VOLUME 8, ISSUE 20
August 24, 2010
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Romancing the Dijon Clones Buena Vista: My House Red and White Lenné Estate: 2008s are Best Ever Domaine Drouhin Oregon: Burgundy’s First Footprint in Oregon Spätburgunder Robert Sinskey Vineyards Raiding the Library of the Pinot Carzina: Lane Tanner Pinot Noir, 1988-2007 LIOCO Winery: A Different Path Sta. Rita Hills: California’s Best AVA for Chardonnay? Sips of Pinot Noir Pinot Briefs Doctoring Wine for Optimum Drinking
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Windy Oaks Estate
Sometimes you come upon a winemaker (Ted Lemon comes to mind) and after you spend a little time with him or her, you just know they get it. Jim Schultze is in the same mold. He has a charming calm and trustworthy demeanor and his approach to wine is meticulous and well thought-out. You just get the feeling that his grapes are in good hands. If I was a Pinot Noir grape, I would like Jim to raise me and make me into a fine wine. Jim expresses his philosophy so succinctly: “I do the most I can in the vineyard and the least I can in the winery.” Jim and Judy Schultze are escapees from the high-tech world who have used their twenty years of interest and experience in artisan winemaking and winegrowing to create Windy Oaks Estate. The Burgundian varietals, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, are produced from a 15-acre vineyard located at 1,000 feet on a ridge overlooking the town of Corralitos and the Monterey Bay beyond. Viticulture and winemaking here is very Burgundy-themed. The vineyard is farmed according to sustainable, organic principles with all of the vines hand-tended and directly monitored for water status. The vineyard is mostly above the fog line. Summer is free of heat spikes with temperatures in the 70s and 40s at night. The site is extraordinary and yields physiologically ripe grapes without high brix and high natural acidity. Clones are 115,667, 777, 828, 2A and Pommard. Winemaking is noninterventional with no additives (ie enzymes, acid). Jim employs a 4 to 6 day cold soak and uses a basket press. Fermentations use 50% wild yeast and last 25-30 days. No racking is done once the wine is in barrel. The Schultzes travel yearly to Burgundy to meet with coopers. They use 3-year-old air dried tight grained French oak barrels and age their Pinot Noirs for 18-25 months with a high percentage of new oak (50% up to 75% in the Reserve). The modern estate winery is all gravity-driven. They use a state-of-the-art bottling line with minimal oxygen uptake yielding wines that go through little or no bottling shock. Windy Oaks Estate sells 85% of their wine directly to a mailing list. There is not a lot of wine to go around. I almost hesitate to rave about it. The Chardonnay is quite good also. Tasting is available periodically through special winery and appellation events. 831-786-9463. Articles About Windy Oaks Estate
Along the Pinot Trail: Pinot Days Southern California 2010 (8.9 1/22/2010)
California Chardonnay Tasting (7.25 9/5/2009) Magic in the Wines from Corralitos (6.39 9/10/2007) On a High at Pinot Paradise Weekend (6.21 4/1/2007) Pinot Paradise (7.16 4/18/2009) Pinot Paradise on Horizon (6.55 3/17/2008) Prince’s Excellent Adventure at WOPN (6.56 3/23/2008) Taste of the Sonoma Coast (7.6 11/17/2008) Tasting Santa Cruz Pinot Noirz (7.14 3/15/2009) Windy Oaks Estate Vineyards & Winery (8.5 11/13/2009) Reviewed Wines2007 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., 360 cases, $38. A blend of clones from the estate vineyard. Aged 16 months in 55% new French oak. · The nose is full of interest with scents of juicy cherries, spice, graham, herbs, oak and a hint of good funkiness. A whiff of alcohol peaks out. Earth-kissed dark red cherry and berry fruit flavors are on the light side but pleasing. Very polished and smooth with supple tannins creating some charming elegance. Decent (+). Reviewed November 13, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 Windy Oaks Estate One Acre Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 138 cases, $38. Sampled with lunch at the winery. This proved to be the top Chardonnay tasted during my week in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Barrel aged 18 months in 33% new French oak. · Bright, crisp and fresh with enough white stone and tropical fruit flavor to thoroughly satisfy. Barrel fermentation has contributed complimentary notes of butter, spice and vanillin. A little minerality creeps in on the finish. I have called this wine “a Kistlerkiller” in the past and I am sticking to my claim. Very good. Reviewed November 13, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 Windy Oaks Estate Limited Release 100% Whole Cluster Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., $55. Selection of 4 to 6 whole cluster barrels. Aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. · The fruit is darker-toned in this wine and more intense. Scents of plums and berries, oak toast, spice, and a little fecundity lead to a full palate of loamy black cherry and black raspberry fruit with underpinnings of dark chocolate and grilled meat. Perhaps “down and dirty” is a good descriptive. The tannins are fine-grained and dry, the oak is nicely partnered with the fruit, and the wine has the polished sensuality that drives Pinot lovers crazy. Very good. Reviewed November 13, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 13.9% alc., 435 cases, $38. 15 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · A softer nose highlighting red fruits, light toast spice and a touch of funk. The red-toned fruit flavors are brisk and refreshing, even a little steely. Very smooth in texture with no obtrusive oak or tannins. Surprisingly good with a pastrami sandwich. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Windy Oaks Estate One Acre Estate Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 13.9% alc., $38. Barrel fermented, aged a minimum of 15 months. Unfined and unfiltered. · Golden yellow, slightly hazy color. Alluring aromas of butter, grapefruit and beeswax. Penetrating flavors of white stone fruits with an echo of oak. The viscous mouth feel is very appealing and the aromatic finish is fruity and lengthy. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Windy Oaks Estate Henry’s Block Santa Cruz Mountains PInot Noir 13.9% alc., 145 cases, $45. Named after Judy Schultze’s father, this is 100% Wädenswil clone and from one of the oldest blocks in the vineyard. Aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. · A beautifully composed and balanced Pinot Noir featuring juicy raspberries, herbs, cedar and barnyard on the nose. The flavors follow in step adding a hint of dirt and root beer. Feminine in spirit but packed with flavor, and like all Windy Oaks wines, impeccably balanced. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2006 Windy Oaks Estate Wood Tank Fermented Limited Release Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 47 cases, $55. Aged 21 months in 75% new French oak. · Heavenly and complex nose with a classroom full of black cherry fruit, cola, and cardamon spice. Very flavorful darker red fruits with an underlying earthiness and a citric note on the finish. Not the intensity or punch of the Proprietor’s Reserve, but a perfectly fine drink. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 345 cases, $60. Primarily sourced from the 1.5 acre Bay Block planting of the original 3-acre vineyard. Aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. The signature Windy Oaks Estate wine. · This wine starts out shy and ends in ecstasy. Plenty of patience (foreplay) is required. The nose unfolds to reveal well spiced cherries, sage, vanillin and a touch of flowers. The fruit is demure but surrounds the tongue with fullness. Tangy and spicy with spot on balance. Always the best wine in the Windy Oaks cellar. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.1% alc., 345 cases, $60. Primarily sourced from the original 3-acre block of the vineyard. Aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. · The nose is quite refined with attractive cherry and berry aromas with a touch of oak, green herbs and barnyard. On the palate the wine is strikingly soft and smooth, refined and seamless, with discreetly concentrated fruit encased in caressing tannins. Flavors of currants, baking spice and savory herbs add interest. Very good. Reviewed November 13, 2009 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir Barrel sample. · WOW! Stunning aromatics of red and blue fruits. Plenty of spiced fruit on a soft and clean platform. Seamless. This one will bring you to your knees. Reviewed September 10, 2007 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Reserve Corralitos Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir Very sexy aromatics of strawberries and wild raspberries all dolled up with oak spice. Light on the palate, yet providing plenty of fruit pleasure and ending with refreshing acidity. Reviewed March 23, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Wood Fermented Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir Barrel sample. · More pepper in the nose and spicier on the finish. Soft and smooth as a baby’s bottom. Very unique and great in its own way. Reviewed September 10, 2007 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 285 cases, $35. The cuvée is a blend of clones from the estate vineyard, meant to be a wine that can be drunk every day with almost anything. Think of it as the younger sister of the Proprietor’s Reserve. · Oak char and smoke dominate the fruit aromas and a bit of heat peaks out over time in the glass. Slightly tart red and black berry fruit flavors are linear with barely noticeable tannins and lively acidity. Fairly plush and mouth filling but not exciting. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvee Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 285 cases, $35. A blend of 4 clones, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. · A dusty cherry nose leads off the show. Raspberry, strawberry, and pomegranate flavors star and a hint of gingerbread and herbs add interest. Oak adds appeal and support. Beautiful balance. Reviewed September 10, 2007 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvee Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 285 cases, $35. · A beautifully balanced Pinot with an attractive dusty cherry nose backed by a little barnyard and complimentary flavors of black cherries, pomegranate, spices, gingerbread and herbs. Oak adds interest and support. Everything is in proportion from oak tannin to acid to fruit intensity. Reviewed March 17, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Diane’s Block Klein Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 153 cases, $40. The Diane’s Block is the second vintage from this 4-acre vineyard in Aptos. · It has its own charm and distinctive character with racy mixed berry and black cherry fruit, a soft texture, ample acidity, and supple tannins. There is a lot of magic in the air in Corralitos. Reviewed April 1, 2007 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Limited Release Wood Tank Fermented Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 26 cases, $44. Aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. · Intensity is the key word here. Flamboyant black raspberry fruit aromas fill the glass. Juicy black berry jam flavors have subtle oak, chocolate, and marzipan overtones. Power to spare in the mouth ending in a lovely raspberry-infused aromatic kiss on the back end. There is notable oak present and a touch of heat peaks out but is not intrusive. Reviewed March 17, 2008 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Wood Tank Fermented Limited Release Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 26 cases, $44. · The nose is loaded with red fruits and exotic Indian spices. A middleweight wine with charming flavors of red cherries and strawberries with a touch of oak and brioche added in for interest. The wine builds in intensity and interest with time in the glass, leaving a memorable aromatic impression on the endless finish. Plenty of swag here. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2005 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., $55. · Shy nose that opens beautifully with time in the glass revealing black cherries and oak with a minerality in the background. A little darker fruit profile and noticeably fuller than the 2004 vintage, tasting of jam on toast with just the slightest hint of spice. Smooth as a baby’s bottom, perfectly balanced, with a lasting impression on the long finish that leaves a touch of heat in its wake. This one is more California, the 2004 vintage is more DRC. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
2005 Windy Oaks Estate Limited Release Burgundian Clones Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 40 cases, $95. This special half-acre block is tended exclusively by Jim. The clone, a rarely propagated French Pinot Noir clone, is not available in the United States. Aged 27 months in 100% new French oak. I have drank both the 2004 and 2005 versions of this wine and found both to be stunning. I do not have specific tasting notes since I enjoyed the wines with special friends at dinners. I do have fond memories of both wines, however, and can only say they rival the best Burgundies I have ever drank. As good as the other Windy Oaks Pinot Noirs are, this bottling is a step above, a tour de force. · Reviewed November 13, 2009 ARTICLE »
2004 Windy Oaks Estate One Acre Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 94 cases, $30. · A stunner. This is a Kistler-killer for half the price! Perfect balance with butter, caramel, and exotic fruit notes, and demure acidity. Reviewed April 1, 2007 ARTICLE »
![]() 2004 Windy Oaks Estate Diane’s Block Klein Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 153 cases, 2004 and 2005 sold out. This is the second vintage from this 4-acre vineyard in Aptos. · It has its own charm and distinctive character with racy mixed berry and black cherry fruit, a soft texture, ample acidity, and supple tannins. Reviewed September 10, 2007 ARTICLE »
2004 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 175 cases, $45, sold out. The Reserve is the winery’s signature wine. · This one will stand up to any wine produced in California and is everything you could hope for in a Pinot Noir. From classic Pinot aromatics of Bing cherry and spice, through elegant, sweet and vivid fruit with a caressing texture, to a lasting finale, this is one impressive drink. You won’t be able to get enough of this one. Reviewed September 10, 2007 ARTICLE »
2004 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 175 cases, $45. · The Reserve is the winery’s signature wine. This one will stand up to anything produced in California and is everything you could hope for in a Pinot Noir. From classic Pinot aromatics of Bing cherry and spice, through elegant, sweet and vivid fruit with a caressing texture, to a lasting finale, this is one impressive drink. You won’t be able to get enough of this one. Reviewed April 1, 2007 ARTICLE »
2004 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 175 cases, $45. · This is a “Wow” wine. Wonderful scents of spiced cherries, sandalwood, caramel and grass. The flavor trio of cherries, mocha and cinnamon spice are delicious. The whole package is impeccably balanced and elegant with an endless finish. A pretty and diaphanous wine that is tres Pinot. Reviewed March 15, 2009 ARTICLE »
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