May 5, 2013
Cork Dork Etude: Inspired Wines of the Carneros the Gardener: Got Organic Grapes? Bravium: Relish the Acidity Rivers-Marie: 2010 & 2011 Reflect the Challenges of Farming on the Edge Dunstan Wines from Durell Vineyard Foursight Wines: Family Excels with Pinot COBB Wines: No Wine Before Its Time Sips of Pinot: Wines Tasted Recently Rosé and Chardonnay: Recently Sampled Wines Pinot Briefs
|
|
Hanzell Vineyards
| Owner(s) | Alexander de Brye |
| Web site | www.hanzell.com |
| Link to this site |
Hanzell is California’s first ‘boutique’ wine estate. Diplomat James D. Zellerbach and his wife, Hana, became fond of Burgundy and its wines while he served as an American ambassador to Italy. Zellerbach was president of Crown Zellerbach, a large forest products company at the time. The Zellerbachs were so inspired that they purchased land on Sonoma Mountain just one mile north of Sonoma Plaza and set to building a winery of redwood and local stone fashioned after Burgundy’s Clos de Vougeot. They planted their first vines in 1953: Chardonnay using the Wente clone and Pinot Noir using the Martin Ray clone. The Martin Ray clonal material was reputedly from a clandestine late night raid on a Napa Valley vineyard by Hanzell’s initial winemaker, Brad Webb. Over the years, the vines have mutated and new vines propagated from them creating a distinct Hanzell selection. The Ambassador's Vineyard, planted in 1953, is the oldest continually producing vineyard of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the New World.
Winemaking at Hanzell was very Burgundian from the beginning and Zellerbach was among the first in California to utilize French oak barrels. In addition, Zellerbach designed the first temperature controlled stainless-steel fermentation tanks used in conjunction with the traditional French oak barrels. He was also was the first to use nitrogen in bottling. Small amounts of wine were sold starting in 1957, but 1965 was the first full-scale commercial vintage.
Bob Sessions followed Brad Webb and was the general manager and winemaker at Hanzell for 33 years. He retired in 2005 and was replaced by Michael Terrien. The current winemaker is Michael McNeill. The house style has remained consistent. Today, Hanzell’s vineyards have increased to 46 acres (27.5 acres of Chardonnay and 14.5 acres of Pinot Noir) which produce 4,500 cases of 100% estate-bottled wine from the estate vineyrds. For the past 30 years, Alexander de Brye has owned Hanzell. The President is Jean Arnold-Sessions.
The Chardonnays have been the star at this winery and often hold up beautifully 20 years and beyond. The Pinot Noirs have had their advocates as well. Annual production is 2,500 cases of Chardonnay and 1,500 cases of Pinot Noir. The wines are expensive but worth it and are sold to a faithful mailing list with limited retail distribution.
Articles About Hanzell Vineyards
Hanzell Vineyards: Revered After More Than 50 Vintages (8.15 5/24/2010)
Hanzell: More Than 50 Vintages (8.7 12/16/2009)
Highlights of the Pinot University Seminars at IPNC (9.10 8/22/2012)
Kick Up Your Heels at the 2012 Oregon International Pinot Noir Celebration (9.7 5/9/2012)
More Sips of California Pinot Noir & Chardonnay (9.20 2/26/2013)
Pinot Briefs (8.44 10/4/2011)
Pinot Briefs (8.37 5/13/2011)
Report from 2009 IPNC (7.22 8/5/2009)
Sips of Chardonnay: Recently Sampled Wines (9.23 4/13/2013)
Reviewed Wines
2009 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.5% alc., $75.
·
Very light
straw color and clear in the glass. Initially reduction aromas of struck
match, resolving over time to reveal scents of straw bale, alfalfa, autumn
leaves and roasted nuts. A seamless wine that enters with tasty flavors
of lemon, pear and peanuts and exits with a lemony riff. Slightly crusty
and salty. Very good acid backbone leads the drinker to another sip.
Finishes impressively with great vigor and focus. Should age extremely well.
Reviewed April 13, 2013
ARTICLE »
2007 Sebella Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.2% alc., 762 cases, $36.
Named after the owner’s children, Sebastian and Isabella. Selected from
barrels, many from newer Chardonnay vines, and crafted for current drinking.
30% barrel fermented, 18 months total elevage, 12 months in 30% new
Sirugue French oak barrels.
·
Pale straw color in the glass. Delicately
perfumed and highly nuanced revealing aromas of poached apple, freshly
toasted brioche and brown butter. Clean and bright on the palate with flavors of red
apple, baking spices and citrus. A lovely drink whose bright acidity refreshes every
sip. Good.
Reviewed May 24, 2010
ARTICLE »
2007 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.3% alc., 2,777 cases, $70.
Several clones including Robert Young, Dijon 76 and Wente. One-third of
the wine fermented and aged in new Sirugue French oak barrels where
MLF was encouraged and the balance fermented cool, in stainless steel
tanks where MLF was discouraged. The new barrel component was aged
18 months and the tank-fermented portion was put into two and three-year old
barrels after 6 months and kept an additional 11 months before blending and
bottling. 69% of the vintage was selected for the estate bottling.
·
Pale straw color in
the glass. Delicate, yet complex aromatic profile that picks up intensity with time in
the glass to reveal scents of white peaches, crushed stones, toasted brioche and
lemon tart. This high-collared wine strikes a perfect balance between welcoming
finesse and impressive finishing strength and persistence. Smoothly textured with a well proportioned grip of
acidity and a very appealing underlying minerality. Flavors of golden apple, white stone fruits and subtle toast
develop strength and brilliance with air time. If you must open a bottle now, decant. A very classy wine that will
hold its own against many Grand Crus white Burgundies. Older vintages of Hanzell Chardonnay are available on the
secondary market through the internet and these will make for remarkable drinking experiences as well.
Reviewed May 24, 2010
ARTICLE »
2007 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., $80. 200-
acre estate with 42 acres of vineyards planted to heritage clones.
·
Moderate
reddish-purple color in the glass. Fresh aromas of dark berry tart, cassis, dark
chocolate, and anise-laced oak. Very earthy and somewhat brooding with
bruising tannins. Moderately richly flavored with dark berries, black cherries and
anise. Much better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle and especially good with beef that counteracts the tannins. This wine
needs more time to integrate and soften the tannins but has a special rugged
mountain character that is appealing. Very good.
Reviewed February 27, 2013
ARTICLE »
2007 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.7, 1,361 cases,
$95. Aged 18 months in 50% new Sirigue barrels.
·
Still tight but this will be a
20 to 30 year wine. Well-scented black cherry fruit lurks behind scents of
oak and underbrush. Rich and satisfying sweet berry and cherry fruit with
healthy tannins and a huge, dry and fruity finish. Plenty of power but the
tannins and acidity bring everything into focus. Down the road this wine has
limitless potential. Lay it down for several years and then party like it was
2007.
Reviewed May 24, 2010
ARTICLE »
2006 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
15.3% alc., $95. The 2006 Estate
Pinot Noir received a week-long cold soak. The must was macerated for nearly
a month creating a firm tannin backbone ideal for extended aging. Sourced from
the 10-year old Sessions Vineyard and the older de Brye and Zellerbach
vineyards.
·
Moderate garnet color with a burnished copper rim in the glass.
Enticing aromas of spiced black cherries, raspberries, dusty trail, oak and a
touch of barnyard. With time, scents of currants and raisin appear. Intense and
juicy, with very ripe, dark red, and soil-inflected fruits showing hints of brioche,
mocha, brown spice and even root beer flavors. The mouthfeel is all velvet, and
the finishing cherry and berry fruits have a memorable persistence. Picks up
interest with time in the glass. There is enough fruit and tannin to buttress the generous alcohol. This wine
makes a case for the affirmative in the argument over whether you can make a Pinot Noir with over 15%
alcohol that is balanced. A California classic that will improve beautifully with several years in the cellar. Very
good (+).
Reviewed December 16, 2009
ARTICLE »
2003 Hanzell Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc..
·
Aromas of fresh black cherries amped to a high level. Bright
and opulent on the nose with an interesting mineral edge. My notes say,
“Remarkable!” Intensely flavored but light on its feet, with a discreetly
concentrated core of cherry and berry fruit set off by notes of bark, peat and
spice. Well-structured with the ripe, soft tannins seemingly caressing the fruit
in velvet. A remarkable wine that I felt honored to drink and one of the
greatest California Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted.
Reviewed May 24, 2010
ARTICLE »
2003 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc.. Crushed before de-stemming. Aged in 57%
new French oak.
·
Very savory with aromas of dark berry jam and herbs. Earthy and spicy black raspberry and
black cherry flavors wrapped in moderately firm, dry tannins, finishing with an herbal note. Good.
Reviewed August 23, 2012
ARTICLE »
2001 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc..
·
A complex perfume of fresh
black cherries, red anise, rock, berries and rose petals. Medium weighted with more
structure and fruit than the 1995 version offering flavors of slightly tart dried cherries,
cherry skins, and berry jam. Delicious with noticeable persistence on the bright
finish. An impressive wine with a lovely sensual modesty. Very good.
Reviewed May 24, 2010
ARTICLE »
1997 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc..
·
Gorgeous garnet color. Noteworthy
heat on the nose and finish. Heady cherry fruit flavors. Soft in texture with fine-grained tannins persisting.
Admirable for a ten-year-old California Pinot Noir but rather one-dimensional.
Reviewed September 2, 2007
ARTICLE »
1995 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc..
·
The nose struck me as very
“Burgundian,” sporting fresh aromas of black cherries, black raspberries, underbrush
and exotic woods. A chameleon in the glass offering many layered flavors of dried
cherries, macerated berries, loamy earth, and savory herbs. The tannins have
melted and the well-proportioned acidity brings everything into balance. A treat.
Very good.
Reviewed May 24, 2010
ARTICLE »
1994 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
Whole cluster fermentation started in the late 1980s and
continued until 2005. Current winemaker, Michael McNeill is bringing back some whole cluster as he feels it
adds an interesting floral and spice box character to the wines. The winery tries to make changes in
winemaking very slowly over time to maintain a consistent style. This wine has 20% whole cluster.
·
Aromas of
grass and straw, showing a medium weight core of dark red fruit backed by firm, dry tannins, finishing very dry,
even slightly astringent. Good.
Reviewed August 23, 2012
ARTICLE »
1986 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
Warm vintage. 20% stems were added back. Aged 24
months in oak.
·
Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Still vibrant on the nose with aromas of dark stone fruit
and berries with a hint of chocolate mint. Plenty of fruit remains backed by persistent, firm tannins. Dark, ripe
fruit is accented by notes of earth and mushroom. Amazing!
Reviewed August 23, 2012
ARTICLE »
2009 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.5% alc., $75. · Very light straw color and clear in the glass. Initially reduction aromas of struck match, resolving over time to reveal scents of straw bale, alfalfa, autumn leaves and roasted nuts. A seamless wine that enters with tasty flavors of lemon, pear and peanuts and exits with a lemony riff. Slightly crusty and salty. Very good acid backbone leads the drinker to another sip. Finishes impressively with great vigor and focus. Should age extremely well. Reviewed April 13, 2013 ARTICLE »
2007 Sebella Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.2% alc., 762 cases, $36. Named after the owner’s children, Sebastian and Isabella. Selected from barrels, many from newer Chardonnay vines, and crafted for current drinking. 30% barrel fermented, 18 months total elevage, 12 months in 30% new Sirugue French oak barrels. · Pale straw color in the glass. Delicately perfumed and highly nuanced revealing aromas of poached apple, freshly toasted brioche and brown butter. Clean and bright on the palate with flavors of red apple, baking spices and citrus. A lovely drink whose bright acidity refreshes every sip. Good. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
2007 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Chardonnay
14.3% alc., 2,777 cases, $70. Several clones including Robert Young, Dijon 76 and Wente. One-third of the wine fermented and aged in new Sirugue French oak barrels where MLF was encouraged and the balance fermented cool, in stainless steel tanks where MLF was discouraged. The new barrel component was aged 18 months and the tank-fermented portion was put into two and three-year old barrels after 6 months and kept an additional 11 months before blending and bottling. 69% of the vintage was selected for the estate bottling. · Pale straw color in the glass. Delicate, yet complex aromatic profile that picks up intensity with time in the glass to reveal scents of white peaches, crushed stones, toasted brioche and lemon tart. This high-collared wine strikes a perfect balance between welcoming finesse and impressive finishing strength and persistence. Smoothly textured with a well proportioned grip of acidity and a very appealing underlying minerality. Flavors of golden apple, white stone fruits and subtle toast develop strength and brilliance with air time. If you must open a bottle now, decant. A very classy wine that will hold its own against many Grand Crus white Burgundies. Older vintages of Hanzell Chardonnay are available on the secondary market through the internet and these will make for remarkable drinking experiences as well. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
2007 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., $80. 200- acre estate with 42 acres of vineyards planted to heritage clones. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Fresh aromas of dark berry tart, cassis, dark chocolate, and anise-laced oak. Very earthy and somewhat brooding with bruising tannins. Moderately richly flavored with dark berries, black cherries and anise. Much better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle and especially good with beef that counteracts the tannins. This wine needs more time to integrate and soften the tannins but has a special rugged mountain character that is appealing. Very good. Reviewed February 27, 2013 ARTICLE »
2007 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.7, 1,361 cases, $95. Aged 18 months in 50% new Sirigue barrels. · Still tight but this will be a 20 to 30 year wine. Well-scented black cherry fruit lurks behind scents of oak and underbrush. Rich and satisfying sweet berry and cherry fruit with healthy tannins and a huge, dry and fruity finish. Plenty of power but the tannins and acidity bring everything into focus. Down the road this wine has limitless potential. Lay it down for several years and then party like it was 2007. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
2006 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
15.3% alc., $95. The 2006 Estate Pinot Noir received a week-long cold soak. The must was macerated for nearly a month creating a firm tannin backbone ideal for extended aging. Sourced from the 10-year old Sessions Vineyard and the older de Brye and Zellerbach vineyards. · Moderate garnet color with a burnished copper rim in the glass. Enticing aromas of spiced black cherries, raspberries, dusty trail, oak and a touch of barnyard. With time, scents of currants and raisin appear. Intense and juicy, with very ripe, dark red, and soil-inflected fruits showing hints of brioche, mocha, brown spice and even root beer flavors. The mouthfeel is all velvet, and the finishing cherry and berry fruits have a memorable persistence. Picks up interest with time in the glass. There is enough fruit and tannin to buttress the generous alcohol. This wine makes a case for the affirmative in the argument over whether you can make a Pinot Noir with over 15% alcohol that is balanced. A California classic that will improve beautifully with several years in the cellar. Very good (+). Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
2003 Hanzell Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc.. · Aromas of fresh black cherries amped to a high level. Bright and opulent on the nose with an interesting mineral edge. My notes say, “Remarkable!” Intensely flavored but light on its feet, with a discreetly concentrated core of cherry and berry fruit set off by notes of bark, peat and spice. Well-structured with the ripe, soft tannins seemingly caressing the fruit in velvet. A remarkable wine that I felt honored to drink and one of the greatest California Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
2003 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc.. Crushed before de-stemming. Aged in 57% new French oak. · Very savory with aromas of dark berry jam and herbs. Earthy and spicy black raspberry and black cherry flavors wrapped in moderately firm, dry tannins, finishing with an herbal note. Good. Reviewed August 23, 2012 ARTICLE »
2001 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc.. · A complex perfume of fresh black cherries, red anise, rock, berries and rose petals. Medium weighted with more structure and fruit than the 1995 version offering flavors of slightly tart dried cherries, cherry skins, and berry jam. Delicious with noticeable persistence on the bright finish. An impressive wine with a lovely sensual modesty. Very good. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
1997 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc.. · Gorgeous garnet color. Noteworthy heat on the nose and finish. Heady cherry fruit flavors. Soft in texture with fine-grained tannins persisting. Admirable for a ten-year-old California Pinot Noir but rather one-dimensional. Reviewed September 2, 2007 ARTICLE »
1995 Hanzell Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc.. · The nose struck me as very “Burgundian,” sporting fresh aromas of black cherries, black raspberries, underbrush and exotic woods. A chameleon in the glass offering many layered flavors of dried cherries, macerated berries, loamy earth, and savory herbs. The tannins have melted and the well-proportioned acidity brings everything into balance. A treat. Very good. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »
1994 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
Whole cluster fermentation started in the late 1980s and continued until 2005. Current winemaker, Michael McNeill is bringing back some whole cluster as he feels it adds an interesting floral and spice box character to the wines. The winery tries to make changes in winemaking very slowly over time to maintain a consistent style. This wine has 20% whole cluster. · Aromas of grass and straw, showing a medium weight core of dark red fruit backed by firm, dry tannins, finishing very dry, even slightly astringent. Good. Reviewed August 23, 2012 ARTICLE »
1986 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir
Warm vintage. 20% stems were added back. Aged 24 months in oak. · Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Still vibrant on the nose with aromas of dark stone fruit and berries with a hint of chocolate mint. Plenty of fruit remains backed by persistent, firm tannins. Dark, ripe fruit is accented by notes of earth and mushroom. Amazing! Reviewed August 23, 2012 ARTICLE »
TRAVEL ALONG THE PINOT TRAIL | PINOT FESTIVALS | PODCASTS AND VIDEO | TESTIMONIALS | GRAPE RADIO | LINKS
© 2003-2011 Rusty Gaffney MD | Contact the Prince: Prince@PrinceOfPinot.com