VOLUME 8, ISSUE 20
August 24, 2010
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Romancing the Dijon Clones Buena Vista: My House Red and White Lenné Estate: 2008s are Best Ever Domaine Drouhin Oregon: Burgundy’s First Footprint in Oregon Spätburgunder Robert Sinskey Vineyards Raiding the Library of the Pinot Carzina: Lane Tanner Pinot Noir, 1988-2007 LIOCO Winery: A Different Path Sta. Rita Hills: California’s Best AVA for Chardonnay? Sips of Pinot Noir Pinot Briefs Doctoring Wine for Optimum Drinking
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Paul Lato
Paul Lato is a Polish-born professionally trained and educated sommelier. In 2002, he decided to follow his dream to make wine and arrived in California's Central Coast. He worked harvests at Au Bon Climat and Qupe as well as Gunderloch in Germany. Starting with the 2002 vintage, he made six barrels of wine. He has grown slowly, crafting under 500 total cases of Pinot Noir and Syrah, but gaining a reputation, and consequently having more and more access to fine vineyards. His distant mentor has been the late Henri Jayer of Burgundy and the Chave family of Rhone. He admires the older style of Williams Selyem wines. His wines are sold through a mailing list with very limited retail distribution. He is not well-known now except to very knowledgeable pinotphiles, but he is on course to be a cult California producer. His Pinot Noirs are sourced from Gold Coast Vineyard, Fiddlestix Vineyard, and Solomon Hills Vineyard. Articles About Paul LatoReviewed Wines2008 Paul Lato Wines “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir Martini clone which performs well at this site. · A real charmer showing tasty strawberry and Asian spice flavors. A delicate minerality roams the background. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato Wines “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir “Sine Cera” is a Latin idiom meaning “without wax.” Wax was used historically to cover imperfections in statues. One new barrel of clone 113. · Lovely aromas of dark cherries and berries with a touch of chocolate and violets. Smoothly textured with supple tannins and a soft and scented exit. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato Wines “Suerte” Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir From a block at the top of the vineyard planted to clones 115 and 667. Solomon Hills is the most westerly vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley and is clearly visible to travelers on Highway 101. “Suerte” means luck and Paul chose this name because he had suffered a string of accidents and survived without significant injury. This wine seemed to bring him luck. · Darker fruited, nicely spiced with plenty of structural power, noticeable oak, soft tannins and a tangy finish that lasts and lasts. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato Wines Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 15.1% alc.. Sourced from the original plantings that are 20 years old. · Full-bodied, intensely fruited, with an appealing earthiness and hints of anise and tar. Despite its heft, the wine retains a lively acidity, moderated tannins and complete integration of the alcohol. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato “Matinee” California Pinot Noir 75 cases, $35. Barrel sample. This is Paul’s first attempt at a blended wine using barrels from Solomon Hills, Pisoni and Gold Coast vineyards that didn’t fit the vision for the single vineyard bottlings. Inexpensively priced as a thank you to customers and possibly a good fit for restaurant by-the-glass programs. · A simple, delicately composed wine featuring dark Pinot fruits with a healthy tannic backbone and a somewhat shallow finish. A perfect daily drinker. Decent. Reviewed March 11, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato “Le Souvenir” Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay 150 cases, $50. Barrel sample. Sourced from the Sierra Madre Vineyard in Santa Maria Valley. 11 year-old Wente clone vines. 70% new oak, 100% MLF, aged sur-lie, native yeast fermented, only first pressing, lightly filtered. · Attractive scent of lemons and roasted nuts. Delicious flavors of citrus and creme brulee with the faintest hint of oak. Think Aubert Chardonnay brought down a notch. Very good (+). Reviewed March 11, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 100 cases, $60. Barrel sample. Aged in 50% new French oak barrels. Martini clone, 14 year-old vines. · Light in intensity and highly aromatic in the fashion of a Chambolle Musigny. Dark fruits, underlying earthiness and edible flower. Wellstructured to last. Down the road will become even more savory. Very good. Reviewed March 11, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato “Suerte” Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir $65. Barrel sample. Clones 115, 667 and 777. · Appealing scents of spiced dark fruits and wet leaves. Moderately rich essence of blue and black fruits with a spicy, earthy underpinning. Impressive persistence on the generous finish. The tannins are well proportioned. Still very young but superb potential. Very good (+). Reviewed March 11, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir $70. Barrel sample. Clones 115, 667, 777. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color. More tannic, loamy and savory than the other wines in the lineup. The well-hung core of dark fruit is brooding which is not surprising as this wine is typically slow to evolve. Big but not at all jammy. Develops increasing charm with time in the glass. Very good (+). Reviewed March 11, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Paul Lato “Lancelot” Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 75 cases, $75. · Paul tried to invoke his trademark elegance with this wine but it is still BIG. It is stacked and packed with blackberries, black raspberries, black plums, and cola, with a woodsy, toasty and grilled meat character. It is a formidable wine that lacks charm and is not open for business at present. Judgment is out on this one until the wine mellows some through bottle aging. Paul Lato unplugged. Reviewed March 11, 2010 ARTICLE »
2007 Paul Lato Sierra Madre Vineyard “Le Souvenir” Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay 14.1% alc., 75 cases, $48. Full MLF, aged in 66% new French oak, unfiltered. · Pear and vanillin scents are augmented with notes of yeast and smoke. A rich but not cumbersome wine with full-on flavors of pears, lemons and the faintest oak. Smoke shows up on the finish. The overall impression is a juicy wine that is vivid and bright. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 Paul Lato Wines “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc.,100 cases, $63. · Really lovely nose touting Bing cherries, forest floor, sandalwood and baking spices. Delicious midweighted cherry fruit with oak playing a supportive role in the background. Silky, vibrant and perfectly harmonious. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 Paul Lato Wines “Suerte” Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc., 150 cases, $68. · Sensual perfume of fresh crushed raspberries and blackberries with the slightest hint of oak. Gorgeous fruit accented with musk and cola and framed harmoniously by soft tannins and a spark of acidity. Pinot my paramour. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 Paul Lato Wines “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 14.7% alc.,125 cases, $73. · Deep, dark brooding nose showing aromas of black cherries, raspberries and white pepper. A distinctive wine with woodsy and earthy dark stone fruits that are both lush and mysterious. Deft touch of oak and admirable corralling of tannins. A hint of citrus shows up in the finish which is unbelievably persistent. This is a wine that comes at you, grabs hold and demands your attention. Screams for duck. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc., $60. · This vintage is more showy than 2005 and quite a striking wine. Lovely Pinot perfume of dark stone fruits, earth, mushroom, and truffle. Deliciously spiced black cherries with complimentary herbs. This lovely wine slides like silk over the palate. Elegant and seductive. Reviewed July 19, 2008 ARTICLE »
2006 Paul Lato “Suerte” Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.5% alc., $60. The Solomon Hills Vineyard is owned and farmed by the Miller family under the direction of vineyardist Greg Phelan. Paul proudly states on the back label, “For those who walk the walk.” · The aromas draw you in as you merrily sniff away. Crushed strawberries, spice, and even fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies waft from the glass. Great sweetness of red fruit highlighted by baking spices and brown sugar. The finish is long and tangy and the balance is spot on. Reviewed July 19, 2008 ARTICLE »
2006 Paul Lato “Sine Cera” Fiddlestix Vineyard Ste. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 14.7% alc., $65. Fiddlestix Vineyard consists of 97 acres of Pinot Noir of which the first plantings began in 1998. Located on the north side of a tight eastwest running valley, fog hangs over the vines until midmorning and the temperature barely rises above 75°F. The vineyard is farmed by Coastal Vineyard Care (Jeff Newton and Larry Finkle). Paul declassified 60% of the wine. · This wine is all about power with finesse. The Fiddlestix fruit can be foreboding, but Paul has tamed the beast beautifully. This wine is the “dark side” of Paul Lato. Very pleasing nose of black cherries and savory herbs. Great sweetness of dark red fruit which gets tastier and tastier in the glass over time. Powerful, yet very clean, pure and refreshing. This one has the bling without the weight. Reviewed July 19, 2008 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 Paul Lato "Duende" Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 75 cases, $50. · This wine has it all. Gorgeous perfume and fruit, long, stylish and smooth in the mouth, this Pinot Noir delivers the sensuality and charisma that Pinot Noir so often promises, but rarely surrenders. This is the work of a true artisan and artist. I did not meet one seasoned taster at the event who did not love this wine. I admit it, I went ‘gaga’ for this one. Reviewed March 5, 2007 ARTICLE »
2005 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 75 cases, $50. The Gold Coast Vineyard is owned and farmed by the Burk and Espinosa families and the vines are over sixteen years old. · Slightly lighter in color than the 2006 wines. Complex aromatic profile brimming with dark red fruits, brown sugar, spice, hay and barnyard. Black cherry driven with hints of anise and char. Lightly fruited on the palate and very feminine in presentation. Reviewed July 19, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Paul Lato “Duende” Gold Coast Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., $50. · Very elegantly composed featuring red cherry fruits with baking spices and cola. Soft in the mouth and imminently likable. Reviewed November 17, 2008 ARTICLE »
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