VOLUME 8, ISSUE 20
August 24, 2010
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Romancing the Dijon Clones Buena Vista: My House Red and White Lenné Estate: 2008s are Best Ever Domaine Drouhin Oregon: Burgundy’s First Footprint in Oregon Spätburgunder Robert Sinskey Vineyards Raiding the Library of the Pinot Carzina: Lane Tanner Pinot Noir, 1988-2007 LIOCO Winery: A Different Path Sta. Rita Hills: California’s Best AVA for Chardonnay? Sips of Pinot Noir Pinot Briefs Doctoring Wine for Optimum Drinking
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J Vineyards and Winery
Judy Jordan founded J in 1986 to produce sparkling wines of distinction as well as still Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. The winery’s vineyard holdings encompass 278 acres of diverse hillside, bench land and valley floor plantings. The J sparkling wines have been exceptional through the years, the Pinot Gris is among the best in California, but the still Pinot Noirs have failed to distinguish. In early 2006, George Bursick, the former winemaker at Ferrari-Carano for twenty-two years, was hired along with viticulturalist John Erbe to transform J with an emphasis on site-specific Pinot Noir. The 2007 vintage will be the first to fully show the fruits of their efforts. Bursick plans to harvest and vinify each of the many blocks from the vineyards separately. In the winery he has implemented the use of indigenous yeasts and malo-lactic strains, specific lot fermenter punch down regimes, extended fermentations, gravity flow processing, unique French Burgundian barrels, and thoughtful "batonage" during aging. The Pinot Noir lineup includes a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, Nicole's Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Nonny's Vineyard Pinot Noir, and Barrel 16 Pinot Noir. J has a beautiful tasting room at 11447 Old Redwood Highway in Healdsburg where special food-wine pairings can be arranged and sophisticated tastings of sparkling wines scheduled. Articles About J Vineyards and Winery
Adventures Along the Pinot Trail, Part 3 (6.34 7/30/2007)
Along the Pinot Trail (8.17 6/21/2010) Chardonnay: What Gives In PinotFile? (8.15 5/24/2010) J Pinot Noir Now Sparkles Too (6.63 8/4/2008) Praiseworthy 2007 Pinots from J Vineyards (7.21 7/9/2009) Small Sips of Pinot (8.16 6/8/2010) Tasty Pinots from the Russian River Valley (6.51 1/20/2008) Reviewed Wines![]() 2009 J Vineyards & Winery California Pinot Gris 14.4% alc., pH 3.46, 20,000 cases, $15, screw cap. Sourced from the Russian River Valley, Monterey County and the Sacramento River Delta region. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with no MLF. Winemaker George Bursick. · Slight frizz upon pouring. Attractive aromas of tropical fruits, bananas, and lemon meringue tart. Bright and tasty with crisp flavors of yuzu, lemon curd, lychee, pear and pineapple. Very creamy in the mouth with a slightly tart finish. A superb food wine and the best example of Pinot Gris produced in California. Reviewed June 8, 2010 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards & Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Gris 14.5% alc., 17,500 cases, $20. Fruit sourced from the Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Santa Barbara County appellations. Whole clusters gently pressed and fermented slowly at cool temperatures in stainless steel using a variety of Alsatian yeasts. · Alsatian aromatics featuring citrus, wax, and honeycomb. Attractive honeysuckle core, lean and crisp, with lively acidity. Refreshing and easy to drink. At Sona, this was paired perfectly with Hawaiian Kanpachi, avocado, Meyer lemon vinaigrette and rice tuile. Reviewed August 4, 2008 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay 14.3% alc., $28. · Light straw colored in the glass. Toasty oak and sawdust dominate the green apple aromas. Very tasty glazed apple and pear flavors with underlying notes of light caramel, brioche and oak. California-styled with plenty of oakderived aromas and flavors that will find favor with many Chardonnay lovers. Good. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 14,500 cases, $35. A blend of 15 different vineyards from estate vineyards as well as selected growers in the Russian River Valley appellation. Includes a variety of clones, mostly Dijon, as well as Rochioli and 2A. Aged 15 months in 30% new French oak. Blended just before bottling. · This wine is the most expressive aromatically in the lineup. Very fragrant aromas of Bing cherries with an underpinning of baking spices. Cherry driven flavors with subtle hints of brown spice, herbs and oak. Smoothly textured, vibrant and clean with impressive harmony. Very drinkable now. Quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Reviewed July 9, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 J Vineyards Nicole’s Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 1,300 cases, $65. The fruit for this wine was harvested from J’s crown jewel hillside 42-acre vineyard planted to Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier overlooking the Russian River Valley. The soil is Arbuckle series and uplifted river material. Clones include 2A, Dijon 113, 115. Aged in 40% new French oak. · Richly scented with black cherries and ripe berries. The rich and mouth filling melange of berry fruit is supported by a tannic edge that suggests age ability. The finish goes on and on. My notes say, wow! Enough said. Reviewed July 9, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards Robert Thomas Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 400 cases, $65. Winemakers talk about vineyards as if they have personalities and Bursick refers to Robert Thomas Vineyard as “feisty.” This 50-acre vineyard is located in a cool westerly location on Westside Road along the Russian River and is one of the last to ripen. Some parts of the vineyard never do ripen fully and are used in sparkling wine. Leaves are stripped from both sides of the vines to attempt to achieve phenolic maturity (Bursick jokes, “Kids, don’t try this at home!”). Soils are Zamora silty clay loam, dense with gravel. The clones are 114, 777, 828, Pommard, Rochioli and Swan. Aged in 40% new French oak. · Brooding and shy aromas of berry preserves, loam and mint. This wine has the most prodigious fruit and structure in the lineup, yet is not jammy. The dark red fruits are highlighted by notes of cola, tea and dark mocha. Like all the 2007 J Pinot Noirs, the texture is as satiny as a baby’s bottom. Needs time and hardy food. Reviewed July 9, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 J Vineyards & Winery Barrel 16 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., pH 3.82, 300 cases, $70. Released in October 2009. 16 special barrels chosen by the winemaker, George Bursick. 100% destemmed. Aged 12 months in 30% new French oak barrels and 3 additional months after blending. · Nicely composed array of aromas including red berries and cherries, sassafras and oak spices. Wow! Delicious berry melange nicely spiced with hints of mocha, sassafras and melon. Almost a spiced muffin flavor. A unique wine of modest intensity with a silky smooth texture, mild fine-grain tannins and admirable finesse. Decant if you pop the cork now. A special occasion Pinot Noir. Reviewed June 8, 2010 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards Barrel 16 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., 300 cases, $70. This wine is composed of the 16 best barrels in the cellar sourced from J’s estate vineyards. Aged in 30% new French oak. · Moderately deep reddish-purple color. Shy but appealing scents of deep, dark fruit, herb garden and brioche. Luscious black cherry and black raspberry flavors are discreetly concentrated and have a remarkable persistence on the pleasing finish which displays an added echo of dark chocolate, savory herbs and toast. The tannins are very supple, and the mouthfeel is rich, sumptuous and velvety. About as perfect as it gets. Ridiculous now but will only get better with cellaring. Reviewed July 9, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards Nonny’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., 350 cases, $70. Sourced from a 70-acre vineyard adjacent River Road planted in 2000 and newly replanted in 2006 and 2007 to Dijon clones 115, 667, 777, 828 and Calera selection. The soil in this vineyard is Arbuckle Series, a reddish loam with gravel striations. Aged in 30% new French oak. · Forest floor and truffle aromas are front and center with dark fruits finding intensity with time in the glass. Earth-dusted ripe strawberry, black cherry and roasted plum flavors are lush and satisfying. The wine is caressing in the mouth with tannin so fine as to be imperceptible, and ends in a long and powerfully aromatic finish. The soil speaks loudly in this beguiling wine. Reviewed July 9, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 J Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 350 cases, $70. Sourced from the southern reaches of the Sonoma Coast appellation. Aged in 30% new French oak. · An earthy wine which sports powerfully scented and flavored dark fruits that are feral and exotic in type. A hint of mint adds interest on the nose. Very smoothly textured with fine-grain tannins and the slightest hint of oak on the finish. A bright future awaits this lovely wine. Reviewed July 9, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 J Vineyards & Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 21,057 cases, $38. The flagship Pinot Noir sourced from estate vineyards and selected growers in the Russian River Valley appellation. Winemaking described above. Tasted at Sona Restaurant and at home. · Starts out with subtle cherry aromas with baking spice, herbs and a hint of oak. Picks up intensity with time in the glass displaying a more flamboyant cherry perfume. Soft and silky and cherry-driven with a sidecar of oak leading to a dry finish. A straight-forward, perfectly decent Pinot Noir that is ready to drink now. (Note, often found in retail market at less than the full retail price). Reviewed August 4, 2008 ARTICLE »
2006 J Vineyards & Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 14.0% alc., 2,928 cases, $40. All estate fruit. Whole grape clusters were gently pressed with a Coquard Champagne basket press. Free-run juice and press fraction juices were fermented separately with indigenous and wild yeasts. The wine was left to barrel ferment for up to four months followed by two months of malolactic fermentation without nutrients (usually Chardonnay is made “fast and clean” by adding nutrients). The Chardonnay was then blended and aged an additional six months in bottle before release. Viticulture techniques for Chardonnay are directed at avoiding strong green apple and green pear flavors (less ripe) in favor of more melon flavors (more ripe). · Appealing aromas of topical fruits, nuts and understated oak. A wine with charming restraint and delicacy, yet delivering plenty of apple flavor with hints of oak and butter. Paired beautifully at Sona with Maine lobster risotto and shellfish emulsion. Reviewed August 4, 2008 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 J Vineyards & Winery Nicole’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 1,400 cases, $65. Multiple clones, selected barrels. · This wine is a clear step up in class and will please any pinotphile. A reticent but lovely perfume of cherry compote, herbs and oak leads to an explosion of succulent raspberry fruit and spice on the palate. Elegant and sophisticated with a velvety mouth feel and an elaborate aromatic finish. This is the bomb. Reviewed August 4, 2008 ARTICLE »
2006 J Vineyards & Winery Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.4% alc., 389 cases, $70. Sourced from the southern reaches of the Sonoma Coast appellation, five miles from the Pacific Ocean. Long hangtime with ripening not occurring until just before Thanksgiving. Clones are 115, 777, 828 and Pommard. Extended malolactic fermentation in barrel. · This wine was offered for sampling for the first time. Rather shy and withdrawn nose at this young age. Brooding, highly structured black cherry and black raspberry fruit.. Forceful, yet supple, with brisk acidity to offset the healthy tannins. This is a prodigious Pinot Noir that won’t be ready for at least another 6 to 12 months, if then. A wine to contemplate. Reviewed August 4, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir A sultry nose featuring toast and tobacco. Elegant and light in weight, the sweet cherry flavors are highlighted by herbs and toasted oak. Reviewed July 30, 2007 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc., 22,000 cases, $32. A blend from all of the estate vineyards. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. · Rich scents of wild berries and cherries. Subdued red and blue fruits with a leafy and toasty edge. Decent but lacks energy and excitement. Reviewed January 20, 2008 ARTICLE »
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