Sips of Recently Tasted California Pinot Noir

2011 Anthill Farms Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., $44. Demuth Vineyard is located at 1,500 feet elevation above the town of Boonville and owned and farmed by Knez Winery. · Moderately light red in color. Aromas of strawberry, red cherry, clove spice and an imposing note of smoky oak. Oak-kissed dark red strawberry and raspberry flavors on a mid weight frame, with a finish of modest length. The delicate and juicy fruit is overwhelmed by the dark oak imprint. Score: 86

2011 Anthill Farms Abbey Harris Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., $48. Abbey Harris is a 2-acre vineyard located 1,100 feet above the town of Boonville and farmed by Dona Abbey and Dan Harris. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, slate and bark. Middleweight flavors of dark red cherry with an underpinning of humus and oak. Soft in the mouth with substantial tannins which tend to wrestle with the fruit. Reasonably good cherry-driven finish. This wine doesn’t currently deliver a message, but may surprise with more time in bottle. Score: 88

2011 Anthill Farms Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., $40. This vineyard has been farmed by Randy Peters for over 25 years. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromas of Bing cherries and spice lead to a rich, plush core of Bing cherry fruit with some blackberry and spice in the background. Soft in the mouth with sinewy tannins and a good cut of acidity, with a finish which of noteworthy lengthy. Score: 90

2011 Anthill Farms Comptche Ridge Vineyard Mendocino County Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., $44. This vineyard is located a few miles from the Mendocino coastline just north of the town of Navarro and is dryfarmed by the Weir family. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Enticing aromas of black cherry pie glaze, peat, potpourri, sea breeze and a touch of oak. Delicious marriage of black cherry and blackberry fruit with a compliment of spice and anise. A little earthiness grounds the wine which really attracts your attention with impressive depth of flavor and class. The tannins are nicely balanced, the acidity is harmonious, and the finish is fruit-filled and generous. Extraordinary in this very cool vintage. Score: 94

2011 Black Kite Kite’s Rest Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.57, 953 cases, $45. Aged 11 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely scented with aromas of cherry, ripe strawberry and spice rub. Mid weight tasty cherry core with undertones of strawberry and spice. Refined, elegant and on the lighter side in this vintage. Appealing for its crisp, juicy presence and finish. Holds up nicely over time in the glass. Score: 91

2010 Black Kite Angel Hawk Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.61, 114 cases, $80. The best and most age worthy barrels from the 2010 vintage. Aged 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish-purple robe in the glass. Complex and expressive nose featuring aromas of black cherry, blackberry, anise, cardamom, wine cave and toasty oak. Much riper than the 2011 release, big and rich but not overwrought, with juicy flavors of darker cherries and berries with inflections of cola, oak and spice. Impressive mid palate concentration, structural backbone and finishing power. A luxurious wine that will appeal to lovers of this hedonistic style of Pinot Noir. Because of the ripeness, a bit of heat shows up on the finish. Score: 90

2011 Black Kite Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.55, 273 cases, $55. Aged 11 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Muted aromas of black fruits, cooked beets, and floral perfume. Extravagantly rich with intense flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and black plum. A little earthy and beefy in character. Silky on the palate with balanced dry tannins and modest length on the dry finish. Solid, but not exciting now, and should benefit from further time in bottle. Score: 88

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Devil’s Gulch Vineyard Marin County Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.59, 217 cases, $58. Located in the far western reaches of Marin County, this vineyard is owned and farmed by Marin County viticulture pioneer Mark Pasternak who has been ranching in Nicasio since the early 1970s. Dijon clones are planted in a steep, terraced vineyard with shallow soils. Dijon clones. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of dark red and black fruits with a note of forest floor and cave cellar. Very tasty core of purple fruits including plum and boysenberry, offering good depth and intensity on the mid palate, and finishing long with a riff of electric and juicy red plum fruit. Needs some time in the cellar for the aromatics to arrive and the fruit to maximize its charm. Score: 92

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Azaya Ranch Vineyard Marin County Pinot Noir

13.5% alcl., pH 3.53, TA 0.60, 219 cases, $58. This vineyard is located in a cold, foggy valley in western Marin County. It was planted for the McEvoy family by Mark Pasternak on an ideal south and west facing hillside in Hicks Valley. The 18-acres contain clones 667, “828,” 115, 777 and 2A. This bottling has clone 667 and “828.” Aged 17 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with scents of black raspberry, Hoison sauce and dried herbs. Very plush and polished on the palate, with magnetic flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, plum and spice wrapped in fine-grain tannins and lively acidity. A marvelous wine with a memorable finish displaying great grip. The velvety texture alone is reason to clap. Score: 93

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Fox Den Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 383 cases, pH 3.56, TA 0.62, 383 cases, $58. This 8-acre vineyard is located at the far western edge of the Green Valley on Stoetz Ridge. Low vigor soil and tiny crop. Clones are 667, lesser amounts of 777 and a touch of 115. Aged 17 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Medium garnet color in the glass. Terrific nose that draws you into the glass with bright aromas of wild berries, black cherries, tea leaf and spice. Super-delicious and captivating, with layers of enticing flavors including black cherry, black raspberry, plum reduction sauce, vanilla and spice. The depth of flavor really sets this wine apart. The oak is complimentary, the mouth feel is creamy, and the lengthy finish offers a refreshing grip. A scintillating wine. Score: 95

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.57, TA 0.60, 503 cases, $72. This vineyard is located on a south-facing hillside above the town of Freestone at the far southwestern edge of the Russian River Valley only a few miles inland from Bodega Bay. A very cold climate very suited to Dijon clones. Yields are low with tiny berries and thick skins. Aged 17 months in 55% new French oak barrels. · Medium reddish-purple hue in the glass. Shy, but very lovely aromas of wild berry preserves, rose petals and spice. Delicious essence of blackberries and black plums with a wonderful spice presence which makes itself more known over time in the glass. An earthy, sous-bois underpinning adds interest. The svelte tannins are well balanced and there is admirable length to the finish. Still young and somewhat closed, but clearly an extraordinary wine. Score: 94

2011 Dutton-Goldfield McDougall Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 165 cases, $58 (wine club only). This site is a south-facing ridge close to the coast owned by Mac, Barbara and Rich McDougall. Planted in 1988 near Hirsch and Martinelli vineyards. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Complex nose offering aromas of dark red cherry, raspberry, iron-driven mineral, wild mint and redwood. On the palate, the wine delivers a rush of dark red cherry fruit with a wild, feral character and accents of spice and conifer. Very soft tannins make for easy drinking, and there is noticeable persistence on the cherry drop finish. Definitely better over time in the glass. Score: 92

2011 Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.8% alc., 300 cases, $70. Estate grown and bottled. Blocks 2, 13-17. Swan, Pommard, 114, 115 and 2A clones. Planted at 1400 feet in schist and shale soils. Yields 1.67 tons per acre. 25% whole cluster fermentation in 2-ton wooden fermenters. Aged 15 months in 25% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. The aromas veer to the lean side with notes of red cherry, cranberry, dried green herbs, and toasty oak. Light and delicate, even a bit austere, with demure flavors of red raspberry, red cherry, and strawberry. A green thread runs through the background. A pleasant, lacy wine which is easy to drink but is lacking in fruit ripeness. Score: 88

2011 Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge Estate Vineyard Block 11 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.0% alc., 42 cases, $75. Estate grown and bottled. Calera clone planted in schist and shale soils. Yields 1.25 tons per acre. 100% whole cluster · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose features dark red cherry and berry fruits with a green vegetal scent in the background. Moderately rich dark red and purple fruits with a hint of grilled Shitake mushroom and green herbs. The wine has bright underlying acidity and a rush of tannins on the cherry flavored finish. The tannins were still daunting one and two days after opening a bottle. Give this wine several years in the cellar for the tannins to soften and integrate, but I am afraid this will always be a tannic wine and the whole cluster induced greenness will never fade completely. Score: 86

2011 Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge Estate Vineyard Block 16 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

12.2% alc., 77 cases, $75. Estate grown and bottled. Wädenswil 1A clone planted in schist and shale soils. Yield 2.43 tons per acre. 100% whole cluster fermented in new 2-ton wood fermenters. Aged 17 months in one and two-year-old French oak barrels. · An intriguing wine with considerable nuance. Aromas of wild berries, whole cluster spice, wet fur and a little funky sous-bois. Welcome fullness on the palate with a very smooth mouth feel. Middleweight flavors of dark red cherries and raspberries and an earthy flora undertone are featured. The tannins are more tame in this wine which was very supple in the mouth and highly flavorful two days after opening the bottle. Hold this wine in your cellar for at least three years or decant a day ahead of time if you must drink it now. Score: 91

2011 Flowers Sea View Ridge Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., 300 cases, $65. Estate grown and bottled. Clones 777, “828,” 115, Pommard, Calera and Swan planted in schist, shale, basalt and sandstone at 1400 to 1800 feet elevation. Yield 1.7 tons per acre. 10% whole cluster. Aged 15 months in 30% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light ruby red color in the glass. Very delicate but pleasant aromas of black cherry syrup, rose petal and spice. Tasty mid weight mix of dark red cherries and berries, elegantly composed with a welcome lift from lively mineral-driven acidity on the finish. Silky and soft in the mouth with modest tannins. Very well crafted with admirable harmony and finishing grace. Score: 91

2011 Fogline Vineyards Floodgate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., pH 3.42, TA 0.68, 195 cases, $38. Released April 2013. From an established and respected vineyard located just off River Road in the Middle Reach of the Russian River Valley. Clones 667, 777, 115 and Pommard. Aged in 30% new French oak barrels. A commercial strain of malolactic bacteria is used to produce low biogenic amines in the finished wine. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Very aromatic upon opening with bright aromas of Bing cherry and spice. Oak tends to surface more prominently over time in the glass. The mid palate is lush with deep red cherry and cola flavor and noticeable oak in the background. Fruit-driven with impressive richness, this wine displays balanced firm tannins and a good cut of acidity on the finish which leaves some oak in its wake. Score: 88

2011 Fogline Vineyard Sun Chase Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.30, TA 0.70, 195cases, $42. Released October 2012. This 40- acre vineyard is situated at 900 to 1400 foot elevation on Sonoma Mountain in the Petaluma Gap region of the Sonoma Coast. Clones 667 and 777. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromatically alive with dark berry, spiced plum and wooded forest aromas. Well-endowed with prodigious black cherry, black currant, blackberry and blueberry fruits typical of 667 and 777, accented with a touch of spice. The tannins are muscular but well matched to the sappy fruit, and the lingering finish offers a pleasing riff of acidity. Somewhat brooding at this stage, this wine will benefit from further cellaring. Score: 89

2011 Gary Farrell Stiling Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.37, TA 0.62, 266 cases, $50. Release date February 2014. Owners Don and Barbara Stiling converted a 48-acre apple orchard to vineyards back in 1988. Goldridge soils, coastal fog intrusions. Field selection of Swan clone. Small crop and delayed harvest. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 13 months in 40% new French oak barrels. Racked and returned just once out of barrel before final blending and bottling. · Moderately light ruby red color in the glass. Lovely aromas of Bing cherries, red roses and oak spice. An elegant wine that speaks of the cool vintage with flavors of cherries, blueberries and plum with a hint of oak in the background. Silky and juicy with lively acidity, picking up some intensity over time in the glass. Not a powerful wine by any stretch, but some finishing vigor, very welcoming and easy to like. Score: 89

2011 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.58, 294 cases, $70. Release date February 2014. Sourced from several blocks in the 128-acre Rochioli Vineyard planted in 1974, 1995 and 2000. Very low crop size in this vintage due to delayed bud break and rain during the peak of flowering. 100% de-stemmed, 5-day cold soak, aged 13 months in 40% new French oak barrels. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of ripe dark cherries, cola and a hint of espresso. Light on its feet, even ephemeral in this vintage, with delicate flavors of black cherry, sassafras, cola and spice. Some intensity on the dry finish, but doesn’t deliver the punch that we have come to expect from this vineyard. Still, it is a very classy wine that could pick up intensity over time in the bottle. Kudos to the winemaker for bringing out the best the vineyard had to offer in this difficult vintage. Score: 90

2011 Gros Ventre Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., 176 cases, $48. Pommard 5 and Dijon 115. Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak barrels. · Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Aromas of cola, spice and smoky oak lead to a rich palate of plum and blackberry fruit robed in smoky, tobacco-laced oak. Full-bodied, fruity and earthy with supportive tannins and well integrated acidity. Although not particularly expressive now and showing too much oak sheen, this wine may integrate and surprise with further cellaring. Score: 87

2011 Gros Ventre Campbell Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., 110 cases, $54, sold out. Inaugural release from this vineyard located in Annapolis and managed by Ulises Valdez. Clones 115 and 777. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose becomes more expressive over time in the glass revealing aromas of dark berries, game, floral bouquet, and sweet mesquite smoke. Silky smooth on the palate with flowery black cherry, plum and spice flavors in a full-bodied style. The tannins are nicely balanced and the oak is well integrated. A slight vegetal undertone surfaces over time in the glass. Score: 88

2011 Gros Ventre Baranoff Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 97 cases, $48. This vineyard is farmed by Paul Sloan of Small Vines. A 3-acre parcel located in the Laguna de Santa Rosa in Sebastopol, the vineyard is planted to high-density 4’ x 4’ spacing of 7 clones. This wine is a blend of the 7 clones (Calera, Swan, 113, 115, 459, 667, 777). Unfined and unfiltered. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of black cherry liquor, cassis and bramble. Densely concentrated flavors of black cherries, black raspberries and cola with a bit of smoky oak showing up in the background and on the finish. Rather linear and bland now, the wine fails to reveal anything distinctive about its vineyard origins, but clearly shows its Russian River Valley origins. Revisit in 6 to 12 months. Score: 88

2011 Gros Ventre First Born Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 155 cases, $58. A noticeable leap up in quality among the wines of this vintage. This is the winery’s flagship cuvée which is a barrel selection of the best lots of the vintage. This wine is dominated by fruit from a vineyard perched at 1,000 feet above sea level along the true Sonoma Coast in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. · Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Magnetic aromas of dark red fruits, spice and seasoned oak. Discreetly concentrated black cherry, plum, cola, dried herbs and toasty oak flavors wrapped in ripe, svelte tannins. Impressive balance with noteworthy finishing length and intensity. Still young, but sends a message. Score: 92

2011 LIOCO Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.57, $50. This vineyard is located in the cooler deep end of the Anderson Valley. Sandy clay loam soil with fractured rock. Farmed by Bob and Claudia Klindt. Pommard, 115, 667 and 777 clones co-fermented with wild yeast. 30% whole cluster. Harvest Brix 22.4º. 18-day fermentation, aged 16 months in 20% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · The nose is exotic and intriguing, featuring aromas of dark red cherries and berries including strawberries, dried rose petals and Nutella spread. Two days later the wine had become even more aromatic, taking on notes of grilled mushrooms with intense scents of spice and bright red fruits. Flat-out delicious on the palate with layers of dark red cherry and berry flavors enhanced with a dollop of exotic spice and toasty oak. The sweet, sappy mid palate attack is attention-grabbing and the finish is fruity and generous. There is a firm backbone of tannin that should integrate with more time in the bottle. A special offering that should age beautifully. Score: 94

2011 LIOCO Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.64, $50. Mt. Eden, Pommard and 114 clones planted in the early 1980s at 1100 to 1400 feet 3.5 miles from the coast on the second ridge in calcerous seabed soils. Harvest Brix 22º. 40% whole cluster. 5-day cold soak, wild yeast fermentation lasting 21 days. Aged 16 months in 20% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Vigorous aromas of wild berries, balsam, forest floor and bark. Both fruity and savory on the palate with a discreetly concentrated core of raspberry, strawberry and blueberry fruits backed by firm tannins. Very silky on the palate with a delectable riff of berry fruit and herbal salad on the finish. Score: 90

2012 LIOCO Indica Mendocino County Rosé

12.0% alc., $17.95, screwcap. Sourced from a mid-century planting of dry-farmed and head-pruned Carignan in Mendocino’s Redwood Valley. Soils are red clay punctuated with fist-sized rocks. Berries were broke and whole cluster pressed to stainless steel tank. Fermented cool and finished bone dry. Long, slow malolactic fermentation. Gentle filtration. · Light pink-orange color and clear in the glass. Lovely aromas of strawberry, orange peel, rose water and yellow peach. Very refreshing with crisp flavors of watermelon, strawberry, and Mexican lime. Light on its feet with cleansing acidity on the finish which shows a lingering aroma of watermelon rind and lime juice. A superb domestic rosé that, when chilled, is a perfect accompaniment to smoked salmon or shellfish. Score: 89

2012 Loring Wine Company Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., $32, screwcap. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Welcoming aromas of Bing cherry, spice and oak cask which tend to fade a bit over time in the glass. Rich and juicy with plenty of sweet, sappy black cherry fruit accented with cola and peppery spice. A fruit-driven wine with well-integrated tannins that aims to please. Score: 87

2012 Loring Wine Company Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., $32, screwcap. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose veers to a very ripe and roasted fruit profile. The aromas include dark berries, sarsaparilla, raisin, spice and bark. Very well-endowed with sappy, dark berry, black cherry and black plum fruit with a hint of spice and dark chocolate. Despite its heft, the wine is polished with modest tannins. Sta. Rita Hills really shined in 2012. Score: 88

2012 Loring Wine Company Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., $32, screwcap. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Initially brooding, the nose comes alive over time in the glass offering effusive aromas of black berry and stone fruits, cardamom spice and a hint of toasty oak. Rich and luscious on the palate offering an intensely flavored essence of boysenberries with notes of black plums and other black fruits. The mouthfeel is creamy and the tannins are beautifully integrated. The fruit is the star in this wine, coating every nook and cranny in the mouth, and persisting with uncommon intensity on the big finish. A tremendous value. Score: 90

2012 Loring Wine Company Keefer Ranch Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $50, screwcap. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of red cherries and berries with hints of bramble, sandalwood and sous-bois. A tasty, moderately rich wine strutting an array of red fruits accented with spice, red licorice and hazelnut. Very soft tannins and easy to drink, but brings a bit of heat on the finish. Likable, but I believe this vineyard lends itself to earlier harvesting which can fully reveal the crispness that the vineyard is known and revered for. Score: 88

2012 Loring Wine Company Graham Family Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., $50, screwcap. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy but pleasing aromas of black cherries, black raspberries and oak bark. Vigorous with black cherry and cola flavor, even saucy and lush, with balanced tannins, a very smooth mouth feel, and a powerful display of Maraschino cherry on the flashy finish. Score: 90

2012 Loring Wine Company Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., $50, screwcap. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Slow to evolve on the nose, but eventually very enticing with scents of ollaliberry jam, black raspberries and baking spices. Full-bodied but streamlined, with a decadent core of dark red berry fruits. Smooth and bright with well-proportioned tannin and a complimentary oak sheen. The amazing finish is ridiculously long, returning over a minute for several encores. The longest finish of all the Loring wines in this vintage. Score: 93

2012 Loring Wine Company Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., $50, screwcap. · Moderately dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. This is the most seductive and elegant wine in the Loring lineup for 2012. Aromatically enticing with deep aromas of ripe red cherries, sarsaparilla and sandalwood. Very soft in the mouth with elegant tannins. A discreetly concentrated array of dark red fruits quite is pure and vivid. The fruit veers to the ripe side but never crosses over to the dark side. Score: 92

2012 Loring Wine Company Cargassachi Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., $50, screwcap. · Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Alluring perfume of fresh blackberry tart, currants and earthy flora. A killer on the palate with massive concentration of deep purple and black berry fruits (but not jammy), with a subtle underlying earthy, animale character. The tannins are reigned in and balanced, and the striking finish grabs hold and won’t let go. An unabashed, unapologetic, hedonistic wine of uncommon flamboyance. The expression of earthiness in this vineyard sets it apart. A great vintage for Cargassachi Vineyard. Score: 94

2012 Loring Wine Company Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $50, screwcap. · Dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. An intoxicating nose reveals exotic spices and fresh red and black berries, becoming more appealing over time in the glass. A big, rich pussycat of a wine with a sappy core of spiced black cherry, blueberry, and dark raspberry fruits. The tannins are well-matched and the finish, which throws a bit of heat, is powerful and generous. A big wine for this vineyard which is usually the most feminine of the Pisoni-Franscioni assembly of vineyards. Score: 90

2012 Loring Wine Company Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., $50, screwcap. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Very ripe fruited with aromas of black cherries, plums, and oak-driven vanilla and smoke. Rich, plush and decadent flavors of vanilla-infused black cherry cola with a touch of oak sheen. Highly approachable, with modest tannins and some finishing presence that leaves some oak in its wake. Very good for this style. Score: 89

2012 Loring Wine Company Russell Family Vineyard Paso Robles Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $50, screwcap. · Very dark purple color in the glass. Aromas of black raspberry, black currant, tar, cigar box and clay loam. Full-bodied with a load of very ripe, dark berry fruit. Big, big, big, almost syrupy with a velvety presence and a charge of oak on the finish. A brute of a Pinot Noir that lacks appeal. Score: 85

2012 Loring Wine Company Aubaine Vineyard San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., $50, screwcap. · Dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. Well-spiced black raspberry aromas hinting of whole cluster. Delicious and hedonistic, with full-bodied flavors of dark berries, black cherries, exotic spices and mocha. A huge wine that still has some grip and lift and is appealing for its tamed tannins and balanced composure. Score: 93

2011 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 650 cases, $65. Patz & Hall have worked with the fruit from this iconic vineyard since 1996. Several sections of the vineyard are planted exclusively for Patz & Hall including older plantings of the Hyde-Calera selection. Yields of only 1.5 tons per acre. Wild and cultured yeast fermentation aged in 65% new Burgundian French oak barrels. Bottled without fining or filtration. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Reluctant aromas of black cherry, dark berry, loam and bramble. Very smooth and velvety on the palate with moderately rich flavors of dark berries and plum, finishing with a touch of green herbs. The texture is very appealing but the flavors are not in a generous mode at this time. More refined than the Sonoma Coast bottling but more closed now. Revisit in 2 to 3 years. Score: 89

2012 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., $46. 25th vintage. Released September 2013. The core of fruit for this wine is from Gap’s Crown Vineyard. Grapes are also sourced from Dutton Ranch, the Martinelli family, Charlie Chenoweth and Steve Hill. Wild and cultured yeast, aged in 42% new Burgundian French oak barrels, bottled without fining or filtration. · Moderately dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. Vibrant aromas of raspberry and blackberry, spice and rose petal leap out of the glass, becoming more intense over time in the glass. Deeply flavored on the palate with an earth-kissed array of dark fruits, encased in muscular, but not harsh tannins. A consistently dependable bottling that delivers every year, especially in this phenomenal vintage. Score: 90

2011 Three Sticks Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.58, TA 0.65, 206 cases, $60. Released September 2013. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak barrels. $60. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Dark red cherry and berry aromas and flavors are featured in this wine with a marked oak vanillin accent. Modest in weight with fine-grain tannins, a soft mouth feel and admirable balance. Oak hovers over the finish. Score: 87

2011 Three Sticks “The James” Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.67, 163 cases, $60. Released September 2013. Sourced from Burning Creek and La Riconada vineyards. Aged 14 months in 67% new French oak puncheons. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Lovely black cherry and dark raspberry fruit highlight the nose that shows a marked oak presence. Delicious core of dark raspberry fruit, intensely flavored and nicely spiced. Oak also stands out on the palate. Balanced tannins and bright acidity are well matched to the fruit. Score: 88

2011 Tin Barn Ricci Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.38, 161 cases, $34. Released September 2013. This family owned vineyard is located on a south facing slope facing San Pablo Bay in a cook foggy area. 66% 777, 34% Pommard. Aged 14 months in 30% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Persistent aromas of black cherry, spice, dark chocolate and sweet smoke fill the glass. Very tasty core of black cherry and black raspberry fruits with accents of cola and brown spice including cinnamon. Oak highlights add a welcoming tone. Very uplifting and juicy despite the lower acidity. I liked this wine the more I tasted it. The wine definitely has a Carneros imprint with its darker fruit and earthy, mushroom tone. Score: 92

2012 Vaughn-Duffy Suacci Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 59 cases, $34. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely appointed nose with deep aromas of dark cherries and berries and baking spices. Middleweight flavors of boysenberry and plum with a touch of spice and tarry oak. Velvety smooth in the mouth with restrained tannins and a short, but enjoyable finish. Score: 89

2011 WesMar Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.0.% alc., $37. A blend of the three vineyard sources in this vintage. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Gorgeous aromatics featuring bright scents of blueberries, pomegranate juice, cherry, and whole cluster spice. The flavors echo the nose with plenty of Asian 5-spice compliment. The tannins are balanced and the finish has a good grip of refreshing acidity. A bit unusual for Russian River Valley in that the fruit veers to blueberries rather than black cherries, but spice lovers will relish this wine. Score: 91

2011 WesMar Salzgeber Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $42. · Aromatically inviting scents of black cherry, blueberry and exotic whole cluster spice. A gentle wine that is soft and velvety on the palate, offering modest fine-grain tannins and good supporting acidity. Reasonably good depth of dark red cherry and blueberry flavor with a welcome touch of spice. Needs time. Score: 89

2011 WesMar Oehlman Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., $40. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Hi-tone aromas of cherry, spice, BBQ sauce, sweet tobacco and grass you smoke. Delicious and bombastic on the palate with a luscious core of red cherry, strawberry, plum, hay and pumpkin spice flavors. Juicy, crisp and silky in the mouth with supple tannins, lively acidity, and an intense cherry-flavored finish. A flamboyant sucker that leads with a cherry theme. Score: 92

2011 WesMar Balletto Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., $40. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Intriguing aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, plum, dark rose petal and whole cluster spice. Discreetly concentrated flavors of darker cherries and berries and black plum which are long in the mouth. Substantial structural bones match up to the fruit nicely. Very satisfying, with a dramatic, drawn-out, Hollywood finish. The most tannin, the most concentration of fruit, and the biggest finish in the 2011 WesMar lineup, yet not as big a wine as the previous two vintages. I always seem partial to this Pommard clone offering. Score: 94

2010 W.H. Smith Maritime Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 382 cases, $54. A blend of several vineyards representing the best offering from the vintage. Aged 10 months in 100% new French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, toasty oak, sandalwood and campfire. Luscious oak-kissed red cherry core wrapped in sinewy, balanced tannins. Plenty of current drinking appeal with some finishing persistence. I am not a big fan of oak, but I could see how some might love the marriage of oak and fruit in this wine. Score: 88

2010 W.H. Smith Marimar Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $48. Sourced from Marimar Torres’ organic, 12-acre Dona Margarita Vineyard. Located only 6 miles from the Pacific Ocean between the towns of Freestone and Occidental in Western Sonoma County. High-density planting of 2,340 vines per acre. Clones are Pommard 667 and 115. Aged 9 months in 100% new French oak barrels. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose offers an array of red cherry and berry aromas with a little funkiness and earthy flora scent which reminds me why I love Pinot Noir. Smooth and elegant on the palate with nothing out of place. Mid weight flavors of dark red cherries and raspberries with a hint of peppery spice and complimentary oak. The tannins are reserved, the acidity is supportive and the wine is drinking beautifully now. This wine has the best integration of oak of the three wines tasted here. Score: 92

2010 W.H. Smith Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 226 cases, $48. This vineyard is owned and farmed by Gard and Lori Hellenthal and lies only 5 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. Clones are Pommard and 777. Extreme growing conditions were challenging in 2010. Aged 9 months in new and used French oak barrels. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of cherry, cranberry and smoky oak. Gentle and light in weight in this vintage, with delicate flavors of spiced cherry, red berries and oak-driven toast and smoke. Welcoming finesse with less tannin presence in this vintage and some finishing length. The wine showed more oak presence the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 88

2011 Williams Selyem Rochioli Riverblock Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., $79. · Medium reddish-purple hue in the glass. This wine veers to the ripe side with aromas of blackberry, black currant and spice, and flavors of darker cherry, berry, plum and tobacco-laced oak. Very easy to drink with a silky texture and gossamer tannins. Well-crafted with impeccable balance, but lacks some flavor intensity and inspiration. This vineyard performs best when the grapes reach full, very ripe maturity, but did not apparently in this cool vintage. Score: 87

2011 Williams Selyem Eastside Road Neighbors Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., $52. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Aromas of dark red berries, bramble, green herbs, geranium and earth. Medium weight flavors of dark red and black berries and silky smooth in the mouth with soft tannins. A little green, earthy flora riff is evident in the background. Noticeable finishing length. Score: 86

2011 Williams Selyem Calegari Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., $55. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Elevating aromas of Bing cherry, spice, toasted brioche and woodshed. Strikingly soft and ephemeral on the palate with juicy flavors of black cherry, cola and spice. Modest in concentration, with very supple tannins, and a pleasing finish of some length. Plenty of Pinot singing in this delightful wine. Score: 92

2011 Williams Selyem Foss Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% a;c., $55. This vineyard is located on Westside Road just north of Williams Selyem. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Dreamy nose that draws you into the glass with aromas of spiced Bing cherry, cola and dark red rose petals. Ambrosial flavors of black cherry, red and black raspberry and spice on a moderately rich frame with supple tannins and a silky, raspberry-infused finish of considerable persistence. Beautifully balanced and extremely soft and smooth on the palate. Quintessential Russian River Valley character but with a lighter, immensely appealing light footprint reflective of this vintage. Score: 94

2011 Williams Selyem Ferrington Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $65. · Moderately dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. This captivating wine really requires study to reveal all its many nuances. Aromas of blackberry, ollaliberry, spice box and toasty oak. Flavors are complex and varied, including earthy dark berries, tar, spice box including cinnamon, fennel, and seasoned oak. Sappy, with a noticeable mid palate grip and tenacity, and a long finish. Beautifully balanced for long term aging. Score: 93

2011 Williams Selyem Burt Williams’ Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $75. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose is filled with hi-tone strawberry, cherry and baking spice aromas. Vivid and flamboyant on the palate with discreetly concentrated and sappy flavors of dark red cherries and berries and a hint of spiced purple plum. An enchanting wine with a velvety mouth feel, balanced tannins, bright acidity, welcoming finesse, and an extremely long and intense finish that will leave you saying, “Oh man!” In my opinion, Williams Selyem’s best Pinot Noir. Burt’s legacy lives on in his vineyard. Score: 94

2011 Williams Selyem Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $75. · Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy but pleasing aromas of black cherry, spice and brioche picking up intensity and interest over time in the glass. A plethora of sweet, mouth coating black cherry and plum fruit is balanced by a good grip of acidity and muscular tannins. Plenty of cherry goodness on the generous, soprano finish. Inviting potential here, but this wine needs more time in the cellar. Score: 92

2011 Williams Selyem Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., $58. · Medium reddish-purple robe. Very shy nose with demure aromas of cherries and berries and a hint of spicy oak. Modest in weight but flavorful, with tastes of black cherry, black raspberry, dark chocolate and cola. The tannins are reigned-in and there is a delightful vein of underlying acidity bringing the wine to life. The finish is crisp and refreshing. Currently, the aromatics are lagging the flavors, but there is potential down the road. Score: 90

2010 Windy Oaks Estate Limited Release Wood Tank Fermented Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $55. Estate grown, produced and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fermented up to 8 weeks in French oak, one-ton, open fermentation tanks. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose is both complex and interesting, offering aromas of cherry, baking spice, mocha, and graham. Crisp on the mid palate with vigorous flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, and toasty oak, finishing with a long and juicy, oak-kissed cherry riff. Easy to like now. Score: 91

2010 Windy Oaks Estate Limited Release Wild Yeast Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $55 (wine club and tasting room only). Estate grown, produced and bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose draws you in with aromas of dark red cherry pie glaze, baking spices including nutmeg, graham, black oak and dried rose petals. An earthy wine with plentiful dark red cherry and berry flavor and a complimentary oak and leesy accent. Very well crafted with a silky presence and some finishing aplomb. Score: 90

2010 Windy Oaks Estate Proprietor’s Reserve Schultze Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $60 (wine club or tasting room only). The winery’s signature wine, primarily sourced from the 1.5-acre Bay Block of the original 3-acre planting. · Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Dark red cherries and berries and spice are featured on the precocious nose. Delicious core of mid weight dark red Bing cherry, blueberry and blackberry flavors accented with well-integrated oak-driven notes of vanilla and dark chocolate. More concentration and richness in this bottling, with more spirit, and a grand cru finish of extraordinary length. Score: 93

2010 B.R. Cohn Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.63, 2,400 cases, $40. 44% Lera’s and 56% Dutton vineyards. Clones 667, 777 and Pommard, average age 12 to 17 years. Whole berry and whole cluster fermentation with natural and inoculated yeasts. Aged 19 months in 64% new and 36% 1-year-old French oak barrels from several cooperages. Previously reviewed 9/29/13. · Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Aromatically alive with scents of strawberry preserve, cherry, vanilla and haunting oak. Mid weight flavors of ripe strawberry, black cherry, cola, mocha and sassafras with some toasty oak in the background. Very Caliesque in style with full-on extraction and generous oak treatment. The fruit is well balanced by firm tannins, the mouth feel is velvety, and the wine finishes with good intensity albeit showing a hint of heat. Score: 89

2007 D’Alphonso-Curran Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $55 (sold out at the winery, available discounted at retail). The partners have nearly 50 years of combined winemaking experience who prefer to age their wines before release. This is their current offering! 100% destemmed, 4-day cold soak before inoculation, macerated 23 days, aged in 100% new French oak barrels for 56 months before bottling. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose shows an aged bouquet with notes of cherry pit, root beer, cherrywood, old closet and leather. Ripe mid weight cherry and red berry flavors with hints of baking spice, tea, and dried herbs. Easy drinking with soft, yet firm tannins and a dry, drawn-out finish. An extended barrel aged wine that will appeal to fans of aged Pinot Noir. Score: 91

2011 Cutruzzola Vineyards Gloria San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., p;H 3.75, TA 0.63, 38 cases, $N/A. The Cutruzzola Riven Rock Vineyard is located 7 miles east of the town of Cambria on California’s Central Coast. 5 acres are planted to Pinot Noir including Pommard 5, 667, “828,” 115 and 23. Aged 10 months in 60% French oak barrels and 40% in stainless steel. · Moderately light red color in the glass. Welcoming aromas of red cherry, sandalwood and a hint of new oak. Elegant and supple on the palate, with modestly intense flavors of fresh red cherries and a hint of wood tar and spice in the background. The tannins are silky and the acidity adds enough verve for refreshing drinking. A very feminine, pleasing offering that is cozy and approachable. Score: 89

2011 Husch Nash Mill Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 26 cases, $38. A 4-acre vineyard located in the hills above Husch. The vineyard takes its name from the history of logging at the site. Jim Barr planted the 4-acre hillside vineyard in 2003 after adding a total of 150 tons of crushed limestone. 3 Dijon clones. · Moderately light reddish color in the glass. Aromas of red cherries swamped by oak. A very demure Pinot Noir with gentle flavors of red cherries and berries and oak under tow. A subtle green note is detectable in the background. The tannins threaten to drown the shallow fruit. The more I taste this wine, the less I like it although it retains some sneaky charm. Score: 86

2011 Kutch McDougall Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., 345 cases, $55. This vineyard is located 3.5 miles inland from the coast at 935 to 1,030 feet elevation. Clones are 114 and 115. Vine age is 15 years. Farmed by noted vineyardist Ulises Valdez. Hirsch Vineyard is on the next southern ridge. 50% whole cluster. Aged sur lie for 10 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Vibrant aromas of black cherries and whole cluster floral spice. Delicious core of well-ripened black cherries with complimentary spice and a very subtle green thread in the background, finishing with depth of fruit, juicy acidity and a rush of dry tannins. When tasted the following day from a previous opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had dramatically transformed. The wine had really come together, the green thread had disappeared, and the tannins had softened considerably. This will be a very enticing wine for whole cluster fans. I recommend aging this wine at least 2 to 3 years. Score: 93

2012 Laetitia Estate Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $25. The Laetitia Estate Vineyard is a coastal terrace 3 miles from the ocean. Soils are rocky clay loam with a volcanic ocean floor parent material. A blend of 10 clones including 113, 115, 459, 667, 777, “828,” Pommard 5, 2A, Martini 13 and Mt. Eden. Aged in 30% new and 70% neutral French oak barrels for 11 months. Estate grown, produced and bottled. · Moderate reddish-purple hue in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, plum, boysenberry, white pepper and spice box lead to a light weight core of fruit mimicking the aromas, with hints of spice, mocha and smoky oak. Mild tannins and very approachable, finishing on a light, fruity note. Score: 87

2011 Pisoni Pisoni Estate Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $70. · Moderately dark reddish-purple hue in the glass. Complex nose exhibiting an array of aromas including blackberries, spice, leather Prada coat, cigar box and smoky oak. Very approachable with modest tannins in this vintage offering well-endowed but not imposing flavors of black stone and berry fruits, with touches of spice, exotic dark chocolate, tobacco and oak. The fruit is simply gorgeous and perfectly ripened, and the pleasing finish is very generous. Still young and showing a shadow of oak which should integrate over time. A California treasure that is truly unique. Score: 93