VOLUME 9, ISSUE 33
November 9, 2013
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Winemaker Ken Brown: Veteran Still On His Game Littorai: Balance & Harmony is Theme Dijon Clone 943: Early Reports Hahn Estates: Consistently Top Notch Mueller: Over 20 Years of Excellence in the Russian River Valley Sips of Recently Tasted Pinot Noir A Life Worth Living: Russian River Valley Original Charles Bacigalupi 1924-2013 Pinot Briefs Why You Like The Wines You Like
I was first exposed to a marvelous Pinot Noir fashioned by Eric Miller of Kokomo Winery at a Newcomers Focus Tasting offered at the 2009 Pinot Days in San Francisco (2006 Kokomo Wines Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast). This was one of the better Pinot Noirs in the seminar which offered many bright new stars in the Pinot game. Miller, a native of Kokomo, Indiana, studied at University of California at Davis and apprenticed at both Belvedere Winery and Amphora Winery. Along with his best friend and college roommate, Josh Bartels, and partner Randy Peters, a well-known winegrower, he launched Kokomo Winery in 2004 at Timber Crest Farms in Dry Creek Valley, Healdsburg. The Timber Crest Estate is also home to Amphora Winery, Papapietro Perry Winery, Peterson Winery and Family Wineries Tasting Room.
The Kokoma label logo sports a coastal Cypress tree, signifying Miller’s move to the West Coast from Indiana. The focus is on Dry Creek Valley, Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast fruit and single-vineyard bottlings. Multiple varietal wines are produced including whites (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc) and reds (Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah). Two Pinot Noirs are offered from Peters Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast AVA, and Windsor Oaks Vineyard in the Russian River Valley AVA.
Kokomo wines are sold online at www.kokomowines.com. The winery’s tasting room is incorporated into the winery cellar and is open daily from 11:00-4:30 at 4791 Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg. The phone is 707-433-0200.
Articles About Kokomo
2009 Kokomo Winery Windsor Oaks Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 199 cases, $36. This 250-acre vineyard is on the warmer eastern edge of the Russian River Valley. A blend of clones 114, 777 and 667. 25% whole cluster, native Burgundian yeast fermentation. Aged in 30% new French oak barrels. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose is very shy offering demure aromas of dark cherries, rose petal and stem. Ripe and sweet black cherry and red plum flavors with a slight roasted character. Soft tannins, juicy acidity on the finish and well-managed oak. Plain and seemingly watered down. Even more roasted character the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Decent. Reviewed January 11, 2012 ARTICLE »
2009 Kokomo Winery Gopher Hill Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 200 cases, $38. This vineyard is located where a former Gravenstein apple orchard stood, 10 miles from the Pacific Coast as the crow flies. Soils are Goldridge sandy loam. Clone 2A. Aged in 30% new French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromas of very ripe dark red berries, spice, brier and oak caramel. Medium weight flavors of sweet dark red cherries and berries with mushroom, green bean and citrus in the background. Soft and elegant on the palate with supple tannins, but doesn’t deliver a lot of flavor interest. Good. Reviewed January 11, 2012 ARTICLE »
2009 Kokomo Winery Peters Vineyard Winemaker’s Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 300 cases, $48. Pommard clone. 25% whole cluster, aged in French oak barrels. · Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose is rather nondescript, offering subtle scents of black plum and oak. Sweet, sappy and ripe dark red cherry and berry flavors with a hint of spice and raisin. More flavor interest, nuance and persistence than the Gopher Hill bottling. Unfolds slowly in the glass displaying admirable finesse. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Good (+). Reviewed January 11, 2012 ARTICLE »
2008 Kokomo Peters Vineyard Gopher Hill Block, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 160 cases, $38. Peters Vineyard was planted on Goldridge sandy loam soil in the early 1980s by Randy Peters. This wine is sourced from a block planted to Wädenswil clone. Aged in 30% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish-purple hue in the glass. Oak-kissed red fruit aromas initially, developing more fruit intensity over time in the glass revealing scents of cherry cobbler. A medium-weighted offering featuring a complex array of flavors including tasty red cherries and berries, Red Vines, earth, tea and leaf. Silky smooth with plenty of charm and delicacy. Good. Reviewed December 14, 2010 ARTICLE »
2008 Kokomo Peters Vineyard Winemaker’s Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 485 cases, $48. This wine is sourced from a block planted to Pommard clone. 25% whole cluster. Aged in 100% French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Toasty oak and spice-infused black cherry aromas really draw you in. A panoply of dark red Pinot fruits coat the mouth with subtle oak, spice and tar singing in the background. Without knowing this wine had whole cluster when I tasted, I picked up immediately on the spice and soft mouth feel that is characteristic of this mode of fermentation. For me, whole cluster, if done right, adds a whole other dimension to a wine. In addition, this wine has silky, soft tannins and complimentary acidity bringing you back for another sip. Reviewed December 14, 2010 ARTICLE »
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