Sips of Recently Tasted Pinot Noir
brick & mortar, Napa Valley, California
Matt Iaconis, a graduate of University of California at Davis, launched his label in 2011 featuring Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay from Napa Valley. The previously reviewed 2011 Pinot Noir and 2012 Chardonnay were
impressive. Visit www.brickandmortarwines.com.
2014 brick & mortar Napa Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., 55 cases, $22. Released February 14,
2015. Sourced from Cougar Rock Vineyard (80%) and La Perla Vineyard (20%), both in Napa Valley. A saignée
at the crusher, transferred into 50% stainless steel and 50% neutral oak barrels for native fermentation.
Occasional bâtonnage.
·
Demure pinkish orange color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of strawberry, cranberry
and flowery herbs. Good richness for a rosé, with a moderately intense attack of red berry and pear flavors
with a hint of savory herbs in the background. Bone dry, with bright acidity on the finish that offers plenty of
berry fruit flavor with a hint of white pepper. An everyday-styled, unpretentious wine.
Score: 89
2012 brick & mortar Napa Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 110 cases,
$44. Released March 15, 2015. Sourced from Cougar Rock Vineyard
located in the Atlas Peak sub-AVA of Napa Valley at 1450’ to 1850’
elevation. Clones 777, 115 and Pommard 4. Extended cold soak, native
yeast fermentation, some whole cluster, aged 20 months in 100% onceused
French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Light cherry red
color in the glass. The nose is more savory than fruity, featuring aromas
of cherry, iron and dried herbs. Soft in the mouth, with light to mid weight
cherry, cranberry and raspberry flavors with an appealing herbal thread in
the background. The fruit really pops. Much better the following day
from a previously opened and re-corked bottle with additional nuances.
The nose was more fruity and expressive, and the darker cherry, clove
spice and peppercorn notes provided interest. Cellar for another 6 to 12
months.
Score: 92
Cellars 33, San Francisco, California
This was my first opportunity to taste the wines of Baltimore transplants, John and Katie Fones, who launched
their urban San Francisco winery with the 2011 vintage. Katie played the major roll that led to establishing a
winery, for when the couple met, she professed a preference for wine over beer that John was brewing in
Baltimore. An $8 bottle of California Merlot clinched their relationship. After relocating, John acquired his
winemaking acumen working internships at Freeman Vineyard & Winery in Sebastopol. The winery focuses on
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel (and whatever else Katie lets John make) from top vineyard sources.
Annual production of slightly over 1,000 cases is sold to a loyal mailing list. Visit www.cellars33.com.
2013 Cellars 33 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.60, 120 cases, $33. Released
February 17, 2015. Sourced from Keefer Ranch (20%), Gloria Vineyard (40%) and Hummingbird Hill Vineyard
(40%).
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Fruity aromas of cherry with added scents of bramble
and oak lead to a mid weight cherry core touched by oak and herbs. A bit shallow on the attack and finish
which is largely oak-driven. Easy to drink, with smooth tannins and a juicy finish with cut. More enjoyable over
time in the glass.
Score: 88
2013 Cellars 33 Gloria Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.60, 120 cases, $45. Release date August 25,
2015. The second vintage from the estate vineyard at Freeman Vineyard
& Winery. Harvest Brix 24.4º. Pommard, 115, Calera and Martini clones.
Aged 10 months in once-used Francois Frères oak barrels. Bottled
unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass.
Aromas of cherry and sous-bois dance from the glass. Light to mid
weight flavors of cherry, raspberry and spice expand in the mouth to fill
every nook and cranny. Highly appealing with very soft tannins,
admirable finesse, and impeccable balance. The finish is loaded with
cherry swagger, but this wine is more about personality than power.
Score: 92
2013 Cellars 33 Katie’s Cuvee Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.60, 72 cases,
$45. Released February 17, 2015. Harvest Brix 23.9º. Calera and Swan clones planted in 2006 at Keefer
Ranch. Katie’s favorite barrels. Aged 10 months in once-used Francois Frères oak barrels. Bottled unfined
and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Appealing aromas of black cherry, dark rose
and peat. Mid plus flavors of black cherry and raspberry with a hint of savory herbs in the background. Well-structured,
with pleasant oak seasoning and some giving power and length on the finish.
Score: 91
2013 Cellars 33 Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.60, 120 cases,
$45. Release date August 25, 2015. Harvest Brix 24.2º. Older blocks of Swan clone planted in the late 1980s.
Aged 10 months in 100% French oak barrels, 40% new Rousseau oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Elegant and expressive, this wine offers aromas of cherry,
baking spice and mushroom. Relatively light in weight and feminine in style, with flavors of red cherry and red
berry accented with spice, herbs and a hint of oak. Very supple tannins and easy accessibility
Score: 88
2012 Cellars 33 Brousseau Vineyard Chalone AVA Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.70, TA 0.50, 120 cases,
$42. Released August 26, 2014. Harvest Brix 23.8º. Soils of limestone and decomposed granite. Vineyard is
certified organic. Mt. Eden clone planted in 1981 and more recently planted Pommard clone. 15% whole
cluster, native yeast fermentation. Aged 16 months in 100% neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. This wine was tasted twice.The nose exhibited a range of aromas initially including
earth, leaf, conifer, oak, and a pungent note of volatile acidity in one bottle. Sampled several hours later, the nose was
considerably more pleasing with resolution of the volatile acidity, and aromas of cherry, spicy black raspberry,
herbs and earthy flora. The sweet core of earthy blackberry, black plum and cassis flavors displayed good
richness. The tannins were modest in one bottle, but aggressive and astringent in a second bottle.
Score: 87
Cornerstone Cellars, Willamette Valley, Oregon
2012 Cornerstone Stepping Stone Cuvée Artist Series Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.1%
alc., 500 cases, $30. Label features “Color of Life” painting by Oregon artist Janet Ekholm. Sourced
from several vineyards in multiple appellations. Clones are Pommard, 115, 777 and Wädenswil.
Aged 14 months in 100% French oak barrels, 18% new. Intended to be drunk “young and cool.”
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Highly fragrant initially with aromas of black cherry,
raspberry, and dried rose petal. As warming occurred over time in the glass, fruity aromas were
displaced by notes of forest floor and garden bouquet. The satisfying mid weight core of black
cherry and black raspberry fruits was backed by firm, but tucked in tannins. The cherry-driven finish was very
dry and appealing. Best enjoyed with a slight chill.
Score: 89
2012 Cornerstone Willamette Valley White Label Pinot Noir
14.1%
alc., 1,500 cases, $50. Sourced from multiple vineyards in several
appellations. Clones are Pommard, 115, 777, 114 and Wädenswil. Aged
16 months in 100% French oak barrels, 56% new.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. The nose opens slowly in the glass to reveal
inviting aromas of raspberry jam and cherry cobbler. Juicy, vibrant and
beauty of flavor, offering middleweight tastes of black cherry and black
raspberry with a pleasing touch of spice. Impressive grip and personality
and highly enjoyable now, but with the tannic backbone to age. A very
long and expansive finish seals the deal.
Score: 93
Furthermore Wines, San Francisco, California
Since 2006, Furthermore has concentrated on single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from world-class growers of coastal-influenced
vineyards. In 2011, the first estate vineyard, Nevina’s, named after Chad;‘s daughter, was added to
the lineup. It is located on the Sonoma Coast in western Occidental just six miles from the Pacific Ocean. The
winery, started by two lifelong friends, Bob Zeches and Chad Richards, got its name from the expression
“....and furthermore,” which a spouse used frequently. Bob is a materials science researcher at University of
California at Berkeley and Chad is a senior director of marketing at Apple. The wines are crafted at an urban
winery in San Francisco. Visit the website at www.furthermorewines.com.
2012 Furthermore Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
15.0% alc., pH 3.73, 115 cases,
$40. Pommard and 23 clones. Harvest Brix 27.0º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 45% of which were
new Remond.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. There is plenty of harmony in this wine which
offers an array of aromas including cherry, raspberry, spice, vanilla, cola and forest floor, and a satisfying core
of mid weight black cherry, plum and cassis flavors accented with spice. Impressive fruit presence on the
palate with balanced tannins, a silky mouthfeel and an expansive finish.
Score: 91
2012 Furthermore Weir Vineyard Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.62, 117 cases, $50.
DRC selection, Wädenswil 2A, and Rochioli selection. Harvest Brix 24.7º. Aged 15 months in French oak
barrels, 25% of which were new Cadus.
·
Light reddish purple color in the glass. Scents of berry patch,
strawberry and rainforest fern lead to an exotically flavored wine with mid weight black cherry and plum fruits at
the core embellished with underlying notes of clove, anise and dark chocolate. Some noticeable dry and
grippy tannins provide structure for aging and should ameliorate over time. This wine has admirable polish and
swagger.
Score: 91
2012 Furthermore Nevina’s Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.7% alc., pH 3.73, 126 cases, $50.
Clone 777. Harvest Brix 24.2º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 25% of which were new Damy.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Delicate aromas of black cherry, blackberry, spice and toast
pick up intensity over time in the glass. Delicious array of fruit flavors including black raspberry, blackberry and
boysenberry with added notes of complimentary spice, cola and sweet oak. Nicely balanced, with impressive
fruit intensity on the generous finish. This wine has a racy energy and a distinctly unique character that is hard
to put into words. “I really like it” should suffice.
Score: 93
2012 Furthermore Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.53, 75 cases, $50.
Clones 777 and “828.” Harvest Brix 26.0º. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 30% of which were new
Damy.
·
Moderate red cherry color in the glass. Aromas of earthy flora and Bing cherries lead to a highly
pleasurable entry of cherry, black raspberry, spice, cola and toasty oak flavors that persist through a fruit-driven
finish. The fruit is complimented by balanced tannins and juicy acidity, and the mouthfeel is silky smooth.
When tasted later in the day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine became more fragrant
with some rose petal showing up to compliment the Bing cherry essence.
Score: 92
2012 Furthermore Gloria Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.61, 164 cases, $40. Inaugural wine
from this vineyard. Calera, Swan and Pommard clones. Aged 15
months in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new Cadus.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. Enticing aromas of red
cherry pie glaze, cranberry, rose petal and conifer. Inviting,
forward flavors of cherry, raspberry, sandalwood and baking
spices including cinnamon. Lighter in weight, but packing a wallop of
flavor that hangs on through a lengthy and silky finish. When re-tasted
later in the day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine
had become an irresistable cherry bombast and my family couldn’t keep
their hands off it.
Score: 94
Loring Wine Company, Lompoc, California
It’s hard to believe it has been sixteen years since Brian Loring released his first 150 cases of Loring Wine
Company Pinot Noir. I first wrote about Brian in 2002 when his wines were receiving considerable press and
interest. He was one of the early boutique Pinot Noir producers in California to leave a career (he was a
software engineer) behind to pursue winemaking, and he inspired a number of other Pinot Noir lovers to follow
the same track including Jamie Kutch (Kutch Wines) and Andrew Vingiello (A.P. Vin). His success was
predicated on choosing first-rate vineyard sources. The importance of the vineyard is exemplified by the
distinctive labels that prominently depict the vineyard sources of the wine in the bottle. The wines are now
produced in Lompoc where visits are by appointment. A newer tasting room in collaboration with Cargassachi
and Point Concepcion wineries is located at 420 East Hwy 246 in Buellton near the Hitching Post II restaurant.
The tasting room is open Thursday through Monday from 10:00 A.M> to 5:00 P.M. All Loring Wine Company
wines have been closed with a Stelvin closure since the 2004 vintage. Total annual production is 9,000-10,000
cases. Brian’s sister, Kimberly, has been an important asset to the winery’s success as well.
Brian says, “The 2013 wines are similar to 2012, but with a notch more depth and intensity - maybe a cross
between 2009 and 2012. Almost all the barrels in the winery could probably qualify to be in the single vineyard
wines, so the AVA blends are extra special. We look for power in the single vineyard wines versus softness
and prettiness for the AVA wines. The AVA wines come from the vineyards that are also vineyard designates
The Pinot Noirs are 100% de-stemmed and crushed. After a cold soak, inoculation continues with
Assmanshausen yeast, and fermentation is carried out in small lots. Aging is carried out over 10 months in
100% French oak barrels, 20% new. The wines are only occasionally fined, and bottled unfiltered.
2013 Loring Wine Company Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.65, 350 cases,
$36, screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Moderately dark cherry color in the glass. Fragrant
with aromas of cherry, spice, rose petal, oak, and earthy flora. Mid weight flavors of earth-kissed
black cherry and dark raspberry with good intensity and lift. The tannins are balanced, oak plays a
complimentary role, and the finish offers a generous beam of black cherry fruit. This wine grew on
me over time in the glass.
Score: 90
2013 Loring Wine Company Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.72, 800 cases, $32, screwcap. Released
September 2014.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
This is a black cherry themed wine with a thread of oak
adding nuances. Discreetly concentrated, with an admirable
attack and cherry-fueled finish lifted by juicy acidity.
Score: 90
2013 Loring Wine Company Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.75, 1,625 cases, $27,
screwcap. Released September 2014. Moderately light cherry red color in the glass.
·
Pleasant aromas of fresh
cherry tart and sous-bois. Elegantly styled and lighter weighted than the other 2013 AVA Pinots, with flavors of
red cherry and red raspberry. The suave tannins make for easy drinking. An unpretentious, everyday style
wine.
Score: 88
2013 Loring Wine Company San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.67, 825
cases, $29, screwcap. Release September 2014.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
Exuberant aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry and garden bouquet. Mid weight flavors of black
cherry, black raspberry and blackberry backed by firm tannins. The fruit is vivid and expressive and
quite enjoyable now. An early drinking, everyday wine.
Score: 89
2012 Loring Wine Company Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.68, 250 cases, $36,
screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. Very typical of its Russian River
Valley origins, with aromas and flavors of Bing cherry and baking spice. Very suave and easy to like with a
compliment of oak. A forward drinking wine with admirable balance and some finishing intensity.
Score: 89
2013 Loring Wine Company Graham Family Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH
3.70, 200 cases, $50, screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Light cherry red color in the glass. Soaring
scents of red cherry and spice that keep giving over time in the glass. The attack of spice and cola enhanced
red cherry fruit really draws your attention, and maintains a pleasing intensity through the finish of uncommon
generosity. Quite charming and elegant with impressive balance.
Score: 92
2013 Loring Wine Company Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.75,
400 cases, $50, screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass.
Nicely perfumed with scents of cherry, raspberry, spice and herbs. Flavors of red cherry, cranberry and
pomegranate are featured with an overlay of oak. On the feminine side which is typical of Rosella’s, with
modest tannins and a sweet cherry finish. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and recorked
bottle, the oak dominated the fruit.
Score: 89
2013 Loring Wine Company Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.71, 275
cases, $50, screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy
nose upon opening, slowly revealing fruity aromas of black cherry and black raspberry. More sap and structure
than the Rosella’s with a savory herb note complimenting the core of black cherry fruit. Silky smooth on the
palate with balanced tannins and a finishing burst of fruit goodness. Much more appealing over time in the
glass. This wine has a ways to go and would be best cellared for a year or more.
Score: 91
2013 Loring Wine Company Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.74, 250 cases,
$50, screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is not
open for business, only offering aromas of bramble and mushroom. Much better on the palate, with a luscious
core of black cherry and black raspberry fruit lifted by a lively cut of juicy acidity and a touch of oak enlarging
the envelope. Highly satisfying, with a caressing finish. The aromas should arrive with short-term cellaring.
Score: 91
2013 Loring Wine Company Keefer Ranch Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.61, 300 cases, $50,
screwcap. Released September 2014.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Rather typical for Keefer Ranch, with
fresh aromas of strawberry, red cherry and sandalwood.
Extravagant flavors of cherry, ripe strawberry, spice, and cocoa
dust with the right touch of oak. Refined and sophisticated, with
a huge, extremely long finish that nearly brings you to your knees.
Score: 94
2013 Loring Wine Company Aubaine Vineyard San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.55, 200 cases,
$50, screwcap. Released February 2015.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. The aromas of black cherry,
sarsaparilla, clove and other spices, and brewed tea leap from
the glass. Delicious core of black cherry, black raspberry and
cassis flavors wrapped in tame tannins. Plush and mouth filling
with a fruit-filled finish that is memorable for its length. This vineyard can
produce wines that are rugged and tannic, but Brian has tamed the beast
beautifully in this vintage. This is a stunning wine that really grabbed my
attention.
Score: 94
2013 Loring Wine Company Russell Family Vineyard Paso Robles Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.59, 200
cases, $50, screwcap. Released February 2015.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose
is rather shy, offering demure aromas of bramble, smoky oak and dark berry jam. Much more inviting on the
palate, with mid weight plus flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and black plum, with a touch of anise and
earthiness. A richly fruited wine with firm tannins, but easy to like, with a very long and fruit-driven finish. About
the same the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, again showing impressive finishing
intensity.
Score: 91
2013 Loring Wine Company Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.59, 400 cases,
$50, screwcap. Released February 2015.
·
Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with
red cherry pie glaze, spice and sandalwood. Soft and elegant, with a dreamy cherry flavor that carries over to
a finish that leaves a lasting impression. Supple tannins, reigned-in oak, and pure enjoyment. Tres Pinot.
Score: 92
2013 Loring Wine Company Cargasacchi Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.64, 200
cases, $50, screwcap. Released February 2015.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A darker
fruited wine with admirable finesse. Aromas of earthy flora, black raspberry, spice and oak lead to mid weight
flavors of black cherry and blackberry with an herbal vein in the background. Silky in the mouth with balanced
tannins and some finishing goodness. A bit shallow and atypical for Cargasacchi Vineyard, but still quite
satisfying.
Score: 90
Love & Squalor, McMinnville, Oregon
Owner and winemaker Matt Berson has been working in the Oregon wine industry since 2003. The home of
Love & Squalor is The Portland Wine Company in Portland, Oregon, while the wine is vinified in McMinnville.
The website, www.loveandsqualorwine.com, is under construction but wines are available for purchase on the
website.
2011 Love & Squalor Antsy Pants Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
12.6% alc., 75 cases, $36.
Antsy Pants is the name given to the vintner’s barrel selection bottling of any given vintage, and is
a reserve wine. Sourced from Temperance Hill Vineyard in Eola-Amity Hills (34%, Pommard
clone)), Winter’s Hill Vineyard in Dundee Hills (33%, Pommard clone) and Saikkonen Vineyard in
Ribbon Ridge (33%, clone 667). The grapes are de-stemmed and cold soaked for 7 to 8 days.
Small-lot fermentations were not inoculated and punched down gently by hand or foot. Aged 18
months in neutral French oak barrels and racked twice before bottling on April 16, 2013.
·
Light
reddish purple color in the glass. Pleasing aromas of cherry, allspice, violet, bramble and dried
herbs. Modest in weight and delicate, but flavorful, with a core of red berry and cherry fruits framed by supple,
suede-like tannins. Very silky on the palate with some finish and admirable balance. This wine reflects the
vintage nicely.
Score: 90
2012 Love & Squalor Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.61, 900 cases,
$24. A multi-vineyard and multi-appellation blend. Pommard, 777 and 667 clones. Grapes were
mostly de-stemmed (10% whole cluster) and cold soaked for 7 to 8 days. Small-lot fermentations
were not inoculated and punched down gently by hand or foot. Aged in mostly neutral French oak
barrels for 18 months before bottling on May 22, 2014.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Tres Pinot, with aromas of black cherry, pomegranate, rose petal and herbs, and the mid
weight flavor of black cherry. This wine reflects the ripeness of the vintage and offers easy drinking
with suave tannins, complimentary oak, a silky mouthful and a pleasing burst of cherry fruit on the finish.
Score: 90
2012 Love & Squalor Antsy Pants Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., pH 3.65, 150 cases, $48. Areserve wine produced from
selected barrels. Sourced from Saikkonen Vineyard in Ribbon Ridge
(32%, clone 667), Cherry Grove Vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton (17%, clone
777), Cuddihy Vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton (17%, unknown clones),
Winter’s Hill Vineyard in Dundee Hills (17%, Pommard clone), and
Methven Vineyard in Eola-Amity Hills (17%, clone 115). 27% whole
cluster, cold soaked for 7 to 8 days. Small-lot fermentations not
inoculated and punched down gently by hand or foot. Aged in 33% twoyear-
old and 67% neutral French oak barrels for 18 months before
bottling on May 22, 2014.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and
flower garden. The perfectly ripened fruit makes a statement on the
palate and holds on to a lasting, satisfying finish. The wine has shoulders but is still refined. A hint of spice
from the whole cluster adds interest, the oak is beautifully integrated, and the overall impression is one of
sheer beauty. Should be fine in the cellar long term.
Score: 92
Nuggucciet Cellars, Central Coast, California
2011 Nuggucciet Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., pH 3.79, 50 cases, $26. It’s “New Ga
Shay.” Sourced from Hyland Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Scents of black cherry, spice and espresso lead to a middleweight wine with fresh black cherry and dark
raspberry flavors, framed by modest tannins and dominated by an oak overlay. Oak plays too big a role in this
wine for my taste, both on the nose and palate, as well as adding oak tannins. Your enjoyment will be
predicated on your oak tolerance.
Score: 87
2012 Nuggucciet Cellars McKenna Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.60, 60 cases, $36. Martini clone
from Riverbench Vineyard. Named after Ross and Nancy
Briley’s first grandchild.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color
in the glass. The aromas of black cherry, cola and spice
really pop. Very plush, full-bodied black cherry core balanced
by fine-grain tannins that are well tucked in. Plenty of oak
compliment in this wine but balanced by the prodigious fruit load. The
finish has noticeable persistence and drive. This one really comes at you
and demands your full attention.
Score: 91
Vincent Wine Co., Portland, Oregon
Owner and winemaker Vincent Fritsche launched Vincent Wine Company in 2009 after over ten years
experience in making wine in Oregon. The popular urban winery is located in downtown Portland in the
Southeast Wine Cooperative. Visit www.vincentwinecompany.com.
2012 Vincent Wine Co. Ribbon Ridge Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $25.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. The aromas pick up intensity over time in the glass, offering notes of cherry,
raspberry, spice and timber. A solid wine featuring dark cherry, raspberry and plum flavors with an earthy
compliment. Drinks effortlessly, with modest tannins and a bright cut of acidity on the finish.
Score: 88
Waits-Mast Family Cellars, San Francisco, California
2012 Waits-Mast Mariah Vineyard Mendocino Ridge Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 98 cases, $42. Released
October 2014. Vineyard planted by Dan Dooling and Vicki Tomola in the 1970s. Located at 2,400‘ elevation.
Clones are 667 and Pommard. Harvest Brix 25.5º. 4-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged 16
months in 100% French oak barrels, 25% new.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Interesting
aromas of cherry, sous-bois, iron and a hint of smoky oak. Light in weight with good finesse, offering flavors of
cherry, boysenberry and spice. Nicely composed with good oak integration and echoes of cherry on the
modest finish.
Score: 89
2012 Waits-Mast Oppenlander Vineyard Mendocino County Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 95 cases, $44.
Released October 2014. Vineyard is outside town of Comptche, about 8 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean.
Harvest Brix 24.7º. Clones 114, 115 and Pommard. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation, aged 16
months in once used, twice used and neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
The aromas never really come forth, even when checked the following day from a previously opened and recorked
bottle. The mid weight black cherry and black raspberry flavors have a ripe but not over ripe profile.
Highly enjoyable with a touch of oak seasoning and a subtle earthy, feral note typical of this vineyard. Nicely
balanced tannins and some finishing intensity. Great potential here but will require some patience.
Score: 90-91
2012 Waits-Mast Deer Meadows Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc.,97 cases, $55.
Released May 2014. Rich Savoy’s vineyard above Boonville at 1,600‘ elevation. Clones 115, 777 and Calera.
Harvest Brix 25.0º. 100% de-stemmed, native fermentation, aged 16 months in 100% French oak barrels, 25%
new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of darker stone and berry fruits.
Impressive attack of nicely ripened boysenberry and pomegranate fruit backed by firm tannins. The biggest,
baddest, sappiest wine in the 2012 lineup but everything is in balance. The finish is especially noteworthy with
plenty of spice and fruit to please. Should benefit from another year or two in bottle.
Score: 92
2012 Waits-Mast Wentzel Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 48 cases, $45. Released
October 2014. Vineyard is located at 900’ elevation near Philo. The 10-acre property is organically farmed.
Harvest Brix 23.5º. Clones 114, 115, 667 and 777. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation, aged 16
months in 100% French oak barrels, 25% new.
·
Moderate ruby red color in the glass. Shy aromas of cherry
and raspberry replicated in the flavors. Laden with blueberry, raspberry and spice, framed by good acid
tension, but tight and unexpressive. When tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked
bottle, the wine was still closed with tannins somewhat more prominent than fruit. Cellar this one for a year or
two.
Score: 88-89
2012 Waits-Mast Nash Mill Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.5%
alc., 70 cases, $40. Released May 2014. Vineyard owned by Zac and Krista
Robinson, whose family also owns Husch Vineyards. It is located in the cool
northern end of the Anderson Valley. Clone 115, 777 and Pommard. Harvest
Brix 27.0º-28.0º. 100% de-stemmed, native and inoculated fermentation, aged
16 months in 100% French oak barrels, 33% new.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Like a walk in the forest, this wine smells of conifer
and earthy spices. An intriguing palate featuring flavors of black cherry, baking
spice, and mocha. Tricked out with a velvety mouthfeel and firm structural
bones. Highly unique and interesting, and difficult to describe, but I really like it.
Even better later the same day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Serious goodness.
Score: 93
Weatherborne Wine Corp., Lompoc, California
This was my first exposure to the wines of Weatherborne Wine Corp. and I was very impressed. Winemaker
Chris Carter released his first Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir from the 2012 vintage. Carter attended University of
California at Davis after detouring from a prospective career as a professional aviator, and worked in a number
of cellars in California, Oregon and New Zealand before returning home to Santa Barbara County. He says,
“Through all my travels and countless hours slogging in others’ cellar, only one grape has made me pause, and
be truly thankful for the moment I had to appreciate it: Pinot Noir. Ethereal, fleeting, perhaps even taunting,
good Pinot is hard to put your finger on.” Visit the website at www.weatherborne.com.
2013 Weatherborne Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.9% alc.,
450 cases, $35, screwcap. Sourced from the John
Sebastiano Vineyard. 8%-9% whole cluster. Aged in 10% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light dark cherry color in
the glass. Lovely aromas of dark red cherry, plum, raspberry
coulis, fruit leather and spice. Juicy and fresh with bright
flavors of black cherry and black raspberry with fine grain
tannins and complimentary oak in the background.
Admirable balance and easy approachability. Still satisfying
the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 92
2012 Weatherborne Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., 225 cases, $35, screwcap. Sourced
from John Sebastiano and Melville vineyards. Inaugural release. 25% whole cluster. Aged in neutral oak barrels.
·
Moderately light cherry color in
the glass. Well-spiced dark fruits are featured on the nose that also sports a touch of herbs and
oak. Slightly richer than the 2013 bottling, featuring black cherry, black raspberry, anise and
savory herb flavors with a noticeable oak overlay. When tasted the following day from a previously
opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had become highly aromatic with scents of cherry, rose,
spice, herbs and smoke with a flavorful cherry core overlaid with smoky oak.
Score: 90
More
2012 Chehalem Stoller Vineyard Dundee Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.58,
426 cases, $50. Harvest Brix 24.2º-24.5º. Aged 11 months in 100% new French oak barrels, 50% new and
445 1-year-old. Crossflow filtered.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Extremely fragrant with hi-tone
aromas of dark raspberries, cassis and toasty oak. Suave on the palate, with robust, flavors of black raspberry,
black plum, tea, and spice framed by mildly grippy tannins. Somewhat earthy, with a tug of oak in the
background. Impressive fruit intensity and finishing length.
Score: 91
2013 Drew Morning Dew Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., $55. Fifth release from this vineyard in the deep end
of the Anderson Valley owned by Burt Williams. Sourced from
the Rochioli block situated on a south slope with lighter soil
provides finesse and charm, while the La Tache block is on a
gentler slope with more clay soil giving more power and richness
to the fruit blend. 50% rochioli selection and 50% “828” (La
Tache selection). 50% whole cluster fermentation. Native fermentation
and malolactic fermentation. Aged 11 months in 100% French oak
barrels, 25% new.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Almost a
shame to open a bottle now, for this is built to cellar a few more years.
Lovely aromas of black cherry, sous-bois, dried herbs and stem.
Luscious mid palate flavors of dark cherries, black raspberries and
pomegranate with firm tannins underneath, and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish driven by bright acidity. Much
better over time in the glass and was still pumping out glorious flavors two days later from a previously opened
and re-corked bottle. Very classy, even extraordinary.
Score: 94
2012 Gloria Ferrer Dijon Clone Selection Carneros Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.76, TA 0.54, 100 cases,
$50.Gloria Ferrer has 16 clones of Pinot Noir in production on the winery’s 333-acre estate. Almost 11 acres
are planted to Dijon 115 and in this vintage was chosen for the winery’s first single vineyard and single clone
bottling.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very aromatic, with an intense perfume of black
cherry, dark raspberry and spice with toasty oak. Very polished with bold flavors of black cherry and black
raspberry complimented by notes of earth, anise and spice. Generous and welcoming now, but will easily age
several years.
Score: 90
2013 Guillén Family Adrian Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
12.6% alc., 75 cases, $40. Sourced from Block F at Vista Hills Vineyard
in the Dundee Hills. Clone 667 planted in 2005. Native yeast
fermentation, 100% whole cluster, aged sur lie 11 months in 100% new
French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light red cherry color in the glass.
Typical whole cluster goodness on the nose with highly fragrant aromas
of rose petal, spice, and green tea. Light to mid weight flavors of wellspiced
and juicy red cherry fruit. Quite forward, with the slightest oak in
the background and well-integrated tannins. Not as ripe or sappy as the
2012 vintage bottling, but plenty of charm. When tasted the following
day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had picked
up a little more flavor intensity and length indicating short-term cellaring
is indicated.
Score: 93
2012 Josh Cellars California Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $18. Blended and bottled by Joseph Carr. Common on
supermarket shelves in Southern California.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black
cherry, wood spice, nut oils and vitamin cabinet. Velvety on the palate with decent flavors of blackest cherry,
black raspberry and blackberry backed by sweet oak, with notes of marzipan and green herbs in the
background. The tannins are balanced and the wine finishes with a cut of acidity. Overall, the wine seems a
bit weird but I can’t put my finger on the reason(s).
Score: 85
2012 McHenry Vineyard Swan Clone Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., <96 cases, $25. From
a 2-acre vineyard in Bonny Doon at 1800’ elevation, five miles from the Pacific Ocean. Harvest Brix 24º. Aged
2 years in French oak barrels.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very sexy perfume of fresh
cherries, red plum, rose petal, soy and sweet oak. Cherry and cranberry flavors explode on entry and persist
through an expansive, citrus-infused cherry finish. Impressive balance and oak management, and highly
accessible. The finish is exceptional.
Score: 92
2012 Penner-Ash Estate Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc.,pH 3.69, TA
0.56, 753 cases, $65. Harvest Brix 25.7º. Aged 10 months in 32% new, 21% 1-year-old, 32% 2-year-old, and
15% neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is fruity and fragrant,
featuring aromas of dark berries, cassis forest floor and vanilla. Structured and sappy, with flavors of sweet
blackberry, black raspberry, and pomegranate, with a hint of brewed tea, backed by a noticeable oak imprint.
Unusually extracted for an Oregon Pinot Noir reflecting the 2012 vintage. The finish is fruity and racy with a
good cut of acidity.
Score: 90
2012 Ramey Platt Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., $74. Very limited, not offered for sale on
website.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is flush with aromas of rose petal, forest
floor, conifer and dried herbs. Full-bodied flavors of ripe black cherry and black raspberry with a savory herbal
thread in the background. A bit daunting at present with a finish that has a good cut of acidity and length, but is
dry and taut with overwhelmingly astringent tannins. Probably best to cellar this wine to see if the tannins
ameliorate or match the wine with hearty protein dishes if opened now.
Score: 88
2013 Sante Arcangeli Family Wines Clone 32 “Selezine Susie” Split Rail Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., pH 3.61, TA 0.62, 97
cases, $45. A wine club offering. Clone 32 is a traditional sparkling wine clone
grown at 1700’ elevation in Corralitos. The dry farmed vines were planted in 1986
mistakenly when the owner ordered Chardonnay and receive a Champagne
clone of Pinot Noir instead. This clone makes up the backbone of the winery’s
Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir. In this vintage, the clone warranted its own
bottling. Harvest Brix 23.5º. 100% de-stemmed. Aged 10 months sur lie in 100%
French oak barrels, 50% new. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. The aromas build in intensity over time in the glass,
offering notes of black cherry, raspberry jam, conifer and toast. Vivid and vibrant
on the attack, with a charge of black cherry fruit that is crisp and juicy. A touch of
spice, dark chocolate, and earthiness add interest. The tannins are modest but
have some grip, and a spark of acidity really elevates the fruit. The finish is extremely persistent, driven by
bright cherry goodness.
Score: 93
2012 Wilde Farm Donnelly Creek Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
12.7% alc., $42. Vineyard planted
by Mary Elke in 1991 at confluence of Donnelly and Anderson Creeks just outside of Boonville. Pommard,
Dijon and Stang clones.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Delightful aromas of black
raspberry, cherry, strawberry and rose petal. Mid weight flavors of black raspberry, plum sauce and spice with
complimentary oak in the background. Surprisingly ripe flavors at this ABV. Well-structured with a firm tannic
backbone, and a finish with weight and presence.
Score: 91
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