Athair: Pinot Noir With a Gaelic Twist
Athair is a collaboration between two winemakers, Tom Keith and Jim McMahon. Tom says he discovered
the Threshold of Heaven in Sonoma Valley in 1977. Through the years he raised a family and
made wine at home, garnering multiple medals for several varietals including Pinot Noir. After 34
years operating an international men’s apparel business, he decided to partner with his son-on-law,
Jim McMahon, to form Athair (the gaelic word for “father”). Jim’s winemaking career began at Kenwood
Winery in the Sonoma Valley where he developed a love for Pinot Noir and a familiarity with the
Pinot Noir vineyards of the Russian River Valley. He started as a laboratory technician and rose in the
ranks to assistant winemaker. After nine years at Kenwood, he moved to Luna Vineyards in the Napa
Valley as assistant winemaker where he is currently employed.. In 2004, he married Courtney, whose
father, Tom, became his business partner in Athair. Jim is the winemaker for Athair, while Tom handles
most of the marketing, sales, and winery grunt work.
The pair’s Irish heritage and strong family traditions are reflected in the name Athair. Jim chose the
name as a tribute to the fathers who have played such a profound role in his life. Jim says, “As you
pour your first glass, raise it in a toast in honor of your father.” Around Father’s Day this year, Athair
was giving 20% off on all wine purchases.
Jim’s winemaking is centered around patience. Like so many top Pinot Noir producers today, he realizes
that most of the work is done in the vineyard, and once the grapes reach the winery, the winemaking
process requires only prudent message and careful handling to bring out the sensuality of this
most delicate of grapes. Winemaking is traditional with minimal pumping and a single racking. The
wine is aged in 25% new and 75% neutral French oak. Jim says the aim of his wine crafting process is
to make a Pinot Noir “that will have a ten year shelf life.”
2005 Athair Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 600 cases, $35. This wine is composed
primarily of grapes from the Calegari Vineyard on Eastside Road in the Russian River Valley and the
Cleary Ranch Vineyard in Freestone. The way-cool silk-screened bottle is unique for California Pinot
Noir.
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I will get to the point: flat-out terrific. Aromas of cherry, rhubarb, toast and cola keep your nose in
the glass and flavors of cranberry, Bing cherry and vanilla keep you coming back for another sip. There is
deft use of oak and the texture is velveteen. Harmonious and complete, this is the stuff that Russian River
dreams are made of.
Athair wines (there is also a 2006 Chardonnay) are available from the website at
www.athairwine.com.
A number of fine restaurants in Sonoma County have this wine on their list. 707-732-6896. If you want
to put on a tasting and serve a benchmark example of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, this is the wine
to uncork. In 2006, there will be a Calegari Vineyard-designate Pinot Noir in addition to the Russian
River Valley bottling.
