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Evening Land Vineyards

Owner(s) Dorothy Cann Hamilton, Danny Meyer, Prieur Family, Mark Tarlov
Web site www.elvwines.com
 
Link to this site

When word got out that Dominque Lafon had started making Pinot Noir in Oregon, it created quite a buzz. He has signed on as the consulting winemaker for Evening Land Vineyards (ELV), a wine label started in 2005 by former attorney and producer and director in Hollywood, Mark Tarlov, along with partners Danny Meyer (Union Square Hospitality Group), the Prieur family of Domaine Jacques Prieur, and Dorothy Cann Hamilton, founder of the French Culinary Institute in New York City and CEO of the James Beard Foundation. The name Evening Land Vineyards was inspired by the lure of Homer's ideal garden. A wedding gift to Zeus, the Gardens of the Evening Land bear witness to the eternal magic of the perfect orchard located just beyond reach and under the golden glow of the Evening's setting sun.

Evening Land Vineyards owns two vineyards in California, Occidental Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast (the source of Kistler’s Cuvee Elizabeth before it was acquired by ELV) and Odyssey Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills. Pinot Noir from these two sites is crafted by veteran winemaker Sashi Moorman (Stolpman Vineyards) in Lompoc. Lafon declined to make Pinot Noir from California, claiming the wines were too extracted and high in alcohol. Instead, he consults with winemaker Isabelle Meunier on the Oregon Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs.

As widely reported in the wine press, Tarlov and his investment group signed a long term lease of Seven Springs Vineyard, a revered 100-acre Pinot Noir vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills appellation. Tarlov had been attempting to purchase the vineyard outright since 2004 without success. Seven Springs Vineyard was split by a divorce of the original owners of Seven Springs Vineyard in 2001 into Anden Vineyard, owned by Al McDonald, and Seven Springs Vineyard, owned by his former spouse, Joni Weatherspoon. When Joni died in 2003, her children took over ownership. The vineyard has been rechristened and unified as Seven Springs Vineyard under the ELV lease. Seven Springs Vineyard has been the source for Pinot Noir from several esteemed producers including Adelsheim, Bethel Heights, Cristom, Domaine Drouhin, Evasham Wood, Penner-Ash, Rex Hill, and St. Innocent. None of these wineries will continue to receive fruit after the 2008 vintage. St. Innocent will be the most affected as they source about a third of the fruit originating from Seven Springs Vineyard. Considerable investment by ELV is being directed at enlarging and improving the vineyard which has some phylloxera-damaged vines over twenty-five years old. A new trellising system and biodynamic strategies have been instituted.

Tarlov owns wineries in California, Oregon and France. The full-time winemaker at the winery in Salem, Oregon, Isabelle Meunier, previously worked at Le Clos Jordanne in Niagara, Canada, with former Oregon winemaker, Thomas Bachelder. Dominque Lafon consults. By 2010, production of Chardonnay, Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir was 7,200 cases, 44% of which was estate grown. The first wine, labeled ELV Celebration, was a Gamay Noir released in 2008. Two 2007 ELV Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noirs followed in 2009. By 2011, multiple Oregon and California bottlings followed including three wines from Seven Springs Vineyard in the 2009 vintage: Seven Springs Estate Pinot Noir, Seven Springs Estate "La Source" Pinot Noir, Seven Springs Estate Chardonnay "La Source."

The wines have a pricing based on a color coded system with a range from blue, silver, gold and white labels, with white being the most expensive at about $120 a bottle and blue the most expensive at about $35 a bottle.

The winemaker in California is Sasha Moorman and the winemaker in Beaune is Christophe Vial. Vial and Meunier are Lafon's proteges.

This new venture also features a partnership between several sommeliers and restaurant groups and ELV (Once). Some of the sommeliers will work with Dominque Lafon to produce special cuvees for their restaurants, including Daniel Bouloud’s Dinex Group and Jean-Georges Management in New York. Other sommeliers will partner with other winemakers of their choosing.

The Chardonnays from Oregon have set a benchmark for that state. To sign up for the mailing list, visit the website at www.elvwines.com. The phone is 707-320-9372. A Wine & Spirits Winery of the Year in 2009.

Reviewed Wines

2009 Evening Land Seven Springs Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.75% alc., pH 3.56, TA 0.54, 1,528 cases, $40. Own-rooted Pommard with some 114, 115 and 777. Planted in 1984, 1988, and 1993 to 1996. Volcanic basalt soils of the Jory series. 100% de-stemmed, indigenous fermentation, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Winemaker is Isabelle Meunier and consulting winemaker is Dominique Lafon. · Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Muted aromatically and slightly reduced initially, offering over time aromas of black cherries, smoky oak and humus. Medium-weighted mix of dark red and black berry and black cherry fruits backed by moderate grainy tannins, finishing with a spiced fruit, oak-marked finish. I rechecked the wine from a previously opened and re-corked the next day and two days later, and the wine become much more expressive over time, with brighter fruit aromas and flavors while still retaining a noticeable oak underpinning. Great potential here, but the wine needs more time in bottle. Very good. Reviewed November 2, 2011 ARTICLE »

2009 Evening Land Seven Springs Vineyard Summum Pinot Noir

13.75% alc., $120. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy fruit aromas with oak in the background. Savory and juicy cherry and berry fruit wrapped in supple tannins with a crisp finish. On the delicate side and approachable now, this is quintessential Oregon Pinot Noir that presently only hints at its full potential. Very good. Reviewed March 12, 2011 ARTICLE »

2008 Evening Land Vineyards Oregon Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., $25. Second vintage from a new Oregon and California producer. Sourced from Southern Oregon (50%), the Eola-Amity Hills (30%) and Dundee Hills (20%). Natural fermentation, 20% whole cluster. Noted Burgundy vigneron, Dominque Lafon, consults on the Oregon wines. · Dark reddish-purple in color. The shy dark red fruits are overshadowed by heavy oak toast and burnt caramel aromas. Juicy core of red and purple stone fruits and berries with a citrus underpinning. Full-bodied, fruit-driven and simple with supple tannins for easy daily drinking. Oregon fruit in a California style. Decent (+). Reviewed February 15, 2010 ARTICLE »

2008 Evening Land Vineyards Oregon Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., $25. Mostly Seven Springs Vineyard fruit. Consulting winemaker if Frenchman Dominque Lafon. · Moderately intense reddish-purple color in the glass. Dark fruits including plums and ollaliberries are featured on the nose with aromatic hints of spice, balsam and sawdust. Well-endowed with caressing fruit which persists on the finish. A California styled wine without all the alcohol. Good. Reviewed June 22, 2010 ARTICLE »

2008 Evening Land Seven Springs Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $35. From The Evening Land Vineyards, Salem, OR. · Aromas of dark cherries, wooded forest and oak. Charming cherry and raspberry fruit with a hint of oak-derived vanillin, smoke and grilled meats. The tannins are restrained and the fruit-packed finish lingers. Needs time to reach its full expression and allow the oak to integrate, but a solid wine that will shine. Very good. Reviewed August 7, 2010 ARTICLE »

2008 Evening Land Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $60. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy nose offering more oak than fruit. Mouth coating fruit with incredible intensity on the palate persisting on the explosive finish. Fine-grain tannins enrobe the vivid dark cherry and berry fruit, with a noticeable oak underpinning. The Evening Land Pinots all have a significant oak imprint. Very good. Reviewed March 12, 2011 ARTICLE »

2007 Evening Land Vineyards Seven Springs Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.38% alc., $40. The historic Seven Springs Vineyard was originally planted in 1984 in the Eola Hills with additions from 1993 to 1995, now spanning 65 acres. Clones are 114, 115, 777, Pommard and Wadenswil. Aged in 30% new French oak barrels. · This is a strange wine whose medium-weighted cherry and berry fruit is dominated by smoke and old wood on the nose and by an unpleasant oily flavor on the palate. Tasted three times over the past 6 months and discussed with the winemaker, Isabelle Meunier, who recommended giving the wine more time. Unsatisfactory. Reviewed November 29, 2009 ARTICLE »

2007 Evening Lands Vineyards Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Eola- Amity Hills Chardonnay

12.9% alc., $80. · Light gold color. Delicate aromas of pear, banana and a hint of oak which are echoed on the palate. Soft and velvety in the mouth with ample acidity. A white Burgundy styled wine that is reserved, yet quite enjoyable. One of the best Chardonnays I have sampled from Oregon. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »

2006 Evening Land Vineyards The Occidental Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., 120 cases, $150. 3.51 acres, 15 year-old vines, yield 1.28 tons per acre of Calera clone. This wine is crafted by Sashi Moorman in Lompoc. · Very dark reddish-purple color. A shy and brooding nose which starts out with woodsy and barnyard aromas but evolves nicely revealing bright fresh berries, violets and a hint of tobacco. Rich, plush and multilayered on the palate featuring dark stone fruits and flavors of fig and cola framed by a lively edge of acidity. The texture is pillowy and the finish, which has a citrus peel note, lasts and lasts. There still are substantial tannins to shed. Decant if you drink now and pair up with substantial food. This wine will cellar very well. Reviewed May 7, 2009 ARTICLE »