to purchase grapes from Rochioli Vineyards.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/343/.

Soul Patch Vineyard

Owners: Guy and Judy Davis (Davis Family Vineyards)
Acres: 7 of Pinot Noir
Year planted: 1996
Location: The Laguna Ridge subdivision of the Russian River Valley in Sebastopol.
Aspect: Eastern-facing hillside, vineyard rows run north to south.
Pinot Noir scion: Pommard, Calera, and Dijon 777, 667, and 115.
Soil: Goldridge sandy loam with a very high amount of volcanic ash.
Vines: 7’ x 5’ spacing. 26 years of Pierce’s Disease led to planting of host plants for the bugs that eat the sharpshooter larvae and remove the vine hosts of the sharpshooters. This is slowed that spread but hit the vineyard hard from 2013 to 2015.
Farming: Owner and head winemaker Guy Davis farms the vineyard with his co-winemaker son Cole. Farming has been organic since the original 1996 planting and earth-friendly farming practices are employed exclusively.
Winery clients: None, a monopole
Comments: The vineyard also has some Zinfandel vines dating to 1896 and some Syrah and Chardonnay plantings.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/1591/.

Trenton Estate Vineyard

Owners: Rod and Lynn Berglund (Joseph Swan Vineyards)
Acres: 11 acres total, 8 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted:
1969: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon
1974: Pinot Noir
1996: Two blocks of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon closest to the winery were pulled out and replaced with budwood from other estate Pinot Noir vines plus Dijon clones 113, 114, 115, 667, and 777.
Location: On Laguna road in the Santa Rosa Plain subdivision of the Russian River Valley near Forestville. The Santa Rosa Plain lies between the Laguna Ridge subdivision to the West and the city of Santa Rosa to the East. Although the vineyard is only a few miles south of Westside Road and the Middle Reach subdivision of the Russian River Valley, the climate at Trenton Estate is distinctly cooler, foggier and wetter. Aspect: In a cool, little dale between rolling hills. The majority of the vines are planted north to south on south-facing hills that roll from east to west.
Pinot Noir scions: The original source of Pinot Noir was most likely Mount Eden (Martin Ray) through the Experimental Station in Oakville. The vine mix was later named and certified as the Swan clone and became widely distributed throughout California. There are also reports of vine cuttings planted at Swan’s vineyard that originated at DRC in Burgundy as well as Dijon clones that were given to him. The current mix at Trenton Estate vineyard is 70% Swan clone/selection and 30% six Dijon clones including faux 828.
Soil: Goldridge sandy loam
Vines: The original Pinot Noir plantings had a 12’ x 6’ and later 10’ x 6’ spacing, with no trellising. The vines were established with Joe Swan’s version of a head-trained cordon with three stations for spurs (low, middle, and high). In 1990, a VSP trellising was installed with two cordons, one on each side and modified in years to follow.
Farming: There is a very long time between fruit set and harvest. Rod was the first and only person trusted by Joe Swan to prune the vines. Initially, farming was conventional but converted to organic methods over time. High volume cover crops are employed that are spaded in. Only sulfur and naturally occurring bacterium parasitic to botrytis are sprayed. During the growing season, much of the work is pretty standard. Early suckering is followed by shoot positioning and moving of the catch wires along with leafing in the fruiting zone on the morning sun side of the vines. Since yields are low, fruit thinning is minimal although any defective fruit or clusters that are on shoots that are too short to fully ripen are thinned out. The property is not fenced to allow native wildlife free reign.
Vineyard clients: None, a monopole
Comments: Twice in 19 years the “Pentagon” bottling of Trenton Estate Pinot Noir was produced from the latest ripening section of the vineyard that is located at the western corner of the south block. In the early 1970s, Pinot Noir was planted here on a fairly narrow and steep, north-facing strip on the upper slope, with Old Wente clone of Chardonnay planted lower down. The Pinot Noir in this section is usually the last to be harvested despite being very shy-bearing. The vineyard is rarely irrigated but this section has always been dry farmed. The name “Pentagon” refers to the pattern of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay plantings in this special section of the Trenton Estate Vineyard.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/175/.

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Elite California Pinot Noir Vineyards Part II: North Coast - Other Appellations

“I firmly believe that vineyard work is the route to a balanced wine.”
Jeff Brinkman, winemaker at Rhys Vineyards

Devil’s Gulch Vineyard

Owners: Mark and Myriam Pasternak
Acres: 14 acres of Pinot Noir
Years planted:
1980: 3 acres of Pinot Noir (Martini 15) and 4 acres of Chardonnay (Clone 4)
1998: 11 acres of Pinot Noir (Dijon clones 114, 115, 667, and 777)
Location: Wedged between Sonoma County to the North and the San Pablo Bay to the South in the tiny town of Nicasio in Marin County. The Devil’s Gulch Ranch abuts the 800+ acres of the Golden Gate Recreation Area.
Aspect: Terraced blocks facing south with slopes that exceed 60% in some areas with the rest of the vineyard straddling a ridge top. The elevation is 700 feet above sea level.
Pinot Noir scions: Martini 15, Dijon 114, 115, 667, and 777
Soil: Decomposed sandstone that provides superb drainage and a high mineral content.
Vines: Original 1980 planted has 10’ x 6’ spacing with vines on AxR1 rootstock. The 1998 plantings have 8’ x 5’ with vines on 3309 and 420A rootstocks. The original vines are cane pruned on a quadrilateral modified Scott Henry system. The 1998 planting is all VSP trained. The entire vineyard is drip irrigated using a two hose system to insure the vines in poorer soils receive adequate water and the vines in better soils are not over irrigated.
Farming: Mark farms the vineyard and produces his own compost from the rabbits, pigs and sheep that he raises on the ranch. He was one of the first in California to graze his sheep in the vineyard during the winter, a trend that is more commonplace now. He has also used his chickens to reduce the cover crop. Although he is an advocate of organic farming, he has found it necessary to use Roundup sparingly for weed control due to the steepness of the vineyard. The rest of the foliate spray program is done using organic materials.
Winery clients: Dutton-Goldfield and Sean Thackrey (Hartford Court, Kalin, and Schramsberg in past).
Comments: The extremely mild and lengthy growing season is conducive to growing Pinot Noir but rain in the spring is common so that yields can be low. The risk of rain and fungus at the end of the long growing season can also severely reduce yields. Mark has managed or consulted on all or nearly all the vineyards in Marin County for many years. My last review of Sean Thackrey Andromeda Devil’s Gulch Ranch Marin County Pinot Noir was the 2015 vintage when my August 6, 2017 notes say, “Commendable balance with a density that does not sacrifice charm. A truly unique wine from a challenging site crafted by a contemplative winemaker”. Score 95. Dan Goldfield crafts’ one of California’s greatest Chardonnays from this vineyard.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/124/.

Donum Estate Vineyard

Owner: With the divorce of Anne and Markus Moeller-Racke and the sale of Buena Vista to Allied Domecq in 2001, Anne split off 147 acres of the Buena Vista Estate, retaining Tula Vista Ranch that she first planted in 1989-1990 and renamed the property Donum, Latin for “Gift of the Land,” Estate. The Donum Estate was sold to Winside, Inc. in late 2011, a partnership of Danish investors led by Allan and Mei Warburg. Anne left Donum Ranch in the summer of 2019.
Acres: 91 (82 acres of Pinot Noir and 9 acres of Chardonnay). The original planted 45 acres was formerly the Tula Vista Ranch of which 5.5 acres was Pinot Noir and this block has gone into the West Slope bottling of Pinot Noir. Donum also owns a 16-acre vineyard in the Russian River Valley and a newly acquired and newly planted 20-acre vineyard site in Bodega, adjacent to Benziger’s de Coehlo Vineyard.
Years planted:
1985-1989: a 40-acre plot that has now been replanted.
1989-1990, 2013, 2016, and 2018: about 10 acres of the 1980 plantings of Pinot Noir remain.
Location: Sonoma Carneros region just north of San Pablo Bay (Carneros AVA)
Aspect: Moderate slopes of three hills with much of the vineyard either west or east facing.
Pinot Noir scions: Heirloom selections including the Donum selection that is presumably a Roederer selection, Chalone selection, Hanzell selection, Swan, Calera, Pommard and Wädenswil clones, and Dijon clones 115, 667, and 777.
Soil: Heavy clay content with a mix of clay loams, with some areas having sand in the subsoil.
Vines: Mostly 7’ x 4’ spacing with some 8’ x 4’. All blocks except West Block are two-cane VSP trellised while the West Slope block is on a tow-arm cordon.
Farming:Organic methods and biodynamic processes since 2020. Organic certification with CCOF is expected in 2022 at which time Donum Estate will become Sonoma County’s second largest organic vineyard owner and the largest organic vineyard on the Sonoma side of Carneros.
Winery clients: Donum Estate Pinot Noir grapes have been sold to Cattleya Wines and La Rochelle as well as bottled under the Robert Stemmler label in the past.
Comments: A stunning collection of contemporary sculpture is placed within the vineyards. The West Slope bottling since 2007 comes from a 5.5-acre plot planted to the Donum selection and is the culmination of the search for the top Pinot Noir terroir in Carneros. The White Barn bottling comes from a block of Wadenswil clone next the the estate’s white barn. The Mikado Tree bottling since 2017 comes from a block of Swan clone. Additional Pinot Noir bottlings include Three Hills and Carneros Estate. The Ferguson Block adjacent to the Donum Estate was planted by Thomas Ferguson to the Martini clone in 1974. The grapes were sold exclusively to the Donum Estate and the resultant wine was labeled as “Thomas.” The vines were pulled out in 2016 and Thomas Pinot Noir was no longer produced. The Ferguson Block Vineyard was bought by Donum Estate, replanted in 2018-2019, and the grapes are incorporated in Estate Pinot Noir bottlings. An estate winery on the vineyard property opened in 2019.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/606/.

Etude Estate Vineyards at Grace Benoist Ranch

Owner: Tony Soter founded Etude Winery in 1982 and sold the winery to Beringer Blass (Fosters Wine Estates) in 2001. Soter had envisioned planting Pinot Noir at the Grace Benois Ranch, but Beringer has acquired the property and first planted vines there.
Acres: A 1,250-acre ranch with 158 acres of Pinot Noir assigned to Etude Winery.
Year planted: 2000 (?). Pinot Noir first came into production in 2002
Location: Far northwest corner of the Carneros AVA at the southern tip of Sonoma Mountain on Cuttings Wharf Road. Grace Benoist (pronounced “ben wah”) Ranch is situated on the Sonoma side of Carneros and borders part of the Durrell Vineyard.
Aspect: Exposed to the cooling effect of fog and maritime breezes that travel in from the Pacific via San Pablo Bay and the Petaluma Gap. A rambling tract of grazing land with the Rodgers Creek Fault Line located a few hundred feet west of the Ranch and the Bennet Valley Fault Line underneath the property.
Pinot Noir scions: 6 acres of heirloom selections (mainly Swan, Chalone and Calera selections) planted at Grace Benoist Ranch using cuttings from Etude’s original heirloom selection program, plus Dijon clones 114, 115, 113, 667, 777, and Pommard 5, and Martini 13 clones.
Soils: Three distinct types: (1) Petaluma Formation of coarse sand and gravel deposited by a system of rivers, lakes, and streams, (2) Sonoma Volcanics, and (3) Quaternary Unknown comprised of varying concentrations of volcanic pebbles, cobbles, and boulders. In summary, well-drained, rocky soils of volcanic origin that are very atypical for Carneros.
Vines: Cordon-trained on a VSP trellis. A low density planting. Rootstocks match the soil types and different microclimates in the vineyard.
Farming: Sustainably farmed with a holistic winegrowing approach that nurtures the soil, respects the native ecosystems, and reduces the environmental impact.
Winery clients: Beringer, and Chateau St. Jean, with the majority of Pinot Noir going to Etude.
Comments: The vineyard is divided into 24 individual blocks, averaging 8 acres in size, each with its own soil type, rootstock, grape variety, and clonal type. There are several smaller vineyards within the Ranch including four Pinot Noir vineyards sourced by Etude: Laniger (Dijon 115), Deer Camp (Martini 13 clone), Temblor (Dijon clones), and Heirloom. There are also 6 acres of Chardonnay, 14 acres of PinotGris, 8.5 acres of Merlot and 2.5 acres of Malbec.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/1707/.

Hanzell Vineyard

Owner: De Brye family since 1975
Acres: 46 planted acres on a 200-acre estate with 14.5 acres of Pinot Noir.
Years planted:
1953: Original plantings of 3 acres each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in The Ambassador’s Vineyard. The Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard, currently including 4.04 acres of Pinot Noir, is part of a vineyard block now called Zellerbach Vineyard that also contains newer plantings of Pinot Noir. 15%-20% of the original vines have been replanted.
1957: Additional plantings of Pinot Noir in The Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard were grafted over to Chardonnay in 1998.
1965-1975: Day Vineyard, 5 acres of Chardonnay
1976: de Brye Vineyard, 16 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
1999: Sessions Vineyard, 4 acres of Pinot Noir
2001: Ramos Vineyard, 5 acres of Chardonnay
Location: High above the town of Sonoma at the toe of the Mayacamas Mountain range overlooking the southwestern end of Sonoma Valley and San Pablo Bay. A completely unique site for growing Pinot Noir in the Sonoma Valley AVA.
Aspect: Terraced and contoured vine rows with both western and southern exposures and slopes of up to 38%. The elevation is 670-785 feet above sea level.
Pinot Noir scions: The source of the Pinot Noir planted in 1953 is not clear. Legend has it that founding winemaker Brad Webb took cuttings on a clandestine mission to Napa from Pinot Noir planted at the To-Kalon Vineyard in Napa that originally was sourced from Santa Cruz Mountains vintner Martin Ray. Another more plausible version is that To-Kalon Vineyard manager Ivan Schoch, who was also the vineyard manager for Hanzell Vineyards, selected budwood from To-Kalon Vineyard for the 1953 planting. In still another version, Schoch took cuttings directly from La Cresta Vineyard upon the advice of A.J. Winkler. The de Brye Vineyard was planted with budwood taken from the 1953 and 1957 blocks of the Ambassador’s Vineyard and the Sessions Vineyard was propagated from cuttings taken from the 1953 Ambassador’s Vineyard. All the Pinot Noir scion in Hanzell vineyards is a selection massale derived from the original vines. The Hanzell clone or UCD 108 underwent micro shoot tip tissue culture to eliminate viruses at Foundation Plant Services in 1997. A limited amount of Hanzell clone is planted in other California vineyards.
Soils: Rocky volcanic and Red Hill clay loam with excellent drainage.
Vines: Primarily St. George rootstock. The average vine age is 35+ years.
Farming: A “Bio-farm” approach is used to limit the site’s carbon footprint. Biodynamic principles are woven in with the goal of being 100% self-sustained. Any material brought onto the property from outside sources is Certified Organic solely from manufacturers with strong ethical, social, and environmental platforms.
Winery clients: None, a monopole.
Comments: The Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard contains the oldest producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines in California. Grapes from the original vines in The Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard are typically blended with grapes from other estate vineyards that were planted in subsequent years (De Brye, Sessions, and Zellerbach) to produce the winery’s annual Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir. In 2003, 2007, 2014, and 2018 Hanzell bottled a Pinot Noir solely from the original vines and labeled the wine Hanzell Vineyards The Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir (only made available to certain wine club memberships. In the 2018 vintage, a Hanzell Farm The De Brye Selection Pinot Noir was offered in both a 100% whole cluster and 100% de-stemmed version. A second Pinot Noir label produced annually, Sebella, is moderately priced ($45), and includes grapes sourced from other vineyards.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/400/.

Haynes Vineyard

Owner: This property was purchased from Nathan Coombs by James Whitford in 1885. Irene Whitford Haynes, along with her son Duncan and daughter-in-law Patricia Haynes, planted the first Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines. The vineyard was sold to billionaire businessman Gaylon Lawrence, Jr. for $12.5 million in 2019.
Acres: 32 total acres with 3.5 acres of old vine Pinot Noir.
Years planted: 1966, 1997, and 1968 by Duncan and Patricia Haynes under the tutelage of Louis Martini, Jr.
Location: East of the city of Napa in the cool portion of the Coombsville AVA.
Aspect: The vineyard is open to the morning fog and buffeted by afternoon breezes from San Pablo Bay. The marine level sinks down into the Coombsville Bowl on cool mornings and does not break up until the afternoon, creating the mildest growing season in the Napa Valley. Pinot Noir scion: Martini from Three Palms Vineyard cuttings. An experimental three rows of Cabernet Sauvignon struggled to ripen in this location over a four-year period.
Soil: Volcanic, alluvial soil known as Coombsville gravelly Loam that is both well-draining and rich in minerals. The rocky alluvial soils sit atop a porous white ash deposit that extends at least 40 feet deep.
Vines: The original Pinot Noir vines are on their own roots.
Farming: Fernando Delgado lived on and farmed the property from 1971 to 2018 and is responsible for the longevity of the original plantings. Pruning was done for each vine individually according to its strength and potential, choosing which canes to keep and how many canes and shoots that each vine could grow.
Winery clients: Tulocay Winery has produced Pinot Noir from the original old vines continuously since 1975. Tulocay is one of the very few Napa wineries that started in the 1970s and is still owned and operated by its founding family. Ancien Wines has bottled a Haynes Vineyard Old Block Pinot Noir annually since 2012. Ancien owner Ken Bernards tediously selects every vine that is harvested for this vineyard-designate because many of the vines have suffered from virus infestation. Ken walks the rows and only selects fruit from original and healthy vines. 2019 is the final vintage for Ancien (and I assume Tulocay as well) since the new owner plans to start a new winery producing small-lot Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah beginning with the 2020 vintage. Due to the very low yields from the old block of Pinot Noir, it may not be financially sensible for the new owner to continue to maintain the old vines.
Comments:André Tchelistcheff worked with these grapes in the 1970s, making Reserve Pinot Noir wines during his time at Beaulieu. Warren Winarski, who founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, championed the Chardonnay from this vineyard.

More reviews: www.princeofpinot.com/vineyard/470/.

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Exceptionally High-Scoring Wines in This Issue

99

2016 Joseph Swan Vineyards Trenton Estate Vineyard Pentagon Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

97

2018 Davis Family Vineyards Soul Patch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2018 DuMOL Jentoft Vineyard “Ryan” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

96

2018 Ancien Haynes Vineyard Coombsville Napa Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Dutton-Goldfield Devil’s Gulch Ranch Marin County Pinot Noir

2018 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir

95

2014 Woodenhead Ritchie Vineyard Cinder Cone Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2015 Woodenhead Ritchie Vineyard Cinder Cone Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Ancien Haynes Vineyard Coombsville Napa Valley Pinot Noir

2017 J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery Three Corner Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Dehlinger Goldridge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Lynmar Estate Old Vines Quail Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Williams Selyem Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2019 Williams Selyem Rochioli Riverblock Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

94

2016 Dutton-Goldfield Deviate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

2016 Joseph Swan Vineyards Trenton Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2016 Tulocay Haynes Vineyard Napa Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Castalia Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2017 DuMOL Jentoft Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Hartford Court Arrendell Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2017 Porter Creek Hillside Vineyard-Old Vine Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Dehlinger Goldridge Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Donum Estate West Slope Single Block Reserve Carneros Pinot Noir

2018 Etude Grace Benoist Ranch Vineyyard Carneros Pinot Noir

2014 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir

2018 Williams Selyem Allen Vineyard Pinot Noir

2018 Williams Selyem Rochioli Riverblock Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

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Wine Briefs

ISFAR Critique 250: Importance of a Favorable Pattern of Drinking on Risk of Mortality The International Scientific Forum on Alcohol Research (ISFAR) recently reported on their critique of a scientific paper appearing in Mayo Clin Proc 2021;96:1758-1769 titled, “Alcohol Consumption Levels as Compared with Drinking Habits Predicting All-Cause Mortality and Cause-Specific Mortality in Current Drinkers.” Overall, Forum reviewers agreed with the main outcomes of the study, which indicate subjects with a favorable Drinking Habit Score (DHS), that is those consuming 3 or more days/week and consuming alcohol with meals, in comparison with other drinkers had significantly lower all-cause mortality, cardiovascular (CDV) mortality, cancer mortality, and death from other causes. The authors report that for all-cause, CVD, and other cause mortality, subjects with a favorable DHS showed a U-shaped or L-shaped curve. Even the heaviest drinkers had a mortality risk the same or lower than that of abstainers. Only for cancer mortality was there an increase in risk for subjects in the higher category of alcohol intake, leading to a J-shaped curve. The authors did not report specifically on the types of beverage being consumed but the subjects were in southern Europe where typically wine is consumed with meals. We now realize the importance of the pattern of drinking. This constitutes not only the type of beverage and frequency of drinking, but also the consumption of alcohol with food and the absence of binge drinking. The pattern of drinking appears to be as important as, or even more important than, the quantity of alcohol consumed.

A Small Amount of Alcohol Each Day Lowers Risk Protects the Heart in People with CVD Those who have heart disease who imbibe a small amount of alcohol each day have a lower risk of having another heart attack, stroke, angina or early death. This very large study found that drinking just over a bottle of wine each week (105 grams of alcohol) appeared to protect people who had previously suffered a heart attack from having another attack or early death. This amount of alcohol is much less than currently recommended in the US (196 grams per week). Drinking even less alcohol, that is 8 grams a day lowers the risk of a second cardiovascular event by 27%, while drinking only 6 grams per day (a standard glass of 12% table wine is about 5 ounces or 14 grams of alcohol) found the benefit to almost double to 50% less risk.The study would indicate that those who suffer with CVD and resultant angina, stroke or heart attack, don’t necessarily have to stop drinking but they should consider lowering their weekly alcohol intake.

Moderate Drinking Said to Contribute to Well-Being and Health Professor Pierre-Louis Teissedre, the chairman of the Health and Safety Commission of the International Organization of Vine and Wine and an enology researcher at the Bordeaux Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences (ISVV), said recently, “If I drink wine in moderation with a meal, it brings me pleasure, flavor, and emotion. It is an essential part of a happy lifestyle. When you are deprived of it, you feel a loss. Moderate wine consumption should be safeguarded and promoted. It contributes to our well-being and therefore to our health.” David Spiegelhalter, a professor at the University of Cambridge, wrote something online a few years back but his point remains timely, “Claiming there is no ‘safe’ level of alcohol consumption does not seem to be an argument for abstention. There is no safe level of driving, but the government does not recommend that people avoid driving. Come to think of it, there is no safe level of living, but nobody would recommend abstention.”

In-Depth Scientific Review Reveals Wine and Cheese in Moderation Can Lower Risk of Heart Disease Dr. Gabriele Riccardi, professor of endocrinology and metabolic disease at the University of Naples Federico II, published the results of an intensive review of the literature to determine the association of different foods and the incidence of cardiovascular disease (CVD). Riccardi found that the regular consumption of cheese, coffee (three cups per day), and wine led to a reduced incidence of CVD. With wine specifically, two glasses of wine per day was linked to a 32 percent decrease in CVD compared with people who abstained but drinking more than this increases the risk. He recommends moderate consumption of full-bodied red wines because they are highest in polyphenols and have important anti-inflammatory effects that can reduce the risk of CVD and diabetes. Visit: https://www.winespectator.com/articles/moderate-wine-cheese-and-coffee-consumption-linked-to-healthier-hearts

Jamie Goode Doesn’t Feel Guilty About Drinking Wine - Neither Should You Jamie Goode is a highly respected wine writer from the UK who has written multiple books on wine. In his blog, Wineanorak at www.wineanorak.com, he recently approached the subject of wine drinking and the widespread message that there is no safe level of drinking. His conclusion is as follows. “The answer to misuse is not disuse, but correct use. We need to fight back against the current polarized take on drinking. Wine is a positive force when used correctly. It’s healthful, it brings joy, it’s culturally rich, and it lends itself to healthy modest consumption with food. Its place at the table is what makes it such a rich cultural gastronomic item: as we eat together, a glass or two of wine opens us up to each other. It relaxes us and sets us free to more fully engage with each other socially. It also serves an important psychological role: we take a sip of wine and this signifies a social time - we are off the clock - we are relaxing. We shouldn’t be made to feel guilty about our drinking.”

Noted Wine Writer Dan Berger Links Wine Consumption with Longevity Dan Berger, writing August 5, 2021, in the Napa Valley Register, in support of the health benefits of wine consumption in moderation. He listed the ages at death of numerous wine luminaries: Andre Tchelistcheff, 92; Napa Valley winery owner Peter Mondavi, SR., 102; Modesto winery owner Ernest Gallo, 97; Napa winery owner Robert Mondavi, 94; wine author Leon Adams, 90; British wine critic J. Michael Broadbent, 92 and so forth. Some of these men were also lifelong smokers. I like to point out that America’s beloved spokesman, Will Rogers, once said, “The wine had such ill effects on Noah’s health that it was all he could do to live 950 years. Just 19 years short of Methuselah. Show me a total abstainer that ever lived that long.”

Extensive Article on the History of Wine and Its Arrival in Santa Barbara County Judith Dale has penned a comprehensive look at the history of wine in Santa Barbara County accompanied by many historical photographs. This is a very worthwhile 5 minute read: https://syvnews.com/lifestyles/columns/judith-dale-the-history-of-wine-and-its-arrival-in-santa-barbara-county/article_f4b395bfc84d-53eb-b0b2-c353560f896d.html

Saving Wine Grapes from Smoke Vintage 2020 was a complete loss for many wineries in the North Coast of California and the Willamette Valley of Oregon due to smoke taint from wildfires. Wildfires also threaten the 2021 harvest. I recently learned of Purfresh Wine’s ozone (O3) technology used to treat grapes pre-crush to improve fermentation and wine quality as well as to remove the smoke taint. Purfresh Wine’s success in saving smoke-affected grapes was recently featured in Wine Business Monthly and covered in the Napa Valley Register. The benefits of Purfresh Wine’s system are purported to include removal of sulfur, pesticides, and fungicides pre-crush, reduced need for SO2 post-crush, reduction of bad bacteria and year issues (Brett), helps limit and avoid stuck fermentations, improvement in roundness, and fruit-forward palate note, increased content of health-promoting stilbenes, and removal or reduction of smoke taint molecules pre-crush. Of significant importance is that Purfresh ozone container trials show promise for smoke-affected wine grapes. Read more at www.purfreshclean.com. A related approach was reported in the publication Molecules in March 2021. The researchers from Australia looked at the mitigation of smoke taint by post-harvest ozone treatment of grapes. The study involved Merlot grapes. The ozone treatment not only gave significantly lower volatile phenol and volatile phenyl glycoside concentrations but also diminished the sensory perception of smoke taint in the finished wine. the ozone works more effectively when smoke-derived volatile phenols are in their free (aglycone) form, rather than glycosylated forms.

Got Brett? Some people like the smell of Band-Aid or sweaty saddle in their Pinot Noir but I am not a fan. Some drinkers believe Brettanomyces yeast (Brett) can add complexity to a wine but producing a wine with just a little bit of Brett is a dicey proposition. So-called “Brett,” is the result of a number of compounds produced by the yeast Brettanomyces bruxellensis and it's relative Dekkera bruxulensis. Three important aromatic compounds are most important: (1) 4-ethyl phenol produces the aroma of Band-Aids, antiseptic and horse stable, 4-ethyl guaiacol has the odor of smoked bacon, spice, or cloves, and (3) isovaleric acid has the smell of sweaty animals, cheese and rancidity. Brett is almost exclusively found in red wine as a result of complicated organic chemistry enzyme processes originating from tannin substances extracted from red grape skins. Brett has become infrequent in domestic Pinot Noir because of careful barrel hygiene. Yeasts love oak barrels and grow readily in them in a warm cellar. Read more by David W. Brown in an article titled, “Understanding Brett and Its Decisive Impact on Wine” at www.pix.wine/the-drop/what-is-brett-yeast/.

Clos Pepe Vineyards and Estate Villa for Sale for $9.75 Million The vineyard, located in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA on Highway 246 in Lompoc, has produced award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for many years. Steve and Cathy Pepe and Cathy’s son Wes Hagen established this estate vineyard and wine label after purchasing the property in 1994. A 15-year vineyard lease was granted to Hall Wines of Napa who marketed the Clos Pepe Vineyard Pinot Noir under their Walt label. The Pepes retained ownership of the property and lived in the villa on the property until May 2021 when the vineyard and villa were listed for sale. I consider the Clos Pepe Vineyard one of California’s elite Pinot Noir vineyards.

Stephen Tanzer Becomes Vinous Critic Emeritus For years in the 1980s and 1990s I subscribed to Tanzer’s The New York Wine Cellar and later his International Wine Cellar publication. I acquired a wealth of knowledge about wine, particularly Burgundy and his wine journal’s wine reviews led the groundwork for my reviews when I launched the PinotFile in 2002. It is said that he tasted in excess of ten thousand wines in a year and did this for over three decades. Now Tanzer is transitioning his responsibilities to the team of critics at Vinous and continues to write occasional articles. Visit www.vinous.com.

2022 International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) Tickets Now Available Now in its 36th year, the 2002 IPNC is set for July 29-31, 2022, at Linfield University in McMinnville, Oregon. This year’s theme is “Through Rosé Colored Glasses.” The Master of Ceremonies will be rising wine star, Phillipe André. The all-inclusive weekend ticket includes intimate access to a special Sparkling Wine Session which will showcase wines from 12 of the finest Champagne and Sparkling Wine producers in the world. There will also be 70+ premium Pinot Noir producers from all corners of the globe, dozens of James Beard-worthy and award-winning chefs from the Pacific Northwest. Buy tickets now at www.ipnc.org. IPNC 2020 was canceled and IPNC 2021 was virtual so the opportunity to attend in person is extra special.

Second Annual Palm Springs Pinot Noir Fest Also known as “A Passion 4 Pinot,” this event is scheduled for Saturday, January 8, 2022, at the J.W. Marriott Desert Springs Resort & Spa in Palm Desert. Some of the 60 top-tier Pinot Noir producers pouring at this event include Balletto, Beau Marchais, Blue Farm, Bucher, Clarice Wine Co., COBB Wines, Domaine Anderson, Domaine Della, Drew, FEL, Foxen, Freeman, Gary Farrell, George, Kanzler, Kosta Browne, Lynmar Estate, Maggy Hawk, Papapietro Perry, ROAR, Sangiacomo Family Vineyards, Saxon Brown, Scherrer, Small Vines, The Calling, Tongue Dancer Wines, Twomey, and Williams Selyem. For more information visit www.palmspringspinotfest.com. Tickets will go on sale September 20, 2021.

Josh Jensen Looks Back on 40 Years Laura Ness wrote an excellent article at www.sanbenito.com dated July 19, 2021, and well worth a read. Josh, the founder of Calera Wine Co. in Hollister is now retired after selling his winery to Duckhorn Wine Company in 2016. He looks back on 40 years at the helm of this winery. His colleagues in school were all certain he would fail with the Calera project but as Laura points out, he has had the last laugh.

Marc Goldberg: Another Accomplished Pinot Noir Pioneer of Less Repute Mira Advann Honeycutt wrote an article about vintner Marc Goldberg in the Napa Valley Register on June 10, 2021. He has earned a reputation for successfully growing and producing excellent Pinot Noir in the western part of the Paso Robles AVA at his Windward Vineyard. Along with his spouse, Maggie D’Ambrosia, they launched Windward Vineyard in 1988 in the cooler side of western Paso Robles’ along Highway 46 West near Templeton. The famed HMR Pinot Noir vineyard is close by and indicated to Marc that the potential for Pinot Noir winegrowing lay in this region. Marc and Maggie were both former hospital administrators and Pittsburgh natives with a love for Burgundy. 15 acres of Pinot Noir were planted in 1990 with selections from the HMR Vineyard, Adelsheim (Oregon), Bien Nacido, and Sanford & Benedict. The winery’s Pinot Noir is a monopole, signifying that the vineyard is controlled by and the grapes only harvested by one winery. I reviewed Windward Pinot Noirs favorably from 1999 through the 2005 vintages, but none since, and it is high time I visit again to taste the maturity of the vineyard. I have added it to my bucket list. Visit www.windwardvineyard.com.

Palos Verdes Peninsula is California’s Newest AVA Pinot Noir from Southern California? You bet. After three years, Palos Verdes Peninsula became the 142nd AVA in California. The drive for AVA recognition was led by Jim York, owner of Catalina View Wines that grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the seaside region. Ken Brown is the winemaker for Catalina View Wines’ Palos Verdes Peninsula Pinot Noir.

Triennes Rosé: A Wine with an Exceptional Pedigree Two of the greatest names in Burgundy - Jacques Seysses, founder of Domaine Dujac, and Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti - are the partners behind this property in the South of France, northeast of Marseille, and about 20 miles inland from Bandol. Through the years, the pair have transformed this 46-hectare site into one of the top wine estates in Provence. Imagine that one of the most exceptional values in French rosé can boast a bloodline tracing back to the most historic and expensive wines of Burgundy. Produced mainly from Cinsault with a bit of Syrah and Grenache, it is a best seller. The 2020 vintage is priced at about $14 a bottle (12.5% alc.). Available at Woodland Hills Wine Company and other retail outlets.

Flash! New Research on Wine & Longevity Spanish researchers at the University of Valencia in Spain reported in August at www.ciencia-e-vinho.com a study of the effects of red wine on longevity and its associated genes in human populations and Drosophila flies, in controlled conditions. Discoveries showed that the consumption of two glasses of 200 ml of red wine, one during lunch and another with dinner for two weeks, resulted in a significant increase in the expression of genes implicated in longevity in immune cells. Also, there was an increment of longevity by 12% in the flies that had consumed red wine mixed with their food, in moderate amounts, throughout their lives. The researchers concluded that moderate consumption of wine augments the expression of the key genes associated with longevity in humans.

And An Unhealthy Report A study conducted by RTI International, a nonprofit research institute, reported in August that compared with February 2020 at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, consumption of alcoholic beverages in April and November 2020 increased by 36% and 39%. The largest increases in consumption were observed in Black people, people with children, and people with mental health problems who drink to cope. Among those with children, the largest increase in consumption occurred among women with young children (ages 0-5).

Russian River Paulée Dinner Inspired by the late November Paulée de Mersault in Burgundy, this event is a celebration of the new harvest where winemakers gather with those who share their passion for wine. The winemakers dig deep into their personal cellars to bring out amazing bottles (not just Pinot Noir). Guests are invited to do the same. 25 premier Russian River Valley wineries will be participants including The date is Friday, September 3. The location is 7394 Starr Rd, Windsor. The cost is $250. For information and tickets, go to www.russianrivervalley.org/events/paulee-dinner. Use PAULEE2021 for a discount on your ticket.