Part IV: Tasting Pinot Noir from the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA
Seven representative wines from the 2010 and 2011 vintages were offered for tasting at the “Diamonds in the
Sky: Taste the Terroir of the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA.” All the wines were stellar so there is no need to make
qualitative judgments.
David Hirsch talked about the two vintages offered for tasting in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. 2010 was very
challenging and he likened it to an unruly adolescent who was hard to manage. The winter was rainy and total
rainfall was over 100 inches, but that was not particularly unusual as heavy rainfall is customary for the area.
What distinguished 2010 was the long periods of cool weather during the spring and summer, with overcast
skies, fog and biting winds. The result was an uneven crop set and extensive millerandage making farming for
balance daunting. Two inches of rain preceded harvest and after the first few days of harvest, temperatures
shot up into the 90 degree range causing the fruit to become quickly ripe all at once. The 2011 vintage in
contrast was a “rocking chair vintage” in that the summer temperatures were very consistent, with only one day
reaching 90 degrees. It was a vintage growers could sit back in a chair on their deck, look out over the
vineyard, and let nature take its course.
All wines underwent native primary fermentation and malolactic fermentation, except the Martinelli bottling
which was vinified with inoculated malolactic fermentation (information on Wild Hog bottling not available).
North
2011 Red Car Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.79, TA 0.522. 900-1000 feet elevation, southeast
aspect, 3-10% slope, Calera, 828 and 777 clones on 420A rootstock, Ohlson Ranch sandstone soils. Average
Brix 22.7º, 10% whole cluster, aged 14 months in 29% new French oak.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color
in the glass. Very shy nose but very appealing core of vivid dark fruits, a silky texture, admirable balance, and
very good finishing fruit intensity. Should be marvelous in another year.
Central
2011 Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
12.8% alc., pH 3.60. 1150-1400 feet elevation,
northeast aspect, 5-37% slope, Swan, Pommard, 114,115 and 2A clones, 3309 rootstock, tight 3.33 x 3.33
spacing, Hugo Atwell Complex soils. Average Brix 21.7º, 25% whole cluster, aged 15 months in 25% new
French oak.
·
Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with dark red fruits and spice.
Very flavorful and savory with good acidity appealing texture and impeccable balance. An exceptional wine
that is still young.
2010 Hirsch Vineyards “San Andreas Fault” Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., pH 3.57, TA 0.57. 1300 feet
elevation on average, various aspects, 0-45% slope, Pommard, Mt Eden, Swan 114 and 777 clones, various
rootstocks, various soils. Average Brix 22.9º, 100% de-stemmed, aged 18 months in 35% new French oak.
·
Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. The nose is closed for business. Delicate flavors of cherries
and cranberries with briar-themed oak in the background. Noticeable tannins with a smooth mouth feel and
short finish.
2010 Martinelli Three Sisters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.59. 1100 feet elevation on
average, south and east aspect, 0-35% slope, clones Pommard, 115 and 777 on 101-14 and 3309 rootstocks,
Josephine and Goldridge soils. Average Brix 23.8º, 100% whole cluster, aged 10 months in 57% new French
oak.
·
Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Effusive aromas of black cherries and black
raspberries with generous notes of toasty oak. Oak-dominated core of plush, sappy dark red and black fruits
with a highly seductive, velvety mouth feel. Very ripe in character. Alcohol peaks out on the finish.
South
2011 Fort Ross Vineyard “Sea Slopes” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.59. 1250 to 1750 feet
elevation, southwest aspect, 5-30% slope, Calera, Pommard, Swan, 115 and 777 clones on 101.14, 3309,
110R and 420A rootstocks, various clay and sandy clay loam soils. Average Brix 22º, 5% whole cluster, aged
10 months in 20% new French oak.
·
Moderately light reddish-purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of red
fruits. Crisp and lean, featuring flavors of red cherries, pomegranate and cranberries with a touch of spice.
Soft tannins make for easy drinking. Could pick up intensity over time in bottle.
2011 Failla Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
13.45% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.55. Southeast aspect, clones 777, Swan
and Calera, 101.14 rootstock, Franciscan Complex soil. Average Brix 23.5º, 20% whole cluster, aged 12
months in 30% new French oak.
·
Medium reddish-purple color in the glass. Deep, dark fruit is the theme on the
nose and palate. Juicy, with good acidity, balanced tannins and a generous finish. Picks up a spicy, savory
bent over time.
2010 Wild Hog Vineyard Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., no other information available.
·
Dark reddish-purple color in the
glass. Aromas of dark stone fruits and nuts. Juicy and crisp on the palate, with a middleweight core of oakkissed
black fruits, grainy tannins, and a brooding finish. Still a bit tight and disorganized.
There were 36 participating wineries pouring at the WOW Grand Tasting. A number of the wines being offered
I had already reviewed so they were not re-tasted. I did not taste every wine as I was having too much fun
talking Pinot, chatting with old acquaintances and making new friends, but I have listed below the wines that
really caught my attention when I did some serious tasting. None of these wines are inexpensive because of
the high farming costs, but they are at the top echelon of California Pinot Noir being produced today.
The venue at The Barlow in Sebastopol was perfect for the WOW event. The Grand Tasting was held outdoors
inside a tent on grass. Attendance was significant but the winery tables were easily accessible to the eager
pinotphiles. There was a good buzz of excitement and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. The highlight of my day
came when I met Tom Dehlinger for the first time!
Outstanding
2011 Benziger Family Winery de Coelo Quintus Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 13.0% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.63,
$75. 25-acre Biodynamic® estate vineyard. Quintus and Terra Neuma are two distinctive blocks.
2011 Gros Ventre Cellars “First Born” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2011 LaRue Wines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 150 cases, $68. 17 months in 33% new French oak.
19
2011 Littorai The Pivot Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Ted Lemon’s estate vineyard adjacent the winery.
2011 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2010 Pahlmeyer Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Wayfarer and Hallberg vineyards. Winemaker Erin Green’s last
vintage at Pahlmeyer. Newest winemaker for Sonoma Coast wine is Bibiana González Rave.
2011 Soliste Nouveau Monde Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 79 cases, $75. Pommard clone. The Soliste team
below (co-owners Claude Koeberle left and Don Plumley right, and winemaker Ryan Zepaltas center)
Very Good
2010 32 Winds Wine Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Winemaker Ehren Jordan.
2012 Benovia Tilton Hill Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Barrel sample, Calera and 943 clones.
2011 Benziger Family Winery de Coelo Terra Neuva Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2011 Failla Occidental Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2011 Failla Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2011 Gros Ventre Cellars Campbell Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2010 LaRue Wines Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2011 LIOCO Wine Co. Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2012 MacPhail Family Wines Markydian Vineyard Estate Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Barrel sample.
2010 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Bodega Ridge Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
2011 Zepaltas Devoto Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Magnum
Other winery participants at WOW worth your consideration: Baker Lane Vineyards, Banshee Wines, Ceritas
Wine, Cobb Wines, Emeritus Vineyard, Freeman Vineyard & Winery, Halleck Vineyard, Hartford Family Winery,
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Lattanzio Wines, Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery, Patz & Hall Wine Co., Paul
Hobbs Winery, Peay Vineyards, Ramey Wine Cellars, Red Car Wine Company, Small Vines Wines, Siduri, and
Sojourn Cellars.
Can I say anything definitive about a commonality of style and character of the wines of West Sonoma Coast or
more specifically, the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA? In a word, no, although some general comments can be made
beyond the fact that the wines from thus region are consistently superb from all producers when vintage
conditions cooperate. Moderator Jon Booné spoke about “brooding minerality” as a trait the wines share, but I
have no idea what that means.
The cool climate in the West Sonoma Coast leads to small berry size with higher juice-to-skin ratios which
produces concentrated fruit flavors. Because of the low temperatures, grapes ripen slowly and develop mature
phenolics often before acquiring sugar ripeness so the grapes may be picked at relatively low Brix. As a result,
acidity is usually high and alcohol levels on the low to moderate side. The comments in the past of Ted Lemon,
“Muscle and sinew, grit, structure, more backbone and tannin than Russian River Valley Pinot Noir; spicy and
peppery in leaner years with sage and savory as the prominent spices, and dark fruits in riper vintages,” and
Andy Peay, “Higher acidity, sturdier tannins, less ‘gobs’ of fruitiness, and more tertiary flavors like earth,
minerals, tea and forest floor” provide the best descriptors, albeit broad and simplified, of Pinot Noir from the
West Sonoma Coast.
One parting comment from WOW: The 2011 vintage was highly successful for West Sonoma Coast
vintners. Serious pinotphiles should seek out these wines NOW as production is limited. In particular,
based on my tasting at the WOW Grand Tasting, buy every wine you can get your hands on sourced
from Hirsch Vineyards. (photo below)
One additional comment about the site of WOW, The Barlow complex in downtown Sebastopol. The former
Barlow Apple Factory (the Barlow family started the first commercial applesauce business in the United States
before going out of business in 2004) has been reinvented to showcase both production and retail for artisan
producers and is the first of its kind in the country. It allows an environment where a concentrated group of
artists, craftspeople, food and wine artisans can connect, socialize and market. The 220,000-square-foot
Barlow complex has parks, gardens, an event center, bocce ball courts, children’s play areas, and the
Sebastopol farmer’s market. The new project is tastefully designed with buildings constructed of corrugated
metal to duplicate in a modern fashion the look of the historic apple processing plant.
The Barlow complex includes two wineries, Kosta Browne Winery (not open to the public) and Wind Gap
Wines. There are several winery tasting rooms including LaFollette Wines, MacPhail Family Wines, and
Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery. The Woodfour Brewing Company, Warped Brewing Company and the
Spirit Works Distillery are tenants. Russian River Valley’s iconic restaurant, Zazu Kitchen + Farm has moved
into the Barlow complex from their previous roadside location in Santa Rosa. Owners Duskie Estes and John
Stewart have the title of “King and Queen of Porc.” Noted chefs Claude Koeberle and Thomas Keller of the
French Laundry have something in the works as well. Businesses will continue to open through the fall of 2013.
Preliminary approval has been obtained for a 60-room boutique hotel on the property that could be open by the
summer of 2014. This hotel and The Barlow will draw tourists to Sebastopol, which has many famous wineries
within the city limits or nearby, but has only two small hotels, and has never had the allure of Healdsburg which
is a 30 minute drive to the North. Sebastopol, however, is much more synonymous with Pinot Noir than
Healdsburg. The photos to follow give you a feeling for the ambiance of the complex.
