Bob Iantosca: Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards
Artisan wines usually imply a small operation with limited production Why then did I include the large
Gloria Ferrer Winery, with more than 330 acres of estate vineyards and a total annual production of
230,000 cases? The reason is that winemaker Bob Iantosca, who has been the chief winemaker at
Gloria Ferrer since 1987, has a small separate still Pinot Noir program within Gloria Ferrer, a winery
best known for its sparkling wines. Bob crafts about 20,000 cases of five Pinot Noirs that fill out the winery’s
lineup of six sparkling wines, one Chardonnay, and one Merlot.
Gloria Ferrer was founded in 1982 by the Ferrer family, owners of the Freixenet sparkling wine empire
based in Spain. The Freixenet Group includes cava producers
Freixenet and Segura Viudas, Gloria Ferrer, and still wine properties
in many countries including Australia. Gloria Ferrer is
named after José Ferrer’s wife, who together direct their wine
empire. Originally dedicated to crafting sparkling wine only, still
wine production began in the early 1990s. A separate red wine
production facility was built and the underground caves expanded
to provide storage for both still and sparkling wines.
Gloria Ferrer is located on Route 121 (Carneros Hwy) in Sonoma
Carneros, a site rumored to have been inspired by Gloria Ferrer
herself who picnicked on a Carneros hillside some 35 years ago.
I spent some enjoyable time with Bob Iantosca recently on a visit to Gloria Ferrer. He is a laid-back,
pony-tailed and bearded character whose relaxed persona hides his tremendous winemaking experience
knowledge and experience. With many of my winery visits, the winemaker just wants to get into
tasting, but Bob and I sat in his office for a couple of hours just chatting about Pinot Noir before we took
a stroll through the modern winery and expansive caves. We never did taste any Pinot Noir, and I
frankly preferred spending the time getting to know this skilled winemaker.
We first talked about the Gloria Ferrer estate vineyards. There are two adjacent to the winery: Circle
Bar Ranch and Home Ranch. The Pinot Noir for the Gloria Ferrer sparkling wines is grown on the flats
of the vineyards where the loamy clay soil allows the vines to grow vigorously, producing five to six
tons per acre. The Gloria Ferrer sparkling wines are all a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Up on
the slopes, the soil is poorer, more rocky and volcanic, and Pinot Noir struggles to produce two to
three tons per acre, perfect for still Pinot Noir of great character and deep color.
The 128-acre Circle Bar Ranch was planted in 1997 and 1998 and is comprised of 13 different blocks.
There are seven different soil types and 12 clonal selections giving Bob many opportunities for interesting
blending options. The Home Ranch was originally planted in 1984 and has been under continuous
redevelopment since. This 207 acre original estate vineyard is comprised of nine distinct blocks,
four different soil types, and planted to 15 different clones.
Bob will be the first to admit that management of the vineyards is crucial to Gloria Ferrer’s success.
Vineyard manager Mike Crumly has been working with Bob for over 20 years planting clones on the
estate adapted to specific sites and learning the vagaries of Carneros microclimates. As we walked
the property, Bob and I had to fight to keep our caps on. Bob said that the ever-present wind makes it
possible to grow grapes in this location, and is largely responsible for coaxing greatness from the region’s
vines. Daily fog intrusion here helps the vines to thrive as well.
As I tasted through several Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noirs at home, I was struck by their unique and uncommon
flavors. I am sure this is in large part to the unique clones used in the wines. A Pinot Noir clone
trial was begun as far back as 1988 to study the viticultural differences between 13 clones. Of the 13, a handful emerged and were propagated in larger blocks that now provide the fruit for the wines. The
Pinot Noir clones that have shown the greatest promise in the Gloria Ferrer estate vineyards are: Colmar
538 (an Alsatian clone), Martini (UCD 13), Wente, Wädenswil (UCD 2A), Pommard 4, and Dijon
115. Even a little Trefethen Selection shows up in some wines. The resultant wines have great interest
since they are not powered solely by Dijon clones as so many California Pinot Noirs are today.
Bob uses about 25% to 50% new French oak and ages the Pinot Noirs 9 months in barrel. He feels 11
months in barrel adds too much oak intrusion into the flavors. The grapes are completely de-stemmed.
Press and free run wine are kept separate. Some wines are filtered. The alcohol levels are kept quite
sensible and all of the wines are medium-weighted with appealing elegance.
2005 Gloria Ferrer Gravel Knob Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 210 cases.
·
Dreamy
perfume of crushed black cherries, flowers, oak and hay. Substantial raspberry attack on the palate.
Softly textured throughout with powdery tannins and a clean and tangy finish. A pleasure to drink and
definitely preferable to the 2004 bottling from this vineyard.
2005 Gloria Ferrer José S. Ferrer Selection Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 1,067 cases.
·
Deep, dark
stone fruits, cranberry and a touch of herbs on the nose. Plenty of sweet dark fruit extract with retains an
appealing suppleness, Primarily fruit-driven with some earth and cedar notes. Beautifully balanced with
fine-grained tannins and brisk acidity on the refreshingly clean finish.
2005 Gloria Ferrer Rust Rock Terrace Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 372 cases.
·
Very
complex aromatic profile consisting of bright black cherry, marzipan, baked cookies, smoke and violets.
Earth-dusted black cherry and raspberry fruit which is a touch brambly and tar-infused. Appealing
fullness and richness yet elegant in the mouth. Slightly tart on the finish. This one is quite exotic and fun
to contemplate.
2005 Gloria Ferrer Estate Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 16,962 cases, 993 cases 375ml, $28.
Barrel aged for nine months in 25% new oak. Made exclusively from free-run wine.
·
Lovely red cherry,
wild herbs, earth and pine on the nose. Light but satisfying raspberry and cherry flavors with hints of tar,
forest floor, herbs and char. Velvety texture, gentle tannins, clean and crisp on the finish. A nice daily
drinker.
2004 Gloria Ferrer José S. Ferrer Selection Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 1,067 cases, $36. A
reserve bottling representing a tribute to the Gloria Ferrer founder, José S. Ferrer. Bob hand-selects
the 43 best barrels from the estate Carneros vineyards.
·
Demure scents of black cherry, forest floor and
dark chocolate. Beautiful black cherry core with a savory herbal sidecar. Rich but not cloying with
polished tannins and a lingering finish. Similar to the Rust Rock Terrace Vineyard wine but with less
elegance and more backbone. Excellent.
2004 Gloria Ferrer Gravel Knob Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 347 cases, $40. Sourced from a rocky part of Home Ranch
with well-drained soils. Comar 538 and clone 32.
·
Requires some time
in the glass to open revealing wild berry, black cherry, oak and hay
scents. Dusty dark fruits, earth, tobacco and herbs lend interest. Very
soft in the mouth. A bit sour on the finish. I could not warm up to this one.
2003 Gloria Ferrer Rust Rock Terrace Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., 375 cases, $40.
Rust Rock Terrace consists of five blocks situated on the uppermost hillside of Circle Bar Ranch
Vineyard. Clones are 115, Wente, Colmar 538, and Wädenswil.
·
This bottle seems slightly oxidized.
The aromas are evolved to a secondary bouquet of cigar box and prune which carries over into the
flavors. Soft in the mouth with a mildly dry finish. For lovers of older Pinot Noirs.
Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noirs (2004 vineyard-designates and 2005 estate) are sold at the winery and are
available on the website at www.gloriaferrer.com. These are sensibly priced considering the quality.
The charming mission styled visitor center at 23555 Carneros Hwy 121 in Sonoma is open daily for
tasting from 10-5. Guided tours are offered daily as well. There is a small charge for tasting and tours.
Private tours are available by arrangement. The facility is available for private events and weddings
as well. Be sure and wear a cap, it is almost certainly to be breezy. 707-996-7256.
