2009 Pinot Noir Summit
The Seventh Annual Pinot Noir Shootout is a series of focused tastings by a diverse panel of experts and
included 270 Pinot Noirs from around the globe including Canada, Chile, France, Italy, Australia and New
Zealand. Stateside, California dominated the wine submissions, but some examples came from Oregon, New
York, Michigan and even Idaho. The Pinot Noir Summit is the final showdown, the culmination of the Pinot Noir
Shootout. During the series of Shootout tastings, only 32 wines are tasted by the judging panel daily (four
flights of eight wines each), allowing the judges to be completely immersed, focused and fair to the submitted
wines and eliminating palate fatigue as a factor. The wines are tasted blind without reference to origin,
appellation, vintage or price. At the Pinot Noir Summit, the judging panel’s top 44 wines are paraded blind for
the consumer and press attendees allowing them to compare their findings with the expert panel. The Pinot
Summit is the only wine competition in which judges’ conclusions are put to the test by an unbiased group of
wine lovers. In addition, the preferences of male and female judges and attendees are tabulated separately for
comparison. The two genders (not surprisingly) rarely agree on the best wines. The full results of this year’s
Pinot Noir Summit, held on Sunday, April 5 in San Rafael, California, are posted online at
www.affairsofthevine.com.
I blind tasted all 44 Pinot Noir finalists, powering through them in about two and a half hours. Because of the
time limitation, my tasting notes are succinct and my recommended wines are based on a brief glimpse of each
wine. I have put the wines in four groups according to my personal taste preferences: Excellent (would buy),
Good (might buy), Decent (would drink if someone else buys) and The Rest. Remember that these wines are
all finalists and represent technically sound wines that at least some members of the judging panel
recommended.
Excellent
2007 Artesa Winery Limited Release Carneros Pinot Noir
889 cases, $50. Winemaker
Dave Dobson crafted this wine but he has recently departed and has been replaced by Mark
Beringer, formerly of Duckhorn. This wine is composed of the most outstanding barrels in the
cellar and generally needs time to shed its tannins.
·
Deep dark reddish-purple color.
Appealing aromas of plums, currents and spice. Plush core of earth-kissed dark fruits and
sassafras with exotic spices. Less tannic than the 2006 version of this wine with a little more
lively acidity.
2006 Claiborne & Churchill Twin Creeks Edna Valley Pinot Noir
172 cases, $40, sold out. A family owned
winery founded in 1983 by Claiborne (Clay) Thompson and Fredericka Churchill Thompson and located in the
Edna Valley of California. This producer has gained renown for its Alsatian wine varieties including Riesling,
Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris but Pinot Noir has also become a signature wine. Look for the 2007 edition of
this wine which is sold through the Wine Club, Tasting Room and by phone order (805-544-4066). I also
sampled the 2007 Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($26) and it is a killer as well. The winemaker is Coby Parker-Garcia.
·
Lighter in color and body, this elegant wine has appealing aromas and flavors of red cherries, vanilla and spice.
Nothing out of place and no rough edges. Pinotypical.
2007 Cuvaison Estate Carneros Pinot Noir
5,557 cases, $30. Cuvaison
produces Pinot Noirs exclusively from its 400-acre vineyard in Carneros. The
winery has been owned by the Schmidheiny family of Switzerland since 1979. A
new winery devoted to Pinot Noir was built in Carneros and completed for the
2004 vintage. A tasting room on site is open by appointment. Steven Rogstad has
been the winemaker since 2001 and he has consistently produced masterful Pinot
Noirs. He also crafts the Cuvaison Block F5 Pinot Noir, a more intense expression
of the winery’s Carneros fruit. The wines are available on the website and widely
distributed.
·
Appealing mix of loamy and spiced cherry and berry aromas with
impeccable balance. The tannins are silky, the richness is evident but understated,
and the whole package drinks smoothly.
2006 David Bruce Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
10,854 cases, $42.
This historic winery now turns out 60,000 cases of wine a year but still manages to
produce consistently fine Pinot Noir sourced from multiple appellations throughout
California. Bonded in 1964, the winery uses a unique collaborative approach to
winemaking involving David Bruce, a team of winemakers headed by Mitri
Faravashi, vineyard manager Greg Stokes and the sales and marketing director.
The wines are widely distributed.
·
A very tasty wine that is black cherry-driven with
nicely appointed new oak spice running through. The tannins are fine-grained, the
mouth feel is satiny and the lengthy finish is embellished with lively acidity.
David Bruce is a California Pinot Noir icon. Unlike many physicians who enter wine at or near
retirement, Bruce jumped in when he graduated from Stanford Medical School. It was a
bottle of Richebourg from France that inspired him to buy 40 acres of land near Los Gatos,
California in 1961. He cleared the land by hand, built a small winery and planted 25 acres of
vineyards. He did double duty for 25 years, working in his dermatology practice in Santa
Clara and spending his free time making wine. He was influenced by Martin Ray, who was a
legend in the Santa Cruz Mountains winemaking community.
Bruce instituted many technological advances in California winemaking many of which were
learned from his trips to Burgundy. These included small barrel fermentation, whole berry
fermentation for red wines, use of French oak barrels, foot punch downs, extended
maceration and use of rotary presses. He was one of the first California winemakers to
produce a Blanc de Noir, a white Zinfandel and late harvest wines. He became well known
for his Petite Sirah.
Bruce's early work with Pinot Noir was fraught with difficulties (he called Pinot Noir the Dune
of winemaking referring to the science fiction novel) but he persisted and his Pinot Noirs
eventually earned him an international reputation. He was one of twelve California wineries
that participated in the 1976 Judgment of Paris.
For more historical information on David Bruce, consult The David Bruce Winery:
Experimentation, Dedication and Success (2002 interview), Regional Oral History Office, The
Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley at www.archive.org/details/davidbrucewinery00brucrich.
2006 Heart O’ The Mountain Estate Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
14.8%
alc., 500 cases, $48. This newer winery was extensively reviewed in the
PinotFile (Volume 7, Issue 14). I have tasted this wine blind twice and on two
other occasions with consistent findings. Available only at the winery through a
mailing list.
·
Dark stone fruits and strawberries are featured highlighted with
cinnamon spice and oak with a suave texture and nicely balanced t n’ a.
Beautifully harmonized.
2007 Jargon California Pinot Noir
30,000 cases, $10, screw cap. The price is not
a misprint. This was a surprising find at the Pinot Noir Summit. The representatives
who were pouring the wine were not well informed and the website doesn’t reveal
much information, but then, that is the whole idea behind this Pinot Noir. Just drink
it, don’t dissect it! The wine is one of 25 labels of Trinchero Wine Estates,
apparently from estate vineyards in Monterey and “the Delta.” This is an “anti-snob”
wine and the website, wwwjargonwines.com, encourages the use of plastic cups.
The name “Jargon” is a stab at the prevalence of pretentious wine-speak, a
condition the producers term “jargonitis.” The 2006 vintage is widely accessible in
retail stores and the 2007 vintage will be more available soon.
·
This is about as easy
going a Pinot Noir as you will ever find. Bright red fruits, juicy and delicious, with a soft and smooth mouth feel
and no tannins in sight. Not a nuanced wine and lacks complex aromas and flavors and a lengthy finish but it
is a lovable wine that is well-crafted. In simple jargon: a good drink.
2006 Laetitia Vineyard & Winery Reserve Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir
2,200
cases, $40. This is reliable Central Coast producer of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and
sparkling wine who has fared well in past Pinot Summit events. Available now from
the winery’s website.
·
Restrained but pleasant dark berry and cherry pie aromas with
a healthy core of well-spiced black cherry and blackberry fruit that fans out nicely on
the palate and finishes with persistence. Very user-friendly.
2006 Lucienne Lone Oak Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc.,
217 cases, $45. This is the high-end label from Hahn Estates in the Santa
Lucia Highlands (see feature later in this issue). This wine represents a special
selection from small blocks of Lone Oak Vineyard crafted by winemaker Paul
Clifton. Aged in 50% new French oak.
·
This beauty has a vibrant black cherry
fruitiness with interesting notes of coffee and leather. Very plush and velvety in
the mouth with a fresh, lively and lengthy finish. Evocative and very satisfying.
2005 Mayro-Murdick Estate Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 662 cases, $36. This
wine is crafted by Michael Cox who is also the winemaker at Schug Winery in
Carneros. A blend of 80% Iund Vineyard (30 year-old vines) and 20% Sangiacomo
Tailgrass Vineyard (15 year-old vines). Aged 15 months in 34% in new French oak.
·
Strawberry red in color. Pleasing aromas of black cherries, berries and grass. Demure
flavors of cherries, cranberries and a touch of toasty oak all in harmony with admirable
grip on the vibrant finish.
2006 Nth Degree Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir
500 cases, $36.95. The Nth Degree wines are
limited production handcrafted wines from Wente Vineyards. Fifth generation winemaker,
Karl D. Wente, creates these wines to reflect the terroir of Wente family’s Estate Vineyards.
The wines are allocated and sold primarily to wine club members with very limited restaurant
and retail availability. The Nth Degree Pinot Noir is 95% Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco, Monterey)
and 5% Barbera (Livermore Valley). The Pinot Noir was aged 16 months in a combination of
French, Eastern European and neutral oak. The Barbera was aged in stainless steel tank
(50%) and American oak (50%) for 3 months. Very cool looking package.
·
I love this wine
for its pinotypicity. Delicate dusty red fruits on the nose with a juicy cherry mouth filling
attack. Flavors of clove and cola add interest. The tannins are supple and the aromatic
finish is endless. I can’t say enough good things about this wine.
2007 Phillips Hill Winery Corby Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
350 cases,
$40. Proprietor and winemaker Toby Hill is making his mark in the Anderson Valley
with beautifully crafted and limited production vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs from
Mendocino County. Hill is an artist as well and his labels are very eye-catching. The
wines are sold through a mailing list wine club and the Phillips Hill tasting room in
Philo on Highway 128.
·
A thoroughly satisfying cherry-driven Pinot that is well-spiced,
lightly weighted, with perfect integration of tannins and acid. This wine really shows
off the bright and juicy Anderson Valley fruit that pinotphiles love to come home to.
2007 RN Estate Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 120 cases, $55. French immigrant Roger left a distinguished
career in the restaurant industry to start RN Estate in 2005 in
Paso Robles. He crafts a number of varieties including Pinot
Noir from Fiddlestix Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills and Maridel
Vineyard in Avila Valley. This wine is composed of Dijon clones
113, 115 and 667. It is aged 12 months in French oak. Nicolas
has a gifted touch with Pinot Noir and I have been an admirer
since the first release. The wines may be ordered online and are
distributed to fine wine shops and restaurants in California.
·
Floral
and confected dark red fruit aromas. Tasty sweet red plum and
black cherry flavors matched to toasty oak. Beautifully composed with healthy tannins and admirable restraint.
Drinkable now but will benefit from a year in the bottle.
2007 Seawind Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.0%
alc., 75 cases, $44. Owner and winemaker Ken Dunkley produces artisan Pinot Noirs
from bought fruit at CrushPad in San Francisco. Ken began making wine in 1976
while a student at University California Davis and has had a career in fermented foods
and drinks. He started his commercial wine venture in 2006 and has already won
awards in major wine competitions. Unfortunately he will not have access to this fruit
in future vintages. 100% de-stemmed, 25% whole berries, 4-day cold soak, aged in
25% Francois Freres oak barrels for 9 months. Unfined and unfiltered. Sold on the
website.
·
Moderately deep garnet color with a very slight cloudiness. Very sensual
aromatics featuring darker fruits and Asian spices. Lushly fruited, mouth filling plum
flavors.
2007 Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery Sonoma County Pinot Noir
27,287 cases,
$18. A Sonoma County Selection. Wide retail distribution.
·
Slightly cloudy. Lovely nose
of bright cherries and berries, sandalwood and stylish spice. Clean and balanced with
great purity of fruit, suavely textured, a deft touch of oak, finishing with commendable
grip. Amazing quality considering the sizable production level.
2005 Stag Hollow Winery & Vineyard Reserve Yamhill-Carlton District Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
170 cases, $39.95. A blend of 8 Pinot Noir clones. This small, family
winery was started in 1994 by Mark Huff and Jill Zarnowitz in Yamhill, Oregon. The 34-
acre estate is slowly being planted to vines on steep south-facing slopes of Willakenzie
soils at very high density, exceeding 3,000 vines per acre. There are nine clones of Pinot
Noir, including 5 Dijon clones. 10 acres of the estate have been designated as a wildlife
preserve. The Pinot Noirs have been quite distinctive and praiseworthy. This wine won a
Double Gold Medal at the Wine Press Northwest Judging in 2008. The wines are sold on
the website and through retail channels.
·
Dark ruby color. Enticing aromatic profile of
black cherries, plum, stems and cedar with a delicious and generous infusion of dark
fruited reduction sauce matched to tasty oak. Substantial chewy tannins portend a long life
ahead.
 
Good
2006 Bargetto Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
$25. One of the oldest wineries in the Santa Cruz
Mountains, established in 1933. This wine is available on the website.
·
Light garnet in color. Attractive aromas
of cherries and baking spice echoed in the flavors with a touch of savory herbs. The spectacular nose trumps
the flavors.
2006 Per Bacco Cellars Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $28. Sourced from Laetitia Vineyard.
Aged 12 months in 50% new French oak. Available on the website.
·
The nose draws you in with scents of bright
black cherries and brioche. A mid-weight wine with cherry cola flavors and a deft touch of toasty oak. The dry
tannins are caressing and the acidity is in step with the fruit.
2005 David Bruce Winery Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
$42. A very popular wine with both the
judging panel and attendees of the Pinot Summit. Winery (call) and retail availability.
·
Enticing aromas of dark
stone fruits nicely accented by spice and cola. Saucy red fruits saturate the mid-palate and dry tannins provide
a good backbone. The fruity finish teases but ends a bit short.
2005 Fort Ross Vineyard Estate Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., 513 cases, $49. Aged 11
months in 40% new French oak. Unfined and unfiltered. Website availability.
·
Very dark reddish-purple in color.
A big wine that attacks the senses with an onslaught of black cherry, baked plum, spice box and peppermint
aromas and prodigious dark fruits, clove and tar flavors. Still young and brooding. A little heat peaks out on the
finish.
2007 Left Edge Winery Bodega Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Unlabeled, unreleased. Crafted
by winemaker Anthony Austin who makes wine for a number of wineries including Sonoma Coast Vineyards
and Churchill Cellars. A favorite of attendees at the Pinot Summit.
·
Deep, dark reddish-violet color. A big
Caliesque wine with vigorous flavor and character featuring a dark fruit profile and notable oak throughout.
Very savory.
2005 Lions Pride El Molino High School Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
120 cases, $35. Crafted by Bob
Cabral from a small high school vineyard. A collaboration between the Russian River Valley Winegrowers
Foundation and El Molino High School. Available at www.rrvwfoundation.org.
·
An elegant and well-composed
wine of great charm. Complex aromatic profile featuring violets, roses and herbs with flavors of Bing cherries
and spice. No rough edges.
2006 Londer Vineyards Paraboll Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
524 cases, 14.9% alc., $54. A reserve blend
intended for the cellar. Aged 9 months in French oak. Winemaker is Rick Davis (Calstar). Available on the
website.
·
The nose is rather reserved with faint black fruit jam and herbal notes. Very tasty black cherry and
blackberry fruit with hints of cola and brown spice. Viscous and very smoothly textured.
2005 Orentano Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
430 cases, $40. Winemaker is Jay Buoncristiani.
Check Buoncristiani Wine for availability.
·
Aromas of berry and cherry compote laced with vanilla and cream.
Plush and fruit-driven flavors with a soft pillowy texture and a short finish.
2007 Schug Winery Carneros Pinot Noir
7,387 cases, $28. This wine is sold on the website.
·
Enticing
scents of Bing cherries, strawberries, and cedary oak. Decent core of red fruits kissed by savory herbs. Plush
in the mouth and velvety in texture.
2007 Spy Valley Marlborough New Zealand Pinot Noir
10,000 cases, $29.99. Imported to the U.S. by
Broadbent Selections, Inc., San Francisco.
·
The dark side of Pinot Noir. Intense aromas of crushed plums and
grapes. Plenty of sweet purple fruit and well-managed dry tannins.
2006 TR Elliott Three Plumes Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 315 cases, $38. Sourced from
Hallberg Vineyard and O’Connell Vineyard. Clones 115 (80%), 777 (10%), Elite (5%) and Pommard (5%).
Unfined and unfiltered. Another bottling, Queste, is sourced entirely from Hallberg Vineyard, contains
significantly more Pommard and is quite good as well. The wines are available on the website.
·
Wonderful
aromatics typical of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir featuring Queen Anne cherries, strawberries, baking spices
and a touch of oak. Red fruits are flanked by earth, mocha and tobacco notes with well balanced tannins and
acidity. Quite enjoyable.
Decent
The Rest
2006 Adobe Road Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 1,350 cases, $39.
2006 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 1,950 cases, $55.
2006 Olson Ogden Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 283 cases, $42.
2006 Paritua Central Otago Pinot Noir 600 cases, $35.
2006 Sand Hill Durell Vineyard Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir 216 cases, $55.
2006 Stephen’s Encell Vineyard San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir 350 cases, $30.
2006 Willowbrook Cellars DuNah Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 190 cases, $44.
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Allen Meadows WOPN 09 Part 2
