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LIOCO Winery

Owner(s) Matt Licklider, Kevin O'Connor
Web site www.liocowine.com
 
Link to this site

Sommeliers know wine and understand how the components of wine can act in unison to compliment and enhance the experience of dining. They sense exactly the kind of wine that makes food sing. It is no surprise, then, that sommeliers have begun to launch their own labels, crafting wines that reflect their food sensitivities and their vast background in tasting fine wines. Many have establish close relationships with growers and winemakers through the years, making it comfortable for them to gain access to established expertise in the wine business. Some of the most notable sommeliers who have become winemakers include Rajat Parr of the Michael Mina Restaurant Group, John Lancaster of Boulevard Restaurant in San Francisco, and Kevin O'Connor of Spago Restaurant in Los Angeles.

O'Connor predates the current surge in sommelier winemakers, having made wine for years under the O’Connor label. Beginning with the 2005 vintage, he teamed with former North Berkeley Imports wine importer Matt Licklider to found the LIOCO label to produce vineyard-designate Pinot Noir along with stainless steel fermented vineyard-designate Chardonnay and a Carignan/Petite Sirah blend. LIOCO is a combination of the partner’s last names. O’Connor works closely with University of California Davis trained winemaker Kevin Kelley (Salinia, Heintz Vineyard) to produce non manipulated site-driven wines.The Chardonnays fermented in steel and the "barely naked" Pinot Noirs are a revelation. In 2006, Pinot Noirs were produced from the Hirsch Vineyard, Michaud Vineyard and Klindt Vineyard.

LIOCO is a “virtual” winery making wines at a facility in Santa Rosa. Production is 11,547 cases. LIOCO Wines are available on the website at www.lioco.com, at select restaurants, and fine retail wine stores. The winery business office is located at 11151 Missouri Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90025 and the phone is 310-717-1892.

Reviewed Wines

2008 LIOCO Sonoma County Chardonnay

13.5% alc., $20, screw cap. Fermented in stainless steel sur lie for 5 months, wild yeast, 100% MLF. · Straw color in the glass. Aromas of lemons, ocean air and brioche with a little funkiness that persists in the glass. The flavors trump the aromas with tasty baked apple, pear, dark toffee notes. Slightly creamy with bright acidity. Good. Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2008 LIOCO Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., pH 3.71, $35. Clones 115 and 667 from vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. 7-day cold soak, 20% whole cluster, wild yeast fermentation, aged 11 months in neutral oak, unfined and unfiltered. · Heavy scent of crushed black cherries and allspice. A bit tart and lean for my taste with a blast of citrus on the dry finish. Improves some over time in the glass and I would recommend pounding it in a decanter and drinking it with food. Decent. Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2008 LIOCO Graham Family Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

15.2% alc., $40, screw cap. · Penetrating and haunting aromas of red plum, red berries, violets and graham. Lip smacking hedonistic core of sweet red berries that are nicely spiced. The attack is impressive and the fruit is startling good. This is a perfect sipping wine, the fruit hanging around on the finish for at least half a minute. Very Caliesque and atypical for the LIOCO style. The alcohol is well-integrated and the wine was still drinking well the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle indicating spot on balance. Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Sonoma County Chardonnay

14.5% alc., $19, screw cap. Fermented in stainless steel with wild yeast, 100% MLF. Aged in tank sur lees for 5 months. Unfined and unfiltered. · Scents of apple, lemon, honey, yeast and popcorn. Luscious and full-flavored with fruit that seems to jump out in the mouth. The essence of Chardonnay with flavors of pears, honey, nutmeg and nuts. Smooth and perfectly balanced. Best value in California Chardonnay on the market. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Sonoma County Chardonnay

14.5% alc,, $20, screw cap. Fermented in stainless steel using wild yeast. Aged in tank 5 months on lees. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. · Pale yellow color with slight haze in the glass. Aromas of lemons, honey, yeast and popcorn. Luscious and full-flavored with bright crunchy fruit that jumps out of the glass. Accents of roasted nuts, pears, honey and nutmeg add interest. Smoothly textured with bright acidity. The essence of Chardonnay. Good (+). Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley Chardonnay

13.8% alc., 225 cases, $35. The Demuth Vineyard is situated at 1,600 feet above the floor of the Anderson Valley. Wente clone is own-rooted in 1982. Whole cluster pressed, cold fermentation in stainless steel with wild yeast, natural MLF. 6 months lees contact. Unfined and unfiltered. No oak. · Terrific aromatics flashing ripe pears, green apples, warm cookies and graham. The flavors are reminiscent of a warm apple tart, with hints of apricot and toast. Smooth and creamy with a lively citric acid lift on the back end. Fresh and very bright. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., pH 3.58, 225 cases, $35. Stressed Old Wente clone on original rootstock grown on rocky mountainous soil. Whole cluster pressed, cold fermented in stainless steel (no oak), wild yeast fermentation, 6 months sur lies, unfined and unfiltered. Demuth Vineyard was planted in shallow clay over fractured rock at 1,600 feet to the Wente clone on original rootstock in 1982. Daily temperature fluctuation at this site is 40 degrees. Harvest occurred 14 days later than the Anderson Valley floor. · Golden yellow color in the glass. Alluring aromas of lemon curd, ripe pears, and wet rocks. Very delicious flavors of poached pears, ripe citrus fruits including pineapple, and light caramel set off by an underlying minerality and a lively spark of acidity. Bright, vivid and a delight to drink especially at this moderate alcohol level. This is an exceptional vineyard and the wine shows it. I have tasted this wine multiple times at home and in restaurants and it is one of my favorites from California in this vintage. I have bought this wine for my personal cellar. A steal at this price point. Reviewed May 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.81, 160 cases, $35. Whole cluster pressed, cold fermented, no oak, wild yeast fermentation, natural MLF, aged 6 months sur lie in stainless steel, unfined and unfiltered. · Golden yellow color in the glass. Complex aromatic profile offering scents of crushed rock, papaya, lychee, petrol and smoke. Discreetly rich and slightly viscous with flavors of lemon peel, white peach, Asian pear and melon. The wine’s modest acidity reflects a warmer site. Very good. Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Sonoma Carneros Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 504 cases, $35. From a vineyard near the Napa/Sonoma border exposed to cool winds and fog from San Francisco Bay. 7-9-day cold soak, 16- day fermentation in open-top tanks, wild yeast, aged 12 months in neutral barrels, unfined and unfiltered. · Lovely perfume of plums, currants, spice and a whiff of oak. An impressive wine that captures the essence of dark stone fruits and grapes. I was captivated by the purity of this wine and the generous finish that lingered for over twenty-seconds. Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Sonoma Carneros Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 504 cases, $38. Harvest Brix 24.6º. 7-9-day cold soak, 16-day fermentation in open top tanks with wild yeast. Manual punch downs. Aged 12 months in neutral barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. Sourced from an unnamed vineyard near the Napa/Sonoma County line. · Profusion of plums, currants, oak and spice on the nose. Very tasty dark fruits that show impressive purity. A perfectly balanced wine that captures the essence of the fruit with a finish that lingers for at least 20 seconds. Crafted by a sommelier, it is not surprising that this is a superb food wine. Very impressive and one of the best wines and most reasonably priced Pinot Noirs I have had from Carneros in recent memory. Reviewed June 16, 2009 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Henni’s Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.74, 45 cases, $45. This vineyard is in a cool site in Green Valley, planted densely (4’ x 4’) on Goldridge soil. This wine is from the first harvest at this vineyard (“Virgin Vintage”). 7-day cold soak, long (19 days), cool wild yeast ferment in open-top tanks, manual punch downs, aged 12 months in once used oak barrels, unfined and unfiltered. · The aromas of berry tart, Asian 5-spice, and warm brioche really come at you from the start. Would make a very sensual perfume. Pure flavors of red berries and cherries, pomegranate, spice, and a subtle Concord grape note. Unencumbered by oak flavors and tannins, this wine is both exotic and erotic. Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.80, 265 cases, $45. Released in the winter 2009. Clones 115, 667, 777 and Pommard co-fermented, partial whole cluster fermentation, aged 12 months in 1, 2 and 3-year-old French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · Very appealing scent of gregariously spiced black cherries. Richly fruited but discreet, spotlighting black raspberry fruit. Very tasty, soft in the mouth with impeccable balance and a lively, lingering finish. The fruit really shows a vivid purity in this wine. Reviewed June 8, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.80, 265 cases, $45. A diverse mixture of clones. · Nicely nuanced nose showing aromas of black cherries, balsam, spice and melon. Tasty core of cherries and berries with a touch of spice, savory herbs, pine tar and savory herbs. Clean, smooth, nicely balanced, and opens smoothly over time in the glass. Very good (-). Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Michaud Vineyard Chalone Monterey County Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 346 cases, $45. Wild fermentation, 10-day cold soak, manual punch downs, aged 12 months in 1-, 2-, and 3-year-old French oak. Unfined and unfiltered. Sourced from a remote hilltop site at 1,600 feet in the Pinnacles National Monument. An extreme microclimate with daily temperature swings of 40 to 60 degrees. Granite and limestone soils. · Strong aromas of plums, tea, oak, smoke and ground savory. Juicy and concentrated black fruits with an earthy underpinning finishing with a tasty raspberry kiss. Better later in the day from an opened bottle.. A masculine Pinot that will stand up to hearty foods. Will have fans. Very good. Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »

2007 LIOCO Michaud Vineyard Chalone Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.77, 343 cases, $48. This vineyard is located at an elevation of 1,600 feet on granite and limestone soils. The climate is extreme, with 40 to 60 degree diurnal shifts, resulting in stressed vines. 10-day cold soak, aged 12 months in 1, 2, and 3- year-old oak barrels, unfined and unfiltered. · Deeply colored. Appealing, even ridiculously sensual aromas of warm cherry tart, tea, ground savory and dark roses. Flavors of loamy black cherries and berries, spice and grilled mushrooms. A sweet and sour thing is going on with the fruit. Silky and smooth with healthy ripe tannins yet a charming elegance. Amazing persistence of berry fruit on the generous finish. This wine will stand up to hearty foods. Very good (+). Reviewed August 24, 2010 ARTICLE »

2006 LIOCO Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 118 cases, $45. This hillside site is 11miles from the Pacific Ocean. Soils are sandy clay loam and fractured rock. Very cool climate. · This wine speaks of the soil. Aromas of earth, smoke, grilled mushrooms, plum reduction sauce and a faint whiff of alcohol. Very earthy and darkly fruited with delicious black raspberry jam bringing up the finish. Moderate tannins and bright acidity. Rustic but in a good way. Needs full-flavored dishes such as grilled lamb chops. Reviewed October 1, 2008 ARTICLE »

2006 LIOCO Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., 256 cases, $60. The Hirsch Vineyard is the defining Pinot Noir site of the Sonoma Coast. Located 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean at 1,100 to 1,400 feet on several ridge tops, the complex calcareous seabed soils provide a unique expression of Pinot Noir. This wine is from Mt Eden clone. · Oh Boy, put on your seat belts. Fairly modest in color, but delivering a transcendent drinking experience. The nose is brimming with fresh Bing cherry and cinnamon toast perfume. A refined style that is yet vigorous with flavors of dried cherries accented with toasty oak, savory herbs and spices. Elegant and silky, with gossamer tannins and admirable acidity. The balance is spot on. David Hirsch must be proud of this wine. Reviewed October 1, 2008 ARTICLE »