VOLUME 8, ISSUE 12
March 11, 2010
ARTICLES IN THIS ISSUE:
Clos Pepe: A Grape named Pinot, a Vigneron, a Facilitator, a Dead Head, a Dog named Bud, and a Horse named Charlemagne Whole Cluster Fermentation: A Wild Card Kalin Cellars: Courting Unami Carr Vineyards & Winery: Urban Winery with a Wine Country Soul Benziger Pinot Noir Program Now Shines On the Pinot Trail: Recent Winery Visits Newsworthy Headlines & Trends About Pinot Noir in 2009 Small Sips of Pinot VinAssure™ Wine Preservation System Wes Hagen Discusses Sta. Rita Hills Geology & Clos Pepe Vineyard
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LIOCO Winery
Sommeliers know wine and understand how the components of wine can act in unison to compliment and enhance the experience of dining. They sense exactly the kind of wine that makes food sing. It is no surprise, then, that sommeliers have begun to launch their own labels, crafting wines that reflect their food sensitivities and their vast background in tasting fine wines. Many have establish close relationships with growers and winemakers through the years, making it comfortable for them to gain access to established expertise in the wine business. Some of the most notable sommeliers who have become winemakers include Rajat Parr of the Michael Mina Restaurant Group, John Lancaster of Boulevard Restaurant in San Francisco, and Kevin O’Connor of Spago Restaurant in Los Angeles. Kevin O’Connor predates the current surge in sommelier winemakers, having made wine for years under the O’Connor label. Beginning with the 2005 vintage, he teamed with former North Berkeley Imports wine importer Matt Licklider to found the LIOCO label to produce vineyard-designate Pinot Noir along with stainless steel fermented vineyard-designate Chardonnay and a Carignan/Petite Sirah blend. LIOCO is a combination of the partner’s last names. O’Connor works closely with University of California Davis trained winemaker Kevin Kelley (Salinia, Heintz Vineyard) to produce non manipulated site-driven wines.The Chardonnays fermented in steel and the "barely naked" Pinot Noirs are a revelation. In 2006, Pinot Noirs were produced from the Hirsch Vineyard, Michaud Vineyard and Klindt Vineyard. LIOCO is a “virtual” winery making wines at a facility in Santa Rosa. Production is 11,547 cases. LIOCO Wines are available on the website at www.lioco.com, at select restaurants, and fine retail wine stores. The winery business office is located at 11151 Missouri Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90025 and the phone is 310-717-1892. Articles About LIOCO WineryReviewed Wines![]() 2007 LIOCO Sonoma County Chardonnay 14.5% alc., $19, screw cap. Fermented in stainless steelwith wild yeast, 100% MLF. Aged in tank sur lees for 5 months. Unfined and unfiltered. · Scents of apple, lemon, honey, yeast and popcorn. Luscious and full-flavored with fruit that seems to jump out in the mouth. The essence of Chardonnay with flavors of pears, honey, nutmeg and nuts. Smooth and perfectly balanced. Best value in California Chardonnay on the market. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
2007 LIOCO Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley Chardonnay 13.8% alc., 225 cases, $35. The Demuth Vineyard is situated at 1,600 feet above the floor of the Anderson Valley. Wente clone is own-rooted in 1982. Whole cluster pressed, cold fermentation in stainless steel with wild yeast, natural MLF. 6 months lees contact. Unfined and unfiltered. No oak. · Terrific aromatics flashing ripe pears, green apples, warm cookies and graham. The flavors are reminiscent of a warm apple tart, with hints of apricot and toast. Smooth and creamy with a lively citric acid lift on the back end. Fresh and very bright. Reviewed September 5, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 LIOCO Sonoma Carneros Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 504 cases, $38. Harvest Brix 24.6º. 7-9-day cold soak, 16-day fermentation in open top tanks with wild yeast. Manual punch downs. Aged 12 months in neutral barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. Sourced from an unnamed vineyard near the Napa/Sonoma County line. · Profusion of plums, currants, oak and spice on the nose. Very tasty dark fruits that show impressive purity. A perfectly balanced wine that captures the essence of the fruit with a finish that lingers for at least 20 seconds. Crafted by a sommelier, it is not surprising that this is a superb food wine. Very impressive and one of the best wines and most reasonably priced Pinot Noirs I have had from Carneros in recent memory. Reviewed June 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2007 LIOCO Michaud Vineyard Chalone Monterey County Pinot Noir 14.3% alc., 346 cases, $45. Wild fermentation, 10-day cold soak, manual punch downs, aged 12 months in 1-, 2-, and 3-year-old French oak. Unfined and unfiltered. Sourced from a remote hilltop site at 1,600 feet in the Pinnacles National Monument. An extreme microclimate with daily temperature swings of 40 to 60 degrees. Granite and limestone soils. · Strong aromas of plums, tea, oak, smoke and ground savory. Juicy and concentrated black fruits with an earthy underpinning finishing with a tasty raspberry kiss. Better later in the day from an opened bottle.. A masculine Pinot that will stand up to hearty foods. Will have fans. Very good. Reviewed December 16, 2009 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 Lioco Klindt Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 14.2% alc., 118 cases, $45. This hillside site is 11miles from the Pacific Ocean. Soils are sandy clay loam and fractured rock. Very cool climate. · This wine speaks of the soil. Aromas of earth, smoke, grilled mushrooms, plum reduction sauce and a faint whiff of alcohol. Very earthy and darkly fruited with delicious black raspberry jam bringing up the finish. Moderate tannins and bright acidity. Rustic but in a good way. Needs full-flavored dishes such as grilled lamb chops. Reviewed October 1, 2008 ARTICLE »
![]() 2006 LIOCO Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 14.8% alc., 256 cases, $60. The Hirsch Vineyard is the defining Pinot Noir site of the Sonoma Coast. Located 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean at 1,100 to 1,400 feet on several ridge tops, the complex calcareous seabed soils provide a unique expression of Pinot Noir. This wine is from Mt Eden clone. · Oh Boy, put on your seat belts. Fairly modest in color, but delivering a transcendent drinking experience. The nose is brimming with fresh Bing cherry and cinnamon toast perfume. A refined style that is yet vigorous with flavors of dried cherries accented with toasty oak, savory herbs and spices. Elegant and silky, with gossamer tannins and admirable acidity. The balance is spot on. David Hirsch must be proud of this wine. Reviewed October 1, 2008 ARTICLE »
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