Recent Sips of Pinot Noir & A Few Whites

2013 Black Kite Angel Hawk Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., 190 cases, pH 3.56, TA 0.58, $85. Clones 114, 115 and Pommard. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Gorgeous label. The aromas leap from the glass, penetrating the olfactory senses with black cherry, blackberry, peat, citrus, cardamom and redwood timber scents. Luscious, but angelic on the palate, with mid weight plus flavors of black cherry and black raspberry fruits. A very sexy wine with a velvety mouthfeel, silky tannins, complimentary oak, and enough acid to energize the luscious fruit load. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, offering an incredible attack and finish and a just plain delicious drinking experience. A serious wine with intentions. Score: 94

2013 Black Kite Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.35, TA 0.74, 195 cases, $45. · Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A delightful, oak-infused, bold, full malolactic style of Chardonnay that offers an array of aromas including yellow apple, pear, lemon oil, spice, and toasty oak, and heady flavors of lemon, pineapple, apple, and toasty brioche. Slightly creamy, with discreet richness, finishing dry with oak-kissed, lemon drop goodness. Score: 92

2013 Black Kite Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.39, TA 0.64, 236 cases, $45. · Very light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Compared to the Soberanes Chardonnay, this wine is more mineral-driven with scents of salt air, green apple, and lemon meringue pie, reaching more intensity over time in the glass. Refined, crisp and refreshing, with plenty of apple, lemon and tangerine fruit flavors to satisfy. Very polished with admirable oak seasoning showing up as a touch of caramel. An excellent food wine that can also satisfy on its own. Score: 93

2012 CIRQ Treehouse Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.54, TA 0.60, $100. Winemaker and proprietor Michael Browne’s great grandfather, Reuban Warren Simonds, graces this label. He helped put on many circus shows across the U.S. during the 1930s and 1940s. Clones 23, Swan, 37, Pommard and Calera. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely, effusive aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla and spice. The wine offers a pleasant marriage of fruit oak and an enticing texture. Very soft and approachable, with mid weight layered flavors of black cherry, raspberry, Damsel plum, and boysenberry fruits. Excellent harmony with a lasting, berry-driven finish with a kiss of oak. Score: 93

2010 Clos De La Tech Domaine Lois Louise Cote Sud Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 190 cases, $62. Sourced from the Cote Sud block at Domaine Lois Louise Vineyard. The site is fully exposed and buffeted by strong maritime winds off the Pacific Ocean 8 miles to the West. Whole cluster fermentation, native yeast, foot crushed, unfiltered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Savory aromas of earth, tobacco leaf, bramble, and wine cave with a hint of black cherry. Full-bodied flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and black current with a touch of spice. Very ripe, but gorgeous fruit that is dense and somewhat brooding at this stage, backed by firm, well-proportioned tannins. The wine finishes with plenty of fruit goodness and slight astringency. Like Burgundy wines after it is fashioned, this wine should benefit from more time in the cellar. Score: 90-92

2010 Clos De La Tech Domaine Valeta Sunny Slope Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 190 cases, $62. Vineyard site is cold and windy situated at 2,350 feet above Silicon Valley. 30 acres with 3 acres planted to vines. Whole cluster fermentation, native yeast, foot crushed, unfiltered. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Somewhat vegetal on the nose reflecting the 100% whole cluster, with added notes of toasty oak and mulch. Mid weight dark red cherry and strawberry fruits with a touch of spice and sandalwood. More approachable than the Cote Sud with less fruit intensity and sap, more vibrant acidity, and showing somewhat aggressive tannins and generous sweet oak in the background. Again, this wine will benefit from further bottle aging. Score: 89-91

2010 Clos De La Tech Domaine Du Docteur Rodgers San Francisco Bay Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., 102 cases, $102. Sourced from a 1-acre hilltop vineyard in the town of Woodside at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very savory nose with aromas of bramble, conifer herbal oak, spearmint, and vanilla. Oak and tannins dominate this wine at present, which offers mid weight flavors of blackberry, black cherry and pomegranate fruits. The intense, long finish is the most striking feature of this wine. Hopefully, the wine will outgrow the green thread in the background resulting from the 100% whole cluster inclusion. When tasting the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the tannins had ameliorated, but the oak still overwhelmed the fruit. Check back in five years. Score: 88-90

2013 Cutruzzola Gloria San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.42, TA 0.59, 441 cases, $40. 10% whole cluster, inoculated fermentation with Assmannhausen and RC212 yeasts. Aged 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Welcoming nose alive with scents of boysenberry, raspberry and a hint of herbs. Light to mid weight flavors of cherry, raspberry and boysenberry with a touch of spice and oak seasoning. Very pleasant on the palate, with a suede texture, good acid tension, finishing dry with a slight grip of tannin. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 91

2012 Cutruzzola Riven Rock Vineyard San Luis Obispo County Riesling

12.5% alc., pH 3.05, TA 0.62, 440 cases, $22. A long, cool fermentation was stopped at 2.3% residual sugar to balance the pH. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Drinks like a dry wine with aromas and flavors of lemonlime (7-Up), blood orange, vanillin, petrol and rum cake. Moderately viscous with good supporting acidity. A California-styled Riesling. Score: 89

2013 Farmstead Long Meadow Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $29. Grapes were sourced from vineyards in Freestone. Primary fermentation in stainless steel followed by malolactic fermentation in neutral oak barrels. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting perfume of crushed berries, cherries, brown spices, herbs and sandalwood. Soft in the mouth, with a pleasing attack of cherry and raspberry fruits accented with notes of cola, sarsaparilla, and savory herbs. Commendable finesse and harmony, and easy to cozy up to. Score: 89

2013 Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

13.4% alc., 5,750 cases, $55. Estate grown from Freestone Vineyards. 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged 13 months in 100% French oak barrels and puncheons, 35% new and 65% 2-to-3-year-old. Unfiltered. · Light golden yellow color and slightly cloudy in the glass. Appealing aromas of lemon, petrichor, apple and a hint of buttery oak. Crisp flavors of green apple, lemon curd and complimentary oak seasoning framed by thirst-quenching acidity, finishing slightly tart and thoroughly dry with a lemon drop note. Score: 91

2012 Husch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $18. Small lot fermentation. Aged 9 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry pie glaze, dried herbs and tobacco lead to mid weight flavors of black cherry and boysenberry with modest oak seasoning. Soft tannins, and a juicy, tart cherry finish with decent cut. Score: 87

2013 Masút Vineyards & Winery Estate Vineyard Eagle Peak Mendocino County Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., 1,500 cases, $40. Higher alcohol do to a heat spike in September. 94% clone 115 and 6% clone 23. Whole berry de-stemmed into open-top fermenters for a 16 to 20-day fermentation. Aged 15 months sur lie in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely perfume of black cherries and cedary oak. Intense attack of mid weight black raspberry, ollaliberry and blackest cherry fruits back by a subtle tug of oak. Incredibly gorgeous fruit back by firm tannins that are tucked in. Soft and smooth in the mouth, finishing with impressive drive and length. Score: 92

2013 Masút Vineyards & Winery Two Barrel Eagle Peak Mendocino County Pinot Noir

15.1% alc., 50 cases, $60. Favorite two barrels of the vintage. 100% clone 115. Whole berry de-stemmed into open-top fermenters for a 20-day fermentation. Aged 15 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Hi-tone aromas of fruit basket, spice and bramble. On entry, the charge of blackest cherry, blackberry, and black raspberry is delicious. Bombastic, but still nimble and balanced with well-integrated fruit tannins, and a huge finish that takes intensity up a notch. More brooding than the Estate bottling at this stage, but exhibiting more potential. Score: 93

2013 Owen Roe The Kilmore Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $37. Clones are Pommard, Wädenswil and Dijon. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The scents of black cherry, spice box, cardamom and wine cave are alluring. Very attractive flavors of red and black cherries and a hint of strawberries. Juicy, with balanced and supple tannins and a cherry force that lingers on the finish. A superb forward-drinking wine that always delivers in every vintage. Score: 91

2013 Pali Wine Co. Summit Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

15.3% alc., 2,460 cases, $29, screwcap. Bent Rock, Radian, Rancho La Vina and Huber vineyards. Small lot fermentations. Aged 12 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry, spice, potpourri, smoke and toast. Tasty mid weight flavors of spiced black cherry with noticeable oak overlay. Intensely fruity, but still nimble and easy to drink. Score: 88

2013 Pali Wine Co. Huntington Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., 3,861 cases, $22.50, screwcap. Sourced from Lucas & Lewellyn, Bent Rock, Radian and Pence Ranch vineyards. Aged 12 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A cherry-driven wine with added notes of raspberry and cola in a middleweight style with well-integrated tannins. The fruit is luscious and very satisfying, finishing with some intensity. Oak shows up in the background over time in the glass. Score: 89

2013 Pali Wine Co. Bluffs Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 1,977 cases, $22.50, screwcap. Sourced from Windsor Oaks and Rockin’ B vineyards. Small lot fermentation. Aged 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. · Medium reddish purple hue in the glass. Brooding aromas of Bing cherry and dark red rose petal. The generous core of crushed cherry flavor is complimented by hints of Coca-Cola and spice. Somewhat jammy, with muscular fine-grain tannins that overwhelm the fruit. Score: 87

2014 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Rosé

13.2% alc., pH 3.25, RS 0.34, 1,500 cases, $20, screwcap. A blend of fruit from Merten and Dion vineyards, and saignée from Ponzi’s finest Pinot Noir lots. 100% de-stemmed, stainless steel tank fermentation, malolactic fermentation inhibited. · Moderately deep pink salmon color in the glass. Perfume of fresh strawberries, crushed cranberries and rose petal lead to pleasing flavors of strawberry, cherry and white stone fruits. The experience is like biting into a fresh, ripe strawberry. Clean and vivid, with balanced acidity and a dry finish. Score: 89

2014 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris

13.2% alc., pH 4.2, RS 0.57, 17,000 cases, $17, screwcap. Ponzi was one of the pioneers of this varietal, with first plantings in 1978. The wine is produced from certified sustainable Ponzi Aurora, Avellana and Estate Vineyards, as well as multiple other vineyards. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, malolactic fermentation prohibited. · Very light platinum gold and clear in the glass. Invigorating aromas of fresh apple, lychee, pear, marzipan and wet chalkboard. Clean, crisp and refreshing, with flavors of lemon oil, mango, pear and apple, finishing with a bright cut of acidity. A versatile wine that will enliven a variety of foods or satisfy on its own. Score: 89

2012 Premonition Cellars Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 123 cases, $29. · Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of timber, floral garden and vanilla cream lead to a modest core of sweet dark cherry liquor and blackberry jam flavors. Hints of green tea and cola are in the background. Very forward, with easy tannins, and a dry, cherry-driven finish which has some alcoholic warmth. Score: 85

2013 The Withers English Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.1% alc., 145 cases, $46. This vineyard in Occidental was planted in 2005. Clones include Vosne Romanee, 115 and 667. Fermented with 35% whole cluster and ambient yeasts at cool temperatures after a cold soak. Aged in about 15% new French oak barrels. Racked once before bottling, unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate cherry red color in the glass. Lovely perfume of whole cluster-inspired spice, bark and rose petal enhancing the fresh cherry fruit. Mid weight flavors of spiced cherry and sandalwood, with modest backing tannins and a juicy finish. Admirable smoothness on the palate and very harmonious. Score: 91

2013 The Withers Charles Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

13.7% alc., 300 cases, $44. Clones include Pommard, 115 and 667. Fermented with 35% whole cluster and ambient yeasts at cool temperature after a cold soak. About 15% new French oak barrels. Racked once before bottling, unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. This wine was rather brooding and bland with aggressive tannins upon opening, improving some in the glass, but really achieved expression two days after opened when tasted from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Fresh aromas of blackberry, black cherry and spice were followed on the palate with a ripe array of red cherry and berry flavors accented with spice and herbs, and framed by supportive fruit tannins. A remarkable transformation that proves again that Pinot Noir is an elusive challenge to evaluate. Decant this wine if you must pull the cork now. Score: 91

2013 The Withers Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., 13.3% alc., $42. This vineyard was planted in 1991 and 1996 on land that was previously an apple orchard. It is located southwest of Sebastopol. Clones are Pommard, 115 and 777. Fermented with 35% whole cluster and ambient yeasts at cool temperatures after a cold soak. Aged in 20% new French oak barrels. Racked once before bottling, unfined and unfiltered. · Moderate cherry red hue in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, cranberry and earth are echoed on the palate with an additional hint of cola and citrus. The tannins are well-matched and the finish is thirst-quenching. When tasted two days later from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the nose had become more earthy and herbal and the wine was soft and pleasant in the mouth with a cherry theme. A solid, but not exceptional wine. Score: 88

2013 Underwood Oregon Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $10. From Union Wine Co.. · Light cherry red color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry and potpourri hold up over time in the glass. Light to mid weight flavors of cherry, black raspberry, black tea and red licorice. An easy drinker with soft tannins that displays more than an ideal amount of oak overlay. Hard to complain at this price. Score: 86