Recent Sips of Oregon Wines: Pinot Amore´
If you relish fruit and are susceptible to seduction, put aside your inhibitions and dive into 2012 Oregon Pinot
Noir. The wines, which combine marvelous fruit concentration with bright acidity, are so juicy some have even
called them “slutty.” Yields were down in 2012, so many of the best wines will have limited availability.
Angela Estate
Antony Beck is the proprietor of Angela Estate located in Dundee, Oregon. A resident of Lexington, Kentucky,
where he has a thoroughbred farm, Beck is an emigrant from South Africa. His father founded the Graham
Beck label in South Africa, and after his father’s passing, Antony oversees the business operations of the
200,000-case winery. A chance meeting with Ken Wright in the late 1990s at a fundraiser led to a friendship.
Wright has family in Louisville and spent two years at the University of Kentucky. Beck would eventually buy a
undeveloped 34-acre property adjacent Abbott Claim Vineyard located between Anne Amie and Soter wineries
and Wright’s crew planted Pinot Noir there in 2006 and 2007. The planting was named Angela Estate Vineyard
and Wright was retained as the winemaker for the new 4,000-case production Angela Estate label focused
entirely on single vineyard Pinot Noir.
2012 Angela Estate Abbott Claim Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., $60.
The 16-acre Abbot Claim vineyard was planted in 2001 to Pommard, 777 and 115 clones. It is part of the
original John F. Abbott Donation Land Claim. Soils are marine sedimentary.
·
Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. Aromas of cherries, spice and wood lead to a discreetly concentrated core of red cherries
and red berries with a touch of baking spices. Exquisite balance, a tad shallow on the attack but a good sweet
cherry finish.
Score: 90
Antica Terra
The winery reported ideal growing conditions in 2012 producing wines that are “powerful, energetic and
incredibly vivacious.” They are said to closely resemble the 2008 vintage wines but have a little more
complexity and verve. The two wines reviewed here were released in October 1, 2014. Also available are the
2012 Antikythera Pinot Noir ($100) and 2013 Aurata Chardonnay ($75).
2012 Antica Terra Ceras Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., 600 cases, $75.
·
Medium reddish purple
color in the glass. Aromas of dark raspberry and espresso lead to oak-kissed flavors of boysenberry and black
raspberry. Very silky with soft tannins and a juicy finish. Still young and awkward with a hint of popcorn oak
and a touch of heat on the finish, but has considerable potential.
Score: 89-90
2012 Antica Terra Botanica Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., 630
cases, $75.
·
Moderate dark reddish purple color in the glass. A noticeable
step up from the Ceras bottling. Very aromatic. When the cork was pulled,
aromas emerged like caged monkeys. Lovely scents of black cherry, spice,
brioche and vanilla. Tasty and expressive, with flavors of black cherry,
ollaliberry and plum with complimentary oak seasoning. Exquisite balance
and generosity at this young age.
Score: 92-93
Bethel Heights Vineyard
2012 Bethel Heights Iliahe Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., 125 cases, $50. This
vineyard is located in the foothills of Oregon’s coast range of mountains. The name, Illahe, is a local Chinook
word for soil or earth.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Plenty of savory blueberry and blackberry
fruit with spice, underbrush and earthy accents on the nose. This unique terroir-driven wine features layers of
flavors of boysenberry, blackberry, black currant, anise, iron and earth. The youthful tannins are well integrated
and the finish is bold and lengthy. Even better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle
with more composed and expressive fruit.
Score: 92
2012 Bethel Heights Estate Vineyard Flat Block Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc.,
250 cases, $58. From a block in the estate vineyard characterized by shallow, gravelly soil planted in 1979 on
its own roots.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. The nose is remarkably fragrant with aromas of
cherry pie, spice and rose petal. Very soft and elegant on the palate with a mid weight core of tasty cherry,
raspberry and cranberry fruits backed by a hint of oak seasoning. Juicy and crisp, with a lengthy finish. Even
better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle with more intense fruit expression.
Score: 92
2012 Bethel Heights Estate Vineyard Southeast Block Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.6% alc., 150 cases, $50. From a small
section of the estate vineyard planted in 1979.
·
Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. A complex nose offers nuances of cherry, raspberry,
potpourri, rose petal and smoky oak. Impressive mouth filling richness, yet
suave and refined with flavors of dark cherry and raspberry clothed in
youthful tannins and complimentary oak. Amazingly intense grand cru
finish that seems to build in intensity over a lengthy time. This wine has the
structure and balance to age beautifully. Very special.
Score: 93
2012 Bethel Heights Estate West Block Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.3% alc., 100
cases, $50. From a small section of the estate vineyard planted in 1977 to own rooted Wädenswil clone.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with aromas of sweet cherry, violets, and spicy
oak. Soft, elegant and seamless, with a core of cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits accented with spice.
Very juicy with supple tannins and a silky finish. Lacks a bit of intensity on the attack, but a very pleasurable
drinking wine.
Score: 90
Coeur de Terre Vineyard
These organically farmed artisanal wines are always special. The 2012 vintage at Coeur de Terre produced
very darkly colored, intensely fruity wines that are atypical for the Willamette Valley. The McMinnville AVA
tends to produce intense Pinot Noir anyway, but the intensity from the Coeur de Terre Vineyard was ramped up
in this vintage.The result was very luscious, hedonistically flavored wines that tended to obscure the terroir of
the individual blocks. The one standout and distinctive wine was from Abby’s Block. Scott Neal, proprietor and
winemaker and Lisa Neal proprietor. Tasting room at the vineyard is open Thursday through Monday from
11:00 to 5:00 or other times by appointment. Visit www.cdtvineyard.com.
2012 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.5% alc., pH 3.67, TA 0.61, 2,480
cases, $26. Released May 15, 2014. Average harvest Brix 24.3º. 50% estate vineyard fruit with the rest from
other vineyards in the McMinnville AVA and one vineyard that borders the AVA. Multiple clones including
Pommard, Wädenswil, 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 and Coury selection. Indigenous and commercial yeast
fermentation, aged 11 months sur lie in 20% new, 40% once-filled, 30% twice-filled and 10% neutral French
oak barrels.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Deep aromas of black cherry, dried herbs and oak spice.
Mid weight + flavors of dark plum and boysenberry. Highly flavorful with complimentary tannins and juicy
acidity. Easy to like.
Score: 88
2012 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Estate The Heritage Reserve McMinnville Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.575, 466 cases, $36. Harvest Brix 24.2º. Release November 2014. A
selection from all four blocks of the estte vineyard. Both younger and mature vines. Aged sur lie for 12 months
in 35% new, 30% once-filled, 25% twice-filled and 10% neutral French oak.
·
Inky dark reddish purple color in
the glass. Very ripe fruited with aromas of blackberry, black currant, raisin and vanilla. Rich and full-bodied,
with a generous palate of very ripe purple and black fruits and a touch of strawberry and spice mixed in. The charge of
tannins on the finish overwhelms the fruit now and needs time to soften.
Score: 89
2012 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Estate Renelle’s Block Reserve McMinnville Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.73, TA 0.56, 79 cases, $65. Release November 2014. Sourced from the original
estate plantings (1999) which are a mixture of 9 clones (Pommard and two Wädenswil and several Dijon
clones) and several rootstocks. This is the mother block for the rest of the estate vineyard plantings. 4-day
cold soak, indigenous and commercial yeast fermentation. Aged 13 months in 45% new, 30% once-filled, and
25% twice-filled French oak. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. Restrained
aromas of blackberry and black plum with a tug of charred oak. Very generous on the palate with a sappy,
even sweet, charge of purple and black fruits. Substantial tannins match the fruit load. Oak plays a large role
in the experience at present. Hard to find any terroir here, but the magnificent fruit is luscious. Needs time to
integrate the oak and tannins.
Score: 90-91
2012 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Estate Sarah Jane’s Block Reserve McMinnville Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.73, TA 0.54, 87 cases, $65. Release November 2014. Sarah Jane’s Block was
the second estate block planted. Traditional Willakenzie soils. Clones are Pommard, 667, 777, 113, 114, and
115. 4-day cold soak, indigenous and commercial yeast fermentation, aged 13 months in 40% new, 30% oncefilled
and 30% twice-filled French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Inky dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Aromas of blackberry jam, fennel, and conifer. A full-bodied, very savory, earthy wine featuring black
fruit and black tea flavors. Juicy and trim with the savory component adding interest. The daunting tannins
tend to swallow up the luscious fruit. More like Syrah than Pinot.
Score: 89-90
2012 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Estate Abby’s Block Reserve McMinnville Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.73,
TA 0.54, 68 cases, $65. Release November 2014. This block is mid slope
in the vineyard. Clones are a selection of vines from the estate vineyard
(Pommard, 667, 777, 113, 114 and 115) and grafted in the estate nursery. 4-
day cold soak, indigenous and commercial yeast fermentation, aged 13
months in 30% new, 35% once-filled and 35% twice-filled French oak
barrels. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Dark reddish purple color in the glass. The
nose is to die for, with bright aromas of fresh black cherries and spice. The
most elegant and refined and most appealing of the block-designated
wines. The fruit is dark red rather than black in profile and more juicy and
uplifting. The balance is spot-on, the tannins are less daunting, and the
dark red cherry finish is alluring.
Score: 92
2012 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Estate Tallulah’s Run Reserve McMinnville Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.4% alc., pH 3.76, TA 0.55, 67 cases, $65. Clones 115, 667 and 777. 4-day cold soak,
indigenous and commercial yeast fermentation, aged 13 months in 40% new, 30% once-filled and 30% twicefilled
French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Inky dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of
blackberry, black currant and ollaliberry syrup. Sappy purple fruits coat the tongue with layers of flavor. Bold
tannins match the hedonistic fruit in a balanced recipe. The huge fruit-filled finish leaves a stunning
impression. Closer to Syrah than Pinot, but a voluptuous wine that is hard to ignore. Nicely crafted in this style.
Score: 90
Cristom Vineyards
This highly lauded winery really hit the mark in 2012 with its unfiltered single vineyard Pinot Noirs.
2012 Cristom Marjorie Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $58. The only
original vineyard kept intact after the property was bought in 1992. The vineyard has phylloxera to the vines are gradually being replaced. This is first vintage that is not entirely from old vines, containing a single barrel of new vines.The “prettiest” vineyard wine in the Cristom
lineup that is usually elegant and spicy.
·
Moderate reddish purple hue in the glass. Aromas of dark cherry pie
filling, marzipan, brandied raisin and baker’s yeast. Elegant flavors of black cherry, spice and floral nuance
with a firm backing of tannin. Modest and seductive, very smooth on the palate, finishing with good
persistence. Needs at least a year or two in bottle for full enjoyment.
Score: 90-91
2012 Cristom Louise Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., $58. This
vineyard was the first established by Cristom. It is densely planted at 2300 vines per acre on the lower slopes
of the property. Typically the last single vineyard to be released. More concentrated and dark fruited than other
estate Pinot Noirs.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy nose initially, offering more
pleasure over time in the glass with aromas of cherry, rose petal, underbrush and vanilla. Gorgeous core of
well-spiced black cherry fruit clothed in muscular tannins. There is amazing length on the generous finish
which sports a refreshing spark of acidity. Still very young and tight, lacking Pinot delicacy, but suggesting a
tremendous upside potential.
Score: 92-93
2012 Cristom Jessie Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., $58. One
of the steepest vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley. This wine is typically deep, dark and displays a
tension between the fruit and structure.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Vibrant aromas of
black cherry and Marionberry elevate over time in the glass. A wine that astonishes with a charge of
cherry fruit that is pure and deeply flavored. The amazing spiced cherry essence caresses the palate
and expands in the mouth, finishing with impressive length and a pleasing snap of acidity. This wine’s
impeccable balance insures long term age ability. An exquisite wine that is fresh and vivid, and aims to
please even at this young age.
Score: 94-95
2012 Cristom Eileen Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.0% alc., $58. Typically the most precocious of
the four estate vineyard wines and often the first wine released to
the market. This vineyard extends to the crest of the property
exposing the vines to the last rays of sun and the first cooling
breezes from the Pacific Ocean. Volcanic soils.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. The seductive scents of dark
berries, black cherries, rose petal and cardamon spice really get the juices
flowing. It is challenging to adequately describe this nose since the aromas
saturate the olfactory senses with so much whole cluster goodness. “Wow”
might be the best descriptor. On entry, this wine delivers a charge of black
raspberry fruit and exotic spices that really brings the palate to alert. This is
a stunning wine with a silky texture, healthy young tannins, and a peacock finish that hangs on for at least a
minute. There is some umami at work in this wine as well. Scary to think that this wine will be even better with
more bottle age.
Score: 96-97
Evesham Wood
All Pinot Noirs are sourced from sustainably grown grapes and non-irrigated vineyards and are bottled
unfiltered.
2012 Evehsam Wood Terra Mahonia Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $27.
·
Moderately
light garnet color in the glass. Very savory aromas of dark cherry and raspberry, spice and underbrush with a
hint of floral perfume. Light to mid weight flavors of cherry and raspberry in an elegant style with balanced
tannins and good finishing fruit goodness. A bit shallow on the attack but bright and refreshing.
Score: 88
2012 Evehsam Wood Illahe Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $27.
·
Moderately
dark reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of dark berry jam and wine cave. A ripe profile of
blackberry, black currant and plum fruits backed by firm, structured tannins. Noticeable grab and
hold finishing intensity. Very true to the character of this vineyard that features darker fruits,
substantial tannins and more finishing power. Cellaring should mollify the tannins. A hint of alcohol
heat shows up on the finish.
Score: 90
2012 Evesham Wood Temperance Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $27. Produced
from organic grapes.
·
Woodsy aromas of black cherry and cranberry lead to a light to mid weight, savory wine
that is elegant and polished. Flavors of cherry and red berry predominant with a woodsy, sous-bois tone.
Rather rustic, with balanced tannins and some gratifying finish.
Score: 87
2012 Evehsam Wood Cuvée J Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.0% alc., $42. Produced from organic grapes.
·
Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. A noticeable step up in quality with an expressive
nose of dried rose petal, boysenberry, and Middle Eastern spices. The
flavors echo the nose with a remarkable complex and intriguing spice
component. A classy wine with complimentary oak seasoning, a good
tannic backbone for aging, and a lengthy finish that soars with a purple
berry scent. Has shoulders but is still refined.
Score: 93
IOTA Cellars
Johanna and Don Sandberg moved from Minnesota to Portland in 1999, after a visit to Oregon to discover the
feasibility of growing wine grapes and making wine in the Willamette Valley. By 2000, they had moved to wine
country and partnered with relatives (Sandbergs) to buy land where Pelos Sandberg Vineyard was planted. To
date, there are 11 acres of Pinot Noir planted. The vines are not irrigated and farmed using sustainable and
organic practices. The first IOTA Cellars wine was produced in 2006. Grapes have also been sold to Big Table
Farm, Rex Hill, EIEO & Company, Bergstrom Winery and Beaux Freres.
2012 IOTA Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
14.1% alc., 577 cases,
$42. Pommard, Wädenswil, 777 and 667 clones. Aged 10 months in 3-year-air-dried French oak barrels and
an additional 12 months in bottle.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Amazingly fragrant with
aromas of dark berry, cassis, plum, black cherry and espresso leaping from the glass upon opening. Mid
weight + core of well ripened dark berry fruit with some smoky oak in the background. Soft tannins and a fruitfilled
finish ramp up the pleasure. The wine has plenty of oak overlay, but an equal amount of luscious fruit.
Score: 91
Ken Wright Cellars
An Oregon stalwart, with two 2013 Pinot Noirs from very distinguished vineyards that really deliver. Other
vineyard designates for 2013: Bonnie Jean Vineyard, Bryce Vineyard, Canary Hill Vineyard, Carter Vineyard,
Freedom Hill Vineyard, Guadalupe Vineyard, McCrone Vineyard, Savoya Vineyard, Shea Vineyard, and
Tanager Vineyard.
2013 Ken Wright Abbott Claim Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., $50.
Vineyard owners Antony and Angela Beck and vineyard manager Mark Gould.
·
Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. Shy initially, but explodes with time in the glass, strutting hi-tone aromas ob cherry, baking
spice, rose petal and a hint of smoke. A cherry-driven wine with a hint of raspberry and spice, lively on the
palate and really hanging on to the finish. This wine is crisp, juicy and has enough structure to age.
Score: 92
2013 Ken Wright Meredith Mitchell Vineyard McMinnville Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., $50. This vineyard is
planted to own-rooted Pommard first established in 1988. Soil is
Yamhill - shallow silty loam over basaltic bedrock. The vineyard is
owned and managed by Susan Meredith and Franck Mitchell.
·
Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Scents of cherry,
forest floor and oak char are somewhat shy, but the fruit explodes
on the palate. Rich raspberry and cherry flavor that attacks the mid palate
with a vengeance. Accents of baking spice, earth and conifer add interest.
Uncommon fruit energy that fuels an intensely flavorful finish. Rare to find
a wine with such palate saturating fruit. The nose has not arrived, so give
this wine at least a year in bottle.
Score: 93-95
Kramer Vineyards
These are outstanding wines from a producing with a history of two generations and 30 years of Oregon
winegrowing at very modest prices considering the quality. The 18-acre estate vineyard is in the northern part
of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Soils are Willakenzie and Peavine. Average vine age is over 20 years and much of
the vines are own-rooted. Pinot Noir clones consist of Pommard, Dijon 115, 667, 777, and Wädenswil. The
bright acidity in the wines reviewed here really brings an appealing juiciness to the wines.
2012 Kramer Vineyards Estate Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH
3.50, TA 0.61, 300 cases, $24. Harvest Brix 23.5º. 75% de-stemmed. 5-day cold soak, pump over
and punch downs twice daily until dry. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak barrels. Composed
of various clones from several of the estate vineyard blocks.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in
the glass. Engaging perfume of black cherry, blackberry, spice and vanilla. A forward drinking wine
with plenty of cherry, berry and spice flavor to satisfy. Admirable intensity on the attack with some
power on the finish that ends with a rush of young tannins. This wine will benefit from more bottle age but is hard
to resist now.
Score: 90
2012 Kramer Vineyards Cardiac Hill Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.47, TA 0.64, 100 cases, $42.
Crafted from LIVE-certified grapes. Sourced from the steepest
hillside vines on the estate vineyard. Clones are Pommard and
Dijon 11. Harvest Brix 23.3º. Willakenzie soil with a high clay
content which stresses the vines and leads to small yields. 100%
de-stemmed. 5-day cold soak, pumped over and punched down
twice daily until dry, then pressed. Aged 17 months in 25% new French oak
barrels. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. I am crazy about this nose which features aromas of black cherries,
complex floral notes, complimentary spice and a hint of smoky oak. On the
palate, the mid weight flavors of black cherry, ripe strawberry, raspberry and
spice are enticing. The bright acidity gives the vibrant apple fruit flavor a lift. There are plenty of tannins to go
the distance. A delightful wine with charm and sophistication.
Score: 94
2012 Kramer Vineyards Heritage Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH 3.47, TA
0.62, 100 cases, $42. Sourced from the oldest block of Pinot Noir in the estate vineyard first planted in 1984.
100% own-rooted Pommard clone. Harvest Brix 23.2º. 75% de-stemmed, 8-day cold soak, pumped over and
punched down twice daily until dry. Aged 18 months in 25% new French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple
color in the glass. Shy aromas of dark fruits and sous-bois. Charming flavors of boysenberry, blackberry and
spice, building in intensity over time in the glass. Remarkable appeal and length, with substantial tannins. Still
opulent the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.
Score: 92
2012 Kramer Vineyards Rebecca’s Reserve Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
13.5% alc., pH
3.40, TA 0.62, 75 cases, $42. From an estate vineyard block planted in 1992 to 4’ x 4’ spacing. Pommard and
Dijon 115 clones. Harvest Brix 23.0º. 100% de-stemmed. 6-day cold soak, pumped over and punched down
twice daily until dry. Aged 18 months in 25% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered.
·
Moderately dark
reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of black cherry and underbrush lead to intense flavors of blackberry
and black plum. Reasonably good attack and finish, with enough structure to satisfy. Only hints at its ultimate
promise at this time and should elevate with more time in the bottle.
Score: 90
2013 Kramer Vineyards Reserve Dijon Clones Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Chardonnay
13.7% alc., pH 3.32, TA 0.59, 125 cases, $28. Estate grown. Harvest Brix 19.7º. Whole cluster
pressed, barrel fermented sur lie for 10 months in 60% neutral French oak barrels adn 40%
stainless steel barrels. Full malolactic fermentation with minimal lees stirring.
·
Light yellow gold
color and clear in the glass. Nicely perfumed with scents of tropical fruits, pear, floral bouquet and a
hint of Muscat. Relatively light in weight but pleasing with crisp flavors of apple, pear, nectarine and
honeydew melon. Nicely balanced with a silky mouthfeel and the slightest hint of tannin on the dry
finish.
Score: 91
2013 Kramer Vineyards “Celebrate!” Müller-Thurgau Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley sparkling wine
12.5% alc., pH 2.99, TA 0.82, RS 0.6%, 99 cases, $22. Sourced from vines planted in 1986-1988 in Peavine
and Willakenzie silty clay loam soils. Harvest Brix 19.1º. Whole cluster pressed, fermentation in stainless tank,
racked and aged on lees in stainless for 5 months. To sparkle, the wine was transferred to a high-pressure
tank, chilled, and carbon dioxide bubbled in through a diffusion stone until the ideal level of pressure was
achieved.
·
Faint golden yellow color in the glass. Aromas of lemongrass, pear, melon and wilted rose. Dry and
crisp on the palate, with flavors that echo the aromas. A refreshing drink with a good bead and a citrus-driven
aftertaste.
Score: 87
2013 Kramer Vineyards “Celebrate!” Pinot Gris Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley sparkling wine
11.0%
alc., pH 3.18, TA 0.49, RS 1.5%, 325 cases, $22. Harvest Brix 17.7º. Whole cluster pressed, racked to
stainless tank for primary fermentation. When fermentation complete, racked and aged on lees in stainless for
5 months. To sparkle, the wine was transferred to a high-pressure tank, chilled, and carbon dioxide bubbled in
through a diffusion stone, until the ideal level of pressure was achieved.
·
Steely white color in the glass. Nicely
perfumed with aromas of tropical fruits, Muscat, apricot and peach. Fruity, off dry, with a good bead, offering
flavors of banana, peach, pear and vanilla. Winemaker recommends toasting with this wine on its own, or
using it for mimosas and as a part of creative mixtures with cranberry, pomegranate or guava juices. Have
some fun with it!
Score: 88
Stoller Family Estate
2011 Stoller Family Estate Reserve Dundee Hills Oregon Pinot Noir
12.5% alc., 1,300 cases, $45. A
selection of best vineyard blocks and barrels in the cellar. Pommard, Wädenswil, Dijon 114, 115, 667 and 777
planted in Jory soil. Aged 10 months in 40% new and 60% neutral French oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple
hue in the glass. A very appealing nose offering aromas of cherry, spice, rose hips tea, dried herbs and a hint
of oak. Very tasty core of mid weight cherry, raspberry and tea berry flavor with judicious oak in the
background. Juicy and bright, with impeccable balance, finishing with a blast of iced cherry fruit that you can
almost chew on. A highly enjoyable offering from a challenging vintage.
Score: 92
WildAire Cellars
Proprietor and winemaker Matt Driscoll sources grapes from several Oregon AVAs and crafts his wines at Illahe
Vineyards. The name WildAire, is derived from the family estate in Roanoke, Virginia. The name, “WildAire,”
was carved into a fireplace mantel in the remains of an old hotel on the family estate. This is my first
experience with this producer and was impressed by the high quality of the winemaking.
2012 WildAire Timothy Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.55, 260 cases, $25,
screwcap. This wine is dedicated to Matt Driscoll’s father, who loved to hike in the Appalachian Mountains and
return to the homestead to share a glass of wine with family and friends. Sourced from Shea, Kiff, Illahe and
Zenith vineyards. 100% de-stemmed, proprietary yeast.
·
Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very
fragrant initially with aromas of raspberry, cherry, rose petal and dried herbs, losing interest over time in the
glass as the fruit aromas faded. Middleweight flavors of cherry and raspberry with a hint of spice and
noticeable oak presence. A forward drinking, back porch wine.
Score: 87
2012 WildAire Reserve Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., 250 cases, $35 (sold
out). Crafted from select barrels from several legendary Oregon vineyards (Kiff clone 777, Shea
Wädenswill clone, Zenith clone 115 and Wädenswil, and Illahe Pommard clone). 100% destemmed,
Native and proprietary yeast fermentations. 23 days on the skins. Aged 10 months in
33% new French oak barrels.
·
Medium reddish purple color in the glass. Appealing aromas of black
cherries, loganberries and loamy earth. Relatively approachable for a reserve wine, with tasteful
notes of black cherry, boysenberry, plum and spice. The tannins are balanced and the wine finishes with a
moderately intense charge of cherry fruit. The wine improves over time in the glass indicate age worthiness.
Score: 91
2012 WildAire Zenith Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
13.9% alc., pH 3.68,
TA 0.55, 72 cases, $45. Harvest Brix 24º. 66% Wädenswil, 34% Dijon clone 115. 100% de-stemmed, 7-day
cold soak, inoculated with yeast. Aged 10 months in 33% new French oak barrels.
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Moderately light reddish
purple color in the glass. Aromas of cherry, sarsaparilla, and forest floor are inviting. Juicy and easy to like mid
weight core of fresh cherry goodness with a hint of boysenberry. Nicely integrated oak, mild tannins and good
finishing power.
Score: 92
2012 WildAire Shea Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton Willamette Valley Oregon Pinot Noir
14.2% alc., pH 3.72, TA 0.55, 72 cases, $45.
Harvest Brix 24.5º. 100% Wädenswil clone from Block 25. 100%
de-stemmed, 7-day cold soak, inoculated fermentation. Aged 10
months in 33% new French Oak barrels.
·
Moderate reddish purple
hue in the glass. Very engaging aromas of dark cherry pie glaze,
spice, violets and smoky oak. Delicious core of nicely ripened black
cherry fruit with a hint of mocha and spice. The fruit really attracts attention
as it is vivid and juicy. There is a good amount of fine-grain tannins for
structural integrity and noticeably intense finishing presence. I am not
usually a fan of single clone Wädenswil Pinot Noir, but this beauty bursts my
bubble. A standout.
Score: 94
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