Sips of White Wines Tasted Recently

2013 Balletto Russian River Valley Chardonnay

13.6% alc., pH 3.51, TA 0.55, 1,273 cases, $28. Estate grown and bottled. 65% Occidental Road, 18% Saxton Hill, and 17% Cider Ridge vineyards. Goldridge soils. Harvest Brix 21.7º-23.3º. 70% clone 17 (Robert Young Selection) and 30% Old Wente clone. Barrel fermented with lees stirring, 100% malolactic fermentation. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas of green apple, lime, lemon and buttery oak. Apple-driven flavors on the palate have good richness and are complimented by oak. The wine is pleasant, but lacks a little vibrancy and finishes a bit shallow. Score: 88

2013 CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., $25, screwcap. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Plenty of nuance to discover in this delightful wine that sports aromas of lemon curd, lemongrass, apple, and nutty oak. A crisp and vibrant style, with flavors of citrus, pear, white peach and kiwi, accented with the right amount of toasty brioche. Very sleek in the mouth with bracing acidity on the refreshing finish. A great value. Score: 91

2013 Dolin Malibu Estate Vineyard Malibu Coast Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.51, 136 cases, $39. First wine with Malibu Coast AVA designation. 900 vines are planted in volcanic soils in proximity to the Pacific Ocean. Barrel fermented and aged 13 months sur lie in 25% new French oak barrels. 100% malolactic fermentation. · Moderately light yellow color in the glass. The nose is clean and airy, with scents of lemon zest, crushed shells, and a hint of buttery oak. Very charming on the palate with bright flavors of white peach, citrus fruits and the slightest oak compliment. Very refined, with impeccable balance, and a pleasing cut of acidity creating a steely finish. I rarely use the word seductive for Chardonnay, but this wine brings that to mind. A great lobster wine. Score: 94

2014 Dutton Estate Kylie’s Cuvée Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc

13.9% alc., pH 3.25%, TA 0.68, 321 cases, $23. Named for second-born daughter. Sourced from Dutton Ranch’s “Shop Block” in Green Valley. Whole cluster pressed, slowly fermented in stainless steel and aged 3-4 months in neutral French oak barrels. No malolactic fermentation. Fined and filtered. · Very light platinum yellow color in the glass. Very nicely appointed nose with fragrant aromas of white peach, grapefruit and grilled pineapple. The flavors echo the aromas with a touch of lemon-lime and subtle grassiness typical of this varietal. Nicely composed with refreshing acidity that leads to a high pitched finish. Score: 91

2013 Dutton Estate Kyndell’s Reserve-Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.6% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.62, 993 cases, 1,150 cases, $39. Sourced from Vine Hill Ridge Vineyard. Whole cluster pressed, 100% malolactic fermentation, aged 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light yellow color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of lemon, apple and lychee lead to a creamy palate of apple, citrus, honey and blonde caramel flavors with a hint of slate in the background. A restrained, but very enjoyable style that exhibits exemplary balance. Score: 90

2013 Dutton Estate Dutton Palms Vineyard-Dutton Ranch Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 3.41, TA 0.63, 121 cases, 150 cases, $43. Vineyard is located in the coolest part of the Green Valley of Russian River Valley, and was planted from the Chardonnay clone (Dutton clone) Warren Dutton used in 1967 to plant the original “Shop Block” Chardonnay Vineyard at Dutton Ranch. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented, 100% natural malolactic fermentation, aged 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light golden straw color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of apple, lemon marmalade and banana. Juicy and crisp in the mouth, with flavors of ripe peach, lemon curd and subtle oak highlights. Very charming, with some finishing intensity and admirable balance. Score: 92

2013 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Selection Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.2% alc., pH 3.35, TA .68, 5,861 cases, $35. Released May 2015. Sourced from seven premium vineyards. Harvest Brix 22º-23º. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated with Montrachet yeast, fermented and aged in 100% French oak barrels, 40% new, for 8 months. · Light platinum yellow color in the glass. Aromas of citrus, pear and warm brioche lead to lush flavors of lemon, tropical citrus, dark caramel and crème brûlée. Slightly creamy on the palate with noticeable oak infusion, finishing crisp in the Gary Farrell style. Score: 89

2013 Gary Farrell Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay

13.8% alc., pH 3.35, TA 0.68, 5,881 cases, $55. Released May 2015. A blend from seven vineyards. Harvest Brix 22º-23º. Whole cluster pressed, inoculated with Montrachet yeast. Aged sur lie 8 months in 100% French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Very enticing aromas of lemon oil, pineapple, tropical fruits and a hint of new oak. Soft and smooth on the palate, yet enough vibrant acidity to bring the citrus, apple and pear fruits to life. Good richness and viscosity, with admirable integration of oak, and an uplifting finish fueled by bracing acidity. Score: 92

2013 Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Selection Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc

13.2% alc., pH 3.11, TA 0.64, 205 cases, $28. Release June 2015. Sourced from Ritchie Vineyard vines planted in 1972 to clone 1. Harvest Brix 22.0º. 80% fermented and aged in stainless steel and 20% fermented and aged in neutral French oak barrels. The final blend was aged 3 months on primary lees. · Light platinum color in the glass. Lovely and complex on the nose with aromas of pear, lemon, grilled pineapple, canned peach and apricot. Delicious on the palate with good grip, featuring flavors of pear and white stone fruits. A terrific wine that drinks effortlessly and finishes with silken acidity. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the most underrated and underpriced wines now produced in California. Check it out! Score: 92

2014 Harper Voit Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills Old Vine Riesling

12.7% alc., RS 13g/L, 85 cases, $30. Vines planted in 1970. · Very light golden yellow color in the glass. Complex and assertive nose featuring aromas of poached pear, grilled peach, marzipan, citrus, brioche and vanilla. A lovely wine that charms with its liveliness and freshness, featuring flavors of pear, peach, persimmon and even tropical fruits. More fruity than mineral driven and not the apparent acidity that expect from this varietal, but I love this peachy rendition. I don’t think I have ever experienced such an intense and amazingly long finish in a domestic Riesling. A very unique and special old vine treasure. Score: 94

2014 Harper Voit Surlie Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc

13.6% alc., 400 cases, $20. Sourced from Meredith Mitchell and Yamhill vineyards. Barrel fermented and aged on the lees. · Very light yellow color with a greenish tinge in the glass. Reserved, but fresh aromas of white peach and pear. A demure wine on the palate, but quite seductive, with flavors of pear and peach and perfectly supportive oak. Lees aging adds a very subtle yeasty component. Soft and slightly viscous in the mouth with a juicy finish. One of Oregon’s best examples of this varietal. Score: 90

2013 MacRostie Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.5% alc., 32,000 cases, $25, screwcap. A blend of grapes from multiple vineyards in the Sonoma Coast appellation. Full malolactic fermentation. 85% of the wine was aged in French oak barrels (20% new) for 6 months on the lees with occasional stirring, and 15% of the wine was aged in stainless steel. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Lovely aromas of ripe peach, Asian pear and lemon wafer. Bright, crisp and clean flavors of lemonlime with a lasting finish driven by citrus tang. Beautifully crafted with just a hint of oak adding interest. Score: 90

2013 MacRostie Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.2% alc., 521 cases, $32, screwcap. More than 70% of the grapes come from Matthew’s Station Vineyard planted by the Knude family and farmed today by the Dutton family. Robert Young clone. Some grapes from Mirabel and Wohler vineyards are mixed in. Harvest Brix 23.2º-24.5º. Whole cluster pressed, 85% malolactic fermentation. Aged 9 months on the lees in 100% French oak barrels, 18% new. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Inviting aromas of lemon oil, lemongrass and buttered brioche. Good fullness of citrus and pear flavor, yet vibrant, with a crisp and refreshing finish. A style that really satisfies. Score: 90

2013 MacRostie Sangiacomo Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay

14.6% alc., 291 cases, $44, screwcap. Vineyard is located in southern Sonoma Valley and planted on silty clay loam soils. Steve has worked with grapes from this vineyard since his first vintage at MacRostie in 1987. Harvest Brix 24.5º. Whole cluster pressed. Barrel fermented in about 17% new French oak barrels and aged on the lees for 10 months. 100% malolactic fermentation. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas of grilled lemon, brioche and caramel lead to a deliciously rich core of fresh citrus fruits including lemon and grapefruit. Very round with sound acidity, and inviting extract on the finish which has the slightest bit of warmth. Score: 91

2013 Patz & Hall Hudson Vineyard Napa Carneros Chardonnay

14.2% alc., 375 cases, $55. Released March 2015. Vineyard established by grower and horticulturist Lee Hudson in the 1980s. Sourced since 2005 from the same block that Hudson uses for own Chardonnay. Hudson-Wente selection (isolated by Lee Hudson). Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation, aged in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new, sur lie, with weekly stirring. 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel. Unfiltered. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. The nose is flat-out gorgeous, featuring hi-tone aromas of fresh lemon, pear and buttery brioche. Apple, citrus, pear and honey flavors arrive with aplomb leaving behind a vibrant citrus note on the bright and engaging finish. This is serious, classy juice that is refined, seamless, and nearly perfect in every way. WOW! Score: 96

2013 Patz & Hall Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.2% alc., $44. Released November 2014. This wine is made from some of the oldest Chardonnay plantings in western Sonoma County (first planted in 1969). A blend of California heritage clones and selections: Robert Young, Rued, Hyde-Wente, UCD 4 and Spring Mountain. Mostly dry-farmed. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation, aged in 100% French oak barrels, 38% new, sur lie, with weekly stirring. 100% malolactic fermentation in barrel. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Very inviting aromas of yellow peach, almond spread and lemon curd. Appealing richness and softness on the palate with lip-smacking flavors of yellow peach, lemon pie, and honey. Affable harmony, with good length on a finish that features a refreshing lemony, saline note. Score: 93

2012 Ramey Hyde Vineyard Napa Carneros Chardonnay

14.5% alc., 1,212 cases, $65. Released February 2015. Primarily Old Wente with some Robert Young field selections planted in 1991 and 1997. Harvest Brix 22.9º average. Whole cluster pressed, native yeast fermentation, full native malolactic fermentation in barrel with sur lies batonnâge. Aged 18 months in ! new Francois Frères French oak barrels. Fined and bottled unfiltered. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. A superb wine with bright aromas of lemon, grilled peach, brioche, and steely resolve. Intensely flavored, yet crisp and lively on the palate, with tastes of lemon, pineapple, peach, vanilla, caramel and spice. Beautifully composed and balanced, and a delight to drink. Hyde fruit is pretty much a guarantee of stunning Chardonnay. Score: 94

2013 Rexford Antle Vineyard Chalone Pinot Blanc

13.7% alc., 119 cases, $28, screwcap. Rocky soils laden with limestone. This 25-acre vineyard was planted in 1989 by legendary winegrower Dick Graff and is farmed organically today. It is one of the few places in California where authentic Pinot Blanc is grown. Harvest Brix 22.5º. Crushed and destemmed, then pressed immediately. Barrel fermented on the lees in 100% French oak barrels, 20% new. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of pear, peach, pineapple and honey. Soft and smooth in the mouth, with impressive intensity of flavor, including tastes of lemon, peach, yellow apple and cake spice. A thoroughly enjoyable wine, with impeccable balance, and unusual expression for Pinot Blanc. This wine brings back memories of the Pinot Blancs I treasured from Chalone many years ago. I don’t think there is an equal to this special varietal bottling currently produced in California. Score: 93

2013 Sojourn Campbell Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.67, TA 0.58, 175 cases, $45. Young and old vines planted to Old Wente clone. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented with native yeasts, 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged in 20% new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined. · Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. The charming nose is alive with scents of lemon cake, brioche and dried mango. Seamless on the palate, with inviting richness of lemon, grapefruit and white peach flavors that lead to a lively, crisp finish that begs another sip. Best Chardonnay yet from Sojourn. Score: 92

2013 Sonoma Collection Sonoma County District 3 Growers Reserve Sonoma County Chardonnay

13.7% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.65, $18.99, screwcap. An un-oaked Chardonnay produced from grapes picked at lower Brix. Whole cluster pressed, fermented cold in stainless steel. Aged on lees with no malolactic fermentation. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with scents of lemon wafer, pear and ocean air. Crisp, clean and very likable, with flavors of lemon-lime, pear, green apple, and a hint of tropical fruits typical of Malvasia Bianca. Classically styled and nicely balanced, this wine is enjoyable on its own but will make a rewarding food companion. A terrific value. Score: 91

2013 Talbott Kali Hart Monterey Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.56, $20, screwcap. Released December 1, 2014. 15% racked to French oak barrels (5% new) and aged 9 months · sur lie. Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Shy aromas of lemon, grapefruit, and lemongrass. A refined offering that is quite refreshing, with bright citrus flavors that bring a tang to the finish. Rather demure on the attack and finish, but easy going. Score: 88

2013 Talbott Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

14.7% alc., pH 3.32, TA 0.68, $42, screwcap. Released April 1, 2015. Estate grown in sand and gravelly soils with marine influences. The wine was made almost entirely from Old Wente clone grapes planted in 1972 from the prized South Block. Aged 10 months sur lie in 100% French oak barrels, 30% new. · Moderately light golden straw color in the glass. Reserved, but pleasing aromas of apple, grilled peach, and lemon cream pie. Very enticing on the palate with a somewhat creamy texture, and layers of flavor including yellow apple, peach, honey, and nutty toffee. Nicely balanced with a welcome mantle of subtle oak. The texture of this wine is very flattering. Score: 92

2013 Three Sticks Origin Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.66, 409 cases, $48. 28-day fermentation in concrete egg. Malolactic fermentation prohibited. Aged in stainless steel barrels for 12 months. · Moderate golden yellow color with a hint of copper in the glass. Complex array of scents including grilled lemon and pineapple, pear and honey. Bright flavors of grilled citrus, melon and pear in a rich, ripe, and intensely fruity style that is not bashful. A good cut of acidity on the finish counters the fruit load. Some will embrace the exuberance but I find it somewhat flaunting. Score: 88

2013 Three Sticks One Sky Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay

14.8% alc., pH 3.62, TA 0.64, 274 cases, $50. Old Wente selection. 23-day fermentation in French oak barrels. 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged 15 months sur lie with batonnage in 100% French oak barrels, 50% new. · Moderately dark golden straw color in the glass. Clean aromas of citrus, pear and white peach with an earthy note. Rich and ripe-fruited, with flavors of lemon, burnt toffee, banana, caramel and honey. Somewhat intriguing but atypical, with an intensely fruity finish that lacks a little verve along with a bit too much oak at play for my taste. That said, there are fans of this style of Chardonnay. Score: 88

2012 Wedell Cellars Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.29, TA 0.68, 90 cases, $50. Harvest Brix 24.6º. Whole cluster pressed and barrel fermented. 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged sur lie with batonnage in 100% French oak barrels, 25% new. Unfined and unfiltered. Bottle aged 10 months before release. · Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas of lychee, starfruit, grilled peach and brioche. Soft and creamy on the palate, with ripe flavors of white peach, lemon curd, caramel and crème brûlèe, along with a touch of toffee and toast. A somewhat rich, lush and fruity style with oak complements and soft acidity, but showing off impressive polish and some lemon-infused finishing interest. Tasted twice (one bottle was mildly oxidized: score based on best bottle). Score: 91

2012 Wedell Cellars Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.42, TA 0.74, 90 cases, $70. Unnamed vineyard. Whole cluster pressed, indigenous yeast barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged sur lie for 20 months, with batonnage twice monthly during the first 12 months. Unfined and unfiltered. · Deep yellow color with a tinge of orange in the glass. Aromas of cooked fruit, lemon oil, cream and roasted nuts. Moderately rich, with a core of melon, ripe peach, lemon, blood orange and honey flavors, finishing on a soprano note with lemon-driven acidity. The wine has a very ripe, slightly roasted tone. Tasted twice (one bottle was oxidized: score based on best bottle). Score: 86

2014 Willamette Valley Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris

13.9% alc., $16. Colmar clone planted in Jory and Missoula Flood soils. Harvest Brix 22.6º-24.7º. Cluster-thinned vines, whole cluster pressed, fermented cold in stainless steel on the primary lees with stirring twice a month. · Pale pink color in the glass. Aromas of cut apple, peach and yeast lead to a moderately rich palate of apple and pineapple fruits. Slightly creamy, with good balance, and some finishing fruit. A solid food wine. Score: 89