VOLUME 8, ISSUE 20
August 24, 2010
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Romancing the Dijon Clones Buena Vista: My House Red and White Lenné Estate: 2008s are Best Ever Domaine Drouhin Oregon: Burgundy’s First Footprint in Oregon Spätburgunder Robert Sinskey Vineyards Raiding the Library of the Pinot Carzina: Lane Tanner Pinot Noir, 1988-2007 LIOCO Winery: A Different Path Sta. Rita Hills: California’s Best AVA for Chardonnay? Sips of Pinot Noir Pinot Briefs Doctoring Wine for Optimum Drinking
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Littorai
Ted Lemon’s story is quite unique among California winemakers. The origins of his interest in wine can be traced to a study-abroad program at the University of Dijon in Burgundy while still a high school student. The director was so impressed with Lemon, he offered him a job if ever decided to take up winemaking. After graduating from Brown University, he was awarded a fellowship to return to France in the fall of 1980 to study viticulture and enology. He apprenticed in several famous Burgundy domaines including Dujac, Roumier, and Bruno Clair. When funds ran dry, he returned to the United States where he worked with Josh Jensen at Calera Winery. ![]() In 1982, while at Calera Winery, he was surprised by a phone call from Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac who asked him, “How would you like to make Meursault?” At Domaine Guy Roulot in Meursault, one of the oldest and most traditional wineries in Burgundy, Guy Roulot had died and his family was searching for another winemaker. The Roulot family sought the advice of Jacques Seysses. “Of all the apprentices I have had, and I have had many,“ Jacques Seysses told Madame Roulot, “none have been as bright and as capable as Ted Lemon. He has so many fine qualities, but there are two problems. He is 25-yearsold, and he is American.” Although Madame’s first reaction was “impossible,” after consulting with Aubert de Villaine, Patrick Bize, and others, she offered to make him the first (and to this day, the only) American winemaker and vineyard manager in Burgundy’s history. Lemon arrived at Domaine Roulot in 1983 (photo right). Because lemon spoke French fluently, he was able to assimilate and overcome the initial surprise and skepticism of the village people. He said, “At first I had to prove myself physically to the cellar and field help. I had to prune as quickly, drive a tractor as well, and work as hard as they could. And I had to prove to Madame Roulot, who was so devoted to Guy, that I could keep up the reputation of his wines.” Lemon made very good wines and quickly became accepted by the locals. After two years at Domaine Roulot, he was lured back to the United States by a French family that had purchased a vineyard on Howell Mountain above the Napa Valley. Their intent was to produce a French-style Chardonnay in California. The land here had been first planted in 1877 with vines from the Medoc region of France. Jean Adolphe Brun and W. J. Chaix were the original French owners and they built the Howell Mountain Winery on the property in 1866. It became Chateau Woltner in the mid-1980s and it was here, in 1985, that Lemon oversaw renovations of the aging winery and became the vineyard manager as well as winemaker. Chateau Woltner’s Chardonnays soon became a favorite among American wine connoisseurs. With his winemaking skills honed and assured, Lemon and his wife Heidi founded Littorai in 1993. He had spent a summer with his wife driving up and down the Pacific Coast tasting local wines and learning about the soil and history of the local vineyards. Lemon had a firm belief in terroir inspired by his years in France. According to Lemon, “I believe soil is of major importance in a wine’s character. It’s clear there are tremendous differences between wines made from vineyards right next to each other even if they are vinified and treated exactly the same way.” Finally, Lemon settled on sourcing his grapes from vineyards in western Sonoma and western Mendocino counties. He believed the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were grown along the true coastal zone of the continent. He was convinced that the geology and mesoclimates of the extreme western portion of the continent north of San Francisco were diverse enough to create a series of unique terroirs, each with its own characteristics. He named his new venture Littorai which is a pleural noun formed from the Latin word litor-, which means the coasts. The word Littorai, with its reference to geography, reminds us that wine, the noblest agricultural product, arises from the weave of place (vineyard), time (vintage), and man. His Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are highly lauded and age worthy. They are only sold through a mailing list and to restaurants. I consider some of the Pinot Noirs among the finest I have ever drunk from the New World. Ted is currently constructing a 10,000 case winery on his estate in Sebastopol and will accept visitors by appointment probably beginning in 2009. His vineyard sources are all carefully supervised by Ted who is a strong believer in sustainability and biodynamie. Vineyards include Summa, B.A.Thieriot, The Haven and Hirsch on the Sonoma Coast, and Savoy, One Acre, Cerise, and Roman in the Anderson Valley. He is developing a couple of vineyards himself as well. Articles About Littorai
Along the Pinot Trail (8.17 6/21/2010)
Anderson Noir Valley Pinot (Pt II) (7.19 6/5/2009) Chardonnay: What Gives In PinotFile? (8.15 5/24/2010) Early Sips of 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir (8.7 12/16/2009) Littorai Wines Age Gracefully (6.17 2/26/2007) Littorai: A Burgundian Heritage (8.3 10/15/2009) Pinot Noirs from Producers Outside the Anderson Valley that Source Grapes from within the Anderson Valley (6.60 6/9/2008) Pinots from the Edge (6.57 4/7/2008) Savoy Vineyard: Innovation Leads to Excellence (8.9 1/22/2010) Small Sips of California Pinot Noir: Just Drink It (7.3 10/1/2008) Small Sips of Pinot (6.46 11/20/2007) Small Sips of the Russian River Valley (6.63 8/4/2008) Sustaining on Pinot in Noiregon (7.2 9/15/2008) Tasting of Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs (6.28 6/3/2007) Reviewed Wines![]() 2007 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., $60. · Takes some time to open in the glass. The redder spectrum of fruits are featured in the nose with bright cherries and strawberries, lightly spiced, with herb, oak and floral notes as well. Slightly confected cherry and strawberry flavors with an earthy underpinning and a hint of citrus. I thought I could also taste edible flowers. Moderate tannins, and a refreshing grip of acidity on the finish. Drank beautifully the next day from a previously opened re-corked bottle. This wine will reward further cellaring. Very good. Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., $60. · An impressive nose that builds and builds in intensity over time in the glass featuring black cherry fruit with a subtle hint of oak. Very tasty black cherry bombast with firm, fine-grain tannins, an appealing touch of earthiness, a silky mouthfeel and a memorable aromatic finish. This wine shows Ted Lemon’s signature: perfectly harmony. This brilliantly crafted wine continues to open in the glass over time demanding your attention. Approachable now, but patience will be rewarded. Reviewed January 22, 2010 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., $65. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Complex aromatic profile of black cherries, raspberries, fresh flowers, and earth (what I call muddy boots). Very tasty essence of black cherries and blackberries that really grabs your attention. Refined and delicate with moderate fine-grain tannins, perfect balancing acidity, silky texture, and pleasing aromatic persistence on the finish. Still marvelous and even better three days later from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. A love letter to keep and treasure. Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 Littorai B.A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.6% alc., $70. Divorce between the and wife owners of Thieriot required renaming of the source and B.A. was chosen as these are her initials. Littorai continues to have a 25-year lease on sections of the vineyard which Ted farms himselves. · The deepest colored wine of the three wines reviewed here. Beautifully perfumed with purple fruits and flowers with a hint of toasted oak. Delicious core of dark cherries, berries and plums with a touch of oak spice. A seamless wine with young dry tannins and bright acidity that is only hinting at its ultimate potential. Will need time to integrate the oak and shed tannins. A debutante with a promising future. Very good. Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Littorai The Haven Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir The Haven Vineyard is three miles from the Pacific Ocean just south of Jenner. Aged in 50% new French oak. · The aromatics feature some reduction with dark fruits enhanced by exotic woods and a touch of char. A healthy core of black raspberry and blackberry fruit with charming highlights of anise and chocolate. Young, rich and still quite tannic, the memorable finish goes on and on. I would sit on this one for a few years. Reviewed September 15, 2008 ARTICLE »
2006 Littorai Les Larmes Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 293 cases, $45. Composed of declassified fruit from Cerise and Savoy vineyards and intended for earlier drinking. · Subdued but very pleasing scents of cherries, hay and white pepper. Admirable richness with bright flavors of cherries and red apples flanked by bright acidity. Smoothly textured and easy to drink. I call the Les Larmes bottlings, which are a blend from the Anderson Valley appellation, “Baby Littorai” wines, as they are perfectly good daily drinkers that will show well at the table and demand no contemplation. Like babies, they are fun when they are young. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 379 cases, $60. From a vintage in which the wines are marked aromatically by fruit and flower, generally have less tannins, and earlier approachability. · Noticeably lighter and redder in color and lighter in weight than previous vintages from this vineyard. Delicious ripe strawberry and cherry fruit accented with baking spices and hay. Gossamer tannins create a soft and rather elegant wine that lacks a little punch on the mid-palate. A bright wine that will perform beautifully at the table. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.6% alc., 636 cases, $65. · Moderately deep garnet in color. Showy aromas of dark red stone fruits, slightly confected, with underlying baking spice and char. Medium-weighted and more elegant than the previous three vintages but with an admirable mid-palate attack of tasty dried cherries. Bright acidity, soft tannins and a slightly viscous texture come together in a very congenial package. Very appealing now but has the cajones and balance to age. Really sings with food (try it with a Pastrami sandwich, you will be surprised). Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., 305 cases, $70. · Clearly the most approachable and most seductive wine in the lineup. Ted says, “As gentle a wine as Littorai can make.” Heavily perfumed with Bing cherries, strawberries and Provencal herbs with a hint of incense. The redder fruits explode in the mouth, finding every crevice and lingering for some time. Lovely richness of flavor with gossamer tannins and bright acidity. Very harmonious with charm to thrill. As sexy as this Pinot is now, it has the balance to go the distance, so did feel rushed to pull the cork now. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 Littorai Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 121 cases, $80. · Lightest in color of the four vintages in this flight. Demure but enticing aromas of cherries and raspberries with a hint of Asian spices and oak. Veers a little more toward the redder fruit spectrum than the previous three vintages. Full-on generous flavors of creamy cherry and raspberry fruit. The flavors march in waves across the palate leading to a finish that won’t quit. Absolutely gorgeous and pure, and not propelled by high alcohol. A little lighter-weighted than the 2004 and 2005 vintages, yet equally, if not more satisfying with more finesse, yet possessing enough tannin to age. Close to a perfect California Pinot Noir and a sure fire First Team Pinot Noir All-American for 2009. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2005 Littorai Les Larmes Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 303 cases, $42. Savoy and Cerise declassifications primarily. · Dark cherry red in color. Strong herbal and mineral bent to the aromas accompanied by reductive matchstick notes. Nice mouthful of black cherry fruit which is clean and pure with a green and citrus note. Something chemical or medicinal is present that I can’t put my finger on. Tasted two separate bottles and both were very similar. I would wait on this wine. Reviewed June 9, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Littorai Les Larmes Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 303 cases, $42. A vintage marked by more tannins and concentration. · Moderately light reddish-violet color. This wine speaks of the earth throughout. Brambly red cherry and plum aromas and flavors with a hint of funkiness, hay, meat and tar. Bright acidity makes for refreshing drinking. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 84 cases, $63. · Really charming nose that is both floral and fruity with hints of leather and forest floor. Dark red and blue fruits are augmented by tastes of savory herbs and sweet oak. Notably structured with dry tannins perfectly balancing the lively acidity. Silky textured and quite harmonious. Very good. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2005 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 84 cases, $65. · Darkly fruited perfume with notes of hay and grass. Similar flavor profile with the fruit showing considerable restraint. Silky with powdery tannins and assertive acidity producing a short, tart finish. Needs patience. Reviewed October 1, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Littorai Mays Canyon Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., $65. · Darker fruits from start to finish with prominent notes of herbs and wildflowers on the nose and oak and smoke on the palate. The tannins are reigned in, the wine is light on its feet, but the finish lacks intensity and length.. Reviewed August 4, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Littorai Roman Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 36 cases, $65. A 1.87 acre vineyard exclusive to Littorai. · Very dark reddish-purple in color. The nose features deep, dark, super ripe berries, oak shavings, truffle and pine sap. In the mouth there are lovely oak-kissed dark fruits and herbs. Slightly jammy with a suave texture and fine-grained tannins on the finish. Decent but not extraordinary. Reviewed June 9, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Littorai Roman Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 36 cases, $65. This vineyard, owned by Al and Lynn Roman, is located just above Esterlina Vineyard high up Holmes Ranch Road. Only 1.87 acres in size, it sits on a knoll facing due south with full sun exposure. The vineyard has been controlled and organically farmed since the start by Littorai and the fruit is exclusively Littorai’s. · Complex aromatic profile of black cherries, spice, grass and smoke. Woodsy cherries, cardamon and tea with a pleasingly soft texture, fine ripe tannins and a dry finish. This wine has a certain lightness, airiness if you will, making it enticingly elegant. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.8% alc., 48 cases, $70. · Predominant scents of straw and pine forest with berry fruit in the background. Earthy and herbal with a brooding red and blue fruit core, firm tannins and a silky mouth feel. Well-crafted, but doesn’t deliver enough Pinot love. Decent. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 Littorai Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 24 cases, $80. · Similar to the 2004 vintage but a bit denser with more body. Alluring scents of black cherries, black raspberries, wood shed and mint. Luscious dark stone fruits with hints of herbs, earth and cola. Smooth, even creamy, with silky tannins. Perfectly balanced. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.2% alc.. · Moderate straw color in the glass. Shy perfume of lemon tart, espresso and oak toast with a hint of funk that dissipates with time in the glass. Tasty flavors of lemons, Asian pear and coffee with a subtle note of oak-derived burned marshmallow in the background. Plenty of finesse and well proportioned acidity. Like most of Ted Lemon’s wines, they don’t come to you, you have to seek out the nuances. Very good (-). Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Mays Canyon Russian River Valley Chardonnay 14.2% alc.. Brian’s favorite wine! Lemon says, “Great Chardonnay is one of the rarest and most exciting wines in the world.” By the way, Lemon also remarked in his recent newsletter that the current 2005 vintage may be the greatest for Chardonnay he has ever seen in 24 years of making it - equal or better than 1986, 1994, and 1995 in California and 1982, 1986, and 1996 in Burgundy! · Very Meursault-like. Beautifully balanced with an appealing mineral and citrus aftertaste. No buttery oak onslaught here. A charming wine that was drinking even better with more richness from the opened bottle eight hours later. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
![]() 2004 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 300 cases, $55. · Heady aromas of black cherries, black currents, and spice. Delicious black cherries jump out on the palate with a hint of citric peel on the hi-pitched finish. This is a wine for those who say California Pinot Noir doesn’t have enough acidity. Very good. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2004 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., $55, 360 cases. · A beautiful wine filled with pinotosity. Spicy red fruits (cherry and raspberry) compose the aromatics, bright and clean red fruits dance on the palate, and a nice acid lift completes the finish. Perfectly balanced. I liken this one to a fine tapestry where everything is beautifully organized and composed. I re-corked and finished-off this delicious wine the next day. Reviewed June 3, 2007 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 360 cases, $55. · saved the best for last. This was one of the best bottles of California Pinot Noir I have had this year and my notes fill up the best part of a page. This is one of those wines that when you pull the cork, sensual musk-like aromas waft up from the bottle immediately. Complex scents explode from the glass including black cherry, chocolate, coffee, smoke, earth, herbs, and barnyard. New aromas dart in and out with each swirl. In the mouth, there is juicy and succulent dark fruits enhanced by anise and tea notes. Bright acidity and gossamer tannins lead to a refreshing grip that draws you to a second glass. This is a tour de force for Anderson Valley. Tasted twice a couple months apart - same result. Reviewed June 9, 2008 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 95 cases, $60. · Deep, dark ruby robe. Shy nose that needs swirling in the glass, showing dark fruits, toast, and medicine cabinet. A bruising and sinister Pinot that is loaded with rich, dark Pinot fruits and an underlying primal earthiness. Well-crafted and balanced. The soft texture is heavenly. Tasted the next day from a previously opened re-corked bottle and this wine tasted noticeably smoother and more integrated. I would suggest cellaring this wine further or decanting it if you plan to drink it now. Reviewed June 9, 2008 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 95 cases, $60. This vineyard is planted to the Martini clone. · Moderately dark reddish-violet color. Initially shy, the nose explodes over time in the glass with volumes of black cherries and blackberries. Richly flavored but ephemeral in style with earth-kissed fruit, beet root and a hint of metal. The tannins have begun to melt away creating a very smooth and satiny mouth feel. Impeccable balance. Close to the One Acre in sensual pleasure. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2004 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., 240 cases, $65. · They say that perfect Pinot Noir hasn’t been made yet, but this one comes darn close. Lovely cherry aromas complimented by subtle oak spice and loamy earthiness all carrying over to the palate. Demure yet potent with a persistent aromatic finish. Perfectly balanced and complete in every way. Thieriot Vineyard is a superstar among California vineyards and is clearly my favorite Pinot Noir year in and year out from Ted Lemon at Littorai. Reviewed October 1, 2008 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., 200 cases, $65. · Lovely nose featuring fresh, sweet dark red cherries and berries and hints of straw and smoke. Discreetly concentrated black cherry and berry essence that is bright and clearly focused on the palate, ending with an aromatic and extended finish. Perfect in every way. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai One Acre Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 140 cases, $70. The final vintage from this vineyard which underwent replanting due to phylloxera. As Lemon says using an opera analogy, “The fat lady came out for one last belt.” This vineyard was planted on poor soils on the Dear Meadow Ranch owned and farmed by Rich Savoy. · Penetrating aromas of crushed black cherries, ripe berry jam and spice. A special wine that is layered with rich berry fruit and an appealing earthiness that reminds a walk in a freshly dewed forest. The smooth mouthfeel is very comforting and the finish would make Hollywood proud. A profound 100 point Pinot Noir that one could sip all night. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2004 Littorai One Acre Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 140 cases, $70. · I had a multitude of descriptors for this wine because it kept changing in the glass. Pinot Noir is, after all, a chameleon. At times I noted black cherry, raspberry, plum, sassafras, savory oak, char, violets and some minerality in the aromatic and flavor profile. A full mouthful of fruit but very smooth and light on its feet. Iron fist in a velvet glove comes to mind. Impeccable craftsmanship and a memorable wine. This too drank beautifully the following day indicating there are many good drinking years ahead for this wine. Reviewed June 9, 2008 ARTICLE »
2004 Littorai Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 36 cases, $70. · Heady aromas of fresh cherry tart and forest floor. Pure, fresh and vibrant. Ambrosial flavors of loamy dark cherries with a sidecar of savory herbs. Seamless, soft and sensual in the mouth with gentle tannins and a clean, fruity finish. Excellent. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2004 Littorai The Haven Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., $75. · Darkly colored, this wine offers a very unique aromatic profile of sweet smoke, tar, herbs, char and hay. The brooding fruit is darkly colored and there is a curious whiskey taste. Full-bodied, plenty of woodsy notes, soft tannins, and a lingering fruity finish. Reviewed April 7, 2008 ARTICLE »
2003 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 660 cases, $50. · Very dark reddishpurple color. Ultra-ripe aromas of cooked cherries, raisins, black currents and a touch of porto. Rich and meaty on the palate, with a plethora of ripe, dark raisiny fruits with notes of earth and sassafras. Soft in the mouth with supple dry tannins. Too ripe and chunky for me. Decent. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2003 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., 220 cases, $50. · A subdued nose of cherries and hay field. Tasty ripe strawberry, black raspberry and black cherry fruit that is vivid and penetrating. Admirable finesse with mild dry tannins and a persistent meatiness and earthiness to the finish. Beautifully composed wine with still plenty of life for the long haul. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
2003 Littorai Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., $60, 160 cases. · This wine needs some air time to blossom. The aromatics are rich with cassis and sweet oak. Spicy cherry flavors are sleek and the finish echoes with lively acidity. As usual with Littorai wines, the balance is spot on. Reviewed June 3, 2007 ARTICLE »
2003 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 100 cases, $60. · Appealing scents of black cherries, cinnamon, wet stone and old oak barrel. Plenty of luscious cherry and black raspberry fruit with a mineral and woodsy edge. A notable tannic backbone. Nicely composed and weighted and perfectly harmonious. An excellent wine that would charm anyone’s heart, but the 2002 version can STEAL your heart. Reviewed November 20, 2007 ARTICLE »
![]() 2003 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.6% alc., 100 cases, $60. · Strikingly pure with aromas of intense dark red cherries, strawberries, straw, grass, incense and mahogany. An appealing richness with a mid palate attack of delicious fruit that has a liquor-like lift to it. Despite its appealing hedonism, the wine has class and elegance displaying a very smooth texture and caressing tannins. You can’t say no to this one. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2003 Littorai Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., 85 cases, $65. · Darkest in color of the four vintages in this flight. Aromas of black cherries, plums, black currents, Guiness and a hint of oak. Black fruited, intense and very ripe, almost syrupy with a slight raisiny flavor. So much fruit, it seems cloying. Very smooth and silky with a good acid underpinning. Decent Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2002 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.0% alc., 205 cases, $55. I have a few thousand bottles of Pinot Noir in my cellar (duh, what a revelation), and a Littorai wine from Ted Lemon is often my choice on special occasions. This was my Thanksgiving Day dinner wine. Ted says that the 2002 vintage was perhaps the greatest vintage at Littorai. “The Pinot grapes were as perfect as anything we have ever seen. The Pinots are a wonderful expression of perfectly ripe fruit with full but integrated tannins.” He felt the 2002 Pinot Noirs were entering adolescence and required a few more years of patience. I just couldn’t wait. · A wine that defies description. As you sip it, you just shake your head and say, “This is great.” Precise descriptors don’t do it justice. Heaven sent from start to finish with plenty of charisma that only Pinot Noir can deliver. Imagine this wine when it grows up! Reviewed November 20, 2007 ARTICLE »
2002 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.25% alc., 205 cases, $55. · My favorite year for this vineyard. I have had this wine more times than I can count, and each time it was stunning. Unfortunately, this bottle did not quite match up to other lofty memories. Teasing, forward aromas of Bing cherries, wild strawberries and raspberries, and faint oak char. Tasty cherry and berry core with a hint of cola, tobacco, char and wood. Some lingering tannin and plentiful acidity for a refreshing finish. Very good. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2001 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 357 cases, $55. · Very fresh for an older wine with vibrant aromas cherries, berries, and sweet oak spice. Lip-smacking juicy cherry flavors dominate with a subtle hint of confection. Still young at heart with supple tannins, a silky mouth feel and a long and lush finish. Everything is in perfect harmony. Very good. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2000 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.2% alc.. Littorai was one of the first and most important purchasers of the famed Hirsch Vineyard and came to Hirsch at the same time as Burt Williams and Steve Kistler in 1994. Most producers who source fruit from Hirsch Vineyard do so from different blocks that are scattered over the hilltops and hillsides on the 1,100 acre Hirsch property. This arrangement means that no Hirsch Vineyard wines from different producers can be tasted and contrasted in the context of a proper terroir tasting in the Burgundian sense of the word. · A typical Hirsch with a big and expressive nose of dark stone fruits, exotic spices, and cinnamon. Big-boned and well-muscled, it is nevertheless, beautifully balanced and composed. The tannic edge to the finish will soften with further cellaring. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
2000 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., $50. · Deep color with a slight orange tinge to the rim in the glass. The nose is brimming with black cherry fruit enhanced with a gorgeous secondary bouquet of coffee, cardamon spice and leather. A plush and creamy palate of roasted plum, root beer, brown spice and tobacco flavors robed in supple tannins and finishing with a lively grip on the persistent finish. This wine is showing its age beautifully and will be orgasmic for lovers of older Pinot Noirs. Reviewed June 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
1999 Littorai One Acre Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.4% alc.. Alas, One Acre Vineyard had to be replanted and the 2004 vintage was the last for several years. · This Pinot is a showoff. The alluring aromas of dark cherries, barnyard and dark chocolate lead you to plenty of dark Pinot extract in the mouth. The mid palate flavors are big and powerful, yet the wine finishes on a lengthy and delicate note of cherry fruit. This is truly a complete wine with everything in symphony. This wine makes the hair stand up on the back of your neck. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
1999 Littorai Theiriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.3% alc.. Thieriot is my perennial favorite and the 2001 Littorai Theiriot Vineyard Pinot Noir was my Littorai epiphany several years ago. · A big, rich nose followed by a panoply of dark stone fruits, spice and a little tobacco. Reminds me of a wine from Nuits-St-George. This winner has a very plush mouth feel. Still a Lolita. Thieriot Pinots are like a Prom Queen: she smells great, is beautiful and is someone you could dance with all night. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
1998 Littorai Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.3% alc.. · Very potent and intense aromas of ripe black plums and black currents with hints of herbs, oak, cigar box and black olives. A big-boned, potent wine with a hint of roasted flavor to the dark, earthy fruits. Still sporting well-structured tannins. The least refined wine in this vertical tasting and the most out of character for a Littorai wine. Decent. Reviewed October 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
1998 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 13.8% alc.. Littorai was the first winery to make a vineyard designate from Savoy Vineyard. Now there are multiple producers who purchase fruit from this special site. Lemon was also the first producer to clearly demonstrate the potential for fine Anderson Valley Pinot Noir beginning in 1993. He found that world-class production could be achieved here with low yields, proper clones, vertical trellising, leaf removal, and other farming techniques. · Very light in color and body, this wine blossomed beautifully with air time with more nose and punch than the ‘96. Soft and sweet red fruits are accompanied by dried herbs. The wine finished nicely with a hint of oak and cashmere tannins. Savoy reminds me of the shy and demure young lady in the corner, who, when she takes her glasses off and lets her hair down, everyone goes wow! Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
1997 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.1% alc.. · The Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noirs are the biggest, boldest, earthiest, and most sinewy and tannic of the Littorai lineup. This 1997 Pinot still has perceptible tannins on the back end but they are dusty now. There is still plenty of flashy , ripe fruits with a definite underlying earthiness smokiness and minerality. I think this wine could go another 10 years. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
1997 Littorai Theiriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.3% alc.. · This wine is showing a touch of yellowing around the rim. There are sweet dark fruits here highlighted by pepper, wet leaves and anise. The tannins have softened considerably and the finish is very clean with brisk acidity. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
1996 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc.. · The two Savoys tasted here were lighter, more austere with a more notable acid spine than the wines from other vineyards. With swirling, the shy nose opened to bright and rich raisins, currents and exotic woods. A small touch of herbs highlighted the back end. Reviewed February 26, 2007 ARTICLE »
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