J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery: The Wines

Annual production varies because some older vines with typically lower yields are replaced periodically. There has been an attempt to improve pruning practices developed in the famous vineyards in Burgundy to ensure the restoration and preservation of the historic vines at Rochioli, allowing them to live a long life, potentially up to 50 years. Most recently, a few acres of vines have had to be removed due to red blotch infestation.

An Estate Pinot Noir has been produced every year since 1982. It is a blend of most or all of the single-block vineyards except for Three Corner. The average annual production of the Estate Pinot Noir is targeted for 4,800 to 5,500 cases, but that number has not been reached since 2020. The 2022 vintage was about 25% lighter overall. Tom expects full production to return in 2024/2025.

Tom told me the Estate Pinot Noir is put together once he creates the blends of Sweetwater, Little Hill and Big Hill. He blends various lots on the property and anything that does not quite make the cut is bulked out. Since the red blotch-infected vines have been removed, all the lots have been perfectly acceptable.

The sizable production of the Estate Pinot Noir and its wide distribution by fine wine marketer Terlato Wines International mean it is sold by many retail sources in the US such as Total Wine & More and is also offered for sale on the winery’s website and at the winery’s tasting room.

The Estate blends of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are bottled under the Rochioli name, while the single-block vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are labeled as J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery. The classy labels have remained essentially the same through the years. Beginning with the 2018 vintage, the back label of the Estate wines stated “Single Vineyard Blend” to more accurately reflect the wines as blends of several single-block vineyards. The labels for Rochioli Estate Pinot Noir and J. Rochioli West Block Pinot Noir:

There is a story behind Rochioli’s block-designated Pinot Noirs.Tom had visited Domaine Romanée-Conti (DRC) in Burgundy (Joe never went to Burgundy) in 1990 and was struck by the differences in the wines from the winery’s seven climats. Tom has remarked, “Here are these blocks of vines together in a small area on a slope that looks fairly uniform, yet the wine from each plot is unique and different.” Tom had noted differences in barrels from different blocks on the Rochioli estate despite the fact that a majority of the vine material originated from West Block cuttings, the cultivation was identical throughout the estate, and the vinification was the same. He realized that like DRC, Rochioli vineyards had distinct blocks that produced wines reflecting differences in terroir due to subtle disparities in soil and microclimate.

In 1992, the first of the block designates debuted with the West Block and Three Corner Block Pinot Noirs. East Block was released separately in 1993 1994, and then yearly from 1997 to 2008. Little Hill Block and River Block debuted in 1999, and the Sweetwater Vineyard Block was first offered in 2007. The five original single-block Pinot Noirs: East Block, West Block, Three Corner, Little Hill and River Block were first offered together in 1999.

A map of the 140 planted acres at Rochioli Vineyard detailing the blocks is available on the winery’s website.

The vinification of Rochioli Pinot Noir involves primarily whole berry fermentation with proprietary yeasts in stainless steel open-top tanks. Up to 20% whole cluster may be included depending on the vintage, vineyard block, and ripeness of the stems. This adds a spice cabinet flavor to the finished wines. Hand punch-downs of the cap are employed. The wines are sent to barrel without extended maceration. Aging extends for 15 months in about 30% new French oak for the Estate wines and 40%-50% new French oak for the single block wines. The wines are held in bottles until the early part of the subsequent year in the case of the Estate Pinot Noir wines and the later part of the subsequent year for the block-designated Pinot Noir wines.

The Rochioli Pinot Noirs are not bashful wines, instead offering a ripe, rich, succulent fruit core with cola and spice features. That said, the wines are never overblown, too big or oaky and retain an appealing freshness. Many wine writers have raved about the Pinot Noir wines, calling them, “A liquid portrait of the Russian River Valley.” Regarding age ability, the best window for the Estate Pinot Noir is 3 to 5 years and for the block-designated Pinot Noirs 6 to 10 years. That said, there are no strict guidelines. Tom simply says, “As the vines get older, and as I get older, the wines get better.”

The vineyard block-designated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines are allocated through a mailing list at www.rochioliwinery.com. There is quite a wait to receive an allocation and those wishing to receive an allotment need to purchase the Estate wines regularly or risk falling off the list. The demand for the block-designated wines far outstrip the approximate 3,000 cases a year of production. The winery could easily sell twice the amount of wine production but the emphasis is on improving quality not expanding sales. The winery is in an enviable position since the lack of need for promotion relieves the winery of those expenses and allows it to concentrate on farming and wine production.

The 2020 Rochioli Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (currently sold on the winery’s website) and Chardonnay have been released. Don’t ignore the winery’s outstanding Estate Sauvignon Blanc!

For all reviews of Rochioli Pinot Noirs, visit www.princeofpinot.com/article/2238/.

One final interesting side note. In July 2005 I hosted a vertical tasting of 1992-2002 J. Rochioli West Block Pinot Noirs. It was a spirited evening marked by celestial Pinot Noir attended by members of my wine club, Le Grand Crew. The event was attended by a number of luminaries including Art “Deep” Fries, Steve “Slide Rule Dember, Mike “Cash & Carry” Cohen, Ed “Big Boy” Buckley, John “Dookey” Maggiano, and Rene “Master Somm” Chazottes. These were vinous treasures that made a lasting impression on the attendees. All the wines had aged beautifully with no sign of oxidation. The wines offered fresh fruit aromas, an impressive mid-palate attack of luscious and deeply concentrated Pinot Noir fruit, soft textures, appealing charm, and impressive balance. Tasting notes of all block designated Rochioli Pinot Noirs through 2006 are also included at www.princeopinot.com/article/1125/.