Loring Wine Company
It is hard to believe that I first wrote about Brian Loring, the owner and winemaker at Loring Wine Company,
seventeen years ago. Looking back, Brian attributes his early interest in Pinot Noir to time working in a
Southern California wine store during college where he was able to experience fine red Burgundy. This led him
to explore domestic Pinot Noir in the 1980s, but it wasn’t until he tried the wines of Calera (see reviews of 2015
vintage in this issue) that he was completely hooked. His early job was software engineering, but his calling
became Pinot Noir.
Brian’s friendship with winemaker Norm Beko of Cottonwood Canyon Winery led him to a start in the wine
business. While participating in the 1997 crush, he made two barrels of his own Pinot Noir and the Loring Wine
Company (a homage to Josh Jensen and the Calera Wine Company) was launched.
Brian was one of the early successful boutique California Pinot Noir producers who entered the field cold so to
speak, without any formal winemaking education. Besides Norm Beko, Brian attributes much of his inspiration
and success to Adam Lee, the founder and winemaker of Siduri Winery. Brian inspired a number of others to
enter the Pinot race, including Greg Piatigorski (Alcina Cellars, Iskaranu), Jamie Kutch (Kutch Wines), and
Andrew Vingiello (A.P. Vin).
The success of Loring Wine company was predicated on Brian’s insistence in acquiring top-notch Pinot Noir
grapes from prestigious vineyards. He admitted to lacking experience as a winegrower, so he allowed vineyard
owners to farm his blocks as they farmed the ones they used for their own labels. For years, Brian has featured
photos of the vineyards designated on his labels.
Brian’s style initially was typical of many California Pinot Noirs, offering dark hues, and full-bodied, ripe, showy
and sappy fruit with a generous French oak imprint. Over the years, Brian has refined his style, as he currently told me, “The wines have become generally lighter in style. Still relatively big, but not like they used to be. As a
result, we’re using much less new oak these days (only about 15%).”
The Pinot Noir grapes are fully de-stemmed, dry ice is added for cold soak, the grapes are inoculated with
Assmanshausen yeast punched down once a day, and spend about 21 days in the fermenting bins. The wines
are racked once post malolactic fermentation and bottled unfined and unfiltered after 10 months in barrel. As
Brian says, “Your basic, low intervention stuff.”
The main change in grape sources over the past few years has been a move closer to home with no more
Sonoma fruit. The reason is a combination of Keefer Ranch’s sale, and the time it took to go up to the Russian
River Valley to sample fruit during harvest. Since the Loring Wine Company Lompoc winery is still operated by
Brian, his sister, two winery employees including assistant winemaker Rachel Silkowski (see the Say When
wines reviewed in this issue), and his 85-year-old mother, it became too challenging to leave the winery for a
few days a week to check fruit. Currently, all grapes are sourced from the Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Lucia
Highlands. This provides more focus as well.
Loring Wine Company was one of the first to use screw caps on domestic Pinot Noir.
I chose Loring Wine company for the lead article in this issue because all the 2017 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
offerings were compelling. I agree with Brian, who said, “We really like the 2017s. Super soft and sexy.”
Loring Wine Company wines are sold primarily through a mailing list The Loring Wine Company tasting room is
on Industrial Hwy in Buellton, in the same parking lot as Industrial Eats and Alma Rosa’s Tasting Room. Tasting
is available Thursday from Monday. Winery visits are by appointment only and can be arranged through the
website at www.loringwinecompany.com. All wines reviewed here were released on October 1, 2018.
2017 Cooper Jaxon Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
pH 3.61, 1,000 cases, $29, screw cap.
A new blend in honor of Cooper Jaxon Loring, the next generation of Loring. sourced from several
vineyard sites in the Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Lucia Highlands. Clones are Pisoni, 113, 115, 667,
777 and 23. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass.
Aromatically pleasing scents of black cherry, earthy flora, spice and a hint of oak. Light to mid
weight in concentration, with fresh flavors of dark red and black cherry fruit with hints of red
licorice, spice, oak and earth. Easygoing, with commendable balance and some finish.
Score: 90
2017 Loring Wine Company Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.72, 400 cases, $29, screw
cap. Sourced from Rancho La Viña, Kessler-Haak and Sierra Madre vineyards. Clones 113, 115, 667 and 777.
Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Dark garnet color in the glass. Subdued aromas of dark
fruits, tea leaves and char. Very ripe and sweet black cherry, blackberry and black raspberry fruit flavors. Mouth
filling extraction with soft tannins and good fruit intensity on the finish. The texture is plush and seductive but
the wine does not have the vibrancy of the Cooper Jaxon.
Score: 88
2017 Loring Wine Company Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.61, 400 cases, $38,
screw cap. Clones 113, 115, 667 and 777. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Likable aromas of dark cherry, ripe peach and nutty
oak. A middleweight style with a tasty core of nicely spiced black cherry fruit and an underpinning
of nutty oak. Excellent harmony and easy approachability.
Score: 91
2017 Loring Wine Company Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.65, 400
cases, $38, screw cap. Sourced from rosella’s, Sierra Mar, Boekenoogen and Ranch La Viña
vineyards. Clones 115, 667, 23 and Pisoni. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. Aromas of black fruits and pipe smoke lead to an abundance
of dark red and black fruits that caress the palate. Nicely composed with a deft touch of oak and
good harmony, finishing with impressive purpose.
Score: 91
2017 Loring Wine Company Rancho La Viña Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc.,
pH 3.68, 200 cases, $54, screw cap. Clones 115, 667 and 777. Aged 10 months in French oak
barrels, 15% new.
·
Moderately light garnet color in the glass. Seductive aromas of blueberry,
blackberry and BBQ spice rub. Long in the mouth and finish with a perfectly ripened core of black
cherry, black raspberry and blackberry fruit embellished with a dash of spice. Sleek in texture,
refined in character, with a strikingly long finish.
Score: 94
2017 Loring Wine Company Kessler-Haak Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.71, 200
cases, $54, screw cap. Clones 113, 115, 667 and 777. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Dark
garnet color in the glass. Brooding aromas of fertile earth and wine cave. A charge of boisterous black
raspberry and blackberry fruit greets the palate, fills every nook and cranny in the mouth, and exits with
aplomb. Velvety in texture with noticeable, but not intrusive tannins.
Score: 92
2017 Loring Wine Company Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH
3.59, 400 cases, $54, screw cap. Clones 115 and 777. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels,
15% new.
·
Moderate garnet color in the glass. Uplifting aromas of black cherry and spice rub lead
to a mid weight plus styled wine with a generous core of delicious black cherry and purple berry
fruit. Supple tannins provide marvelous support and the energetic acidity adds vigor. A compelling
wine with an extremely long finish.
Score: 94
2017 Loring Wine Company Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.62,
200 cases, $54, screw cap. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Moderately dark garnet color in
the glass. A cheerful wine bursting with fresh cherry and berry goodness in a mid weight style. Supportive
tannins, a seamless texture and a trail of black cherry and black raspberry on the seductive finish urges
another sip.
Score: 93
2017 Loring Wine Company Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
14.3% alc., pH 3.62, 200
cases, $54, screw cap. Clones 667 and Pisoni. Aged 10
months in French oak barrels, 15% new.
·
Moderately dark
garnet color in the glass. Grand aromas of purple grape,
boysenberry and sandalwood. My first word after taking a
sip was Wow! An ephemeral wine with flat-out delicious,
well-spiced, dark red cherry fruit that really captures the palate with
goodness. Wondrous harmony with endless aromatic pleasure on the
finish. Praise the Lord! Gary Franscioni really knows how to raise wine
grapes!
Score: 95
2017 River Quinn Santa Barbara County Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH 3.49, 300 cases, $25, screw cap. A special blend in honor of River Quinn Loring -
the next generation of Loring. Wente clone. Barrel fermented and aged 10 months in 50% French
oak (20% new) and 50% American oak (20% new).
·
Moderately light golden yellow color in the
glass. Initial aromas of lemon, buttery brioche, floral blossoms and flint are appealing. Discretely
rich flavors of lemon, pineapple, white peach are alluring. Nicely balanced in an easy-to-please
exuberant style. I would be happy to have this as a daily drinker.
Score: 90
2017 Loring Wine Company Sierra Mar Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay
14.3% alc., pH
3.42, 200 cases, $44, screw cap. Robert Young selection. Barrel fermented and aged 10 months in 50%
French oak (20% new) and 50% American oak (20% new).
·
Moderately light golden yellow color in the glass.
Reserved but appealing aromas of lemon oil, ocean air and a hint of flint. Alluring on the palate, with fresh
flavors of lemon, cream, caramel and a hint of toast. The mouthfeel is polished, the acidity is uplifting, and the
citrus-fueled finish is quenching.
Score: 93
2017 Loring Wine Company Kessler-Haak Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
14.3% alc.,
pH 3.56, 200 cases, $44, screw cap. Sweeney Canyon selection. Barrel fermented and aged 10
months in 50% French oak (20% new) and 50% American oak (20% new).
·
Aromas of lemon
meringue, pineapple and seashore reveal themselves slowly in the glass. Delightful flavors of
lemon-lime, pineapple, creme, saltine and a hint of gracious oak. Slightly viscous in the mouth,
with expanding flavors that trail off through a vivid finish. A classy, sophisticated wine that confirms
the opinion of many that the Sta. Rita Hills is the best region for Chardonnay in California.
Score: 94
|
|
|
