Recently Tasted Notable California Chardonnays
2015 Balletto Teresa’s Unoaked Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.7% alc., pH 3.31, TA 0.70,
2,910 cases, $20. Robert Young clone.
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Light golden yellow color in the glass. An excellent example of
this Chardonnay genre exhibiting aromas of ripe green apple, guava and pineapple, with flavors of
Meyer lemon, apricot, apple and pear. Slightly creamy, with bright acidity, and a tight, soprano finish.
Score: 91
2014 Balletto Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.3% alc., $28.
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Moderately light golden yellow color in the
glass. A solid barrel fermented wine showing barrel influence through aromas and flavors of warm croissant,
toast, caramel and honey accentuating the fruit notes of baked apple, lemon creme accented by a touch of
butter. An easy drinking table wine that finishes with juicy goodness.
Score: 88
2013 Balletto Cider Ridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.9% alc., pH 3.48, TA 0.56, 485
cases, 480 cases, $38.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. The mantle of oak in this wine is subtle and
complimentary. Aromas of lemon, yellow peach and salt air lead to a moderately rich core of baked apple,
lemon pie and ripe nectarine flavors. The satiny texture and long lemony finish appeals.
Score: 91
2013 Balletto Sexton Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.8% alc., 480 cases, $38.
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Moderately light
golden yellow color in the glass. This wine has more vibrant
bravado compared to the more creamy Cedar Ridge bottling
and speaks more of a “stony minerality.” Citrus-driven, with a
hint of lightly buttered brioche, this silky wine finishes with a
steely resolve that is thirst quenching.
Score: 93
2014 Bernardus Soberanes Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.7% alc., 280 cases, $40.
Released April 1, 2016.
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Moderate golden straw color in the glass. The nose offers appealing aromas of salted
apple, lemon, grapefruit and wet path. Sleek and refined on the palate, with grilled lemon, apple and slight
caramel flavors, finishing with an infusion of acidity that elevates the experience.
Score: 92
2014 Bernardus Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.5% alc., 509 cases, $40.
Released April 1, 2016.
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Moderate golden straw color in the glass. A savory nose leads with aromas of lemon
zest, crabapple, dried herbs and dried flowers. Creamy citrus, white peach, buttery toffee and caramel flavors
satisfy. An oak-infused but not oak dominant style with good richness.
Score: 90
2014 Bernardus Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.7% alc., 392 cases, $40.
Released April 1, 2016.
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Moderate golden straw color in the glass. Very clean and fresh scent of yellow orchard
fruits and freshly peeled apple. Slightly viscous on the palate, with vibrant flavors of yellow peach, nectarine,
lemon and pineapple. The finish is seductively silky and refreshing.
Score: 93
2015 Bucher Unoaked Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.4% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.70,154 cases,
$30. Released April 1, 2016. Wente clone 4 and Robert Young clone 17. Harvest Brix 22.3º average.
Aged 5 months in 100% stainless steel.
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Very light golden yellow color in the glass. The scent of
tropical fruits, lemon oil and butterscotch lead off. Highly flavorful, with layers of lemon, pineapple,
crisp apple, and honeydew melon goodness in a superbly balanced wine that is slightly creamy in the
mouth and finishes with some purpose. I am not usually a big fan of unoaked Chardonnay, but I found
this wine to be extremely inviting.
Score: 93
2014 Bucher Rio Oro Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.4% alc., pH 3.6, TA 0.60. $40. Released
October 16, 2015. The Bucher family has farmed in the Middle Reach of the Russian River Valley for
over 50 years. Wente clone 4 and Robert Young clone 17. Harvest Brix 22.6º average.Aged 9 months
in French oak barrels, 20% new.
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Light golden yellow color in the glass. Lavish aromas of lemony
custard, Golden Delicious apple, wildflower honey and brioche. Sleek, bright and crisp on the palate
with sumptuous flavors of lemon, grapefruit and apple with a compliment of oak infused blond caramel
and honeyed nuts. Beautifully crafted, with sound acidity and noticeable finishing length.
Score: 94
2014 J. Lohr October Night Arroyo Seco Monterey Chardonnay
14.22% alc., pH 3.47, TA 0.66,
RS .34 g/100 ml, 1,500 cases, $25. 100% estate grapes, 100% barrel fermented, 100% malolactic
fermentation, and aged on the lees for 10 months in Francois Frères French oak barrels, 50% new.
Largely Dijon 809 (Musqué) clone, with lesser amounts of Dijon 95 and 96 and a small amount of
Hyde Wente selection. Harvest Brix 26.4º.
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Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas
of citrus oil, white flower and butter dissipate a bit over time in the glass. Richly flavored, featuring
lemon, Golden Delicious apple, and pear with slight accents of oak-driven vanilla, honey and
hazelnut. Slightly creamy in the mouth with an uplifting lemony finish. A nicely crafted, bolder
California style of Chardonnay representing excellent value.
Score: 89
2014 Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
13.5% alc., 4,600 cases, $55.
Released May 2016. Estate grown. Aged 13 months in 35% new and 65% used French oak puncheons and
barrels.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Very complex nose offering aromas of lemon, grapefruit,
nectarine, buttery brioche, butterscotch and petrichor. Driven by brisk acidity in the mouth with flavors of lemon,
yellow grapefruit and toast this wine finishes in a thirst quenching, soprano fashion. Acid lovers will celebrate
this style.
Score: 90
2013 La Rochelle Recherché Reserve Ferrington Vineyard Anderson Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc.,
$65. Robert Young clone. Winemaker Tom Stutz has almost four decades of experience crafting Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. A nicely composed wine with appealing scents of
lemon, Asian pear, pineapple, honey and a little nutty oak. Discreetly concentrated and ripe in character, with
flavors of lemon curd, baked yellow apple, toffee, butterscotch and creme caramel. A good snap of acidity
creates vibrancy in the wine.
Score: 90
2014 MacPhail Pratt Vineyard Vine Hill Road Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH
3.53, TA 0.62, RS .09 g/100 ml., 251 cases, $45. Mt Eden, Robert Young and Dijon 96 clones. Barrel
fermented, 100% malolactic fermentation, and aged 17 months on the lees in French oak barrels, 27%
new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Bright aromas of peeled
apple, peach and acid-driven steeliness. Fully ripened flavors of peach, pear and apple are brought to
a vibrant high with a lively acid backbone. Very clean and balanced, with a cleansing finish. So easy to
drink, you could easily polish off a bottle before you realize it.
Score: 94
2014 MacPhail Vagon Blanc Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
14.3% alc.,
pH 3.66, TA 0.53, RS .11 g/100ml, 120 cases, 65$. Sourced from Pratt
Vineyard Vine Hill Road and Gap’s Crown Vineyard (50% each). Mt
Eden, Robert Young, and Dijon 76 and 96 clones. Barrel fermented,
100% malolactic fermentation, batonnage once weekly through primary
fermentation. Aged 17 months on lees in French oak barrels, 15% new.
Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass.
Lovely aromas of golden apple, pear and buttery brioche. Ripely flavored
notes of yellow stone fruits, yellow apple, pear, lemon and honey are
enticing as is the slightly viscous, seductive texture and the clean and
focused finish. The fruit is the star in this wine that deftly integrates a
restrained use of oak.
Score: 93
Migration All vineyard-designate Chardonnays are vinified identically, including 75% malolactic fermentation,
and aging 10 months in 35% new oak and 10% stainless steel. The intent is to reveal the unique terroir of each
vineyard site. Tasted side-by-side, I can confirm the goal.
2014 Migration Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., 7,860 cases, $32. Released March 2016.
Sourced from Jewell, Searby, Bellflower and Orsi Eastside vineyards. 75% malolactic fermentation, 10% aged
in stainless steel.
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Light golden yellow color in the glass. Reserved aromas of lemon oil and white peach lead to
unassuming flavors of lemon, pear and nectarine fruits framed by bracing acidity that shows up on the
cleansing finish.
Score: 87
2014 Migration Dierberg Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
14.1% alc., 162 cases, $55. Released
March 2016.
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Light golden yellow color in the glass. The nose is more expressive than the palate, offering bright
aromas of lemon peel, spice, vanilla creme and caramel. Somewhat reserved and even austere in the mouth,
with flavors of lemon and brioche. The mouthwatering acidity really sticks out.
Score: 89
2014 Migration Searby Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay
13.5% alc., 162 cases, $55. Released
March 2016. Vineyard dates to 1972. Dry farmed, low yields, old vine Rued clone.
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Light golden yellow color in
the glass. Nicely presented aromas of yellow apple, canned peach, white flower bouquet and brown butter.
Slightly creamy on the lifted palate, with flavors of lemon wafer, apple and melon. Nicely composed, with
vibrant acidity and an uplifting finish.
Score: 90
2014 Migration Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
13.5% alc., 235 cases, $55.
Released March 2016. Clone 4 planted in 1982.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. A restrained, but
pleasing style with aromas of lemon, pastry creme and chalk dust. Nicely balanced, with juicy citrus and green
apple flavors. Highly satisfying but I would have liked a tad more depth and dimension.
Score: 91
2014 Migration Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
13.5% alc., 165 cases, $55. Released March 2016.
Sourced from blocks that include the original 1973 plantings and 1991
plantings in limestone-rich soils.
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Very light golden yellow color in the
glass. Plenty of interest to offer on the nose, with aromas of citrus,
tropical fruits, white peach, banana and crème brûlée. Citrus-based
flavors have a steely resolve in this edgy and highly enjoyable offering
that speaks more of grapes and stony minerality than oak. Clearly the
best of the 2014 Migration Chardonnays.
Score: 92
2014 Oceans Churning Sangiacomo El Novillero Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay
14.1% alc., 93 cases,
$50. Heritage Wente clone 4.
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Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Enticing aromas of baked apple pie,
baking spice and brioche. A riper and well oaked style with flavors of yellow apple, grilled peach, honey and
caramel. The wine’s fruit has a slightly maderized character and is more stone fruit driven than citrus and
mineral based. Not classic, but enjoyable in its style.
Score: 90
2014 Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay
13.9% alc.,
pH 3.30-3.52, TA 0.68-0.82, $35. An array of Dijon clones
grown in outstanding vineyards such as Bien Nacido and
Solomon Hills. Feral yeast primary fermentation and feral
malolactic conversion. Aged 12 months on the lees in neutral
French oak, 6 months in stainless steel.
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Light golden yellow
color in the glass. The nose comes at you with hi-tone aromas
of dried apricot, ocean breeze salinity and a complimentary butter note.
Slightly viscous in the mouth, with flavors of green apple, citrus and white
peach. A restrained style without oak intrusion, finishing with steely
resolve.
Score: 93
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