Father John Pinot Noir Flusters Burgundians
Father John is a boutique Pinot Noir producer from the Russian River Valley offering a single wine from
Oehlman Vineyard on Vine Hill Road just outside Graton. Proprietor and winemaker Nick Maloney is currently
living in Burgundy and finishing his studies at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, as well as working with Domaine
Rollin in Pernand Vergelesses.
The 2012 Father John Pinot Noir is currently the only American Pinot Noir to be found in multiple restaurants in
Nick strives to feature acidity and delicacy, not power or ripeness. Recently, Nick poured his 2012 Father John
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir at a blind tasting among vignerons from Pernand Vergelesses including
Domaine Rapet, Delarche, Marey, Denis, Francoise Jeanniard, Pavelot and Rollin. As everyone tried the
Farmer John Pinot Noir, no one could decide if it was old or new world. The crowd was puzzled, but approved
of the wine as no one spoke about its flaws. Mr. Rapet then spoke about it and said that it was a good wine
with absolutely no flaws, and the crowd seemed to agree with his statement.
When Nick’s boss, Remi Rollin, told everyone that it was a California Pinot Noir, everything changed! Many
vignerons started to grumble. They declared that the wine had multiple flaws including lack of acidity, over
ripeness, jammy fruit, and unbalance. Nick said, “I explained a bit about the wine and the small production, but
everyone was now a bit ticked off and didn’t like the wine anymore.”
Nick told me that the blind tasting proved the power of a product being rejected because of provenance or
competition, not on actual quality. Nick noted, “Burgundy winemakers believe that they are the only ones who
can really make fantastic Pinot Noir.” Ultimately, it proved to be a humorous event where opinions shifted
dramatically regarding wine quality when the provenance of the wine was unveiled.
Discover for yourself the quality of this Pinot Noir that I found superb. The wine is sold exclusively to
acclaimed restaurants and through a mailing list. Visit www.fatherjohnwinery.com. A white Burgundy will be released in early 2016 under the Father John label.
2012 Father John Oehlman Vineyard Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $55. Partially de-stemmed. Aged 11 months sur
lie in French oak barrels. Fined but not filtered.
reddish purple color in the glass. Effusive and persistent aromas of
cherry, cranberry, raspberry and spice. Silky and satisfying on the palate
with mid weight flavors of cherry, cranberry and pomegranate underlain
with a subtle savory herb, oak and citrus note in the background.
Admirable freshness, with juicy acidity, suave tannins, and a long cherry-driven
finish. A relatively demure interpretation of Russian River Valley Pinot
Noir that oozes pinotosity.