Portland Wine Co - Love & Squalor Pinot Noir
Portland Wine Company is a winery and tasting room located in SE Portland, Oregon where Love & Squalor
wines are produced. Love & Squalor was founded by winemaker Matt Berson in 2006 and focuses on Pinot
Noirs from fruit sourced from various Northern Willamette Valley vineyards. Special Pinot Noir sources include
Sunny Mountain Vineyard, Sunnyside Vineyard and Temperance Hill Vineyard. Riesling is also of serious
interest to Matt and a winery favorite.
The name, Love & Squalor, is from J.D. Salinger’s book Nine Stories where the lead entry is “For Esme, with
Love and Squalor.” The name invokes smiles and the winery has a welcome unpretentious air.
Matt toiled in the wine industry for years at Patricia Green Cellars, Brooks Wines, and J. Christopher in
Oregon, Escarpment in New Zealand and Ernst Loosen in Germany. I think he made it to Argentina too.
Pinot Noir is processed in small lots. Most often the grapes are de-stemmed although there is usually some
whole cluster fermentation. No commercial yeast is employed. Gentle handling is the key. Oak is kept to a
minimum.
Tasting details and wine purchases are available at www.portlandwinecompany.com. Matt is a fun guy to
hang with.
2018 Love & Squalor Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., $28. Grapes mostly de-stemmed. Native
fermentation. Aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass.
Aromas of black currant, forest floor and slight volatile acidity. Mid-weight plus in style with flavors of black
raspberry, blackberry, spice and citrus peel. The fruit is well-ripened and toothsome. Grippy tannins infuse the
finish.
Score: 87
2016 Love & Squalor Sunny Mountain Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 25 cases, $54.
Released fall 2021. 100% whole cluster. Clones are an interesting co-fermented mix of Pommard, faux 828,
and 23 (Mariafeld).
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. The aromas arrive over time in the glass and include
barrel cave, deep red cranberry, spice and roasted nuts. Pleasurable flavors of red berry and cherry with a
whisper of oak that tail off at the finish. Fine-grain tannins and a refined mouthfeel make for easy drinking.
Score: 92
2016 Love & Squalor Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 50 cases, $54.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. Fragrant aromas of cherry, bramble, rose and oak spice. Plush on the
palate, with resonant dark cherry and raspberry fruit flavors infused with racy energy and backed by tame
tannins. Excellent harmony with a lengthy finish. Atypical for this vineyard in that the fruits trend more to redder
types, there is less underlying earthiness and the overall impression is finesse rather than power.
Score: 92
2017 Love & Squalor Temperance Hill Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., 50 cases, $54. Released fall
2021. Clones are 113, 114, 667 and Pommard.
·
Moderately light
garnet color in the glass. Sensational nose that elevates over
time in the glass to offer soaring aromas of dark cherry,
potpourri, tilled earth and spice. Light to mid-weight in style and
rather elegant in character, with a delicious array of dark red
and purple fruits infused with bright acidity and framed by
delicate tannins. The finish is long like a three hour movie you
don’t want to end.. This is an unusual interpretation of this
vineyard that known is more for its rich, dark fruit, intense color
and bold tannins.
Score: 94
2016 Love & Squalor Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 75 cases, $48. Released fall 2021.
A selection of the winemaker’s three favorite barrels in the cellar. A blend of grapes from Vista Hills Vineyard in
the Dundee Hills and Temperance Hill Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills (50% each).
·
Moderately light garnet
color in the glass. The nose is dominated by oak-driven aromas of mocha java and root beer shadowing red
cherry scent. Light to mid-weight in concentration displaying juicy red cherry fruit with a gentle cloak of oak.
Soft tannins, a silken texture and a modest finish.
Score: 90
2017 Love & Squalor Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 50 cases, $48. Release spring
2022. A selection of the winemaker’s four favorite barrels in the cellar. Sourced from Vista Hills Vineyard (667
and 777), Temperance Hill Vineyard (667, 113, 114 and Pommard) and Sunnyside Vineyard (Gamay and
Wädenswil).
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of Bing cherry, cola and
mocha. A harmonious wine with a good acid underbelly and modest tannins. The mid-weight, brambly dark red
cherry and black raspberry fruits are satisfying.
Score: 92
