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Sips of Recently Tasted Oregon Pinot Noir

The 2012 vintage in the Willamette Valley produced wines that generally are riper, more extracted, with more tannin and higher in alcohol than the past two cool vintages. Some writers have been critical, claiming the wines are more fruit-driven and California in style. I say, hey, that is what the vintage gave, and celebrate the glorious, opulent fruit flavors. Many of the wines will benefit from a year or two more in bottle.

Big Table Farm

2012 Big Table Farm Sunnyside Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 230 cases, $48. The owners of this vineyard have tended it for over 30 years. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Appealing initially, with bright aromas of berry jam, spice and subtle smoky oak, picking up appeal over time in the glass. A mid weight, glorious combination of plum and boysenberry fruits with a riff of smoke and anise. The fruit is ripe but not over ripe and definitely makes a statement. The texture is silky, the tannins are reserved, and the finish offers a good cut of citrus-driven acidity. This wine could use a little more time in bottle for the smoky oak to fully integrate. Score: 91-92

2012 Big Table Farm Cattrall Brothers Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 161 cases, $49. Tom and Bill Cattrall organically farm this vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. Own-rooted Wädenswil vines. Fermented 50% whole cluster. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose offers aromas of black cherry, Marionberry, briar patch and tobacco oak. Modest in concentration but highly flavorful, with a good tannic backbone and acid spine. The middleweight flavors of plum reduction sauce and berry preserves are somewhat sappy and accented with a tug of oak. The lip smacking good finish is riff with bright acidity. Score: 89-90

2012 Big Table Farm Wirtz Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 232 cases, $48. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Highly aromatic, with bright scents of fresh raspberry coulis, cherry sauce, spice and a bit of smoky oak. A lovely wine with character, displaying a discreetly concentrated core of black cherry and black raspberry fruit. Definitely ripe but not over ripe, with a complimentary accent of oak-driven anise and black tea. The finish is persistent and highly pleasing, driven by tart cherry acidity. Tasted the 16 following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, more floral and spice accents appear, and the soft, fine tannins make for a dreamy mouthfeel. Score: 92

2012 Big Table Farm Resonance Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., 326 cases, $48. Last vintage from this vineyard which was sold to Burgundy producer Louis Jadot in 2013. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is stunning, with an array of nuanced scents including plum, blackberry, black raspberry, sous-bois, exotic spices and bark. Mid weight plus core of well-ripened purple and black fruits, nicely spiced with well-integrated oak. Very fruity, slightly sweet and juicy, with a firm tannic backbone. Bigger, riper and sappier in this vintage as one would expect from a site in a warmer vintage. Evolves beautifully over time in the glass and is much better later in the day, offering a remarkably long grand cru finish. A memorable swan song. Score: 94



Broadley Vineyards

2011 Broadley Vineyards Claudia’s Choice Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., $50. Sourced from 7 acres of northeast-facing vines planted mid slope on the estate. · Light reddish purple color in the glass. Fruity aromas of red cherry, raspberry and strawberry. Light in weight with juicy cherry flavor dominated by smoky, tobacco oak. The oak simply overwhelms the delicate red fruit core. There is also a green, vegetal thread in the background. Very mild tannins and easy drink ability. Score: 86

2012 Broadley Vineyards Claudia’s Choice Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 350 cases, $50. Named after Broadley’s cofounder Claudia Broadley. From a section of the vineyard that ripens later and sets smaller clusters. Pommard and Wädenswil clones. 40% whole cluster. Wild yeast fermentation. Aged 14-18 months in 40% new French oak barrels. The wine is meant to display a big, complex character. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of plum and boysenberry lead to a full-bodied explosion of luscious purple and black fruit flavors spiced with Coca-Cola, and backed by husky tannins. A prodigious wine with serious extract and finishing power. Similar the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle with high extraction and healthy tannins. A distinctive style of wine that will benefit from some aging. Score: 88-89

2012 Broadley Vineyards Jessica Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 250 cases, $50. Named after Jessica Broadley, Morgan Broadley’s spouse and partner in Broadley Vineyards. Clones 667 and 115. 80% whole cluster. Wild yeast fermentation. Aged 14-18 months in 50% new French oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Plentiful fruit in this wine that offers scents of black cherry reduction sauce and blackberry jam, and intense, sappy flavors of purple and black fruits. There is a complimentary hint of spice and oak and a slight floral undertone from the whole cluster inclusion. The tannins are substantial but proportional to the fruit load creating balance. This wine is not for the timid, but it is nicely composed and will thoroughly satisfy those seeking out a full-throttle Pinot Noir with whole cluster embellishments. Score: 90-91



Croft Vineyards

2011 Croft Vineyards Savoir-Vivre! Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $35. Made from organically grown grapes. Croft Vineyards has grown grapes organically for over 30 years. This wine is made from grapes from some of the oldest vines. Produced and bottled by 720 Wine Cellars in Philomath. · Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Aromas of raspberry, Damson plum, peppery spices, stem and oak. Light to mid weight flavors of red cherry, red raspberry and red plum with a savory herbal thread in the background. Soft on the palate with mild fine-grained tannins, and a slightly tart, cherry-driven finish. Pleasant but not exceptional. Score: 88



de Lancellotti Family Vineyards

2012 de Lancellotti Onelia Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., $45. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy aromas of berries on the vine with a woodsy undertone. Delicious and super intense core of cherry and raspberry fruits, finishing with power and length. The fruit is complimented by a touch of oak vanillin. Slightly grippy tannins show up on the big finish. Plenty of Pinot singing in this wine. Needs bottle aging for the aromas to arrive. Score: 92



Domaine Drouhin Oregon

2011 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Édition Limitée Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 245 cases, $85. Estate grown. Mostly from a single block planted in 1998, with a little of a neighboring block planted in 1999. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of oak-kissed black cherry, sandalwood and baking spice. Very tight and not particularly gregarious, with a medium bodied core of black cherry, cranberry and raspberry fruits buried in oak and brutish tannins. A little more fruit and spice peeks out and the tannins are slightly softer the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Three days later, the opened wine is beginning to shine. This wine is built for the long-haul, and will not appeal if drunk now unless vigorously decanted. Score: 90-91



Durant Vineyards at Red Ridge

The Durants of Dayton, Oregon, are among the state’s pioneering winegrowers, having planted their first vines in the Willamette Valley in 1973. Today, Durant Vineyards encompasses 60 acres, and is a prime source of fruit for 14 wineries, such as Patricia Green Cellars, Lange Estate Winery, Joe Dobbes Wines, Owen Roe, Big Table Farm and Matello. The family also produces 3,000 cases per year of estate wine, crafted by six winemakers who are selected to feature each of the estate vineyard’s seven blocks. The innovator behind the operation is fourth-generation farmer, Paul Durant. In 2012, he cofounded the Oregon Chardonnay Symposium, oversees Durant Vineyards, and is the Master Miller for the family’s Oregon Olive Mill, the only estate olioteca in the Pacific Northwest. Both companies fall under the umbrella of Red Ridge Farms, a destination that includes a gourmet retail store, nursery, and on site accommodations. Visit www.redridgefarms.com.

2012 Durant Vineyards Bishop Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.67, 204 cases, $65. Bishop is one of the original 1973 blocks planted to Pommard clone with some own-rooted vines. The wine is vinified by winemaker Isabelle Dutarte. Harvest Brix 24.2º. Yields 0.75 tons per acre. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Brooding aromas of oak-dusted black fruits. Lovely purple stone and berry mid weight sappy fruits with a lush mid palate attack and a vivid and rich fruit-laden finish. A big wine for Oregon but the fruit is buffered by firm ripe tannins and is not daunting. Similar the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Give this wine some time for the aromas to arrive and the rich fruit to temper. Score: 91

2012 Durant Vineyards Olivia Grace Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., pH 3.61, 165 cases, $60. This block was planted in 2006 to Pommard clone and is named after one of Paul Durant’s two daughters. The wine was vinified by winemaker Chad Stock of Minimus Wines. 100% Pommard clone. Harvest Brix 22.5º, yield 1.5 tons per acre. · Although also made from Pommard clone, this wine is distinctly different from Bishop. The nose is extravagantly scented with aromas of cherry, rose petal, and spice. The fruit load is luscious and intense, but the tannins are more reserved, and this wine displays plenty of vibrancy and up front enjoyment. Two days later, when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, this wine had taken on added interest with seductive aromas of cherries and spice and a delicious array of red fruit flavors that spoke Pinot in character. Score: 92



Evesham Wood

2012 Evesham Wood Le Puits Sec Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $33. Made from organic grapes sustainably grown and non-irrigated. Unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Enchanting aromas of black cherry sauce, exotic spices, and Herbs de Provence. A captivating, very sexy nose. Soft and charming on the palate with a discretely concentrated core of spicecharged dark plum and black raspberry fruits. Beautifully balanced with enough tannic backbone to age, and a crazy long finish that really satisfies. This is a wine that stands out from the crowd. Score: 93



Le Cadeau Vineyard

2012 Le Cadeau Vineyard Merci Reserve Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 95 cases, $80. Release December 2014. The finest barrels from the vintage crafted in tiny quantity. Three heritage selections. Winemaker is Jim Sanders and growers and owners are Deb and Tom Mortimer. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Exotic aromas elevate the nose including black cherry, Asian 5-spice, incense and smoke. Full-bodied core of delicious spiced black cherry and blackberry flavors that are intense and persistent. There is plenty of smoky oak on board ala Henri Jayer. The mouthfeel is polished and the finish is a joyous celebration of fruit and lip smacking acidity. A very unique wine, but the oak plays too great a role for me personally. Score: 90



Matello Wines

2012 Matello Souris Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 275 cases, $42. · A tête de cuvée. Crafted from old, non-irrigated vines. Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely aromas of cherry tart, sandalwood and underbrush. Bright and juicy with light to mid weight flavors of cherry, raspberry and cranberry. Delicate and elegant, yet highly flavorful. Firm tannins buttress the fruit and bright acidity adds tension. The wine finishes with a pleasing grip of cherry fruit. Still appealing the following day from a previously opened and recorked bottle reflecting balance and predicting age ability. Score: 91



ROCO

2012 ROCO Wit’s End Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 250 cases, $42, screwcap. An estate vineyard planted to Dijon clones in sedimentary soil. Winemaker Rollin Soles. · Moderately light reddish purple hue in the glass. Nicely perfumed with hi-tone scents of fresh cherries, sousbois, spice and dried rose petals. The core of bright cherry fruit is flavorful and vivid, and complimented by a deft touch of oak. The tannins are well integrated and the highly pleasurable finish is long and full of Pinot goodness. Score: 91

2012 ROCO Private Stash No. 10 Wit’s End Vineyard Chehalem Mountains Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., 320 cases, $66, screwcap. · This wine is not as developed as the Wit’s End bottling but has more potential long term. Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very pretty aromas of dark red cherry, raspberry and spice box. Soft, smooth and silky on the palate with delicious flavors of juicy black cherry and a hint of red licorice. Very seductive, with supple tannins, a welcome hint of oak, and a good spark of refreshing acidity on the lasting finish. Tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was holding its own, predicting its long term potential. Score: 92-93



Shea Wine Cellars

2012 Shea Wine Cellars Shea Vineyard Block 7 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., $59. Wädenswil clone from the 5.2-acre non-irrigated Block 7, located on a steep, south-facing slope. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose picks up interest and intensity over time, offering aromas of black cherry, pomegranate, rose petal, mocha and sandalwood. An earthy undertone compliments the fat, plummy, black cherry and spice flavors which are accented with oak. Silky in texture, with firm tannins and juicy acidity. The wine is shy and lacks distinction at this stage. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and recorked bottle, the fruit was more expressive. I would check back in another year. Score: 88-89

2012 Shea Wine Cellars Shea Vineyard West Hill Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $59. Wädenswil, 777, 114 and Pommard clones. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, cherry leather and bramble lead to a middleweight, juicy wine featuring dark red and purple fruits. Fruity, with firm tannins and a noticeably silky mouth feel. Nicely balanced, but seems linear and very reserved. Re-tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was about the same. Score: 89-90

2012 Shea Wine Cellars Shea Vineyard Homer Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $79. A blend of the best barrels in the cellar. Dijon and Wädenswil clones. Aged in 68% new French oak. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is very shy and tight, opening slowly to reveal aromas of black cherry, blackberry and wooded forest. More body, more life and more finish in this wine. The array of dark stone and berry fruits sparkle, accented with interesting notes of spice and anise. A big, masculine wine with plenty of oak overlay and tannic vigor at this time. Slightly more charming the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Keep this one in the cellar for a couple of years. Score: 90-91



Soter Vineyards

2011 Soter Mineral Springs Estate Grown Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.6% alc., 540 cases, $85. A selection created only in a given vintage when something unique begs the spotlight. This is the fourth bottling of Mineral Springs Pinot Noir and is sourced primarily from Heirloom clones. 30% whole cluster fermentation. 30 days extended maceration. Aged 12 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Racked once for assembly before bottling. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Very pleasant nose with aromas of black raspberry and spice picking up intensity over time in the glass. Richly fruited with blackberry, plummy, and black currant flavors, with a touch of blueberry-pomegranate chiming in. Substantial, but not excessive tannins and a citrus-driven, bright finish. A high-collared wine of elegance and charm. Still highly aromatic and flavorful the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. This beauty will easily age another ten years. Score: 93



Westrey

2012 Westrey Justice Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $33. Winemakers Amy Wesselman and David Autrey. Unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. A little more oak than fruit on the nose now and a bit tight, offering aromas of black cherry, fennel, pine and smoky oak. A well-crafted, beautiful wine but the fruit flavors of dark cherry, blackberry and plum have not fully emerged. Well-structured and mid to full-bodied with a big fruit-driven finish. Soft and plush, but not overly fat on the palate. Give this wine at least another year in bottle for full enjoyment. Score: 90

2012 Westrey Cuvée 20 Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $49. 20th vintage. Sourced from 35-year-old dry-farmed vines. 25% “Coury clone” Abbey Ridge Vineyard and 75% Pommard clone Oracle Estate Vineyard. Unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Somewhat reticent, offering demure aromas of dark red berries, cherries and sous-bois. Delicious flavors of dark red fruits with the slightest oak adding a welcome accent. Fresh and juicy with good tension, balanced tannins, an intense mid palate attack, and a generous finish displaying a good cut of acidity. Tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was more savory and slightly gamey with a remarkably long finish. This wine should age effortlessly. Score: 91-92



Tyee Wine Cellars

2012 Tyee Wine Cellars Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 400 cases, $28. Released September 2014. From grapes grown exclusively in the family vineyard adjacent the winery. A combination of all plantings in the Estate Vineyard from vines 12 to 38 years old. 99 points and #1 wine Portland Monthly Oregon’s 50 Best Wines 2014. Merrilee Buchanan Benson is the winemaker. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of sous-bois, cherry, cranberry, raisin and a hint of oak. Light to mid weight flavors of dark cherries and purple berries with a hint of teaberry and savory herbs in the background. Silky on the palate with plenty of firm, dry tannins which tend to dominate the fruit at present. Very Oregonian in style and character. Score: 88-89


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