Recently Tasted California Wines

2016 Anaba Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

13.7% alc., pH 3.38, TA 0.70, 933 cases, $36. Sourced from Denmark, J McK Estate, and Dutton Ranch (Mill Station and Shop Block) vineyards. Barrel fermented, 50% MLF, aged 17 months sur lie in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Bright aromas of lemon, yellow apple, brioche, yellow flower blossom and lychee. Slightly oily in mouthfeel, with flavors of lemon, pineapple, yellow apple and cinnamon spice. Nicely composed with some finishing length. A bit quirky because of the cinnamon spice flavor, but otherwise highly enjoyable. Score: 92

2015 Au Bon Climat La Bauge-Au-dessus Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $35. The name of this wine translates to “wild party up stairs.” Grapes are sourced from Bien Nacido and Le Bon Climat vineyards. Aged 24 months in Francois Frères French oak barrels, 50% new. Lightly fined with egg whites and bottled unfiltered. · Light ruby red color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, burnt tobacco, sandalwood and ash. Relatively light in weight but flavorful, with a core of red cherry fruit embraced by oak. Elegantly styled, with gossamer tannins and some finishing generosity. Fine, but leans a little bit too much on oak. Score: 89

2016 Au Bon Climat Runway Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 250 cases, $40. A 16- acre vineyard planted in 2008, located next door to Bien Nacido Vineyards. Aged in Francois Frères French oak barrels for almost 24 months, 30% new. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of cherry, raspberry, pine sap, floral spirit and toasty oak. The mid weight flavors of black cherry and spice are nicely backed by tender oak. Beautifully balanced, with silky tannins and some finishing length. Score: 92

2016 Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $40. This bottling is part of the winery’s Santa Barbara Historic Vineyards Collection. Much of the fruit that Au Bon Climat sources is fruit that has been planted “exclusively” for the winery. 50% Block 2 and 50% Block 11. Main clones are 667 and 115. 50% whole clusters. Aged 18 months in Francois Frères French oak barrels, 80% new. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Shy, but pleasing aromas of black cherry and tender oak. A very giving wine on the palate, with a gorgeous core of black cherry fruit in a mid weight style. Silky, with polished tannins, a slight savory, dried leaf character, and a seductive grip of cherry on the finish. An impeccably balanced wine that is drinking perfectly now. Score: 94

2016 Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $50. This bottling is part of the winery’s Santa Barbara Historic Vineyards Collection. Extended cold soak, aged 20 months in Francois Frères French oak barrels. · Light garnet color in the glass. Reserved, but pleasant aromas of oak-kissed red cherry and berry. Admirable in every way, with impressive harmony and class. Red fruits enhanced with baking spices are featured in this middleweight styled wine that offers great elegance, hidden tannins, and a persistent finish. This is the best example from this vineyard that I have tasted in recent memory. Score: 94

2015 Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 800 cases, $50. Estate bottled. Very heavy bottle, long cork. Sourced from the finest lots at Bien Nacido and Au Bon Climat vineyards. Block 2 from Le Bon Climat Vineyard was planted in 1994 with a wide mix of clones including 103, 113, 114, 115, 2A, Mt. Eden and some Pinot Meunier. Block 11 at Bien Nacido Vineyard is planted with clones 667, 777, 115, 2A, Swan and Jackson in 1997. 50% Dijon and 50% traditional California selections. Jim’s son Knox arrived in 1998 and this is a distinct bottling to honor him. Aged 22 months in French oak barrels. Fined with egg whites. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The nose offers primarily non-fruit aromas of fertile earth, burnt tobacco and toast. Much more enticing on the palate, with mid weight flavors of Bing cherry and noticeable toasty oak. There is a healthy, but not intrusive backbone of tannins. Considerably more appealing when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle when the oak had become more subservient to the fruit. Decant if you plan to drink now, but further cellaring is a better option. Score: 94

2015 Au Bon Climat Isabelle California Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., 750 cases, $50. Very heavy bottle, long cork. This bottling was inaugurated in 1994 to honor Jim Clendenen’s daughter Isabelle. This unique wine is a blend of barrels from the best vineyards not only from the Santa Maria Valley, but the Russian River Valley and even Monterey County in some years. The selection is done by Jim in the Au Bon Climat winery cellar and each year the blend for Isabelle is different. Isabelle is the richest Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir with loads of intensity and power, yet it remains balanced and food friendly. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, sous-bois, ash and gentle oak come to the fore over time in the glass. The wellspiced red cherry fruit enters with a purpose, saturates the mid palate and exits with a ridiculously long finish. Nicely balanced and very approachable now, with bold but friendly tannins and energizing natural acidity. This beauty bowls you over.You will want to drink this one all by yourself. Score: 96

2016 Etude Deer Camp Vineyard Grace Benoist Ranch Carneros Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., pH 3.60, TA 0.56, 479 cases, $85. Estate grown. The site is planted primarily to a Martini selection of Pinot Noir. It is a California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance vineyard. This wine contains Martini selection along with Dijon 113 and 114.This small vineyard at Grace Benoist Ranch was named after an old deer camp structure that stands at the base of the site. 3 to 5-day cold soak, small % whole cluster, extended maceration. Aged 14 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Beautifully perfumed with aromas of red cherry, baking spice and sandalwood. Light to mid weight in style, and red cherry-driven There is a little purple berry and dark chocolate tastes as well. Rather elegantly composed and nicely balanced, with a modest finish. Score: 90

2016 Etude Heirloom Grace Benoist Ranch Carneros Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.55, 597 cases, $95. Estate grown. This wine is produced from nine shy-bearing, heirloom selections of Pinot Noir that produce small bunches and even smaller berries. 3 to 5-day cold soak. 20% whole cluster. Extended maceration. Aged 13 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Gleeful aromas of dark cherry, blueberry, fertile earth and dark rose petal. A wine of class and character, with a discrete concentration of dark red and black cherry flavors framed by an ample tannic backbone. Clearly tastes different and more mysterious than many domestic Pinot Noirs. My only nit is a slight bit of alcoholic warmth on the finish. Score: 93

2016 Etude Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $50. Clones 667, 777, 113, 115, Pommard 4 and 5. Aged 12 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. A toned and trim wine with enticing aromas of dark berries, exotic spices and rose petal. There is a discrete well of black cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice and underlain with a vital arrow of acidity. No tannins to speak of make this wine easy drinking. Score: 93

2016 Etude North Canyon Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.63, TA 0.56, $55. The vineyard sits along the Santa Maria river bench in a secluded canyon that protects it against the renowned maritime influences. A variety of rootstocks and clones are planted in calcareous clay sandstone which differs from the valley’s defining marine mixture of ancient sea bed, clay loam and sand. Sustainability in Practice (SIP) certified. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. There is both weight and weightlessness in this magnificently balanced wine. Aromas of boysenberry, spice and mushroom draw you into the glass. A delicious array of purple and black berry fruits are accented by a hint of oak and an appealing earthiness. The righteous, melt-in-your-mouth texture is seductive. A wine of immense charm that finishes on point. Score: 96

2016 Etude Grace Benoist Ranch Carneros Chardonnay

13.6% alc., $32 . Estate grown. A variety of clones and selections. Gently whole-cluster pressed then fermented in neutral French oak barrels. Aged 11 months with weekly stirring of the lees for the initial two months of aging. · Very light golden yellow color in the glass. Engaging aromas of lemon curd, pineapple, pear, butter and pastry creme. A well-fruited style, featuring flavors of pineapple, lemon, kiwi and vanilla. Polished in the mouth, with decent acidity and a pleasing, but unassuming finish. Score: 90

2017 Fallon Place Estines Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., 175 cases, $42. Released May 2019. Sourced from a 4-acre vineyard off Olivet Road in the Laguna Ridge area of the Russian River Valley. Organic grapes. Clones 667 and 777. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with scents of grilling spice, red cherry, red raspberry and friendly oak. Gentle in the mouth in a light to mid weight style offering flavors of red cherry and berry, blueberry and spice. The silky mouthfeel satisfies as does the extended, raspberry-infused finish. The wine holds interest over time in the glass and was still fine when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93

2017 Fallon Place Black Family Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., 100 cases, $46. Release October 2019.Sourced from a 30- acre vineyard. Clone 777 from two blocks. 100% de-stemmed, aged 11 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Invigorating aromas of dark red berry, spice and underbrush. More concentration and fruit presence than the Estines Vineyard bottling, offering flavors of dark red and purple berries underlain with a hint of earthiness. The texture is dreamy and the wine is impeccably balanced. Equally redeeming when sampled the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93

2017 Fallon Place La Cruz Vineyard Petaluma Gap Chardonnay

13.4% alc., 100 cases, $38. Released May 2019. Aged 11 months in neutral French oak barrels. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass with a slight haze (unfiltered). Exalted aromas of lemon curd, pineapple, honey, Golden Delicious apple and green undergrowth. Slightly creamy in the mouth, with flavors of lemon pastry and cut apple. Not particularly acid-driven, but has sufficient vitality. The lemon-infused finish is very satisfying. Score: 90

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.59, 5,000 cases, $38. The foundation for this wine is the Sangiacomo Vineyard and Beckstoffer Vineyard located in the heart of Carneros. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 33% new, 67% once and twice-filled. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The nose leads with aromas of red cherry gumdrop, fertile soil and sandalwood. The mid weight essence of red cherry fruit is embellished with lavish oak. Silky in the mouth, with trim tannins and a modest finish. One thinks oak when drinking this wine. Score: 87

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Lewis Vineyard Reserve Napa Valley Carneros Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., $70. Lewis Vineyard is 78 acres (68 acres of Chardonnay and 10 acres of Pinot Noir) located in the heart of Napa- Carneros near the shores of San Pablo Bay. Restricting soils of dense clay loam. Predominant maritime influence. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Lovely perfume of black cherry, cardamom spice and pipe smoke. Sleek and easily approachable in a mid weight style offering flavors of black cherry and boysenberry with mild toasty oak in the background. A commendable offering with nothing to criticize except that a slight sense of alcoholic warmth lingers at the end. Score: 92

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay

14.4% alc., pH 3.44, TA 0.61, 25,000 cases, $38. Barrel fermented in 34% new, 33% once and 33% twice-filled French oak barrels for 9 months. Aged on the lees with hand stirring regularly. · Very light golden yellow color in the glass. Exuberant aromas of pineapple, lemon drop, mango, butter creme and vanilla. A friendly wine that grows on you over time, offering flavors of lemon, pineapple and vanilla creme. The comforting texture is slightly oily and the acidity is well woven into the fabric of the wine. Score: 90

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Lewis Vineyard Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay

14.5% alc., $70. · Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. Lively aromas of lemon curd, pineapple, Golden Delicious apple, and white flower blossom. Bright and vibrant in character with obvious class, offering flavors of lemon-lime, pear and green apple. A bit reserved in fruit intensity, yet offering upbeat vitality, and finishing with a pleasing cut of acidity on the finish. Score: 93

2016 Gary Farrell Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., pH 3.45, TA 0.67, 513 cases, $65. Released May 2019.Sourced from the Frost Ranch. Wente selection. 15% added whole clusters. 6-day cold soak, 10-15 days post fermentation extended maceration. Aged on the primary lees for 15 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. The aromas of purple grape, boysenberry, cardamom spice and burnt tobacco are intoxicating. The discretely concentrated flavors of black cherry and boysenberry are accompanied by the slightest herbaceous note and citric energy. A spirited wine with impressive juiciness, admirable balance and an acid-driven, uplifting finish. A delightful wine with beautifully-ripened fruit and easy accessibility. Score: 94

2016 Gary Farrell McDonald Mountain Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.73, 718 cases, $70. Released May 2019.Vineyard is located in the cool Sebastopol Hills where the fog first arrives from the Pacific Ocean in the morning, and burns off last in the afternoon. Vineyard was planted in 2008 in Goldridge sandy loam to clones 115, 667, 777, Pommard, “828,” and Elite (a suitcase selection). 40% whole clusters added. 5-day cold soak and a 10 to 15 day post fermentation extended maceration. Aged on the primary lees 15 months in 40% new French oak barrels. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Deep aromas of blackest cherry, spice, and burnt tobacco. The mid weight flavors of black cherry and pomegranate are ingratiating as is the grip of natural acidity. There is a slight vegetal note. This wine is promising, but does not have the flavor intensity of the Bacigalupi bottling and displays a mild bit of gruff tannins on the lengthy finish. Score: 91

2016 Gary Farrell Westside Farms Russian River Valley Chardonnay

13.9% alc., pH 3.25, TA 0.69, 674 cases, $55. Released May 2019. Vines planted in 1989 to clone 4. Harvest Brix 22.5º. Aged 9 months in 35% new French oak barrels and 65% one to three-year-old neutral French oak barrels and one 500-liter French oak puncheon. · Moderate golden yellow color in the glass. One bottle: Noticeable matchstick (reduction) along with aromas of lemon. Very reductive on the palate, with a flinty overtone to the lemon, butter cake and yellow apple fruit flavors. Rather austere, with a silky texture and a quenching, lemony finish. Second bottle: Aromas of lemon oil, pineapple honey and croutons. Somewhat rich, with ripe fruit flavors of pineapple, yellow apple, honey on a biscuit and caramel. Slightly creamy in texture, with a bit of tannin showing up on the dry finish. Score: 90

2016 Gary Farrell Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay

13.9% alc., pH 3.24, TA 0.64, 363 cases, $65. Released May 2019. Clones 76 and 15 from two blocks of the Allen Vineyard. Harvest Brix 22.5º. Fermented and aged on the primary lees 9 months in 35% new French oak barrels and 65% one to three-year-old neutral French oak barrels and one 500-liter French oak puncheon. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. Shy, but pleasant aromas of Meyer lemon and cut yellow apple. Discretely rich in flavor offering joyous flavors of citrus and honey and a subtle salinity. Slightly viscous in texture, with a long, citrus-driven finish that is quenching and urges another sip. Score: 93

2015 Jigar Peters Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., 98 cases, $47. 100% Pommard. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Awkward aromas of earthy flora, bourbon, blackberry and raisin. Velvety in the mouth in a mid weight plus, fruit-driven style offering flavors of black fruits including prune. Lacking in vigor due to demure acidity and displaying more toasty oak than I prefer. This is a chunky, overly-ripe-fruited wine that lacks energy. Score: 86

2016 Jigar Graham Family Vineyard Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., 319 cases, $55. Multiple clones including 23 and 777. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Appealing aromas of fresh Bing cherry and ripe strawberry. Dark red fruits are featured in this mid weight styled wine that shows good oak restraint and dog’s paw tannins. The finish is shallow but offers a bright cut of acidity that is the most appealing feature of the wine. Score: 89

2016 La Crema Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.55, TA 0.61, $40. Sourced from 9 grower and estate vineyards across the Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill and Green Valley AVAs. Estate vineyards include Barbieri, Bellflower, Bones Road, Olivet, Piner and Ross Road. Clones 777, 115, 667, Pommard, “828,” 114, 23 and 2A. 100% de-stemmed, 70% whole berries in tank. 3 to 5-day cold soak, fermented in open-top tanks, no racking until blending prior to bottling. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 35% new. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, and oak-driven spice and toast lead to a full-bodied experience sporting waves of oak-kissed, almost syrupy, black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors. Very ripe fruited with toasty oak suppressing the Russian River Valley footprint. Score: 88

2017 La Crema Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.5% alc., pH 3.37, TA 0.58, $30. Gently whole-cluster pressed, barrel fermented in 33% new French oak barrels with occasional lees stirring, and aged 10 months. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. A flamboyant wine with aromas of pineapple, yellow apple and buttery croissant. On the palate there is a rich display of well-ripened citrus and honey flavors with a delicate backing of toasty oak. Soothing in texture with integrated alcohol. Score: 91

2016 LaRue Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $60. A blend of Rice-Spivak and Thorn Ridge vineyards. Dijon clones and Swan selection (Rice-Spivak) and 20-year-old Pommard and 115 clones (Thorn Ridge). · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Fruit aromas of cherry and red berry along with the herbal character of whole cluster. Dark red and black cherry fruit flavors along with spice and savory herbs are featured in this mid weight styled wine. The wine is shot through with acidity creating plenty of energy. Score: 90

2016 LaRue Rice-Spivak Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.4% alc., 150 cases, $70. Sourced from a 6-acre vineyard south of the town of Sebastopol. Goldridge sand loam and volcanic ash soils. Dijon clones and Swan selection. Aged 20 months in French oak barrels, 33% new. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Seductive aroma of fresh cherry and baking spices. Delicious flavors of cherry and raspberry with an appealing accent of spice. Silky tannins, with concealed oak and an extremely long finish that seems to last a minute. Score: 93

2016 LaRue Thorn Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.2% alc., $ Allocated. Vineyard is planted west of the town of Sebastopol and 60is farmed by Ted Klopp and his daughter Lauren. Sourced from two blocks planted in Goldridge sandy loam soils to Pommard and 115 clones. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Forward aromas of dark cherry and gentle oak are enticing. A mid weight plus styled wine with features of black cherry and blueberry and a complimentary, subtle earthy tone. A little more ripeness and concentration than the Rice-Spivak bottling but equally enamoring. Commendable balance with a satiny mouthfeel. Even better when tasted the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Score: 93

2017 LaRue Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

12.5% alc., 50 cases, $ Allocated. Clone 4 planted in 1982. Aged for 17 months in French oak barrels. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas of yellow citrus and peach draw you into the glass. A wine of sophistication and breeding that pleases on entry, in the middle and on the finish. There is plenty of lemon and yellow apple flavor but the wine does not veer to tropical California ripeness. A spear of acidity adds vitality, the bashful oak adds nuance and the uplifting, lip-smacking finish is memorable. A perfect marriage of pristine and invigorating natural acidity. Score: 95

2017 Lula Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.60, 540 cases, $45. A majority of the fruit was sourced from the 15-acre Lula Vineyard planted in 2013 and located in the “deep end” of the Anderson Valley. Pommard and Dijon clones. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, 10 to 15 day post fermentation extended maceration, basket pressed, and aged 10 months in new and used French oak barrels. Lightly fined and filtered before bottling. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, clay and redwood lead to a more appealing palate of mid weight dark red cherry and berry fruits with a touch of spice. The oak is well integrated, and the tannins are fine-grain and easygoing. There is a sense of a much higher alcohol than the stated ABV of 14.0%. Score: 88

2017 Lula Peterson Vineyard Mendocino Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.60, 520 cases, $45. This vineyard, planted in 1999, is located in the mountain town of Comptche. Pommard and Dijon clones 667, 777 and 115. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated yeast, 10 to 15 day extended maceration post fermentation, and aged 10 months in new and used French oak barrels. Lightly fined and filtered before bottling. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. The nose marries aromas of dark cherry with espresso. Soft in the mouth in a middleweight style, featuring oak-kissed dark cherry fruit flavor. Very approachable, with integrated tannins but only a modest finish. The sumptuous oak dominates the wine. Score: 87

2017 Lula Costa Vineyard Mendocino Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.59, 480 cases, $45. Sourced from a 5-acre vineyard planted in 1998 in the mountain town of Comptche (8 miles southeast of the village of Mendocino). 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated yeast, 10 to 15 day post fermentation extended maceration. Basket pressed and aged 10 months in new and used French oak barrels. Lightly fined and filtered before bottling. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Some pleasing aromas of red cherry are subdued by oak-driven aromas of toast and almond. Light to mid weight in extraction, offering flavors of red cherry and berry framed by suede tannins. The slightly astringent and tart finish has modest length. Score: 88

2017 Lula Rescue Block Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.0% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.64, 90 cases, $60. Label has a picture of “Honey,” a rescue winery dog and tasting room greeter. This bottling honors the 1,000 vines that were revived on the Lula property when purchased as well as the rescued winery dog. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated yeast, 10 to 15 day post fermentation extended maceration, and aged 10 months in new and used French oak barrels. Lightly fined and filtered before bottling. · Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of plum, blackberry, dried herbs and clay come to the fore. Succulent and sweet in a mid weight style with a core of blackberry fruit backed by well-matched tannins and complimentary oak. Suave in texture with a flourish of fruit on the finish. Score: 90

2017 Lula Founder’s Cuvée Mendocino Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.40, TA 0.63, 100 cases, $50. 50% clone 777 and Pommard from Lula Vineyard and 50% Peterson and Costa vineyards located in Comptche. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated yeast, 10 to 15 day post fermentation extended maceration, and aged 10 months in new and used French oak barrels. Lightly fined and filtered before bottling. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Well-ripened fruit aromas of blackberry, black currant and raisin lead to a mid weight styled wine that is richly endowed with an array of well-spiced and somewhat earthy dark fruits. A firm tannic backbone supports the hefty fruit load and there is enough acidity for adequate vitality. An intensely fruity finish leaves an impression. Score: 91

2017 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 5,100 cases, $51. A blend of grapes from six vineyards. · Moderately dark garnet color in the glass. Aromas of blackberry syrup, cassis, spice and earthy flora. The mid weight plus array of sweet purple and black berry fruits is framed by modest tannins and friendly oak. The most easygoing wine in the 2017 Pinot Noir lineup. Score: 89

2017 Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 730 cases, $68. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Aromas of dark berry jam, wine cave, old book and vanilla. Mid weight plus flavors of blackberry, cassis and pomegranate with a touch of iron. A big, bold, ripely-fruited wine with supportive tannins. The deep wall of fruit has charm, the wine stays in balance, but the wine enters a little stronger than it finishes. Score: 90

2017 Merry Edwards Coopersmith Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 730 cases, $66. Estate grown. Vineyard is located northwest of Sebastopol in the Laguna Ridge. UCD 37 clone (Mt Eden). · Dark garnet color in the glass. The aromatic profile is dominated by oak. A plethora of well-ripened boysenberry and dusty blackberry fruits have a noticeable overlay of vanilla and toast. Silky in the mouth, with cohesive tannins and acidity, and a lengthy finish. Score: 90

2017 Merry Edwards Bucher Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 580 cases, $63. Pommard and Mt Eden clones. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Aromas of the blackest cherry, earthy flora and smoke. A wine of imposing ruggedness and drying tannins, with a full-bodied charge of blackberry and prune flavors along with an underlying note of guaiacol (typical of this vineyard). The copious, very ripe fruit coats the palate, but the harsh tannins make for fatiguing drinking. This wine drinks like a young Cabernet Sauvignon. Score: 87

2017 Merry Edwards Georgeanne Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 540 cases, $63. Estate grown. An estate vineyard located on Westside Road near the northern border of the AVA planted to Mt Eden clone. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Very shy aromas of blackberry jam. Hard to coax much out of the nose. Monster fruit and hard tannins greet the palate. Flavors of blackest cherry and black raspberry are backed by trim oak. The wine combines some fruit intensity and length with tannic muscle on the finish. Score: 88

2017 Merry Edwards Warren’s Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., 240 cases, $63. This wine is ‘A Legend Reborn.’ This is the first vintage of a wine that traces its lineage to Windsor Gardens Vineyard that was farmed by Lee Martinelli Jr. Lee thought that Martini clone was planted in this unirrigated vineyard. Merry Edwards named the property Windsor Gardens upon its first bottling as a Merry Edwards vineyard designate. The wine quickly developed a cult following. The developer who owned the property removed the old vines after the 2003 harvest to make way for new tract homes. Warren’s Hill was planted on a hilltop in the Green Valley of Russian River Valley in 2012 using budwood Lee Martinelli had preserved from Windsor Gardens. The name of the vineyard is a tribute to Merry’s son Warren who passed away in 2006. · Dark garnet color in the glass. Pleasant aromas of blackberry reduction sauce, loganberry, spice and vanilla cone. A full charge of purple and blackberry fruits greets the palate with intention. A bit of oak-driven vanilla and toast is in the mix. The tannins are quite modest and there is some finishing grace and length. Score: 90

2016 Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay

14.3% alc., $66. · Light golden yellow color in the glass. Aromatically pleasing, with scents of pineapple, yellow peach, grilled lemon and clarified butter. Sleek in the mouth with a rich entry and mid palate load of citrus, ripe peach and vanilla flavors. Very agreeable, in a nicely balanced style. Score: 91

2017 Morgan Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., pH 3.44, TA 0.63, $35. Sourced from Double L, Rosella’s, Boekenoogen, KW and Tondre vineyards. 100% de-stemmed, native and cultured yeast fermentation in small, open-top tanks. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Light garnet color in the glass. The nose offers primarily oak-driven aromas of toast, nuts and smoke, and more delicate secondary aromas of cherry. Light in weight, with oak-embellished flavors of cherry and raspberry. Fresh and juicy, with easygoing tannins and a short finish. Score: 88

2017 Morgan Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.47, TA 0.62, 94 cases, $65. “Pisoni clone.” 100% de-stemmed, fermented in open-top tanks. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Light ruby red color in the glass. Dark red cherry and raspberry aromas and flavors fuel this lighter weighted wine that is rather demure. The fruit just doesn’t pop and the wine is a bit shallow on the follow through and finish. Score: 89

2017 Morgan Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.69, 991 cases, $65. Vineyard certified organic in 2002, but has been conscientiously farmed in this method since the original plantings in 1997. Clones 114, 115, 667, 777, Pommard and Swan.100% de-stemmed, whole berry fermentation with native and cultured yeasts. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Lovely aromas of black cherry, blueberry and spice cabinet. The wine gains intensity over time in the glass, displaying highly flavorful boysenberry and black raspberry fruits. Seamless in texture with deft oak management and integrated tannins, finishing with open arms. I liked this wine more when sampled from a bottle that had been opened for several hours. Score: 93

2017 Morgan Garys’ Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir

13.3% alc., pH 3.43, TA 0.69, 80 cases, $65. “Pisoni clone” planted in 1997. 100% de-stemmed, fermented in open-top tanks, and aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 57% new. · Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Hold on to your hats when you pop the cork on this one! Engaging aromas of dark red berry and cherry and spice. The dark red and purple berry fruits really grab your attention on entry, showing the extra class that is typical of this vineyard. Very seductive, with a silken mouthfeel, masterful oak management, and plenty of juicy vitality. The ridiculously long finish stands out among the 2017 Morgan Pinot Noirs sampled on this day. A joyous wine to drink the following day as well from a previously opened bottle. It is wines like this that made me fall in love with Pinot Noir in the first place. Score: 96

2017 Morgan Highland Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.13, TA 0.74, $28. Double L (50%), Tondre, Leavens, McIntyre, and Quail vineyards. Dijon 95, 96, 76, 4, 15, 17 and Musque. · ely light golden yellow color in the glass. A complex nose offers aromas of yellow apple, lemon creme, grapefruit, straw and wildflower honey. A reserved style with excellent acidic drive offering citrus fruit flavors with a tropical fruit component. An extraordinary value. Score: 93

2017 Morgan Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

14.1% alc., pH 3.15, TA 0.79, 1,489 cases, $44. Clones 4, 15, 17, 76 and 95. Fermented and aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 24% new and a combination of once and twice-used barrels. 70% MLF and lees stirring. · Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass. This wine has more of the steely minerality that many Chardonnay aficionados relish. Aromas of petrichor, cold steel, lemon curd and brioche. Very classy in the mouth, with lemon-driven flavor and a hint of honey and blonde caramel. Soft and soothing in texture, with exceptional acidic drive, culminating in a quenching, lemony finish. This is a California Chardonnay that will please many white Burgundy geeks. Score: 95