Sips of Recently Tasted California Pinot Noir & Chardonnay
Arista Winery, Healdsburg, CA
Arista is a family owned and operated winery estate founded in 2002 by Al and Janis McWilliams. The four
estate Pinot Noir vineyards and hospitality center are located on 36 acres along Westside Road in the Middle
Reach sub-region of the Russian River Valley. The emphasis is on appellation and vineyard-designate Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay. The wines reviewed here are the inaugural offerings from winemaker Matt Courtney,
who joined the winery on January 1, 2013. Courtney spent the previous eight years as an assistant winemaker
at Marcassin Winery after graduating from University of California at Davis with a degree in enology and
viticulture. The winery’s beautiful tasting room is surrounded by a serene Japanese garden and is open daily.
The wines are sold on the winery website at www.aristawinery.com, through a mailing list (currently closed but
a waiting list is available), and through distribution to wine stores (larger production offerings) and select
restaurants nationally.
2013 Arista Perli Vineyard Mendocino Ridge Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., 208 cases, $68. Vineyard planted in
2001 and owned and farmed by Steve Alden. Located at 2,200 feet elevation and about 6 miles inland.
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Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens with aromas of dark red berries, black
cherry and sous-bois, with an espresso note gaining traction over time in the glass. The mid weight core of
nicely ripened dark raspberry, blackberry and black cherry fruits offers length and energy although the fruit is
overlain with lavish oak. The satiny texture is very appealing and the smooth finish is generously endowed with
fruit and oak-driven notes of anise, smoke and black tea.
Score: 90
2013 Arista Harper’s Rest Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.52,
156 cases, $82. This vineyard is located on a portion of the Arista property that was once an ancient river bed
so the soils are gravely loam. The top soil is relatively shallow so root systems plunge deep beneath the
surface. Yields tend to be less than 2 tons per acre. The vineyard is named to honor Ruben Harper, a pioneer
farmer who settled in the Russian River Valley in the mid 1800s and homesteaded the land that is now Arista
Estate. Ruben is buried under a California Bay Laurel tree in the middle of this 2-acre vineyard. Pommard
clone planted in 2007. Yields 1.25 tons per acre.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Charming aromas
of an assortment of berry and dark stone fruits lead to an oak-kissed mid weight plus core of dark cherry and
blackberry flavors framed by silky tannins. Impressive attack and palate-staining flavor, holding on through a
vigorous finish. Still quite young and not as giving as it will be.
Score: 92
2013 Arista Two Birds Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.87, TA 0.53, 144
cases, $82. Vineyard is named after proprietors Al and Janis McWilliams who call each other “bird” and live
next to these vines. This 3-acre vineyard was planted in 2007 to Pommard, Swan and Calera clones of Pinot
Noir. Soils are a mixture of loam and clay loam. Yield 1.25 tons per acre. Only a few barrels are chosen each
year to go into this blend.
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Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of plum,
blackberry, violet and spice holding up nicely over time in the glass. A spirited wine that combines grace and
machismo. The dark fruits attack and saturate the mouth finishing with outrageous intensity. An oak-driven note
of coffee is evident but not intrusive. The mix of clones adds an extra dimension to this wine.
Score: 93
Bacigalupi Vineyards, Healdsburg, CA
The Bacigalupi family are Russian River Valley originals, with a history of farming on Westside Road dating
back to 1956 when Charles and Helen Bacigalupi bought the 121-acre Goddard Ranch. Today, the Goddard
Ranch has 120 vineyard acres and is the oldest ranch among several that the Bacigalupis farm. Charles’s son,
John, was raised on the Goddard Ranch and after a lifetime of winegrowing experience, teamed with his
spouse, Pam Heck Bacigalupi, and fourth-generation nephew and winemaker, Tyler Heck, to found John Tyler
Wines. John and Pam’s third generation twin sister daughters, Nicole and Katey, became the face of John Tyler
Wines and were instrumental in the building of a stylish tasting room on Westside Road where the wines are
featured.
Beginning in 2013, the name of the winery was transitioned from John Tyler Wines to Bacigalupi Vineyards to
honor the legacy of winegrowing of the Bacigalupi family. The first releases bearing the Bacigalupi label were
from the 2011 vintage and were vinified by new winemaker Ashley Hetzberg. She changed the style of the
wines to make them more gracious and enticing upon release. The wines are available at the winery’s tasting
room and from the online website store at www.bacigalupivineyards.com. The 2013 vintage wines reviewed
below are sold out, but the 2014 versions are now available at the same price. The Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and
Petite Sirah-Zinfandel blend (Fondare) are also outstanding wines. The Bacigalupi twins staff the tasting room
and are delightful hosts. The Bacigalupi wines have a pedigree, a legacy, and a family that embraces the
consumer’s interest.
2013 Bacigalupi Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 232 cases, $65 (sold out). Unfined and
unfiltered.
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Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Lovely perfume of Bing cherry, rose petal, spice
and toasted oak. The medium-bodied core of fresh black cherry fruit is complimented by smoky oak and nicely
composed t n’ a. Very juicy and vibrant on the finish.
Score: 90
2013 Bacigalupi Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.2% alc., 166 cases, $56 (sold out). Unfined and
unfiltered. Vines grafted from the original vineyard that supplied the grapes to the 1973 Chateau Montelena
Chardonnay that won the 1976 Paris Tasting.
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Moderate light golden yellow color in the glass. The nose
displays aromas of lemon oil, star fruit, toasty oak and lees. Slightly creamy in the mouth, with flavors of citrus,
pear and kiwi set off by a toasty almond note. Very satisfying with a juicy, lip-smacking finish well endowed with
oak highlights.
Score: 90
Black Kite Cellars, San Francisco, CA
This winery, owned by Tom and Rebecca Green Birdsall, focuses on producing small lots of Pinot Noir from the
varied blocks of Kite’s Rest Vineyard in the Anderson Valley as well as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from other
similarly expressive vineyard sites in other regions such as the Santa Lucia Highlands and Sonoma Coast.
Kite’s Rest Vineyard is located on a 40-acre parcel in the “deep end” of the Anderson Valley where vines
coexist with towering coastal redwoods. The vineyard consists of a total of 12 acres divided into three very
distinct blocks. Veteran winemaker Jeff Gaffner crafts the wines which stylistically feature generous oak
highlights. The wines are available through the winery’s website at www.blackitecellars.com, the winery’s wine
club, and through select distribution in wine shops and restaurants nationally.
2013 Black Kite Cellars “Kite’s Rest” Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.60, 995 cases,
$48. Dijon 114 and 115 and Pommard clones planted at Kite’s Rest Vineyard. Aged 11 months in French oak
barrels, 33% new.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic, offering scents of macerated
cherry, peppery spice and a hint of toast. The wine offers a forward drinking essence of cherry fruit framed by
modest tannins and a measured riff of oak. Upbeat and easy to like, with a silky mouthfeel and a timid but
flavorful finish. The lightest weight wine in the 2013 Black Kite lineup, but not at all wimpy.
Score: 90
2013 Black Kite Cellars “Redwoods Edge” Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.58, 335
cases, $60. Dijon 114 and 115 clones planted at Kite’s Rest Vineyard. 321 feet elevation, north facing, loam
soils. Yields 1.5-2.0 tons per acre. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
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Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Aromas of macerated dark cherries and spicy, smoky oak lead to a charming medium-
bodied core of cherry and huckleberry fruit flavors underlain with smoky oak and a touch of umami. The tannins
are balanced and the finish is courageous and juicy. The wine is lavishly oaked and shows a slight bit of
alcoholic warmth on the finish, but still has a lot to recommend.
Score: 90
2013 Black Kite Cellars “Stony Terrace” Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.58, 350
cases, $60. Pommard clone grown at Kite’s Rest Vineyard. Elevation 217 feet, north facing, gravelly loam soils,
yields 1.0-2.5 tons per acre. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
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Moderate reddish purple color
in the glass. Very fragrant, with aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, woodlands, sous-bois and a floral note
elevating from the glass. Inviting richness of darker cherry and berry flavors are backed by mildly firm tannins
and juicy acidity. Silky in the mouth, with a vibrant and flavorful finish that really hangs on.
Score: 93
2013 Black Kite Cellars “River Turn” Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.62, 352 cases,
$60. Pommard clone planted at Kite’s Rest Vineyard. Elevation 130 feet, north facing, sandy and silty loam
soils, yields 2.5 tons per acre.Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 50% new.
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Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. Initially shy aromas of oak-kissed black cherry fruit pick up intensity over time in the glass.
Intense attack of cherry and strawberry fruit with an earthy bent. Structured with well-proportioned tannins, a
measured use of oak, and an edgy, generous and lengthy finish.
Score: 92
2013 Black Kite Cellars Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.60, TA
0.58, 423 cases, $55. Pisoni clone. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 33% new.
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Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. Very engaging nose offering hi-tone aromas of cherries, red berries and latte. Succulent on
the palate, with flavors of pie cherry, red berries and cola dancing in harmony with a deft touch of oak.
Impressive harmony and a consuming finish that seems to last and last.
Score: 92
2013 Black Kite Cellars Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.58,
273 cases, $60. Dijon 777 clone. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 33% new.
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Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. I loved the nose which extended aromas of black cherry, dark red raspberry, redwood
and anise. An appealing wine with impeccably balanced t n’ a, a creamy mouthfeel, and a noticeable top note
of oak.
Score: 91
Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards, Freestone, CA
2012 Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards Quarter Moon Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.8% alc., $75. From three specific blocks of the estate 41-acre vineyard located at 500 feet elevation
only a few miles from the Pacific Coast as the crow flies. A mixture of Calera and clones 90 and 96
with some 459 and 777. 26% whole cluster. 21% fermented in oak open top fermenters. Aged 14
months in 55% new and 45% 2-year-old and 3-year-old French oak barrels.
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Moderately dark reddish
purple color in the glass. Terrific aromatic presence featuring scents of blackberry reduction sauce,
cassis and exotic spices. Suave, polished and packed with a flavorful assortment of dark fruits, this
gorgeous wine offers many nuances including cardamom, Asian 5-spice and game accents combined with a
perfect compliment of oak. Admirable balance with welcome acidity on the lip smacking finish. This wine has
loads of charisma.
Score: 94
2012 Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards Pastorale Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., $75. This
34.5-acre estate vineyard surrounds the Freestone winery and
is but 8 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. Calera and 777
clones. 30% whole cluster. 33% fermented in oak open top
fermenters. Aged 14 months in 55% new and 45% 2-year-old
and 3-year-old French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish
purple color in the glass. Haunting aromas of black cherry, sous-bois,
rose petal and spice box. A truly harmonious drinking experience with
every component singing in tune. Delicious flavors of black cherry and
black raspberry with an accent of exotic spices and black tea. The fruit
holds on to the peacock finish for what seems like a minute. Perfectly
integrated acidity holds the rich fruit in balance.This wine is true to its
mission.
Score: 95
Loring Wine Company, Lompoc, CA
Brian Loring has been crafting Pinot Noir for nearly 20 years. He was one of the new wave of early boutique
California Pinot Noir producers to enter the field from another profession (in his case, software engineer). His
continued success has been predicated in part on his insistence that he acquire first-rate Pinot Noir grapes
from prestigious growers. He never professed to be a knowledgeable winegrower, allowing vineyard owners
leeway to farm his blocks as they farmed the blocks for their own label. Of course this has changed as he has
acquired more experience over the years but quality grapes still remain the cornerstone of the Loring Wine
Company label. Many of the vineyards appear on the front label of the vineyard-designated wines. Stylistically,
the Pinot Noirs have been bursting with showy fruit framed by a toasted oak character, but the wines have
become more refined and now are more reflective of site. Brian branched out into Chardonnay in 2009, and
more recently sparkling wine. A new tasting room is open Thursday through Monday in Buellton near the
Hitching Post II restaurant. The wines are sold through a mailing list at www.loringwinecompany.com. Brian’s
sister, Kimberly, is actively involved in all aspects of the winery as well.
At crush, the Pinot Noir grapes are de-stemmed, cold soaked, and then fermented with proprietary yeast. The
small lots are pressed using a basket press, and aged in Francois Frères and Sirugue French oak barrels that
have medium toast. Approximately 50% of the barrels are new in each vintage. The wines are stored in the
caves at Cottonwood Canyon Winery. All wines are closed with screwcap.
2014 Loring Wine Company Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.62, 250 cases, $36.
Released September 2015.
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Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A solid, but not inspiring wine,
offering little fruit on the nose but deep cherry flavor on the palate. Smooth in the mouth with prudent tannins
and a tasty accent of spice and oak. Good harmony, but very little Russian River Valley typicality.
Score: 87
2014 Loring Wine Company Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.63, 400 cases, $36.
Released September 2015.
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Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. The nose opens slowly to reveal
aromas of darker berries and cherry syrup with an added note of cigar box. An easy drinking wine featuring a
medium-bodied core of dark red berries and black cherries with the right touch of oak and modest tannins. The
moderately long finish is the wine’s best feature.
Score: 88
2014 Loring Wine Company Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.71, 1,000 cases, $36.
Released September 2015.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is the most
inspired of the 2014 AVA Pinot Noirs with enticing aromas of black cherry pie glaze and sous-bois.
A plush charge of fresh black cherry and black raspberry fruit alerts the palate, finishing with a juicy
exit. Nicely balanced with complimentary oak.
Score: 89
2014 Loring Wine Company Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.75, 1,000 cases, $28.
Released September 2015.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. This wine features a heavy hand with
oak, with aromas and flavors of toast, cigar box and anise dominating the black cherry and plum fruit essence.
Silky in the mouth, with a cherry fueled finish that is imbued with tart citrus acidity.
Score: 86
2014 Loring Wine Company Graham Family Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.75, 125 cases, $50. Released September 2015.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
This wine brings the senses to attention with a hi-tone perfume of black cherry, raspberry, spice and toasty oak.
Nearly full bodied, with a charge of Bing cherry flavor that saturates the mouth with sappy goodness. Accents
of cola and oak add interest. Impressive balance with suave tannins and flawless integration of acidity, finishing
with plenty of cherry goodness.
Score: 91
2014 Loring Wine Company Keefer Ranch Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.64, 400 cases, $50. Released September 2015.
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Moderately light reddish purple color in the
glass. Red fruits drive this wine which is typical of this cool-sited vineyard. Flavors of iced cherry and
strawberry are framed by juicy acidity and suave tannins. The wine’s velvety mouthfeel is very seductive. More
flavor intensity arrives over time in the glass, including more generosity on the oak infused cherry scented
finish. Wines from this special vineyard always captivate me.
Score: 91
2014 Loring Wine Company Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.73, 400
cases, $50. Released September 2015.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing scent of
fresh macerated cherries. Very charming in the mouth, with flavors of black cherry and blueberry that build over
time. Quite silky with balanced tannins, a deft touch of oak, and a lip-smacking finish.
Score: 91
2014 Loring Wine Company Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.8% alc., pH 3.71,
400 cases, $50. Released September 2015.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting aromas of
berry mash, cherry syrup, and oak vanillin lead to a satisfying marriage of cherry and strawberry fruit with oak
driven mocha and vanilla. The suave tannins make for easy drinking, and the juicy finish, although not lengthy,
is quite flavorful. Unchanged the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 89
2014 Loring Wine Company Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.66, 200 cases,
$50. Released September 2015.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is very reticent upon
opening. The core flavors of sweet red and purple berries and Damsel plum have lift and energy from an
underlying lively acidity. The tannins are well integrated and the wine finishes on a tart cherry note. Much more
enjoyable the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle when the aromatics and flavors
became more expressive and the wine more cohesive.
Score: 90
2014 Loring Wine Company Russell Family Vineyard Paso Robles Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.55, 125
cases, $50. Release February 2016.
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Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Very ripe fruit profile in this wine
that offers aromas and flavors of sweet blackberry jam and cassis overlaid with oak. Full-bodied and tannic,
akin to some Syrahs, with intensity of fruit flavor and a sweet, fruity finish. Not a classical version of Pinot Noir
but of interest to those looking for a hedonistic experience and something different.
Score: 88
2014 Loring Wine Company Aubaine Vineyard San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.58,
250 cases, $50. Release February 2016.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very fruity nose featuring
darker, very ripe raspberry and cherry aromas with a hint of rose petal and oak in the background. Quite silky in
the mouth with middleweight flavors of purple berries framed by modest tannins. The acidity sticks out as a bit
sharp, particularly on the citrus driven finish.
Score: 89
2014 Loring Wine Company Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.59, 400 cases,
$50. Release February 2016.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. This is an elegant and polished wine
that exudes pinotosity. The nose leads with aromas of black raspberry jam and graham. The mid weight core
11
of dark red cherry and berry fruits is in harmony with the tannins and acidity. Very inviting, with good energy.
Score: 91
2014 Loring Wine Company Kessler-Haak Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.7% alc., pH 3.62, 300
cases, $50. Release February 2016.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry are
dominated by oak driven vanilla and cigar box. The core of black cherry and loganberry fruit is quite vibrant due
to a lively backbone of acidity which sticks out a bit. A thread of tobacco and ash sticks out. About the same
the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Solid, but not special.
Score: 87
2014 Loring Wine Company Rancho La Viña Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.6% alc., pH 3.70, 200
cases, $50. Release February 2016.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Shy, but appealing aromas of
darker berries, rose petal and subtle toast. A mid weight wine driven by a charge of sweet black raspberry and
plum fruit that is accented with a note of spice and green tea. The leather-like texture is of interest, the tannins
are well integrated, and there is some length on the finish that leaves behind a slight bit of alcoholic warmth.
Score: 89
2014 RASI 3 Barrels Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., $42. A blend of fruit from Kessler-Haak, Clos
Pepe and Rancho La Viña vineyards produced by the assistant winemaker, Rachel Silkowski, at Loring Wine Company. Second vintage.
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Moderate reddish purple color in the
glass. Thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish, this wine sports flamboyant aromas of black cherry, spice and
tobacco oak, and delicious flavors of perfectly ripened black cherry and black raspberry fruits clothed in fine
grain tannins. Generous on the attack, then building in intensity on the palate, and offering an extended finish
with deft integration of oak. This wine really stands out.
Score: 93
2014 Loring Wine Company Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.6% alc., pH 3.65, 250 cases,
$24. Released September 2015.
·
Moderate light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Welcome
aromas of lemon, brioche and a touch of nutty oak. Nicely composed and light on its feet, with flavors
of citrus, white peach and toffee that seem to elevate over time in the glass. A very food friendly wine
with notable balance that will sure to please Chardonnay drinkers, especially at this price.
Score: 90
2014 Loring Wine Company Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
14.2% alc., pH 3.78, 250 cases, $24.
Released September 2015.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. A distinctive wine
with aromas of saline-infused ocean breeze, pear and buttery brioche. Slightly viscous on the palate
with flavors of lemon, palmetto, caramel and toast. Somewhat oak driven and a tad shallow, but easy
to like.
Score: 89
2014 Loring Wine Company Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH 3.91, 125 cases,
$40. Released September 2015.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Complex nose leads off
with aromas of lemon, peach, apple, white flower blossom and spice. Noticeably smooth in the mouth with vivid
flavors of lemon and grilled peach. This wine sports admirable balance and a deft integration of oak.
Score: 91
2014 Loring Wine Company Parmelee-Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.6% alc., pH 3.91, 125
cases, $40. Release September 2015.
·
Light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. This is a syrupy ripe,
buttery style of Chardonnay that is rich and heady. Aromas of buttery citrus, kiwi and warm brioche lead to
flavors of citrus, kiwi, pear, peach, warm brioche, butterscotch and toffee. A very Caliesque style. When
sampled the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had become somewhat
ponderous and flat due to lack of acidity. This wine should be consumed in the near term.
Score: 87
2014 Loring Wine Company Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH 3.48,
125 cases, $40. Released September 2015.
·
Moderately light golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Apple
aromas dominate the nose which is quite generous. Lighter weighted, but flavorful, featuring tastes of lemon
and white peach in a classic style with uplifting acidity, a delicate touch of oak, and welcome harmony. This
wine gathers sneaky appeal over time in the glass.
Score: 90
2014 Loring Wine Company Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.5% alc., pH
3.58, 125 cases, $40. Released September 2015.
·
Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. Clean
aromas of buttery brioche, lemon oil, white flower blossom and nutty oak. This wine is somewhat rich with
lemon, pear, stewed apple and toasty oak flavors complimented by a slightly creamy texture, ending with plenty
of sweet, nutty oak.
Score: 89
Manross Wines, Sonoma County, CA
Heather Manross carries on a family winemaking tradition by practicing natural winemaking techniques. Her
approach is rooted in balance and non-manipulation during every phase of the winemaking process. She left a
career in Hollywood’s television and film industry to pursue a career in wine. After a stint at one of the largest
wine retail and wholesale operations in Southern California, she held management positions for several Napa
Valley wineries where she learned the intricacies of winemaking and began to articulate her own winemaking
vision. Heather’s vineyard sources include Donnelly Creek in Anderson Valley, Lone Oak Vineyard in the
Russian River Valley and Hawk’s View Vineyard in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The wines are sold exclusively
through a mailing list at www.manrosswines.com.
2013 Manross Donnelly Creek Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., 50 cases, $54. 30%
whole cluster. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. Alluring perfume of cherry pie glaze, cranberry and spice. A charming and
somewhat delicate wine that delivers plenty of cherry, raspberry and spice flavors. Oak chimes in subtlety as
does the whole cluster producing a bit of herbal seasoning. The modest tannins are fine grain and the cherry
driven finish offers a juicy grip of acidity. Impressive harmony.
Score: 92
Pisoni Estate, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA
2013 Pisoni Estate Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $75 (sold out). A blend of barrels
and different vineyard blocks from the estate property.Each block vinified separately in small lots using
native yeast fermentation, hand punch downs, no fining and no filtering.
·
Moderate reddish purple color
in the glass. Aromas of blackberry reduction, cassis and baking spices gain intensity in the glass over
time. A bit reticent upon opening, but picks up body and appeal with swirling. The mid weight purple
and black fruits really glam onto the palate, finishing with uncommon generosity. The wine offers a
little less extraction in this vintage, but more juicy acidity. When tasted the following day from a
previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine had undergone a remarkable transformation, offering a
plethora of richly flavored fruit on the nose and palate held in check by a firm, balanced structure, and offering
a glorious finish that had become even more generous. I would put this wine in the cellar and check it again in
3 to 5 years, but it will most certainly last well over a decade and a half.
Score: 93-94
Rhys Vineyards, Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
2013 Rhys Home Vineyard San Mateo County Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $79. A mixed field blend from 1.57
acres.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of red berries, rose petal
and whole cluster spice. A daunting wine today, even when tasted the following day from a previously opened
and re-corked bottle, with muscular tannins that dominate the charming black cherry fruit. Whole cluster adds
cinnamon and other baking spices along with stem notes. Softly textured, the wine’s tannins tend to ameliorate
some over time in the glass allowing the cherry fruit to shine. Put this wine in the cellar for at least 3 to 5 years
to allow the tannins to soften.
Score: 89-91
2013 Rhys Alpine Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir
12.8% alc., $79. Rhys selection plus heritage
clones from 11 acres located at an elevation of 1230 to 1400 feet.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Lovely aromas of dark red fruits, rose petal, and stem stream from the glass, becoming more expressive
the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. The light to mid weight array of red and purple
fruits accented with spice and herb notes is quite approachable. Bright, fresh and charming, with modest
tannins and a lively cut of acidity in the background.
Score: 91-92
Willowbrook Cellars, Sebastopol, CA
Winemaker Joe Otos formed Willowbrook Cellars in 2001, partnering with retired technology entrepreneur John
Tracy and retired sales executive Ed Sillari, both of whom had moved to Sonoma County to pursue the wine
business. In 2003, Joe began to seek out small, special vineyards in the area and this led to a long term
collaboration with the Kaufman Sunnyslope Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain. The Willowbrook Estate Vineyard
Pinot Noir is made from fruit from John Tracy’s vineyard. Pinot Noirs are also bottled using fruit from Carneros,
Sonoma Coast and Monterey County. Visit www.willowbrookcellars.com for ordering details.
2013 Willowbrook Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 250 cases, $42. From a 6-acre vineyard
on Burnside Road. Clones 115, Swan and Calera. Gold Medal Sonoma County Harvest Fair.
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Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Deep
black cherry aroma with a pleasing hint of spice. The mid weight plus core of Bing cherry fruit is quite flavorful
and accented with notes of cola and smoky oak. Impeccable balance with submerged tannins and a generous and
juicy cherry finish.
Score: 90
2013 Willowbrook Kaufman Sunnyslope Vineyard Sonoma Mountain Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 207 cases, $42. Double Gold Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Vineyard planted
in 1994 and owned by Jim and Sue Kaufman, this 6-acre vineyard sits on the cooler north side of the Sonoma
Mountain AVA. Clone 777.
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Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. A welcome perfume of fresh cherries
and cranberries great the drinker. Elegantly composed, with charming flavors of cherry, raspberry, cola and
smoky oak. The tannins are refined and the finish is particularly notable for its silkiness and extended length.
Score: 91
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