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More Sips of California Pinot Noir

2008 Alta Maria Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

13.9% alc., $23. Moderate color. · Lovely scent of black cherries, baking and peppery spices, and subtle oak toast. Light and easy in the mouth with tasty black cherry and darker berry flavors caressed by dry fine grain tannins. Some persistence on the fruity finish which displays a grassy, vegetal note. Good.

2009 Byron Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

14.9% alc., $25. A popular wine with 12,835 cases of the 2008 vintage sold out. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak barrels. Sourced from the estate Nielson Vineyard planted in 1964. · Deeply colored. Nicely scented with aromas of black raspberry tart, black cherries, smoky oak and rose petals. Sweet and rich with a powerful core of dark red stone fruits and berries and underpinnings of earth, anise and grilled meat. The tannins are supple and the wine’s richness and velvety mouthfeel courtesy of the alcohol will find fans. A grocery store staple that is in wide distribution. Good.

2008 Dehlinger Goldridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.8% alc., $45. Sourced from sections of the estate vineyard where the vines are planted on deeper soils causing the vines to be more vigorous. The resulting wines take on a red fruit character and an approachable structure. 100% de-stemmed, punched down by hand, aged in the winery’s underground cellar. · Alluring scent of Bing cherries and baking spices that holds up nicely over time in the glass. Discreetly concentrated array of delicious red cherries, strawberries and red currants on the palate, fanning out in waves to reach a pleasing finish that makes you want to take another sip. Beautifully composed and thoroughly harmonious, this crowd pleaser is highly approachable now but will perform well for ten years. This is a wine to buy by the case, but you must be on the mailing list. Eva Dehlinger, who has taken over the winemaking chores from Tom Dehlinger since 2007, is continuing the excellence of this cherished and iconic producer.

1997 Dehlinger Goldridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.2% alc., $39. Note the wrinkles in the hand-applied label. · Reddish-brown in color. Old wine aromas of old book, roasted plum, sawdust and worn leather. Impressive fruit concentration for a 13-year-old wine and drinking beautifully. The tannins have completely faded away and the juicy and silky dark fruits complimented by hints of citrus, spice and seasoned oak make for a delicious treat. This wine will appeal to lovers of old Pinot Noir.

2008 Derby Wine Estates Derbyshire Vineyard San Simeon San Luis Obispo County Pinot Noir

14.1% alc., pH 3.50, 246 cases, $36. The vineyard, planted in 1998, borders the Hearst Ranch and is located one mile inland from the Pacific Ocean. Clones 115, 667 and 777. Aged 20 months in 44% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. Powerful and penetrating aromas of ripe, fresh black raspberries and black cherries. Delicious essence of sweet Pinot fruits with the slightest hint of pepper and citrus. Very silky and harmonious with bright acidity that will serve it well at the dinner table. Still singing beautifully the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Impressive effort from a unique coastal California site.

2007 Derby Wine Estates Derbyshire Vineyard San Simeon San Luis Obispo County Reserve Pinot Noir

15.3% alc., pH 3.65, 249 cases, $42. Clones 115, 667, 777. Aged 34 months in 80% new and 20% neutral French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. · Deeply colored. The fruit-filled nose offers aromas of plums, black currants, and blackberry jam with toasty and smoky oak in the background. A blocky wine with plenty of sweet dark fruit but too much oak-derived notes of mocha, brown sugar, and toasted brioche. As much as I liked the 2008 regular bottling from this producer, this full-throttle wine displays many traits that I disdain in Pinot Noir: over ripeness, high alcohol, generous extraction, and too much oak. Decent.

2008 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Stiling Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., $40. Label art is by Kerry Mansfield, photographer. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. Lovely hi-tone Bing cherries spiced with cardamom and clove are featured in this juicy and well-endowed wine. Hints of oak toast, cherry cola and red hard candy add accents. Very typical Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Nicely proportioned tannins, but could use a touch more acidity. Very good.

1997 Kalin Cellars Cuvee DD Sonoma County Pinot Noir

13.8% alc., $35. · Amazing reddish-purple color with a hint of brickish change at the rim. Terrific and impressively nuanced nose offering scents of black cherries, plums, leather, old wood, old book, vitamins and sweet smoke. Rich and full-bodied flavors of sweet black cherries and blackberries with hints of oak, bacon, cola and citrus. Amazingly fresh and vibrant fruit set off by balancing tannins and acidity. The fruit really grabs hold and lingers on the finish. Fades some over time in the glass so drink up when you pop the cork. I have to take my cap off to this incredible 13-year-old California Pinot Noir.

2008 Littorai Summa Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $80. · Moderate reddish-purple colorin the glass. Aromas of ripe strawberries and melons. Charming black raspberry and black cherry fruit with a silky smooth mouth feel. Notes of cola, grilled fruit, hard red candy and tar in the background. A lovely kiss of cherry on the finish. You have to love the soft texture, elegance and balance of the wine and it has charm with a capital C, but from a flavor perspective, it is not my favorite Littorai Summa bottling. Very good.

2007 Lula Cellars Mendocino Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., 315 cases, $39. Lula is winemaker Jeff Hansen’s maternal grandmother’s name. Hansen was previously the winemaker and owner of Amici Cellars in Napa. The inaugural release from a 5-acre vineyard planted in 1998 in the mountain town of Comptche, 10 miles east of village of Mendocino. 65% pommard, 30% Dijon 115 and 5% Dijon 777. 4-day cold soak. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. Great label. · Moderately deep purplish-red color in the glass. Brooding aromas of plum sauce, dark berry melange, and leaf. Charming fruit core replete with vivid flavors of black plums, black raspberries and blackberries persisting on the intensely aromatic finish. Perfectly integrated oak and well proportioned ripe tannins. This wine has real mountain character, tasting like other intriguing Pinots I have had from Comptche, a little-known, but superb growing area for Pinot Noir.

2008 MacMurray Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

13.5% alc., $18. · Initially there are attractive scents of spiced cherries and strawberries, but smoke emerges over time as the wine sits in the glass. Moderately rich core of fruit heavily tainted by smoke and tar flavors. Typical of many 2008 smoke affected Pinot Noirs from the Sonoma Coast. Unsatisfactory.

2008 Montage Vineyards Flocchini Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.82, <180 cases, $24.95. Pommard clone, Swan selection, La Tache suitcase selection. Vineyard is located in the Petaluma Gap area. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation, hand punch downs, aged on the lees for 18 months in 30% new French oak barrels. · Initially the aromas of intense strawberry, black cherry and roasted plum are striking but fade some over time in the glass. Very ripe black cherry and raspberry fruit flavors that are fat and opulent with underpinnings of wood spice, root beer and brown spice. Very plush and velvety on the palate. Plenty of Pinot for the price. Good.

Note: Montage is a promising newer producer based in Oxnard, California and owned by John Gooden. Both the Etzel Vineyard and Flocchini Vineyard bottlings are good values and sold through the winery’s on-line store at and various retail locations. Wine club members enjoy a 20% discount.

2008 Pali Wine Co. Summit Pinot Noir

14.6% alc., $29, screw cap. 45% Santa Barbara County (Turner Vineyard) and 55% Monterey County (Boer Vineyard). Small lot fermentation, aged 18 months. Intended for consumption upon release. · Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. Lovely and complex perfume featuring aromas of slightly confected black cherries, berries, cola, spice, pepper, and vanillin that persist over time in the glass. Darker stone and berry fruits are nicely spiced and offer a pleasing richness of flavor. A really tasty fruit-driven and user friendly Pinot that aims to please. Very good.

2005 Porter Creek Hillside Vineyard Old Vine Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

13.0% alc., $59. · Slight brickish color to the rim. Aromas of red fruits, sawn wood, matchstick and wintergreen. Moderately light array of redder fruits with a hint of oak-derived root beer, a noticeable tannic backbone, and vibrant acidity lifting the finish. Showing charming restraint, very tasty and holding up beautifully. Still good the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Very good.

Note: The following seven wines were taken from my cellar. I had not visited the wines in a few years. Stylistically, the Radio-Coteau wines are deeply colored, rich, and fruit-driven with plenty of tannic backbone, in some cases generous oak, and savory aromatics. The wines need hearty food. Although this producer has a devoted following, the style is currently not my cup of tea.

2005 Radio-Coteau La Neblina Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 1,740 cases. La Neblina is Spanish for fog. Sourced from a few select vineyards. Unfined and unfiltered. · Savory aromatics featuring underbrush, green tobacco, leather hide and dried cherries. Stacked and packed with dense dark berry and cherry flavor with a bit of tobacco leaf and oak in the background, linger on the big fruit-filled finish. Decent.

2006 Radio-Coteau La Neblina Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 1,592 cases. Unfined and unfiltered. · The appealing perfume of dark red cherries, currants and raspberries is accented with red candies and vanillin. Luscious core of black cherry fruit with a twist of citrus on the lip-smacking finish. The fruit has impressive zip and zing but is somewhat overwhelmed by the tannins. That said, hard to say no to. Very good.

2006 Radio-Coteau Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 380 cases. Unfined and unfiltered. · The nose offers aromas of mint, oak and tar. Big-boned and muscular, flush with rich dark berry fruit. Rather linear with generously oaked fruit and not much else. Decent.

2007 Radio-Coteau La Neblina Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 1,688 cases. Unfined and unfiltered. · Mysterious, brooding mix of plums, dark cherries and berries with a hint of spice. Moderately intense with well-endowed tannins and a lengthy fruit-driven finish. Good.

2007 Radio-Coteau Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

14.7% alc., 536 cases. Unfined and unfiltered. · More savory than fruity on the nose with plenty of minty, herbal oak. Richly fruited with flavors of blackberries and plum sauce wrapped in fine-grain tannins. A rugged, beefy wine. Decent.

2007 Radio-Coteau Terra Neuma Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 318 cases. Unfined and unfiltered. Sixth generation family owned ranch on a bluff above Bodega a few miles from the Pacific Ocean. · Shy aromas of cherry and berry fruit with oak and bay leaf in the background, echoed in the flavors. Simple and fruity with notable persistence of fruit on the generous finish. Could be from anywhere. Good.

2007 Radio-Coteau Alberigi Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

14.4% alc., 296 cases. Unfined unfiltered. · Pleasant scent of cherry pie and balsam. Bright red spicy fruit with supple tannins and a refreshing grip of acidity on the hi-tone finish. Quintessential Russian River Valley Pinot. Good (+).

2008 Ventana Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir

14.3% alc., $16.50. · Moderate reddish-purple color in the glass. A fruitista perfume of cherries, raspberries and strawberries. Very tasty, slightly confected flavors of strawberries and red raspberries with a hint of sandalwood. Soft and smooth with minimal tannins. An easy, everyday back porch drinker. Good.

2008 Verve Laetitia Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.65, 294 cases, $33. Clones 3A, 667 and Martini. Fermented in one Rousseau 2-ton French oak open-top fermenter. 3- day cold soak, with an extended post-fermentation maceration of 30 days. · The fruit in this wine veers to the ripe side but is hard to resist. Moderately intense aromas of black cherries and cassis with a subtle hint of toasty oak. Discreetly concentrated array of dark red berries and cherries with a little cherry cola, mocha and sweet oak highlights. A very elegant wine with a seductive texture. Very good.

2007 Wild Horse Winery & Vineyards Unbridled Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir

14.5% alc., pH 3.56, >3,000 cases, $24. The unbridled bottling is sold primarily at the winery. A blend of Garey, Solomon Hills and Ranch Los Hermanas vineyards in the southern part of Santa Barbara County. 100% de-stemmed, small lot fermentations, 10 day post-fermentation maceration, aged 14 months in French oak barrels. · Moderately deep reddish-purple color in the glass. A savory nose featuring aromas of mushrooms, forest floor, pine pitch and oak. Dark fruits flood the mouth upon entry persisting through a juicy, lingering finish. Still young with substantial tannins which need time to integrate. A subtle earthiness, spice and oak flavor add interest to the rich fruit. Much better the next day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle. Very good.

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