Dehlinger is one of those labels which has turned out consistently marvelous wines for close to 30 years, but with no marketing, a modest web presence and even lack of phone number on the label, only the most devoted followers have a clue.

Dehlinger Winery is located in the heart of its 45 acre vineyard on a ridge of red gravelly soil in Sonoma County's cool Russian River Valley. The alternating influences of California sun, and fog from the Pacific Ocean 13 miles to the West, create a hybrid climate favorable for hillside grape growing. Dehlinger was started by University California Davis trained enologist Tom Dehlinger with the planting of the initial 14 acres of vineyard in 1975. The first vintages were made from purchased Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel grapes from other Sonoma County vineyards. From the start, the emphasis has been on small amounts of hand-crafted, barrel-aged wines.

With the passage of time and the planting and maturing of all of available acreage, the focus is now entirely on Estate Grown wines. Annual production averages 7,000 cases. Wines produced are Estate Bottled Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. A portion of the grapes are sold to other wineries as well.

Dehlinger Winery is more interested in perfection of technique and the balance and intensity of flavors than in making large amounts of wine. Each small part of the vineyard is thinned, harvested and fermented as an individual in order to monitor the unique qualities of its wine. The growing techniques of pruning, canopy management, and thinning are adjusted to bring out the potential of each piece of soil. The entire vineyard has been retrained to a split-canopy, vertical shoot-positioned trellis system which allows for superior light penetration to the fruiting zone and systematic hand care of the vines.

Besides owner-operators Tom and Carole Dehlinger, the staff includes veteran vineyard manager Martin Hedlund and a year-round vineyard crew of five. Four to six additional vineyard workers are employed seasonally from bud break through harvest. Tom Klassen has the position of enologist. In June of 2008 daughters Carmen and Eva Dehlinger came back to Sonoma County to work at the family business: Carmen in customer service and sales, Eva in operations and planning.

Dehlinger Winery has a national reputation among wine connoisseurs that outstrips its physical size. Critical publications have consistently given strong reviews for close to thirty years. Wine writers have praised the winery for its uniqueness, quality, consistency and value. The winery engages in no expensive promotion or publicity so that prices remain reasonable. They do not offer on-site tasting.

Over three quarters of Dehlinger wines are sold through a mailing list, with small amounts placed in top restaurants and a few wine shops. Sign up for the mailing list on the website. 707-823-2378.